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Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 10

Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised SJX Watches
Aug 6, 2025

Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised

Jaquet Droz is enjoying a good run with unique, dragon-themed watches. While last month’s debut was firmly in the mould of Anglo-Saxon fantasy lore, the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask” is inspired by the Chinese dragon. A unique piece created at the behest of a client, like most of brand’s current repertoire, the Dragon Mask has an open-worked dial engraved and painted by hand – and set with emeralds – installed on a skeletonised, self-winding tourbillon movement. Initial thoughts Personalised commissions are, by definition, personal and not for everyone. This watch is over the top in its decoration, maybe even overdone to the point of kitsch, but I like it. Dragon-themed watches don’t always get the motif right – Breguet’s dragon was a little too fat – but this one is done well in its own way. The case is a little large for what it is, but the size is useful as it results in a larger canvas for the dial decoration. And because this is a Jaquet Droz, the execution, both in terms of dial and movement, will be good quality, as is usually the case with the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group. I imagine the client who commissioned this will be pleased – except maybe for the CHF450,000 price tag, which is steep but typical for a watch like this. A dragon in all its colours Despite its strikingly different look, the Dragon Mask is actually a variation of the clean and modern Tourbillon Skelet. Both share the same movement and case, but the Drago...

Up Close: Vanguart Orb Tourbillon SJX Watches
Jul 30, 2025

Up Close: Vanguart Orb Tourbillon

Vanguart is surprisingly under the radar, despite having been eight years old. The brand was founded in 2017 by a quartet that includes alumni of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi (APRP), and last year introduced its most notable product yet, the Orb. The watch arguably goes against the grain of independent watchmaking today. Instead of being traditional, simple, and brightly finished, it is appears intricately mechanical and distinctly modern in style. A flying tourbillon wristwatch with an inventive, thoughtful technical approach, the Orb is powered by a layered, skeleton movement with a novel winding-function selector that allows for switching between manual and automatic winding. And it’s been trending recently after having been spotted on the wrist of singer Ed Sheeran during a concert in Germany. Initial thoughts I first encountered Vanguart when it launched the Black Hole Tourbillon in 2021. The brand caught my interest because it was set up by an all-star team that included two technical experts from APRP. Though the Black Hole was technically impressive, the oversized, space-ship shape felt overdone and way too much on the wrist (and also twice as expensive). The Orb, on the other hand, is (almost) just right. When I first saw the Orb, I thought it might be yet another basic tourbillon movement in fancy dress but priced exorbitantly. I was wrong. The movement is impressive in many respects. The Black Hole Tourbillon. Image – Vanguart The Orb is both minimalist and...

Introducing: The Futuristic CIGA Design Z Series Hunter Automatic Skeleton Fratello
Jul 25, 2025

Introducing: The Futuristic CIGA Design Z Series Hunter Automatic Skeleton

When I think of CIGA Design, the first thing that immediately comes to mind is the brand’s highly successful Blue Planet. The watch is not only instantly recognizable, but it has also won numerous prizes. Still, there is another side to the CIGA Design that is far more modern and futuristic. The new Z Series […] Visit Introducing: The Futuristic CIGA Design Z Series Hunter Automatic Skeleton to read the full article.

Catching Up on New Releases from Ming, Wren, Squale, and Doxa Worn & Wound
Jul 19, 2025

Catching Up on New Releases from Ming, Wren, Squale, and Doxa

Happy Saturday! Dive watch summer continues – we’ve noticed some fun new divers, all limited editions, come across the transom lately. New water ready releases from Doxa, Wren, and Doxa are profiled below. We’re also spotlight the latest from Ming – while not a diver, it has a stealthiness to it that feels appropriate for the season. Let us know in the comments what you think of these new releases, and what we might have missed. Wren Diver 38 Wren is back with their second watch, the all new Diver 38. The brand, founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, launched last year with the Diver One, and the new piece is a scaled down, and perhaps more refined take on the original concept. The new version of the watch is smaller, coming in at, you guessed it, 38mm, and is just 10.7mm tall (the original was 41mm in diameter and over 13mm thick). The dial has a sandwich style design, in either a gradient seafoam green or aqua colorway. According to Karger, the goal here was to move Wren into a new category that “balances practicality, comfort, and refined execution.”  The Wren Diver 38 is available in date and no-date versions for $1,595. It runs on a ETA  2892 automatic caliber, and has 200 meters of water resistance. It’s mounted to a flat-link, stainless steel bracelet, and the ceramic bezel insert is fully lumed. Another nice touch: the rotor is skeletonized in the shape of a wren. More information on the Wren Diver 38 can be found on the Wren website here. Mi...

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort Fratello
Jul 19, 2025

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort

Open-worked high-end watches aren’t uncommon. In fact, at a certain level of exclusivity, they’re rather typical. Yet, when I opened my messages the other day, a head-turning piece was staring back at me. The new Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort is a unique-looking object because of its simplicity and finishing. Yes, I shot a […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic Fratello
Jul 11, 2025

Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic

We told you to sit tight and catch that wave when it comes around. Well, surf’s up, people, because today’s the day the frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic comes out in a limited edition of 100 watches. It’s the final “Surfer” of the trilogy and your last chance to catch […] Visit Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.

Introducing the Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic Worn & Wound
Jul 10, 2025

Introducing the Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic

Like a moth to the flame, I am drawn to Bell & Ross novelties. I can’t help myself. This is a brand that many have levied legitimate criticisms at. They are too expensive, too big, there are too many releases, and on and on. And I’ll be honest, the core watches, the normal ones (the watches the brand probably needs to sell a ton of to remain in business) do very little for me. But if you put a skull on the dial, or inject luminescent material into the case, or add several timing scales that are almost impossible to read with the naked eye, well, I find those watches hard to resist. My beloved BR-03 Multimeter looms large in my mind here. There are times, even recently, where I’ve thought to myself “I really should sell this – I just don’t wear it much.” But then I take it out of the box, put it on, and am charmed by it once again. How could I part with something so strange? The latest release from Bell & Ross is not as wild as the Multimeter, or a watch with a skull for a dial, but it’s a few clicks out from the norm, and adventurous in its own way. The BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic sees the brand playing in a genre that just a few years ago was reserved for only the highest end watches from the highest end brands: integrated bracelet sports watches in ceramic with skeleton dials.  The BR-05, at this point, feels like a mature collection. It’s kind of hard to believe it’s been around for more than five years at this point. But it was, in fact, one of ...

Zenith and Time+Tide Collaborate on a Third Defy “Surfer” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Jul 8, 2025

Zenith and Time+Tide Collaborate on a Third Defy “Surfer” Limited Edition

Zenith has once again partnered with the Australian watch media website Time+Tide on a limited edition Defy. The third watch in the trilogy, which follows the Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer from 2021 and the Defy Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer El Primero in 2023 completes the concept of the “Surfer Trilogy” with a bold white ceramic case that incorporates design details from each of the previous watches. It’s definitely an aesthetic change of pace, but taken together, all three watches make a lot of sense as a trio. Prior “Surfer” limited editions have sold out quickly, so if you were after one and missed out, you now have another (final?) chance to snag one.  Each of the previous limited edition Defys in the “Surfer” series have been in micro-blasted titanium cases, making the white ceramic here a stark contrast. Ceramic, though, is arguably the material most associated with the contemporary Defy, whether in the now discontinued Classic line or the new Skyline series. Zenith is one of a small handful of brands that has reached true expert status with this material. Like other Skylines, the case measures 41mm in diameter and is 100 meters water resistant with a screw down crown.  We’ve seen a white ceramic Skyline before, but this new Time+Tide LE, even with a case that has so much presence, is really defined by the dial. That blue gradient dial is the design element that is carried over from prior “Surfer” watches and provides some coherence to th...

Bvlgari Octo Roma Chronograph Watch Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Jul 5, 2025

Bvlgari Octo Roma Chronograph Watch Hands-On Review

A chronograph that blends sporty functionality with refined Italian elegance. This is the Octo Roma Chronograph: a timepiece that feels as good on the wrist as it looks. What We Love The beautiful blue Clous de Paris dial adds texture and depth while remaining versatile for everyday wear. The watch is very comfortable to wear and fits slimmer wrists perfectly thanks to short lug-to-lug distance. Distinctive Octo Roma design blends sporty functionality with refined Italian elegance. What We Don’t The date window colour is not matched to the dial, slightly disrupting the cohesive aesthetic. The caseback winding rotor could be skeletonised for a more modern and engaging view of the movement. Lume application could be stronger for enhanced low-light legibility during evening wear. Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 First introduced in 2012, Bvlgari’s Octo collection showcased the brand’s architectural design and mechanical mastery. This collection stood out proudly thanks to its distinctive case design, where the round bezel with an eight-sided profile gave it a distinctive silhouette. The Octo collection, however, quickly became known for so much more than this signature design. Breaking records became the norm for the collection, as the brand kept pushing the boundaries of watchmaking through the Octo Finissimo timepieces which debuted in 2014. Three years later, in 2017, Bvlgari introduced the late...

First Look - A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton Monochrome
Jul 4, 2025

First Look - A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton

Norqain, the young, independent Swiss brand, produces contemporary, adventure-oriented watches. Many of the brand’s most popular models belong to the Independence collection, including the high-tech carbon fibre Wild One, conceived in collaboration with Jean-Claude Biver, the Skeleton Flyback Chrono featuring a proprietary manufacture calibre, and Norqain’s first skeletonised model. In line with current market watch […]

Introducing: The Norqain Independence Skeleton 40mm Fratello
Jul 4, 2025

Introducing: The Norqain Independence Skeleton 40mm

When Norqain launched in 2018, larger watches were still the norm for many consumers. Fast-forward seven years, and buyers now enjoy the option of a moderately sized timepiece. Additionally, brands are now offering watches that may appeal to women. Norqain isn’t ignoring the shift to smaller watches. This March, a 39mm Wild One, the biggest […] Visit Introducing: The Norqain Independence Skeleton 40mm to read the full article.

Comments 5

  1. Karam
    The Greubel Forsey architecture mentioned here is genuinely impressive from a chronometry standpoint. Those openworked layouts don't come cheap in terms of manufacturing tolerances. Curious if the article touched on how skeleton designs affect COSC certification or if there's any measurable deviation penalty versus solid movement cases.
  2. Anonymous
    Skeleton watches always feel a bit theatrical to me, like you're paying extra just to see the gears spinning. That said, there's something genuinely beautiful about the hand-pierced pocket watches from the 18th century mentioned here. Modern ones feel like they're trying too hard.
  3. WatchHusk
    The AP Royal Oak Skeleton and Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon get all the press, but honestly if you want to appreciate openworked movements without the six-figure price tag, look at what the microbrands are doing. Brands like Nezumi Studios and Raven are exploring skeleton concepts with real craftsmanship and way more soul per dollar spent.
  4. Reece
    been looking at skeleton watches and wondering about the depreciation angle. AP Royal Oak holds value pretty well historically, but does the skeleton variant retain differently than the standard model? cost of ownership over 5 years must be brutal if you're paying sport watch prices for something you mainly wear on weekends.
  5. Ravi
    Is a skeleton watch actually worth it as a first watch versus something like a standard Submariner or Speedmaster. I love the look but some of the collector stuff seems way out of budget. Should I be patient and save or is there a good entry point.

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