GMT & World-Time Watches · Page 31

Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black

1974. The year that launched Skylab 4, The Godfather Part II, and the very first Casio digital watch. Fifty years later, Casio has relaunched the Casiotron for the modern era. With updated sizing, a sleek black and gold color scheme, and a vintage Casiotron logo at 6:00, it’s a bold statement with retro styling to match. The Casio solar quartz 3542 module packs in all the features enthusiasts have come to expect from the brand, a whole suite of features including an alarm, automatic calendar, and world time zone tracker. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. 1974. The year that launched Skylab 4, The Godfather Part II, and the very first Casio digital watch. Fifty years later, Casio has relaunched the Casiotron for the modern era. With updated sizing, a sleek black and gold color scheme, and a vintage Casiotron logo at 6:00, it’s a bold statement with retro styling to match. The Casio solar quartz 3542 module packs in all the features enthusiasts have come to expect from the brand, a whole suite of features including an alarm, automatic calendar, and world time zone tracker. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black appeare...

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411

Seiko is no stranger to releasing watches that immediately capture the attention of enthusiasts. Still, sometimes, due to the frequent release schedule, a release slips through the cracks. The Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411 is one such piece. While it might not have accumulated the same level of buzz as some of Seiko’s other releases in the last year or so, this reissue of the iconic 1968 Navigator Timer is a near 1:1 homage to the past, but with enough modern upgrades to make it highly relevant today. I’ll admit that when it came out, I thought it wasn’t bad but I easily overlooked it for some reason or another. Then, I happened to be visiting a local watch boutique, and they took me to the back to show me a few fun things they had sitting in the safe. Low and behold, the SPB411. As soon as I picked it up, I knew it was special. For the price point (we’ll get to that shortly), I thought it was really well done and impressed me more than most Seiko’s I’ve come in contact with. It was also just really good-looking. I love a vintage-inspired design when it’s done really well and since this is a near one-to-one re-issue, Seiko nailed it.  The original Seiko Navigator Timer was a milestone in the brand’s history, being their first GMT with a rotating bezel. It’s a model that remains beloved for its classic sport design and useful complication. The SPB411, though a modern update, channels the same spirit of the 1968 model, with some refined tweaks that appeal ...

Explained: Dial Making at Rolex

One aspect of a watch that is often overlooked - but ironically the one that is front and centre - is the dial. While often conservative in terms of design, Rolex is perhaps at its most expressive in the details of its dials, which blend classic elements with modern touches, all accomplished by modern manufacturing techniques and finishes. Even though a dial may seem simple on its face compared to the moving parts of the movement, dials are complex. Much goes into making a high quality dial, the dial blank, applied ornaments, surface finishing, gold indices, and more recently even grand feu enamel. A diamond-set dial for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Unsurprisingly Rolex takes dial making very seriously. Reflecting its long-term vision, Rolex has invested tremendously in every aspect of manufacturing wristwatches, including producing its own dials. Dial manufacturing of the highest quality, and at scale, is a challenge few have truly mastered. Rolex accomplished that with a dedicated dial-making facility in the Chêne-Bourg district of Geneva, located about 15 minutes from Rolex headquarters, where some 500 people work exclusively on dial conception, prototyping, and production. Notably, the Chêne-Bourg facility also does gem setting as well as the production of Cerachrom components like the GMT-Master II bezel insert. In-house dial making has given Rolex control of the entire process, allowing the brand to innovate, even in rethinking the very foundation of a dial, n...

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275

Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...

Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful

The Seiko SSK GMT line has slowly taken the watch world by storm, and Seiko took the SKX-style format this year and updated it with a trio of new dial formats. Earlier this year, I wrote a story on what – at the time – was every single existing SKX-style Seiko SSK GMT on the market, but that story is officially out of date. Before I get any further into this, it makes sense to establish a few things about these watches. First, they were released in 2022, creating a new wave of GMT affordability in the watch world. Why do I keep calling them SKX-style watches? Well, because the case profile is nearly identical to that of the now-discontinued icon, the Seiko SKX. The Seiko SSK001 and 003 models (the blue- and black-dial versions) are watches that I often suggest to anyone looking for a true "everyday" attainable watch. I even chose it in a video I did with Teddy where we both were tasked with building a collection under $7,000 ( let me know if you think I won). But enough lede-burying. Let’s get to the newness. In total there were three new variations released: The SSK033 with a blue and black bezel, the SSK035 with a green dial and bezel format, and the SSK036, which brings a black/brown aesthetic to the mix with a leather strap (the other two come on Jubilee-style bracelets). So let’s start with the SSK033. As an owner of the Rolex GMT-Master II with the blue-and-black bezel, I immediately zeroed in on this one. But where this clearly differs from the Rolex in term...

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever

A record was set last night in Geneva when the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A “Children Action” sold for CHF6.7 million, equivalent to US$7.56 million. The result surpasses the US$6.5 million for the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” that was set in 2021, the very peak of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze. The fad for such sports watches has since petered out, but anything Patek Philippe that’s unique clearly remains highly desirable. The record price is arguably less about the watch being a Nautilus than it is a one-off, fully-engraved Patek Philippe. This year’s auction once again took place during the charity’s dinner event in an auction conducted by Aurel Bacs of Phillips. Both room and phone bidders competing for the Nautilus that is entirely engraved with a “Maori-inspired” theme on its case and bracelet, with only the polished centre links of the bracelet left unadorned. The Geneva watchmaker has long supported Children Action, which aids disadvantaged children around the world. The organisation was founded by Bernard Sabrier, a well-connected private banker in Geneva. The ref. 5270T-010 of 2022 Over the years, Patek Philippe has contributed one-of-a-kind watches that sell at the organisation’s annual gala dinner, raising tens of millions for the charity. Past Children Action watches have included the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium that sold for CHF2.3 million in 2018. And two years ago, the ref. 5270...

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special!

As A. Lange & Söhne celebrate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Lange 1, we thought we’d join the party, and what better way to help celebrate than to take the Lange 1 Time Zone out and about? What We Love The asymmetrical dial Ease of legibility of 2 time zones The impeccable finishing all over the watch What We Don’t The date window with no 0 in front of 1 through 9 It is probably not an everyday watch for many people Like most world time watches, it doesn’t take into account daylight savings automatically Overall Score: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 2024 has been a celebratory year for A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has celebrated two birthdays this year, the first being the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph, which was showcased at Watches & Wonders this year with the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down, but the second, and maybe the most important was the 30th Anniversary of the Lange 1, the first modern watch the brand created after being brought back to life. RELATED READING: Happy 30th Birthday to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1! So, it is safe to say that the Lange 1 is a special piece when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, and when we interviewed A. Lange & Söhne’s Asia Pacific Managing Director, Nicolas Gong, a couple of months ago, he had this to say about the Lange 1, and I think he summed it up perfectly: “It’s the first watch that we launched...

Nothing but love and Sambal: NOMOS Glashütte Zürich World Time Sambal for Revolution

Nivada Grenchen Revives The Antarctic GMT

Bring a Loupe: An Early And Tropical El Primero, George Clooney's Seamaster Aqua Terra, And A Boucheron

All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.

Talking spice with NOMOS Glashütte: Zürich World Time Sambal for Revolution

[VIDEO] Hands-On Impressions of the Tudor FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

It’s been just a few weeks since the release of the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT, and if one thing is already clear, this latest addition to the FXD lineup is a hit. I already personally know a handful of people who have picked one up, and even if I didn’t, I’ve seen enough wrist shots on Instagram to know that this is going to be an exceedingly popular watch across the board and is likely Tudor’s most successful new release of the year (no small feat considering the consistency and quality of their 2024 releases). The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is also probably the most surprising Tudor release of the year, not because we didn’t expect some version of this to hit the catalog eventually, but because of just how closely Tudor has hewn to the theoretical watch so many collectors have been clamoring for. It’s exceedingly rare for either Tudor or Rolex to give enthusiasts exactly what they’ve been asking for, but with the Pelagos FXD GMT, they’ve done just that. So with all that in mind, I went down to my local AD to spend some hands-on time with Tudor’s latest and greatest. I came away from that visit with two clear thoughts cemented in my mind. The first is that the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is, without a doubt, the objectively best GMT to come out of either Rolex or Tudor, ever. The second is that I have absolutely no interest in owning one, at least not yet. On paper, the FXD GMT is everything you could want from a Tudor GMT. Here we have an FXD (already possibly the coo...

In-Depth: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, Materials and Mechanisms

Perhaps the most recognisable travel watch in history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, just as the world was entering the Jet Age of intercontinental travel. The inaugural GMT-Master model was the ref. 6542 that sported a distinctive bezel colour-coded in red and blue to distinguish day- and night-time. The coloured bezel would go on to become a defining feature of the GMT-Master and iconic within the wider genre of travel watches. Originally made of fragile Plexiglas, the bezel evolved into a robust anodised aluminium insert in 1959, the same year the GMT-Master became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, then the world’s biggest airline. Rolex advertising from the 1950s celebrating the first non-stop transatlantic flight by Pan Am where both pilots wore the GMT-Master The GMT-Master earned iconic status with its functionality and technical excellence, but equal credit goes to the notable personalities individuals wearing a GMT-Master who witnessed, or even made, history. Astronaut Edgar Mitchell wore one on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Several United States Air Force pilots set speed records while wearing a GMT-Master, including William J. Knight in 1967. And Val Kilmer sported one while playing Iceman in Top Gun. US Air Force pilot William J. Knight set an all-time speed record of 7,272 km/h (Mach 6.7) on October 3, 1967 in an X-15 rocket plane, while wearing a GMT-Mast...

Introducing - The Millennium Watch Book Travel Watch Edition

Following the previous 4 editions – The Millennium Watch Book, Tourbillon Watches, Divers Watches and Chronographs – GMT Publishing now releases a fifth opus in their The Millenium book series. This 2024 edition is dedicated to travel watches (displaying additional time zones), a highly practical and purposeful function for globetrotters, frequent travellers and those doing […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection

Combining a dive watch with a traveller’s function has become a classic over the years, offering immense versatility.  At Bremont, this concept was personified for many years by the Supermarine S302 GMT Diver, but since the brand is currently restructuring its strategy and collection, many expected to see a new model occupying this specific niche. […]

Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT

As a fan of GMTs, I will take every opportunity to check out watches that feature my favorite complication. When the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT landed on my desk, I was intrigued. This remake of a rare 1970s watch combines a Super Compressor-styled case with a rotating internal 24-hour GMT bezel. Combined with the charming […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT to read the full article.

Hands-on - Breaking Down The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale

While I’m no expert on the subject of Mil-Spec watches, or military-related timing instruments in general, I do know instantly if I like a watch or not. And every now and then a watch comes along that wins me over with its first impression, only to be disappointed when I see it in real life […]

Timex x The James Brand Titanium Automatic GMT ‘Emerald Edition’

Recently, Timex joined forces with The James Brand to release what many consider a game-changer in the world of affordable GMTs: a titanium-cased automatic GMT that married the utility-focused aesthetic of The James Brand with Timex's watchmaking expertise.

Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT

A 36mm blast from the past.

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024

Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...

Behind The Lens: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite: Global Travel Meets Outer Space

GaryG had the opportunity to borrow a Rolex GMT-Master II BLRO Meteorite from a long-time friend to photograph and wear. This watch's main event is the dial, a thin slice of metallic meteorite whose crystalline structure reflects the slow cooling process that took place as the meteor hurtled through space. Here he tries a variety of photographic techniques to learn which works best on the dial's unique structures. Which are your favorites?

A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On

We return to the newness on episode 93 of A Week in Watches. There have been a lot of very interesting releases in the last few weeks, ranging from new versions of popular watches to new complications from unexpected sources. The episode begins by looking at the Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic, a neo-traditional take on the brand’s runaway hit. Following this, we leave Earth to discuss the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earth Phase. Yes, it’s another MoonSwatch, but this one does something no other watch has done before. Afterward, we discuss the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT. The first Pelagos GMT from the ever-popular brand, it brings the FXD back to its military roots. Finally, we talk about some new Seiko Prospex divers that, to be frank, have us altogether confused. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, where the all new the Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 is now available. Limited to 500 per color and priced at $239, these fun, colorful watches were inspired by the end of summer and a desire to keep it going. Pick one up today at Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT improves upon the 1960s original while being very faithful

Nivada Grenchen's catalogue takes heavy inspiration from its archive, but its latest release is perhaps the most faithful rendition yet.The post The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT improves upon the 1960s original while being very faithful appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.