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Pilot Watches · Page 31

A quick flyover of IWC’s Pilot’s collection feat. the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2019

A quick flyover of IWC’s Pilot’s collection feat. the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines

A little while ago, Andrew ran a series of overview videos on the various members of the IWC Pilot’s family. And, to be honest, it’s a story well worth telling, as the Pilot’s watch is one of the most recognisable and iconic wristwatch designs of the last 100 years. And while IWC don’t have a … ContinuedThe post A quick flyover of IWC’s Pilot’s collection feat. the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The IWC Mark XVIII Gifted to Employees on the 150th Anniversary SJX Watches
Oct 17, 2019

The IWC Mark XVIII Gifted to Employees on the 150th Anniversary

When IWC celebrated its 150th anniversary last year, it unveiled a large line-up of commemorative watches, including the clever and well-priced Tribute to Pallweber digital jump hour (and also opened an expansive new factory). But there was one more anniversary that has been pretty much a company secret until now: the Mark XVIII gifted to staff members at IWC headquarters in Schaffhausen. Over lunch yesterday, I spotted the Mark XVIII on the wrist of IWC museum curator David Seyffer. Given Dr Seyffer’s position – and access to some of the rarest and most desirable IWC watches – I was surprised that he was wearing the entry-level Pilot’s Watch. But when Dr Seyffer handed the watch over, he explained, with an evident amount of pride, this was no ordinary Mark XVIII. On the front, the watch has a 40mm steel case and metallic, dark blue dial that’s similar to a standard watch in the IWC Pilot’s Watch line-up. But on the back, it features the IWC 150th anniversary emblem, and just below that, the name of the employee who received the watch. According to Dr Seyffer, it was chief executive Chris Grainger-Herr’s idea to gift each employee at IWC headquarters a watch as a token of appreciation for their contribution to IWC’s 150 years of success. Male employees were given a Mark XVIII on a black Santoni leather strap, while female staff members were given a Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 on a steel bracelet. The total number produced is unknown, but IWC has about 700...

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph “80 Years Flight to New York” SJX Watches
Oct 15, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph “80 Years Flight to New York”

IWC’s latest limited edition is a surprisingly small run – 80 pieces to mark the 80th anniversary of the flight of the giant Latécoère 521 flying boat Lieutenant de Vaisseau Paris from New York to Lac de Biscarrosse in Southwestern France. Starting on Bastille Day, July 14, in 1939, the flight was the first nonstop crossing of the North Atlantic by flying boat. A passenger on the 28-hour, 27-minute journey was French aviator Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And it happens that one of IWC’s most popular sub-collections of pilot’s watches watches is Le Petit Prince, named after the famous novel by de Saint Exupéry. So the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph Edition “80 Years Flight to New York” is an offshoot of the Le Petit Prince collection, with a few tweaks. It retains the vaguely retro flavour, with Gothic-esque numerals and lozenge hands, but instead of the standard blue dial of Le Petit Prince, the anniversary watch has a brown metallic dial, matched with brown ceramic bezel. The edition is based on the Timezoner Chronograph, usually available only in the standard black and white livery of IWC’s basic Pilot’s Watches. It’s an unusual watch that combines both a flyback chronograph and IWC’s proprietary “timezoner” mechanism. Originally developed by the defunct watch brand Vogard, the timezoner mechanism has a rotating world time bezel linked to the second time zone, so turning the bezel moves the 24-hour hand in one-hour ste...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton SJX Watches
Oct 10, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton

Demand for the luxury sports watches that were born in the 1970s – all with integrated bracelets and designed by Gerald Genta – is now red hot. That has fuelled the development of such watches from every corner the industry, from Chopard to Urban Jurgensen to Bell & Ross (B&R). While many of these watches have sparked criticism for their derivative design, B&R’s entry into the genre comes with a distinct price advantage. The BR 05 is probably the most reasonably priced watch in this design category, starting at under US$5000. No doubt it owes a great debt to Genta’s designs, but it would be futile to compare it with the alternatives given the price gulf. But the standard BR 05 is a pretty conventional watch – well done for the price but not something that jumps out at you. The BR 05 Skeleton, on the other hand, is striking, with a look and feel that is distinct – priced at about 20% more than the base model. Well dressed Like all watches in its category, the BR 05 is largely all about the case and bracelet. The BR 05 Skeleton is identical to the base model on the outside, with a rounded-square case and a bezel with visible screws at its corners. While it is appears to be a mishmash of Genta’s classics, it bears a strong enough resemblance to the brand’s signature BR 01 and BR 03 cases – which were inspired by aircraft instrument panels – that it can pass as a rather natural evolution. But in contrast to the BR 01 and BR 03, the BR 05 ha...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234A in Steel (With Price) SJX Watches
Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234A in Steel (With Price)

Announced just yesterday, the Patek Philippe  Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Singapore 2019 ref. 7234A-001 created especially for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition is the first variation of the watch in stainless steel. It is limited to 400 pieces and will only be available in Southeast Asia. The Pilot Calatrava Travel Time was first introduced in 2014 as the ref. 5524G in a 42mm white-gold case. Later in 2018, the brand unveiled a 37.5mm version, the ref. 7234R in rose gold. While the case material is the main point of difference in the Singapore edition, its bluish grey dial is distinctive and unusual, and more so in the context of such vintage aviator-inspired dials which are typically in a darker colour for greater legibility. The dial colour is meant to evoke the seascapes of Southeast Asian nations, including the port city of Singapore. Its embossed blue calfskin strap, a first for Patek Philippe, is also unique to the watch. It is otherwise mechanically identical to the standard model. Powering it is the 294-part self-winding 324 S C FUS which features a dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time as well as a day and night indicator for both local and home time, displayed in apertures on the dial. Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement offers a 45-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 4Hz. As are all of Patek Philippe’s current movements, it is equipped with both a proprietary Gyromax balance and a silicon Spiromax hairsprin...

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition

It seems like only yesterday that Breitling released their Navitimer 1 Airline Editions. Evidently, time doesn’t stop for the aeronautically enthusiastic watchmaker, though, because they’ve just dropped this – the Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition.   Based on Breitling’s standard Aviator 8 Day & Date 41, the Etihad Airways … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 4 - the St Exupéry collection Time+Tide
Aug 29, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 4 - the St Exupéry collection

Ladies and gentlemen, we’ve begun our descent. Now that we’ve completed our overview of the Top Gun, Spitfire and Classic collections we’d ask you to stow your tray tables and please pay attention to the final instalment in our series – the IWC Pilot’s St Exupéry collection.  Now, IWC’s St Exupéry watches are named for … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 4 - the St Exupéry collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Stowa x RAW Darth Pilot SJX Watches
Aug 23, 2019

Introducing the Stowa x RAW Darth Pilot

A Singapore retailer that focuses on affordable, unusual timepieces, Red Army Watches (RAW) is marking its 15th year in business with a series of limited editions, made in collaboration with brands that personify its ethos. Last month the Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition” was launched, and this month sees the debut of the Stowa x RAW Darth Pilot, an all-black aviator’s watch. Stowa is, of course, the German watchmaker that is well loved for its accessible watches, mostly priced below US$1500. The brand was resurrected by its current owner, Jorge Schauer, in 1997, but was first established in 1927 by Walter Storz; the brand name is a contraction of “STOrz WAlter”. In its original incarnation Stowa was one of the five watch brands that supplied the oversized beobachtungshr, or B-Uhr for short, to the Luftwaffe, the German air force of the second world war. A smaller, contemporary B-Uhr Watches inspired by the vintage B-Uhr are now a key model line for Stowa, and the RAW Darth Pilot is based on the standard Stowa Verus, which is a modern take on the original Baumuster A B-Uhr. Compared to the vintage original, all the dial markings are larger, while the typography and hashmarks are rounded, as are the hands, giving it a more modern look. Most aviator-style watches are oversized and chunky, but the standard Verus is a compact 40mm in diameter (Stowa also offers an extra-large 43mm version of the Verus). And the all-black finish gives it an even smaller...

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection Time+Tide
Aug 22, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection

We’re now more than halfway through our flyover of the various families in the IWC Pilot’s family - we’ve covered off Top Gun and the Spitfire, but now we’re hitting the Classics. As you might expect given the classic moniker, the Classic family is, well, classic. Based strongly on the original military-era pilots, these watches … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection

Following on from last week’s look at the Top Gun collection, Andrew sets his sights on the heritage-inspired Spitfire collection. This year saw the Spitfire step up its status from an occasional silver-dialled offering to a fully formed collection in its own right. Gone are the silver dials of the past, replaced with either handsome … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection Time+Tide
Aug 8, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection

IWC is famous for their pilot’s watches, and rightfully so - they’re instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose - as a navigational tool for aviators - the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot “Right-Hander” Limited Edition SJX Watches
Aug 2, 2019

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot “Right-Hander” Limited Edition

IWC’s popular, oversized pilot’s watch is already available in as many variations as the sky is high, but the latest limited edition – the Big Pilot’s Watch “Right-Hander” – is the first that’s a “destro”. Italian for “right”, destro is a nickname often applies to watches with a left-handed crown, and thus catered to right-handed people. Because the onion-shaped crown sits at nine o’clock instead of the usual three, the movement inside has been rotated 180 degrees, bringing the power reserve indicator to nine o’clock as well. For those wondering if this is inspired by a historical, “destro” pilot’s watch, the answer is no. This is just a reinterpretation of a bestselling model. Crown-aside, the look is pretty much stock Big Pilot. The dial is a dark grey, with luminous markings and hands in white SuperLuminova. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model. The steel case is 46.2mm in diameter, with automatic cal. 52010 inside. It’s the second generation of the flagship IWC automatic movement, featuring a seven-day power reserve and a Pellaton winding mechanism with its pawls and winding wheels in wear-resistant ceramic. Key facts Diameter: 46.2mm Height: 15.6mm Material: Steel Water-resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 52010 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz Power reserve: 168 hours (7 days) Strap: Calfskin with folding clasp Price and availab...

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot Edition ‘Right-Hander’  Time+Tide
Aug 1, 2019

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot Edition ‘Right-Hander’ 

This is one of those watches that makes so much sense I’m amazed it didn’t exist until now. But before we dive into the details of the IWC Big Pilot Edition ‘Right-Hander’, let’s step back and have a quick recap on the Big Pilot.  The Big Pilot is a watch with two distinct histories. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot Edition ‘Right-Hander’  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dale is an actual pilot – and he wears a Breitling Navitimer Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2019

Dale is an actual pilot – and he wears a Breitling Navitimer

Today’s entrant into the ‘Every Watch Tells a Story’ hall of fame is Dale. It turns out that Dale has a bit of a thing for pilot’s watches, and for good reason - Dale is a commercial airline pilot. And the pride of his collection is none other than the mighty Breitling Navitimer. In case you’re not … ContinuedThe post Dale is an actual pilot – and he wears a Breitling Navitimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph Review WatchAdvice
Jul 23, 2019

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph Review

The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega were the official timekeeper of the Olympic games.  Things changed however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from being a watch used to time sporting events, to being the watch Astronauts used for space travel? It all starts with a story about a man named Walter Schirra. Being an aviator and military pilot himself, he was about to embark on the Mercury-Atlas 8 Mission. As a way to possibly mark the momentous occasion, he went watch hunting (as any of us would without a doubt). Omega had established a position for itself and with the release of the eye-catching Speedmaster Chronograph, it would be safe to say that it more than caught Schirra’s attention. This would be the turning point in Speedmaster’s history as from this point forward, it would go onto do numerous space travel missions.  The “Professional” name was added to the Speedmaster during the 1964-1965 period. The Speedmaster would further cement its legacy as NA...

Bell & Ross 
BR 03-92 Ceramic Heritage Review WatchAdvice
Jul 17, 2019

Bell & Ross 
BR 03-92 Ceramic Heritage Review

Founded in 1992 as a university project, Bell & Ross was formed by two friends; Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo. These two young entrepreneurs had a joint vision of creating a watch that embodied the idea of combining functionality and robustness into one timepiece. When the manufacturing for Bell & Ross watches started, they had to get them made by a third-party manufacturer in Germany by who we know today as SINN. As the first models of Bell & Ross watches were released, they came with the inscription “by SINN” on the dial. SINN’s partnership with Bell & Ross lasted until 2002, when Bell & Ross were able to acquire their own manufacturing plant in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. After the acquisition of the manufacturing plant is when Bell & Ross wanted to expand their range of watch models and create a timepiece that carried their ideologies while keeping the aesthetics of the watch as simple as possible. To do this, they looked towards the military forces, diving commandos and air-forces to draw inspiration from.  Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo knew that the military forces and their counterparts used instruments that have easy readability while having toughness to endure the rough situations. This was the inspiration behind the first model the BR – 01 and also the start of their most iconic BR Instrument range, released in 2005. This watch became one of the most recognisable timepieces in the the watch industry and gave the brand the international exposu...

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Jul 14, 2019

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch”

Montblanc recently introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a bronze case, black, multi-scale dial, and a monopusher, split-seconds Minerva movement inside. Priced at just 33,500 Swiss francs, it is a bargain as such things go. Now Montblanc has taken the covers off the one-of-a-kind, titanium version with a blue agate dial created for charity auction Only Watch 2019. Though it costs a bit more – the estimate is 42,000-48,000 Swiss francs – the watch still feels like a steal. The dial is made of blue agate, a hard, semiprecious stone, with a graduated colour that darkens towards the edges. Design-wise it’s the same as that found on the bronze model: inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made by Minerva, it has a double chronograph scale – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the middle. The contrast of white and red against the blue dial is both refreshing and striking. Notably, the dial forgoes the faux-aged “lume” of the bronze model; the cathedral hands and numerals are instead filled with white Super-LumiNova, letting the retro design speak for itself. The large dimensions of the case remain unchanged from the standard bronze model – 44mm in diameter and 14.55mm high – but it’s significantly lighter thanks to the lightness of titanium. The sapphire caseback reveals the gorgeous, hand-wound and hand-finished MB M16.31. It is essentially the MB M16.29 derived from a pocket watch movement, but w...