GMT & World-Time Watches · Page 18

Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On)

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre Calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once felt far beyond the brand’s reach. And at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, Raymond Weil unveiled perhaps its most...

Breguet continues its 250th anniversary celebrations with the stunning dual-dialled Marine Hora Mundi 5555

This multi-layered world timer is a particularly sumptuous take on a Breguet sports watch, and boasts customisable world time cities.The post Breguet continues its 250th anniversary celebrations with the stunning dual-dialled Marine Hora Mundi 5555 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dennison Doubles Down on Their Stylish Stone Dials (Real Shots)

Minimal, quartz, stone dial dress watches with “TV-cases” would have been a hard sell with watch enthusiasts just a few years ago, but you wouldn’t know it from Dennison’s rapid rise in popularity. The historic British brand, twice revived, has been one-to-watch in the last year, having launched the ALD line of watches fitting the description mentioned above just last October (2024) to great success. Perfectly timed for the seemingly capricious swings of the enthusiast zeitgeist, the combination of a 60s/70s shaped case, clean, expansive stone dials, effortless style, and approachable price point made them an easy sell for those who wanted to dabble with an aesthetic that was previously the domain of luxury jewelry watch brands. Less than a year since launch, Dennison is back and, quite literally, doubling down on their inaugural line’s success with the ALD Dual Time. An extension of the first line, as the name suggests, the Dual Times can tell the time in more than one location, but do so in a decidedly direct and retro method. They have two movements. Positioned on either side of the dial, with independent crowns on either side of the case, these twin quartz tickers (though it should be noted there are no seconds hands) allow for differences down to the minute. Convenient for the rare 15 or 30-minute timezone change, or perhaps tracking a friend who is always 10 minutes late, this layout is as easy to read as it is visually dynamic. The close proximity of the t...

Armin Strom × Revolution Dual Time GMT Resonance “Tremblage”

Introducing - The New Micromilspec Pilot Worldtimer

Norwegian watchmaking company Micromilspec has only stepped out of the limelight in the past year or two, as it was previously fully focused on military-issued watchmaking for service members and women around the world. Watches like the TMBN Telemark Bataljon, for instance, were made in close collaboration with said bataljon and made available for active […]

First Look - The New Bulgari Bronzo GMT and Bronzo Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Bulgari’s Aluminium collection erupted on the scene in 1998. Fusing design elements from earlier models like the 1975 Bvlgari Bvlgari with the twice-emblazoned brand name on the gold bezel, the slick Aluminium with its bold mix of lightweight aluminium and rubber accents was a runaway success. Making its much-awaited comeback in 2020 during Geneva Watch […]

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier

Greubel Forsey repackages its cutting edge perpetual calendar in a sleeker, more accessible format as the QP Balancier. It’s still a highly legible calendar that adjusts forward and back via the crown without need of tools or fear of damage. Despite the simpler styling, the QP Balancier retains the high-end movement decoration the brand is known for. Initial Thoughts Greubel Forsey was arguably a latecomer to the world of complications, spending its first decade on chronometry, refining the tourbillon. The brand’s first complication, the GMT presented in 2011, applied an unfamiliar approach to a familiar complication. That set the tone for the brand’s first perpetual calendar four years later – the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. At its heart was a “mechanical computer” programmed with 48-month leap year cycle that allowed the calendar to be adjusted forward and back without issue, all from the crown. The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation of 2015 While the result is not novel, – Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. have bi-directional perpetual calendar as well – the method certainly is. Greubel Forsey paired the mechanical computer with a similarly sophisticated in-line display – using four layers of stacked disks – making its perpetual as easy to read as it is to use. The new QP Balancier is a more focused watch than its predecessor, as it does away with the 24-second inclined tourbillon and equation of time. While wider, the case is also slimmer an...

Introducing: The Bulgari Bronzo GMT And Chronograph

The Italian brand breathes new life into the classic Bulgari Aluminium collection with two bronze models.

Hands-on - The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon in Teal Green (Incl. Video)

Laurent Ferrier is among the most laureled independent watchmakers in recent years, and for good reason. The brand seems to effortlessly blend shapes, colours and mechanics into fascinating yet elegantly discreet watches, even if we’re dealing with a world timer or a tourbillon watch. A prime example is the Sport Auto, one of Frank Geelen’s (our […]

Introducing: Dennison Leans Into Peak ‘70s Glam and Design With New ALD Dual Time

Two quartz movements, two pairs of handsets and crowns on stone dials propel the design-driven brand's next piece.

Dennison Splits Up Its Stone Dials To Display Its New Dual Time

Dennison doubles down with the ALD Dual Time

Dennison drops a two-for-one, dropping two movements into a single ALD case to create a very retro travel watch.The post Dennison doubles down with the ALD Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Dennison ALD Dual Time Collection

When Dennison revealed its ALD series in late 2024, we were initially skeptical. The ’70s-inspired minimalist watches with quartz movements seemed to capitalize on a burgeoning trend for similarly styled vintage pieces. Yet, in person, the moderately-sized Dennison ALD watches convinced all of us on the team. Stone or wooden dials at an attractive price […] Visit Introducing: The Dennison ALD Dual Time Collection to read the full article.

Orient Gilds the Retro World Map

Orient celebrates its 75th anniversary with a limited edition World Map, inspired by a 1969 fan favourite and priced under US$400. Distinctly retro in style, the World Map features an unusual world time arrangement using a striking map and rotating bezel for global time zones. It’s well priced and well made, and a break from the brand’s usual staples, which tend to be affordable but plain. Initial Thoughts It seems 2025 is a year of many anniversaries: Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, and of course, Orient. While never the most prominent Japanese watch manufacturer, Orient has built up a strong back catalog over 75 years, which includes the World Map. That said, I’d have preferred a reissue of the more formal looking World Trip, though I imagine the brand is saving that for the up-market Orient Star line. Beyond the watch, it’s important to remember that while Orient is a relatively small brand, it’s part of Seiko Epson, the company behind the Spring Drive UFA that made headlines this year (though a distinct entity from Seiko Watch Corporation that markets and sells Seiko and Grand Seiko watches). For the brand’s 60th anniversary, Orient equipped the Orient Star Skeleton with Japan’s first (and only) silicon escapement. With that in mind, it’s worth keeping an eye on Orient this year, as the brand has more to offer than just a pretty face. Post War Travel Ban and Boom In the aftermath of the Second World War Japan was devastated and isolated. ...

Introducing - The Armin Strom × Revolution Dual Time GMT Resonance “Tremblage”

Possibly the most practical complication for travellers, a GMT watch allows you to consult the time in two distinct time zones at a glance. Interpreted by countless brands, Armin Strom’s take on the GMT goes one step further by incorporating the phenomenon of resonance onboard its Dual Time GMT Resonance editions. Offering two independent time […]

Smitten by Art: Armin Strom × Revolution Dual Time GMT Resonance ‘Tremblage’

Watches, Stories, and Gear: The Jot N Pop, Stirling Timepiece’s Jarvis GMT, and The Return of Iconic Designs From Tom Bihn and Giant Mouse

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Stirling Timepieces. Check out the new Jarvis Diver GMT and a link to their website below. Notorious EDC and Big Idea Design Create the Jot N Pop Photo courtesy of Dave Svarte These days, collaboration is the name of the game. Whether it’s teaming up with a famous soda brand (looking at you Seiko and Jack Mason), or two EDC powerhouse brands creating something entirely different. When our team was at Blade Show this year, we got a sneak peak of the first Jot N Pop prototype and knew it was going to be something special.  According to Tom Medovich, “The Jot N’ Pop is what happens when you mash up Big Idea Design’s Pocket Pro with the Beer Bomb. A titanium pen that’s built to do whatever you throw at it, as long as whatever you throw at it is writing stuff down or opening bottles.”  Regardless of how they came up with this idea, we can’t think of a more perfect tool for staying hydrated and taking notes! Built upon the design of the Pocket Pro, the new Jot N Pop is entirely machined from Grade 5 titanium (no plastic parts!), with a pocket clip made from grade 4 Ti for spring tension. Arguably the mos...

Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT

I think we can all agree that watch enthusiasm is often intertwined with a bit of cosplaying. James Bond-esque fantasies of tackling adventures in go-anywhere-do-anything watches have a powerful way of convincing office-dwelling collectors such as myself that over-engineered specs are a necessity. While actual practical need for secret agent-level robustness may be minimal for most collectors (I haven’t engaged in hand to hand combat or an aquatic chase all week), the pervasiveness of often repetitive feeling GADA designs can make avoiding rugged tool watches feel like a chore. This is especially true in the microbrand arena where many brands have made the dive watch their bread and butter and seemingly the format for all other complications, including GMTs. While I’m not here to throw shade (OK, maybe just a little) at the ubiquitous and often unimaginative tool watches that clearly reign supreme for many brands and collectors alike, I would be lying if I said the recent prevalence of dress watches in my Instagram feed hasn’t provided some much welcome variety. But even in this evolving landscape as dressier designs are having a moment, as I scroll through my curated collection of microbrand inspired hashtags, most #dresswatches from small independent brands are notably void of complications beyond a date window. Canadian microbrand Héron (known for their modern approach to neo-vintage inspired tool watches since 2021) seems to have recognized this gap between for...

Expanding Horizons With The New Horage Lensman 2 Global

Horage is a brand that has never seemed content to sit still. Its watches often blur the line between experimental design and technical innovation, and the Lensman series has been one of the clearest examples of that. Now, the family grows with the Lensman 2 Global, a watch combining worldtimer and GMT functions. The company […] Visit Expanding Horizons With The New Horage Lensman 2 Global to read the full article.

Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

One of the most interesting developments in the world of watches recently is the use of color. We have seen a drastic shift in overall color use, particularly on dials, over the past few years. The conservative world of watches predominantly likes its dials to be black, white, or dark blue. Add any shade of […] Visit Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer to read the full article.

Breitling celebrates its groundbreaking NFL partnership with new team-inspired collections

Celebrating being the first-ever "Official Timepiece Partner" of the NFL, Breitling is back with Chronomat GMT and Endurance Pro NFL Editions.The post Breitling celebrates its groundbreaking NFL partnership with new team-inspired collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch

With the Contrail GMT, Nodus delivered one of my favorite affordable GMT watches that is currently available. The Los Angeles brand showed that an awesome travel watch does not have to cost more than €1,000. On top of that, the quality and level of finishing of the Contrail is nothing short of impressive. Stating that […] Visit The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch to read the full article.

Rolex Bracelet Types Explained

Rolex has made many lasting contributions to the world of watchmaking since its foundation in 1905, not the least of which has been an array of massively popular and widely emulated bracelet designs. Here we take a close look at every type of Rolex bracelet, what makes it special, and which Rolex watches, if any, are using them today. Rolex Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case - introduced by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and the most water-resistant watch case that had been made up to that point - and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Oyster bracelets come equipped with the accompanying Oysterlock clasp, a triple-deployant metal clasp with a safety-lock mechanism. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches, and this bracelet appears, as you’d expect on most of Rolex’s most popular “professional” models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer,...

Mido goes retro with the adventurous, vintage-inspired Ocean Star Worldtimer

Brimming with 1970s style, this retro-inspired dive watch from Mido oozes charm and offers great specs.The post Mido goes retro with the adventurous, vintage-inspired Ocean Star Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.