Time+Tide
Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT
The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver gets a true GMT upgrade, courtesy of Miyota movement.The post Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver gets a true GMT upgrade, courtesy of Miyota movement.The post Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bulova, renowned for its exquisite timepieces, pays homage to its iconic 1972 Oceanographer watch, fondly known as the “Devil Diver,” by launching an exciting trio of Oceanographer GMT watches. Merging timeless designs with contemporary elements, the Oceanographer collection receives a significant upgrade with the addition of GMT functionality.
Hodinkee
The "Devil Diver" has been issued a passport.
Deployant
Citizen has released a new mechanical watch in their modestly priced range - the Series 8 with a GMT function. Here is our comprehensive review.
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s Fine Watches has just opened online, marking the start of the fall auction season. Curated by the auctioneer’s Paris office led by Benoit Colson, the sale promises a diverse selection of vintage and contemporary watches from establishment names like Rolex and Breguet, along with a handful of independent watchmakers. While the complete catalogue boasts 160 lots, we have put together a selection of interesting highlights ranging from value-buy complications like a Breguet rattrapante chronograph to the unusual first-generation Christiaan Van Der Klaauw planetarium, along with a very nice vintage Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. And for European buyers, Sotheby’s is notable for being the sole global auction house conducting watch auctions within the European Union – majority of such sales are in Geneva and London – which gives clients the chance to purchase watches without the hassle associated with import taxes. Fine Watches takes place online September 15-29. All the watches will be on show at the preview exhibition inside Sotheby’s Paris office located at 76 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Sothebys.com. Lot 363: Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 in yellow gold The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 was mostly in stainless steel with the distinctive “Pepsi” bezel. However, the present lot stands as out for being in yellow gold with a brown bezel and matching dial with nipple-shaped hour markers. Dating to 1958,...
Hodinkee
A curated selection of what the Hodinkee Shop has to offer.
Hodinkee
Plus, a modern-day sports watch from Cartier and a touch of California from Panerai.
Hodinkee
Meet the colorful trio of newly minted Oceanographers.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
When Hintaro Hattori set up shop in Tokyo’s Ginza at the age of 21, he would eventually change the watchmaking landscape forever. The business, which initially focused on importing and wholesaling Swiss pieces, would go on to manufacture Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. It would also eventually be known as Seiko. Not one to waste an anniversary, Seiko is commemorating 110 years since the Laurel with a flurry of releases up and down the lineup. From Presage to Prospex, here is an overview of the new watches. Seiko Presage Bearing the closest resemblance to the original Laurel, the SPB401 bears the trademark red twelve o’clock numeral and two subdials for the date and power reserve. Its enamel dial comes from the work of the venerable Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team. It will be limited to 1,500 pieces with a retail price of $1,250. The SPB413 features an angular case not too unlike the King Seiko line and showcases a “hemp leaf” pattern on the dial. A red mark along the rehaut at twelve is its nod to the Laurel. It’s the most modern of the new releases but perhaps is also one of the most wearable. It is limited to 2,000 pieces with a retail price of $1,050. The least limited of the new Presage releases (3,500 pieces) is the SSK015, a new variation on the existing SSK GMT watches. It pays homage to the Laurel with its four blue hands and red triangle at twelve and will set you back $625. Seiko Prospex Sure to be a fan favorite, the SPB409 Alpinist GMT...
Time+Tide
Charlie Paris shows off an evolution of the Concordia diver, powered by the Soprod C125 GMT calibreThe post Charlie Paris Concordia GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Quentin R. Bufogle loves being wrong. Especially about watches.He loves it when his snobbery, short-sightedness and completely unsupported preconceived notions are suddenly imploded by a brand or a particular piece he only thought he knew. As was the case with the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec GMT Chronograph.
Worn & Wound
In the special edition of A Week In Watches, Zach Weiss and Blake Buettner sit down together to discuss some of the most interesting new releases from Geneva Watch Days, and more. From blacked out Doxas, to kind of blue De Bethunes, and a Eucalyptus Ressence, there were plenty of new watches to appreciate, including the joint Only Watch submission from H. Moser and MB&F. You can view more of our Geneva Watch Days coverage right here, and keep an eye out for more yet to come. Geneva Watch Days didn’t give us the only new releases last week, though. One of the biggest surprises, and a welcome one at that, was the new Seiko ‘Alpinist’ GMT Prospex references, which brings their 6R54 GMT caliber into the beloved field watch collection. It makes a whole lot of sense in this platform, even if it is a ‘caller’ style GMT, so we’re thrilled to see it makes its way over. This episode of A Week In Watches is sponsored by our friends at Shinola. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufacturing, Shinola Detroit is proud to share this video that reveals the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This cinematic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Learn more about Shinola’s Timeless American ...
Time+Tide
Horage's 'all-terrain' luxury sports watch receives an ocean-inspired second instalment, ditching its GMT complication while retaining some GMT DNA.The post The Horage Supersede Date shows off the true meaning of Swiss-made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time is a true GMT sized at 39mm to suit a wide variety of wrists; and I had the pleasure of spending the last few weeks with it on my wrist.The post Longines Spirit Zulu Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader George East shares shares one of the most unique trio of watches we’ve seen yet in this series. There are classics, and there are under the radar specimens of interest. It’s focused and clearly from the mind of an enthusiast comfortable in their own skin. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Ever since I got into watch collecting, I quickly understood that it need not be the elitist or financially ruinous hobby it’s made out to be at times. It’s a broad church of tastes, styles, and budgets – all of which should be celebrated. What’s more, the feelings and memories invoked by a watch are, to me at least, equally important to its looks – I have a Tudor BlackBay GMT as a daily wearer, and every time I look at it on my wrist, I see it as a memory box, a Pepsi-bezelled, stainless steel connection to my family and my friends across the world. With that in mind, I chose the following watches as my “3-Watch Collection for $5,000” as they have a certain amount of personal significance to me. Given watch collecting – at least in my mind – is about variety, they’re also completely different in nature. That’s enough of me talking. Let’s look into things a bit deeper, shall we? Omega Seamaster 300M 41 Quartz “Goldeneye” // REF: 2541.80.00 – ~$3,000 After much deliberation, I’ve settled on this as the gr...
SJX Watches
Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...
Worn & Wound
This isn’t exactly breaking news, but Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. Over the last few years, during a period of growth that those of us who were fans of the brand before they split off from Seiko could only have dreamed of, they’ve even been accused of spinning their wheels somewhat, releasing endless variants of variants, in a sea of interchangeable colors and case shapes. I think a case can probably be made that the collection could use some refining, and that fewer special editions might do the brand some good. But at the same time, I love that they give customers options. I think about a new, first time Grand Seiko buyer walking into a boutique and being able to choose from a selection of watches that is basically unmatched, getting exactly what they want, or pretty close to it in any case. One potential middle ground between a sudden halt to novelties and placing renewed attention on core models and continuing to move down the path they’re on currently is a release like the new SBGJ273, a dressy GMT with one of the brand’s best movements, and a dial that has proven to be an elusive fan favorite. Before we get into the new watch, it’s worth examining one from a few years ago, the SBGH269. This watch, released in the fall of 2019 as a limited edition of 900, was meant to evoke the changing color of fall leaves with its red dial. Furthermore, the pattern on the dial, modeled after wood paneled floors, was completely unique to this reference. The comb...
Hodinkee
A Japan-themed special colorway for Grand Seiko's Hi-Beat travel watch.
Worn & Wound
Doomsday preppers and the most hardcore of watch collectors are in for a real treat. German watch manufacturer Laco is doubling down on the success of its Atacama.2 by introducing the Atacama Quarz UTC. It’s a more affordable and focused watch with a new trick up its sleeve: GMT functionality. Primarily known for their excellent pilot watches, Laco has collaborated closely with German soldiers, firefighters, and other action-oriented professionals to hone their “Squad and Sport” timepieces. It only takes a glance to understand. You can learn a lot about this watch in its name. It’s still an Atacama, which means it shares the same PVD-coated treatment, date complication, rubber strap, unidirectional bezel, and matte dial as the Atacama.2. But now it’s powered by quartz, “Quarz” in German, and features an independent GMT – or UTC – hand. The new watch is 46mm in diameter, but the Ronda 515 GMT quartz movement inside has enabled Laco to slim the watch down to 10.5mm with a “contact area” of just 34mm. This is also in part due to the conical shape of the case, allowing the watch to feel much smaller and comfortable on the wrist than its maximum diameter may suggest. The use of black PVD-coating and generous amounts of lume on the hands, dial, and bezel result in a watch that is supremely legible to its wearer while remaining subdued to would-be onlookers (or enemies). The crown at twelve o-clock is integrated into and protected by the articulating lugs. D...
Worn & Wound
We probably should have seen this one coming: the new watch from Kurono Tokyo, the affordable offshoot of Hajime Asaoka’s eponymous and very high end independent brand, is a GMT equipped with the new Miyota 9075 movement. This is a new complication for Kurono, and it makes sense that the brand waited to launch a GMT until an affordable, Japanese made, caliber with local jumping hours became available. The new watch, dubbed simply the Kurono GMT 1, feels very much of a piece with other recent Kurono releases, simply extending Asaoka’s Art Deco infused design codes with some new functionality. The conceit of this watch, according to Asaoka, is that a GMT is a complication highly desired by those traveling the world for business purposes, but watches that are equipped with this feature often find themselves in the sport category. While I think any serious watch lover can probably poke a few holes in that theory, it led Asaoka to create an apologetically not a traditional sports watch. Like all Kurono watches, this is an aesthetic object first and foremost, with design flourishes that exist simply to look good, rather than serve any specific functional purpose. The watch was also designed with conservative “business” fashion in mind, which from Asaoka’s perspective hasn’t changed a whole lot through the years, which lends the GMT 1 a traditional look that, while not vintage inspired, wouldn’t look out of place in the 1950s or 60s. The dial features multiple s...
Hodinkee
A travel-ready take on the popular Black Bay diver makes for a compelling companion wherever you may roam.
Time+Tide
New Tissot PRX Digital is inspired by a 1977 Tissot design Offered in both 35mm and 40mm sizes Backlit positive digital display with dual time zone, day-date, chronograph, timer, and alarm functions The Tissot PRX was a massive hit upon its introduction in 2021, and it has since expanded with various dial colours, metal finishes, … ContinuedThe post The new Tissot PRX Digital looks back to a watch from 1977 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Seiko introduced a new caliber back in March via their Prospex GMT Diver collection, adding caller GMT functionality into the brand’s well understood contemporary dive watch platform. Those watches have generated quite a bit of chatter in the watch community, with many singing their praises with respect to overall fit, finish, and wearability, and others wishing for a more functional flyer GMT complication. While the dust might still be settling, Seiko marches on, with the latest crop of watches to feature their still new 6R54 GMT movement. This time, Seiko brings the movement to the Alpinist family, which seems like a natural place for a GMT equipped watch to land. It takes what has always been cast as an explorer’s watch (with its signature compass bezel) and gives it a modern, practical, mechanical complication for a different kind of exploration. I’ve always been a pretty big fan of the Alpinist for many of the reasons Blake identifies in his Missed Review. There’s something charmingly anachronistic about wearing a watch designed with such an old fashioned aesthetic (those cathedral hands, especially) but built to modern sports watch standards. With a GMT complication added, the Alpinist retains a lot (maybe all) of that old fashioned charm, just slightly tweaked. The Explorer-style steel 24 hour bezel gives these watches a clean and sporty look, and we still get the trademark handset and those big numerals (just at the cardinal positions here, rather than ev...
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