Monochrome
Anyone familiar with H. Moser & Cie.’s Concept watches knows that ‘concept’, in the brand’s vocabulary, means extreme minimalism with dials purged of logos, indices and numerals. Perpetual calendar complications are typically burdened with sub-dials, a profusion of hands and copious information; however, Moser’s transformation of the perpetual calendar into a Concept watch yields one of the […]
Monochrome
The Saxonia Annual Calendar is a relatively young but important member of A. Lange & Söhne’s repertoire. Launched in 2010 as an “everyday” complication, the annual calendar offers a more practical, slightly less complex alternative to the brand’s high-end perpetual calendars while maintaining Lange’s classic Saxon aesthetics. Initially available in 38.5mm cases – but discontinued […]
Hodinkee
Some of Patek's best watches get a facelift. Plus, we look at the new 5204G split-second perpetual calendar.
Monochrome
Last year, Roger Dubuis released a nostalgic watch that paid homage to Mr Dubuis, the brand’s talented watchmaker and founder. Using a restored and remanufactured RD72 bi-retrograde perpetual calendar module (launched in 1999) combined with the automatic RD14 base calibre, the Hommage La Placide was presented in a compact and classically styled 38mm gold case, […]
Monochrome
Since its debut in 2012, the Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, like its Perpetual Calendar, has become one of the brand’s defining watches. Combining a practical travel complication with in-house mechanics at accessible pricing, it quickly became a cornerstone of the catalogue. Now, more than a decade later, Frederique Constant introduces a thoroughly updated version […]
Worn & Wound
Roger Dubuis’ latest releases at Watches and Wonders are steeped in the brand’s history. For the occasion, the maison introduces two complicated pieces – a perpetual calendar and day-date calendar – each in the brand’s patented biretrograde display. Prior to founding his namesake maison, Mr. Roger Dubuis was a prolific watchmaker for several brands, from Patek Philippe to Longines. One such project came in 1989 when he and fellow watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht collaboratively pioneered and patented their famous biretrograde display, which reworked the traditional concept and made it more streamlined. This approach eased assembly and improved the stability and readability of the hands on the ecliptic retrograde counters. Soon after, the pair engineered a double retrograde perpetual calendar module, which was notably used in a timepiece for Harry Winston. A year after the brand’s official founding, Roger Dubuis introduced its own biretrograde display timepiece and later the perpetual calendar complication in its iconic Sympathie and Homage collections. Today, we see the next evolution of these concepts highlighted in a rather modestly sized 40mm version of its Excalibur line. The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is notably powered by an entirely new movement: the RD850. Here, the maison builds upon the work set forth four decades ago with a self-winding caliber built from 435 components in-house at Roger Dubuis’ Geneva manufacture. A key functional i...
Worn & Wound
Last year, Parmigiani Fleurier had one of the strongest showings of any brand at Watches & Wonders, led by a pair of absolutely gorgeous, traditionally styled perpetual calendars. This is a brand that for me has been somewhat hard to get into, personally. While the quality of the watches themselves is never in question, I don’t always identify with the design choices, and think occasionally they lean a little too subtle for their own good. That’s why last year’s Toric Quantieme Perpetual was such a surprise. It’s not the kind of watch that usually lands in my wheelhouse, but I found that it was executed so perfectly that I just couldn’t ignore it. This year’s big novelty for Parmigiani at Watches & Wonders takes an entirely different approach, but follows a pair of recent creations that have been much admired flagships for this current generation of the brand. The Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux follows the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante and the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante with a new complication that is hidden until called upon by the wearer, and in doing so have created a chronograph that is impossibly minimalist at first blush, with no obvious indications that it is, in fact, a chronograph. That, of course, may or may not be appealing to you if you’re a chronograph fan. Part of the appeal of these watches for many is in how a chronograph naturally segments the dial and presents a variety of hopefully useful information in a cluster. The Chronograph Mystéri...
Monochrome
A. Lange & Söhne‘s main novelty for 2026 is the impressive Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen, a 50-piece edition that weds the brand’s two complications to its pioneering Lumen technology for the first time. While the iconic Lange 1 retains its off-centred configuration, core functions and proportions, the watch is powered by a new […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne has introduced the Saxonia Annual Calendar, the brand’s most compact annual calendar to date. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar plays to the strengths of Germany’s foremost watchmaker, combining a compact 36 mm case with an intuitive and legible ‘outsize date’ design reminiscent of the brand’s famed perpetual calendars. The new cal. L207.1 hints at future developments while incorporating refined details such as gold chatons around the going train jewels - a finishing touch that has been absent from the brand’s ‘entry-level’ automatic movements until now. Initial thoughts There’s been a palpable trend toward smaller watches in recent years - Lange’s 34 mm 1815 released last year was a major hit, and it seems like there’s more of a focus on dimensions and thickness than at any other time in the past decade or so. In this context, the Saxonia Annual Calendar should be well-received. At just 36 mm in diameter and under 10 mm thick, the watch is compact even by the standards of time-only watches. In fact, it’s the most compact annual calendar yet from Lange, and the small size of the dial makes the big date format especially convenient for those, like myself, who have trouble reading pointer dates at arm’s length. In fact, I’d argue the enhanced legibility and differentiated design of the big date makes the Saxonia Annual Calendar competitive with more complicated (but equally compact) perpetual ca...
Revolution
Hodinkee
Time to turn the lights off and enjoy the glowing view of a beautiful new luminous Lange.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne turns once again to its greatest hits for its flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2026. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” bestows the translucent, luminous treatment to the top-of-the-line Lange 1 in a 50-piece limited edition in platinum. Powered by the L225.1, an upgrade on the previous generation movement, the latest Lumen edition has a grey-tinted sapphire dial that reveals glow-in-the-dark elements, including the date discs and moon phase. Over the back, the edition is also set apart by a pair of steel cocks sporting engraving of stars. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” stands out as one of the most appealing Lumen models; I’d rank it up there along with the original Zeitwerk “Phantom” in terms of appeal. The Lumen treatment works best with lot of obvious luminous components, which is the case here. Flourishes like the luminous bases for each of the Roman hour numerals are a pleasing touch. The twin engraved steel cocks are especially noteworthy; the concept is classic Lange but the engraved star motif adds variety. That said, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” scores highly, maybe even perfectly, in terms of intrinsic and tactile appeal. The technical accomplishment is also top class: the calendar is instantaneous, movement construction is sophisticated, and decoration is outstanding. But this arguably scores less well in terms of originality or creativity. The moveme...
Deployant
A. Lange & Söhne gives the heavyweight Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar the "Lumen" treatment, in addition to a brand new movement.
Revolution
Hodinkee
An adaptation of the perpetual calendar Caliber 240 brings the first shaped caliber to the Cubitus line.
Monochrome
IWC Schaffhausen continues to expand the modern Ingenieur line by once again pairing the 1970s Gérald Genta-inspired integrated case and bracelet with the crown-operated perpetual calendar developed by Kurt Klaus in the early 1980s. Following the steel version launched last year, this 2026 release introduces a full-titanium construction; meet the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in […]
Monochrome
On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Patek Philippe keeps expanding its Cubitus collection with its first grand complication, a perpetual calendar. Presented in a 45mm platinum case, the model stands out with its openwork design and rectangular movement. The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection was unveiled in October 2024. Marking the brand’s first […]
Fratello
With the introduction of the Cubitus collection in late 2024, Patek Philippe established a new design language built around a square case with rounded corners and an integrated, sporty-leaning aesthetic. The initial trio of large-format references focused on time-and-date functionality. Then, smaller models in precious metals arrived in 2025. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Building off of Kurt Klaus' original design, this new generation movement allows crown adjustment of the calendar both forwards and in reverse.
Hodinkee
Oops! All lume.
Monochrome
Since the introduction of the annual calendar in 1996, Patek Philippe has owned this clever middle ground between simple calendars and perpetual calendars. The annual calendar complication, requiring just one correction per year, has since appeared in multiple layouts, from the classical reference 5146 to the more modern 5205, while the reference 4946 has established […]
Monochrome
IWC Schaffhausen has a very unique history when it comes to perpetual calendars. Naturally, this immediately brings to mind one particular figure: Kurt Klaus. His remarkable perpetual calendar module has left a mark on the history of watchmaking, notably as one of the most user-friendly systems ever created, where all adjustments can be made simply […]
Fratello
Okay, that subtitle is half right. The Masterlink design, with its typical “smile” at 6 o’clock, is not new. But instead of trying to fit a traditional round QP movement into the case, Gerald Charles chose to build a shaped one. The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar is so handsome that, apart from a closed-dial […] Visit Open Or Closed? The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Gives You A Choice to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar brings one of the brand’s most celebrated complications into its modern integrated sports watch design for the very first time. I take a closer look at what makes this latest evolution of the Ingenieur such a compelling release. What We Love: Compact proportions for a sports watch with Kurt-Klaus’s perpetual calendar design Beautifully executed case and dial finishing Stainless steel makes it more wearable and accessible What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment system on the bracelet clasp Limited strap versatility due to the integrated bracelet design No precious metal option at launch for those wanting a more luxurious take Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur has always been one of IWC’s most compelling designs, blending Gérald Genta’s signature aesthetic codes with the brand’s own sporty heritage and technical edge. I’ve been fortunate enough to review quite a few models from the Ingenieur range, which gives a good sense of how the overall collection sits across various sizes and complications. During Watches & Wonders 2025, arguably, one of the biggest shifts to the Ingenieur collection in modern times. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer presented the Ingenieur in a 41.6mm case, with none other than a perpetual calendar complication sitting inside. The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar is the first of its kind, released during Watches & Wonder...
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