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Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 26

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial SJX Watches
May 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial

As has become tradition, TAG Heuer is launching a new Monaco chronograph to mark the annual Formula 1 race in the principality of the same name. While past editions for the Monaco Grand Prix leaned towards vintage in terms of style, the Monaco Skeleton Dial is almost entirely modern. Though the watch retains the trademark Monaco case and even many elements of the dial, it has no practically no dial, most of which has been removed to reveal the movement below. Initial thoughts Just like the recent Monza Flyback and Carrera “Glassbox”, the Monaco Skeleton Dial continues TAG Heuer’s pivot towards contemporary designs that its chief executive Frederic Arnault has indicated is the way forward. This is a good thing, because it allows the brand to move away from being reliant on the vintage-esque sports watches that are all too common in this price segment. The new Monaco itself manages to look very much like a Monaco while still being very different. Despite the seemingly opposite characteristics, everything works well together, although the look is certainly more appealing in the all-black iteration than its siblings. The only caveat is the price, which at about US$11,000 makes this a third more expensive than a Monaco with the same movement and case but a conventional dial. That feels like a bit too much for the open-worked dial, which admittedly required substantial reworking of the movement. Loosely vintage inspired The Monaco Skeleton Dial gets its name from, well, a...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton Worn & Wound
May 9, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton

The Zenith Defy collection of watches spans an almost shocking array of references, including watches like the Revival darlings, right on up to crazy Defy Extremes and Defy 21s. Connecting all of these dots is the new(ish) Defy Skyline collection, which was introduced early last year, and which welcomed new iterations this year, including a variant meant to replace the excellent Defy Classic with an open dial. That watch is the Defy Skyline Skeleton, and it’s not simply an openworked version of the regular Skyline. This is a distinct watch in a few important ways, bringing some of the big personality found in the Extreme and 21 references, into a slightly more approachable framework.  The Skyline Skeleton takes its Defy roots seriously. From its wrist watch inception back in the ‘60s, the Defy has been a vehicle through which Zenith has strived to craft the future of watchmaking. This manifested in avant guard shapes, high-tech movements, and intricate bracelet integrations from the get go. Today, Zenith honors this heritage with their Revival series, but for all intents and purposes, the Defy range as it exists today, is still pushing the envelope in looking to the future. $11000 [VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton Case Stainless Steel Movement El Primero 3620 SK high-frequency Dial Black or Blue Skeleton Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless Steel; Rubber Water Resistance 10ATM Dimensions 41x46mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug ...

Hands On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph SJX Watches
May 9, 2023

Hands On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception.  The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials.  That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas” SJX Watches
May 4, 2023

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas”

Franck Muller’s latest venture into unorthodox case materials is a pair of watches with cases and dials in Damascus steel. Available only at the brand’s stores in Asia, the Vanguard “Damas” and “Damas Racing” retain the tonneau-shaped case of the brand’s bestseller but enhanced with the texture and depth of Damascus steel. Initial thoughts  The use of Damascus steel gives the Vanguard a new and appealing look. Because the model has been iterated numerous times, the Vanguard line is made up of an almost endless range of variants, but mostly in conventional metal alloys or carbon composite. The Damas models easily stand apart, making them instantly recognisable.   The case metal is particularly suited to the skeletonised Damas Racing – the open-worked dial contrasts against the graining of the Damascus steel, making it a perfect complement to the case material. And its open-worked numerals in Damascus steel are an especially pleasing detail. The Vanguard “Damas Racing” Both Damas models, however, are pricey relative to other Franck Muller offerings. The Vanguard “Damas” costs just over US$13,000 (and the open-worked model is almost double), making it twice as expensive as a comparable time-only Vanguard in a conventional steel case. That’s true even compared to the competition. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet, which features a similar case material, costs about the same as the open-worked Vanguard “Damas Racing”, but it’s a chronograph in...

A Week In Watches Ep. 46: All The Collaborations, Plus One Anniversary Worn & Wound
Apr 23, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 46: All The Collaborations, Plus One Anniversary

Welcome to A Week In Watches, episode 45! This week, we were inundated with collaboration watches, and they are as diverse as they are interesting. From a $110 Timex, to a $26,000 Czapek, there’s a little something for everyone here. The most humble release of the week comes from Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who brought back a classic form the ’90s, the Ironman Flix watch. It’s a jolt of energy next to today’s modern ultra smart devices, and it’s a perfect workout companion even without all the bells & whistles of something like an Apple Watch. Another big theme this week (and recent years, come to think of it) is big colors and dial textures. We’ve got blue wave dials, lava red dials, and rose engine turned dials all making their way into a trio of releases from Czapek, Straum, and Atelier Wen, and their respective collab partners. Finally, we say congratulations to our friends at Norqain for hitting their 5 year anniversary, who celebrated with a selection of 5 new watches. We take a closer look at their version of an openworked dial, and wish them continued success in their journey. Here’s hoping we get more lume dials sometime soon. Next weekend, we’ll be coming at you from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair, and if you’re in the Bay Area, we hope to see you there. For more details on this year’s event, head over to windupwatchfair.com and get a look at the schedule for each of the days, as well as the extensive list of brands you can look f...

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton SJX Watches
Apr 21, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton

Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts  At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...

Hublot Continues their Collaboration with Tattoo Artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi in the New Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 19, 2023

Hublot Continues their Collaboration with Tattoo Artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi in the New Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Collection

Hublot and tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi are back again for another entry in the Sang Bleu collection, a series of watches named for Plescia-Buchi’s tattoo studios located in Los Angeles, Zurich, and London. The Sang Bleu watches always incorporate complex geometry and the watch design equivalent of the intricate line work that is core to Plesia-Buchi’s design language. These design elements translate remarkably well to a watch, if you’re at all inclined toward the abstract, at least. Up until now, the Big Bang has been Plesia-Buchi’s preferred canvas, but that changes here with a selection of watches using the barrel shaped Spirit of Big Bang as a starting point.  As with previous Sang Bleu watches, the new editions seen here are marked by a series of facets throughout the case that create a compelling, sculpted look. The overlapping geometric shapes have a grid-like consistency and at some angles appear to take on the appearance of armor. Hublot has given Plescia-Buchi a great deal of freedom to work outside the normal constraints of the Spirit of Big Bang case shape. While that case is the clear inspiration for these watches and certainly falls under its larger umbrella, the lines of the case have been reworked to a certain extent, and the impression it gives from the front is quite a bit different in these Sang Bleu watches.  The dial is sapphire and provides a view to the skeletonized chronograph movement underneath it. Time is read by rotating disc “...

The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship Time+Tide
Apr 17, 2023

The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship

Humans are strange creatures. We flock to what’s “hot” and turn our noses up at what’s “not” in order to feel a part of something. It happens all the time. In fashion, in cars and most definitely in watches. We stick with the hits (even when we can’t buy them!) and ignore the rest. For once … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary with a Quintet of New Releases, and a Bracelet with a Frequently Requested Feature Worn & Wound
Apr 14, 2023

Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary with a Quintet of New Releases, and a Bracelet with a Frequently Requested Feature

Norqain is celebrating their fifth anniversary this week with the release of five all new watches in the Independence collection. Five years is an interesting marker to consider. It’s both an impressive accomplishment for any new brand to stick around for that long – we can all point to small, upstart brands that have come and gone in much less time. But it’s also a vanishingly short period in the grand scheme of watchmaking, where the most durable brands have had literal centuries to build their identities. All the more impressive for Norqain then, as they’ve carved out an aesthetic that is immediately recognizable, and have made a ton of progress in developing a culture around their watches that focuses on a new generation of collectors. All of the new anniversary pieces seem to be born out of those ideas, and continue to iterate on what is now a well established design language.  The new watches breakdown as follows: we have two new Independence Skeleton references in 42mm cases, one DLC coated, the other with blue accents; two Independence 40mm pieces, one with a brown gradient dial, the other with a green gradient dial; and a new reference aimed at the female market, an Independence 40mm with a mint mother-of-pearl dial and diamond accents.  The Independence Skeleton watches are follow ups to earlier skeleton releases dating back over the last two years. The DLC coated version has red gold plated hands and applied hour markers, while the non-coated version f...

Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence Time+Tide
Apr 14, 2023

Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence

Norqain is celebrating their 5th anniversary, and 5 years of their brand-debuting Independence collection Three have solid coloured dials (green, brown, and MOP), two are skeletons All COSC-certified, and each feature their new bracelet with on-the-fly micro-adjustment At this very moment Norqain, the press, and their partners are rocking out in Zermatt, Switzerland for the … ContinuedThe post Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados Time+Tide
Apr 11, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados

Czapek has expanded their best-selling integrated Antarctique line with the stunning open-worked Révélation The new in-house SXH7 auto-winding movement is an evolution of their SXH5, completely reworked for maximum visual impact on both sides The Révélation is also the first non-chrono Antarctique with a skeletonised dial Open-worked dials can be one of the most thrilling … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet Worn & Wound
Apr 10, 2023

Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet

Over the last few years, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf has generated a head of steam in the collector community, becoming an unlikely talking point among enthusiasts as new iterations have been released at a fast clip. These watches have a common thread in that they all pay a certain amount of respect to classic vintage designs, but Zodiac has been extremely willing to play with color, and that’s been a large part of their success with this line in the recent past. Across both limited editions and releases in the permanent collection, Zodiac has proven that they aren’t afraid to experiment, and that exclusively creating sober dive watches without much of a personality is of little interest to them. This new release, then, feels like the culmination of what we’ve seen in Zodiac’s recent strategy, with what might be their most colorful watch yet, which ironically doesn’t even have a traditional dial.  The new Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton prominently features the STP 6-15 automatic movement, plainly visible from the dial side. This is the first time we can recall Zodiac using a skeleton design in a modern context, and certainly within their dive watch line, so it speaks to their confidence in and pride in the STP caliber that they’d be willing to show it off in such a way. STP, of course, is Fossil owned movement manufacture that is a sister brand to Zodiac, and has played a large role in outfitting their recent releases with high quality, competitively priced...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton SJX Watches
Apr 10, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton

Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design.  Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph SJX Watches
Apr 3, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph

At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...

Comments 5

  1. Karam
    The Greubel Forsey architecture mentioned here is genuinely impressive from a chronometry standpoint. Those openworked layouts don't come cheap in terms of manufacturing tolerances. Curious if the article touched on how skeleton designs affect COSC certification or if there's any measurable deviation penalty versus solid movement cases.
  2. Anonymous
    Skeleton watches always feel a bit theatrical to me, like you're paying extra just to see the gears spinning. That said, there's something genuinely beautiful about the hand-pierced pocket watches from the 18th century mentioned here. Modern ones feel like they're trying too hard.
  3. WatchHusk
    The AP Royal Oak Skeleton and Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon get all the press, but honestly if you want to appreciate openworked movements without the six-figure price tag, look at what the microbrands are doing. Brands like Nezumi Studios and Raven are exploring skeleton concepts with real craftsmanship and way more soul per dollar spent.
  4. Reece
    been looking at skeleton watches and wondering about the depreciation angle. AP Royal Oak holds value pretty well historically, but does the skeleton variant retain differently than the standard model? cost of ownership over 5 years must be brutal if you're paying sport watch prices for something you mainly wear on weekends.
  5. Ravi
    Is a skeleton watch actually worth it as a first watch versus something like a standard Submariner or Speedmaster. I love the look but some of the collector stuff seems way out of budget. Should I be patient and save or is there a good entry point.

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