Hodinkee
Introducing: The Maison Alcée Persée Moon Phase
The French clockmaker adds a long-requested DIY complication to their GPHG-winning clock.
Moonphase Watches · Page 3
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Felipe Pikullik Goes Fully In-House
Berlin-based Felipe Pikullik presents his second in-house caliber inside the Sternenhimmel FPA1. The independent’s attempt at a refined workhorse-like movement comes in the form of the newly-developed caliber FPA1, designed to power a range of future creations. Initial thoughts Mr Pikullik’s emergence into the crowded independent watchmaking scene was based on heavily skeletonised off-the-shelf movements. As he gained a reputation for deft finishing and began to consolidate his workshop, he slowly but surely transitioned toward in-house engineering. Starting with his own complication modules, the German watchmaker’s first truly in-house effort came with last year’s Moonphase II collection, which saw the launch of the calibre FPMP2. The openworked construction featured a moon phase and 24-hour indicator but, while undoubtedly well-crafted, it arguably lacked a cohesive design language. Its distinctive architecture also made it unsuitable as the foundation for a wider range of pieces. In contrast, the updated Sternenhimmel (German for “starry sky”) features what the independent watchmaker describes as a cornerstone movement for future models. The FPA1 is consequently far more grounded and classical in construction, yet manages to avoid the trap of looking too much like any other artisanal time-only calibre. The ornate backside of the FPA1 caliber. This specific iteration of the Sternenhimmel design is decidedly more modern and technically-oriented, with a flo...
Fratello
Hands-On: The Ice-Blue Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase
Today, we’re back with a hands-on look at the latest Brellum watch. Fans of the small but communicative brand may recognize the styling of our current subject, but there’s a difference. The new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase has an icy-blue hue, and it looks fantastic! Join us as we take a closer look at this […] Visit Hands-On: The Ice-Blue Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Finnish Indie Watchmaker Juha Eskola Presents the N2 Moonphase
It’s just days ago when we first introduced you to the work of Finnish independent watchmaker Juha Eskola, and we’re already back for more. Building upon his N2, a gorgeous dress watch in a rather lovely size, Juha has now unveiled the next step in his collection. Leaving little to the imagination as to what […]
Worn & Wound
Inspired by the Lunar Surface, Yema Introduces the Superman Titanium MoonTide
What is it about the moon? Earth’s only satellite has been an inspiration to watchmakers for as long as watchmaking has been a thing. The moonphase of course is the perhaps the most romantic of all complications (at least in a contemporary setting where the actual use case is somewhat unnecessary for almost everyone), and finds its way into a surprising number of watches aimed at the mass market. If you think about it, there are probably thousands upon thousands of ordinary people looking at little renderings of a moon whenever they check the time, perhaps unaware of the long history of the astronomical complication and what it represents. And then of course there’s the moon and space travel, which gets you into an entirely different segment of watches, led of course by the Omega Speedmaster but serving as a home to an enormous variety of watches from brands as diverse as Seiko, Sinn, and G-SHOCK, all of whom claim either officially or unofficially some connection to manned spaceflight. The moon looms large in a number of ways. So it should come as no surprise that it also serves as a purely aesthetic inspiration, which brings us to the Yema Superman Titanium MoonTide, a new limited edition from the French brand clad in our favorite lightweight metal and designed to conjure images of the lunar surface. The Superman, for anyone who might need a refresher, is Yema’s core dive watch, originally launched in the 1960s heyday of recreational diving. It features a uniqu...
Monochrome
Introducing - Farer’s new 35mm Cushion Case Models, the Furneaux and Belzoni
Across its three-handers, GMTs, and even moonphase watches, the indie British brand has built a catalogue full of lively dials while keeping its Swiss-made watches at an accessible price point. That said, it is perhaps safe to say Farer has hardly been shy about colour. Most models stick to the round case, though the brand […]
Monochrome
Introducing - A Celestial Dial for the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue”
Glashütte Original released its Serenade Luna in 2024, featuring moon phase indications. Unlike the Panomatic Luna, which is essentially a scaled-down adaptation of the men’s PanomaticLunar with its off-centred dial and Panorama date window, the Serenade Luna was conceived from the start as a women’s watch with a petite 32.5mm diameter, a sprinkling of diamonds and […]
Teddy Baldassarre
26 Marvelous Moonphase Watches
The tracking and recording of time has always been inextricably linked with the mysterious motions of the heavenly bodies, primarily that of the sun around which Earth revolves and of the moon, Earth’s own satellite, whose monthly trek around our planet has inspired astronomers, poets, navigators, and yes, watchmakers to explore and understand its unique place in our cosmos. Watchmakers over the years have expressed their fascination with Luna, both its romantic and scientific aspects, in some of their most creative and innovative timepieces. Here are 26 of our favorite and best moonphase watches available now that we think shine particularly bright. [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase"] Price: On Request, Case size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 10.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Manually Wound L121.3 The iconic Lange 1, unveiled in 1994 as the flagship of the revived A. Lange & Söhne brand, has been the wellspring of numerous creative variations and additional complications, among them this elegantly appointed model that marries an ultra-precise moon-phase display with an ingenious day-night indicator. The former’s gold moon waxes and wanes over a star-dappled blue disk and tracks the actual lunar cycle with near pinpoint accuracy, requiring adjustment just once every 122.6 years. The watch’s 38.5-mm case houses the German watchmaker’s manufacture Caliber L.121.3, whose luxurious, traditional Saxon deco...
Worn & Wound
Editorial: When Your Wrist Gets Smaller, Your Watches Change Too
A few weeks ago I decided to wear my Tudor Black Bay for the first time in several months. It’s a watch I love that I’ve written about many times on this website, but I’d been enjoying other more recently acquired pieces for some time and the Black Bay had been collecting proverbial dust in the watch box. So on a chilly winter afternoon I wound it up and set the time. But then, instead of closing the bracelet around my wrist and going about my business, I hauled out my little set of watchmaking tools to size the bracelet. Because the actual reason I hadn’t worn it in so long wasn’t entirely a result of being in the honeymoon phase with other watches, it was knowing I had a small chore in front of me if I didn’t want the watch to dangle pathetically from my wrist, and for a while it just seemed easier to ignore it. Over the last year, in an effort to become healthier and, you know, live longer, I’ve lost a significant amount of weight, and it’s had a dramatic effect on how my watches wear, and how I think about them. I’d been putting off an afternoon of resizing all of my watch bracelets in part because I was nervous that once I had my 41mm Black Bay on my now half inch smaller wrist, it would disappoint somehow. I gravitated toward smaller watches all summer and fall of last year as the shape of my body began to noticeably change, wearing my larger watches more sparingly and over shorter stretches of time. The author’s Black Bay on his 7.5 wrist, Oc...
SJX Watches
Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech
Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, combining the brand’s technically adept, manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel, laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package. The M34 F8 Skeleton also stands out for the tech inside the mechanical movement: proprietary silicon escape wheel with a novel, optimistic geometry that helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint. Initial thoughts Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector. The new skeleton has a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed. This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings. This puts Orient on the list of short brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel that includes blue-chip names like Patek Phil...
Worn & Wound
Bremont Introduces the Terra Nova Jumping Hour Stealth Black
Certain watch niches are riskier than others; for instance, seemingly every brand has tried a dive watch or chronograph because they are guaranteed crowd pleasers with straightforward functionality, whereas a world timer or moonphase complication is a little trickier to market to a general audience. In that corner of hyperniche sits the jumping hour watch, which to a non-watch nerd, is both visually and functionally baffling. But Bremont is no stranger to the jumping hour concept, having released successful models with the complication in the recent past. How have they fared with their latest iteration, the Terra Nova 38 Stealth Black? Let’s jump in and find out. While a seasoned horological expert may be familiar with a jumping hour complication, the casual shopper likely isn’t: basically, instead of displaying a sweeping hour hand, a jumping hour watch points to the current hour and “jumps” to the next hour once 60 minutes have elapsed. Conversely, it may instead display the hour in a window, with an imprinted disc moving below that ticks over to the next digit, much like a date window. The Stealth Black opts for the latter presentation, which gives it a clean, retro-futuristic design that differs from previous models in the brand’s jumping hour catalog, and their Terra Nova line more broadly. As the name suggests, the Stealth Black is characterized by its 38mm black DLC stainless steel case, finished in black diamond carbon-like coating, which gives it a sci-f...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Marathon TSAR vs Luminox Pacific Diver: Military Watch Showdown
Discover how the Marathon TSAR and Luminox Pacific Diver perform beyond the honeymoon phase. Compare wearability, durability, ownership trade-offs, and more.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked
Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Speedmaster vs El Primero: Hands-On Review of Two Iconic Chronographs
Weeks of real wrist time settled the Omega Speedmaster vs Zenith El Primero debate. Find out which chronograph proved more livable long after the honeymoon phase faded.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Would You Spend Over $3,000 on an Orient Star Moon Phase? I Would.
Orient Star introduces the M45 F8 Moon Phase, a $3,000+ mechanical dress watch aimed squarely at dedicated collectors.
Fratello
Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding
Orient Star unveils a duo of classy timepieces that reflect the graceful passage of time. Compared with recent Orient Star designs, the M45 F8 pares it back to pure functionality and traditional layouts. The Roman numerals add a sense of dignity, and the moonphase complication connects our world to the cosmos. A white-dial variant joins […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Fire Horse”
Blancpain unveiled its Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar in 2012, an extraordinarily complex watch that fuses the traditional lunisolar Chinese system, elements of the Gregorian calendar, and a moon phase. A world first, Blancpain’s masterpiece coincided with the Chinese Year of the Dragon. For 2026, Blancpain returns with a 50-piece limited edition in platinum dedicated to […]
SJX Watches
A Rising Tide Lifts TAG Heuer’s Carrera Seafarer
TAG Heuer rides the vintage reissue wave with the Carrera Seafarer, a chronograph that tracks the tides with a quirky mechanical complication originally developed for the American retailer Abercrombie & Fitch in the early 1950s. Delivered in the brand’s popular ‘Glassbox’ case, the sun-bleached aesthetic features a champagne-coloured dial and Intrepid Teal accents to capture the spirit of mid-century maritime instruments in a modern, wearable package. Initial thoughts The past year has shown that TAG Heuer is doubling down on technical credibility. The brand launched carbon hairsprings that are now ready for mass production as an alternative to silicon hairsprings, and the brand has also regained the coveted position as the official timekeeper of Formula 1. Furthering its bid to recapture lost magic, the Seafarer is a modern Carrera ‘Glassbox’ infused with the immense charm of the original Seafarer models signed by Abercrombie & Fitch. The Carrera Seafarer is powered by the modern TH20-04 movement, derived from the TH20-00, that’s been tweaked to show the times of high and low tide using a mechanism likely adapted from a moon phase indictor. While still reliant on the simplistic concept developed for the 1950s models, the complication’s gear ratios have been refined and modernised by TAG Heuer engineers. As a result, the Seafarer displays the local tide times for a given place, serving as a proper tool watch for birdwatchers, anglers and fishermen in gene...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Limited-Edition Time+Tide × Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture Onyx Moon
There’s more to the Time+Tide × Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture Onyx Moon than a stunningly powerful black dial. This is an evolved version of the Highlife luxury sports watch that debuted in 2020. The limited-edition model, available in a run of 100 pieces, features a smaller 39mm diameter compared to the usual 41mm […] Visit Hands-On With The Limited-Edition Time+Tide × Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture Onyx Moon to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Last Vingt-8 And The First Of Something New With The Voutilainen 28MPR Moonphase And KV21 Tonneau
Kari Voutilainen bids farewell to the VINGT-8 movement platform as of December 31, 2025, and introduced a new KV21 hand-wound that will be the brand's base for the future.
Teddy Baldassarre
Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2025
When the editorial team here at Teddy was tasked with picking some of our favorite complicated watches of 2025, there was an important distinction that had to be drawn. Of course, this was the fine line between our favorite watches that absolutely nail or master a specific complication rather than just the“most complicated” watches or watches with the most complications. This year we saw one of the best world timers for the money, a novel take on the moon-phase, and Audemars Piguet’s final Research & Development watch. So without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite complicated watches of 2025. [toc-section heading="Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic Power Reserve 40mm"] Sometimes we overlook the power reserve indicator as a complication in a watch - but indeed it is and Hamilton outfitted one of its most popular watches with a power reserve indicator on the dial thus setting the new Khaki Field Power Reserve to take its place among our favorite complicates watches of 2025. You will recognize this watch for bearing so many of the hallmarks of the Khaki Field Mechanical but with the added gas-tank indicator style gauge at the nine o’clock portion of the dial. It’s 40mm in diameter and a touch under 12mm in case height and boasts a new movement under the hood by way of the H23 manual winding caliber with 80 hours of power reserve and a slipping spring that allows for winding to exceed the manual maximum in a “quirk” that also serves to aid the watch...
Deployant
New: Longines Master Year of the Horse
Longines celebrates the Year of the Horse 2026 with a special edition with moonphase. A collaboration with Chinese artist Peon Xu.
Fratello
Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase
Orient Star unveils three new versions of its flagship F7 Mechanical Moon Phase. Dials in white and navy blue join the regular lineup, while the light blue dial is a limited edition of 190 pieces. Having debuted in 2017, the F7 Mechanical Moon Phase combines three striking elements. The namesake moon phase sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Longines Master Collection Moonphase 2026 Year of the Horse
The Chinese Lunar New Year, which kicks off on the 17th of February 2026 and lasts until the 5th of February 2027, welcomes the seventh animal of the zodiac, the Horse. Given the importance of the Moon in determining the cycle of the 12 zodiac animals, Longines has selected a moon phase model from its […]
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