Monochrome
Hanhart, a German watch brand renowned for its pilot watches, is easily recognized by the distinctive red markings on its bezels and the signature red pusher on its chronograph models. While Hanhart hasn’t traditionally ventured into the realm of dive watches, the brand recently dived in that direction with the 300m water-resistant Fly Navy Aerosphere […]
Monochrome
Founded in 1925, Laco was one of the five manufactures in charge of producing military observation watches – B-Uhren – for pilots of the German Luftwaffe in the 1940s. Renowned today for its vintage-inspired pilot’s watches, Laco’s Scorpion dive watch collection has a far more contemporary face and a rugged build to withstand extreme outdoor […]
Fratello
Today, we’ll examine the Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary limited edition. This is the third hands-on review of these special celebration models. The Navitimer is arguably the most famous Breitling chronograph, meaning this piece had better be good! Thus far, we’ve gone hands-on with the Super Chronomat and Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.
Monochrome
Bell & Ross is among the few watch brands that place luminescence at the heart of their designs, a bold approach that dates to 2019 with the BR 03-92 Full Lum, which featured a dial entirely coated in Super-LumiNova. However, this experimentation began in 2017 with the BR 03-92 Horolum and BR 03-92 Nightlum in […]
Monochrome
What if…? This simple statement could easily summarize what Albishorn‘s founder Sébastien Chaulmontet wants to achieve with the brand, or “Imaginary Vintage” watches as he likes to call it. Things started with the appealing Maxigraph, or what a modern regatta chronograph would have looked like in the 1930s. Now, Albishorn takes flight, and Chaulmontet creates […]
SJX Watches
Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...
SJX Watches
Having made its debut with the Big Pilot AMG G 63 a year ago, ceramic matrix composite (CMC) is an innovative material currently unique to IWC in watchmaking. Little was disclosed about the material at launch, but IWC has just released additional detail on CMC. Notably, the material was developed in collaboration with the Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt (DLR), or German Aerospace Center, a national research institute specialising in aerospace, travel, energy, and even quantum computing. While novel materials are common in watchmaking, brands rarely reveal the origin of the materials, making this collaboration notable. Moreover, the DLR is a highly regarded, independent technical institute, which arguably gives CMC more credibility (and cachet) than most composites employed in watchmaking. Utilising a space-qualified like CMC in a watch tied to a high-performance SUV, however, seems to be a missed opportunity, though it’s a certainty IWC has plans for the the material. Blocks of CMC Staying true to size Fibre ceramic composites are a new class of materials, which combine the surface hardness of conventional ceramics with high tolerance to mechanical and thermal shocks. DLR’s previous work with ceramic composites revolved around making large components for aerospace applications, namely rockets or satellites. The institute was looking to adapt its short-fibre pressing technology for making smaller, near-net-shape parts – not unlike a watch case. Near-net-sha...
Our ongoing Enthusiast Spotlight series is all about uncovering passionate people who care deeply about the objects with which they surround themselves. For our latest installment, we spend the day with aviation enthusiasts and pilots Erin and Paul Hooker from Phoenix, AZ. These two young and ambitious aviators define enthusiasm to a tee. For them, flying has become an absolutely essential part of their live/work/play equation. Precision gauges and instruments are now more important to them as ever. We strapped some of Citizen’s latest Promasters, including both Sky and Dive models, onto their wrists to get their first impressions and understand just how important having a robust tool watch is to their day-to-day. The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Flying the Friendly Arizona Skies with Erin and Paul Hooker and Citizen Promaster Sky appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Fortis‘ motto, “Tool Watch. Redefined,” takes on fresh meaning with the introduction of the new Vagabond collection. With this release, the brand is redefining its approach and how we perceive Fortis, long known for adventure-inspiring timepieces. While its existing collections Novonaut, Flieger and Stratoliner cover aerospace and nautical (Marinemaster series) themes, the Vagabond line appears […]
Fratello
Would you believe me if I told you we have never featured a dedicated article about a vintage Nivada Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver article on Fratello? I had to check twice, but it’s true. Let’s fix this with a scarce version of the Nivada CASD. This one is one is ref. 85004/4076, aka the “Orange […] Visit #TBT Why The “Orange Boy” Is The Best Vintage Nivada CASD You Can Get to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 1934, Airain was well known for its Type 20 flyback chronographs in the mid-20th century, supplying the French military along with brands like Breguet and Mathey Tissot. These chronographs could be instantly reset to zero by pressing the 4 o’clock pusher via the flyback function and had specific requirements like a bidirectional 12-hour […]
Monochrome
Flieger-style watches tend to share a similar aesthetic across various brands. However, Stowa, one of the most historically significant manufacturers of pilot’s watches, offers various designs while remaining faithful to the original Type A and Type B models. The latest addition to the brand’s Pilot collection presents a strikingly modern interpretation of the Baumuster A. […]
Fratello
Four IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Polaris Dawn” models in white ceramic with space-blue dials are back on Earth. Along with their wearers, they launched from NASA’s Kennedy Space Center in Florida at 05:23 EDT on September 10th, 2024. The four members of the crew and their watches safely splashed down off the coast of […] Visit Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space to read the full article.
Fratello
The 140th anniversary of Breitling has brought with it three stupendous watches. Navitimer, Premier, and Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar pieces in red gold celebrate the milestone. We’ve managed to get our hands on each of them, so look forward to in-depth reviews of all three. Today, we start with the largest of the bunch, the […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.
On episode 90 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers three exciting and fun new releases, two of which have uncommon complications. First up is the new Formex Stratos UTC, which while being a GMT, operates unexpectedly. Next, is the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, a non-limited version of the watch they released with Christopher Ward a few years back. Lastly, we have the Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon, which continues the brand’s playful take on pilot instrumentation. Check it out below, and please like and subscribe. This episode was sponsored by Sternglas and their new Naos Pro Automatik Watch. As a special feature with this release, early buyers can secure a gold-toned Miyota 9015 movement. Head to sternglas.com to learn more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 90: Formex and Fears Focus on Fun (Complications) appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
The Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon is a timepiece that stands out in the crowded market of pilot watches. It is part of Stowa's modern Verus collection and features a 40 mm ‘Black Forest’ case, a nod to the region where the company is based. The design is inspired by the Blautopf in Baden-Württemberg, known for its dark woods and strikingly blue waters, which is reflected in the watch's unique dial design.
Teddy Baldassarre
Nearly everything we regard as a modern luxury was once a military necessity. Okay, maybe that’s too broad a statement. But when you consider the impact of inventions like the Internet (set up as a Department of Defense communications network in 1969) and GPS navigation (which still uses military satellites from the 1970s) - not to mention the rise of the Jeep from humble troop conveyance to luxury SUV; the ubiquity of microwave ovens (which emerged from NATO radar experiments); and the enduring civilian stylishness of accessories like cargo pants and aviator sunglasses - a substantial case can be made that goods made to military specifications, or MIL-SPEC, have made an inestimable impact on everyday life. Nowhere is this influence seen more strongly than in the world of wristwatches - not only those intentionally designed for a military or tactical look, but in many styles and genres throughout the industry. From Waistcoat to War: Origin of the Wristwatch While it’s unlikely that a distinctly elegant timepiece, like a Patek Philippe Calatrava or a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, will put you in the mind of battlefields and trenches, the truth is that wristwatches themselves are essentially a military invention - at least, the ones designed for men. Women had been wearing timepieces on pendants and bracelets for decades, since the middle of the 19th Century, but it was the utilitarian needs of soldiers in World War I that ushered them into general usage for ...
SJX Watches
Having launched the latest-generation Type XX last year, Breguet is adding to the family with the Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold, a new take on the “civilian” aviator’s chronograph. Inspired by a historical design, the latest Type XX features the a 12-hour bezel and three registers, along with a sophisticated, high-frequency chronograph movement. The cal. 728 Initial thoughts While the new Type XX is described by Breguet as being inspired by the vintage Type XX no. 1780 – one of just three vintage Type 20s in gold – it is an entirely modern watch in look and feel. The vintage inspiration is visible, but the colours, materials, and finishing bestow a polished, modern look, which is a good thing. This contrasts with last year’s Type XX in steel that tried too hard to look vintage with faux-aged lume and lance-shaped hands, which was at odds with the overall look and feel. The new Type XX, on the other hand, looks coherently contemporary. With a dial and hands resembling that of the 1990s-era Type XX, the new chronograph also looks more proportional and balanced, though it retains the same dimensions as last year’s model. Interestingly, though the new Type XX has the date window in exactly the same place as last year’s watch, the date does not look as obvious here. Priced at US$37,900, the new Type XX 2067 is more affordable than the competition. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph in pink gold, for example, retails for US$49,700. Admittedly, t...
Worn & Wound
There are few things that I enjoy writing about more than a crazy new watch from Bell & Ross. These watches are catnip for me, whether it’s something along the lines of my beloved Multimeter, a watch incorporating a giant skull, or a case that gets the full lume treatment, I can’t help myself. Bell & Ross, when they’re weird, is one of my all time favorite brands, full stop. So it was with a great deal of interest that I came across the announcement of the all new BR-03 Horizon limited edition last week, the latest in the brand’s series of watches inspired by on-board aircraft instrumentation. Of course, it could be argued that any of the square cased Bell & Ross watches share this inspiration, sharing an aesthetic as they do with a kind of generic idea of a gauge that you might see in a cockpit, but the watches in this series take a more literal approach. The BR-03 Gyrocompass, for instance, has a dial that is dressed up as, well, a gyrocompass. And this limited edition, along those same lines, brings the artificial horizon to your wrist. The artificial horizon is an essential tool for pilots, providing them with basic spatial orientation that is essential for safely piloting an aircraft. The gauge is quite simple, and shows at a quick glance an approximation of a an aircraft’s position relative to the surface of the earth. It’s particularly important for pilots flying in conditions where visibility might be an issue, such as in the dark or night or through ...
Worn & Wound
My journey with Habring² started back in 2009 when my girlfriend (now wife) and I decided to spend a cozy weekend in Vienna. At the time, I was living and working in Prague, thus it was an easy drive to Vienna. On a chilly November morning, after a delightful breakfast, we wandered through the city. That’s when I noticed these enormous banners showcasing various watch brands for an event called Vienna Time. Among them was a banner for Habring². I had been a fan of the brand but had never seen any of their watches in person. So, I jumped at the chance to visit and meet the brand’s founders, Richard and Maria Habring. Fast forward to today, after knowing the Habrings for so many years, I can honestly say they are some of the most down-to-earth and caring people you’ll ever meet. And it shows in their watchmaking too. I like to call it “honest watchmaking.” Their watches are reasonably priced, especially considering the various complications they offer. Even the packaging is charmingly unpretentious-a compact wooden box that simply says, “made with love.” In this box, the Habrings also include spare parts necessary for the first service with our preferred local watchmaker-a practical consideration. The Habrings do not like to discuss Richard’s past accomplishments at various big brands like IWC and Lange. However, they are well documented online. As a primer, I would recommend reading this Hodinkee article by Jason Heaton, and this WatchProZine write-up ...
Monochrome
Probably one of the most emblematic pilot’s chronographs around, and an icon from the Breguet collection, the Type XX was revamped last year, with historic design cues and a high-end flyback movement. The comeback of this important and historically relevant model was made with two watches, one with military inspiration, the Type 20, and one […]
Worn & Wound
The post Military-Inspired Pilot Watches, Versatile EDC Carryall, and Great Deal on ADPT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Paris-based brand Bell & Ross introduced its now-iconic BR-03 series in 2005 as a 42mm alternative to the larger 46mm square-shaped aeroplane dashboard instruments-inspired BR-01. Last year, the BR 03 collection – now the brand’s core offering – received a welcome update. The latest addition, the Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon, is part of the […]
Deployant
So you think that you have seen everything from Bell & Ross' BR-03, think again! Presenting the latest Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon which transposes one of the most iconic flight instruments, the Artificial Horizon from an aircraft's dashboard onto the wrist.
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