Revolution
Integrated-Bracelet Sport Watches · Page 26
Revolution
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s New Ceramic is the Same Hue as the Royal Oak 5402
“Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” was the colour code for the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST of 1972, and now Audemars Piguet has translated the dark blue shade into its latest ceramic. Making its debut in three Royal Oak models, including the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic is restrained and a departure from the bright, almost electric blue of the brand’s earlier blue ceramic. Initial thoughts Ceramic is a material that lends itself well to the Royal Oak design; the brushed and polished surfaces that are the trademark Royal Oak surface finishing look good with the hardness and glossiness of ceramic. The earlier bright blue ceramic used by AP was too bright in my opinion. The new dark blue hue, on the other hand, feels just nice. The downside of an all-ceramic Royal Oak is the price. The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with a matching ceramic bracelet costs almost US$90,000, double the price of the steel equivalent and almost as much as the gold model. According to AP, the cost is primarily due to the difficult in finishing the ceramic – every element of the case and bracelet is brushed or polished by hand – which is true, but it’s still expensive. The most affordable model with the new ceramic only has its bezel and pushers in ceramic ” Night blue” According to AP, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (which translates as “night blue, cloud 50”) was the code for the dark blue, almost grey, in the catalogue of Stern...
Hodinkee
Chopard’s Alpine Eagle XL Chrono: The Journey To Modern Mastery
Explore the evolution of Chopard’s Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, from its debut to the latest titanium and Rhône Blue edition. Discover how this luxury timepiece blends family legacy, cutting-edge technology, and a commitment to ecological preservation.
Time+Tide
Chopard’s high-revving Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF gets a lightweight, ceramised titanium upgrade
High beats, low grams.The post Chopard’s high-revving Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF gets a lightweight, ceramised titanium upgrade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The battle for thinness rages on with Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world’s new thinnest tourbillon watch (live pics + video)
How thin is too thin? Bulgari continues to claim horological superlatives with the Octo Finissimo line.The post The battle for thinness rages on with Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world’s new thinnest tourbillon watch (live pics + video) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Audemars Piguet’s Newest Ceramic Royal Oaks In The Brand’s Historic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”
The blue that former CEO François-Henry Bennahmias always wanted is finally here and it's really freaking good.
SJX Watches
Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement in the 1816
A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old. Initial thoughts Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821. Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce. The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior. Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an ...
Monochrome
Trends - Bracelets Were Probably the Stars of the Show during the Geneva Watch Week
With the massive return in popularity of integrated bracelet watches in the past few years, metal bracelets have made a sensational comeback, to the point where these are no longer exclusive to sports watches. But how annoying is it to see a brilliantly designed watch, on which the brand has taken great attention to detail […]
Worn & Wound
A New, Record Breaking, Bulgari Tourbillon
You have to give it up for Piaget. When they introduced the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon last year, they made a hell of a play for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. At 2.0mm, that watch was (as most ultra-thin watches are) inconceivably thin. I have to imagine that, when Piaget introduced that watch last year, they felt pretty good about holding onto the record for at least a while but, as these things go, eventually, Bulgari has to have its say in the matter. A year later, we have Bulgari’s seemingly inevitable response: The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At just 1.85mm thick, Bulgari’s latest Ultra-Thin masterpiece represents their 10th world record for thinness in watchmaking and reunites Bulgari with a record it has held on and off since 2014 - which, by way of comparison, was a record they had previously held with watches measuring 5mm and 3.95mm thick. Hard to imagine it, but each of those now seems downright chunky by comparison. There’s a good reason why you often see watches like this held up next to credit cards: Devoid of context, it’s almost impossible for your brain to compute just how little three-dimensional space these watches take up. Bulgari has achieved this stupendously mind-blowing level of thinness by applying the design and construction techniques introduced with the 1.80mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra and the 1.70mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. Most notably, Bulgari has integrated the case and movement of the Octo Finissimo Ultra ...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Going Head-To-Head With Two New IWC Ingenieurs In Steel And Black Ceramic
One editor takes the "F1" film release, the other takes the newest ceramic case from IWC. You choose which comes out on top.
Fratello
I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Although I became a big Depeche Mode fan later, the most annoying song of the 1980s was “Just Can’t Get Enough.” The overly simple melody by the English electronic band haunted me when it played on the radio and when it wasn’t on. That simple song, with its sharp synthesizer sounds, square and steady disco […] Visit I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces a New, Smaller BR-05 36MM
Twenty years after the release of the Bell & Ross BR-01, which first showcased the square case shape and bold legibility that would become their aesthetic hallmarks, the Franco-Swiss brand is celebrating with new iterations of their most popular and recognizable watches. Among these new editions are four versions of the BR-05 36mm, which gives the model a smaller size and new dial colorways. The most noticeable update to the BR-05 is right there in its name-the smaller and thinner satin-polished steel case measures at 36mm in diameter and 8.5mm in thickness, giving it significantly less heft than the previous 40, 41, and 42mm models. Four screws ensure that the upper section of the case is hermetically sealed to the bottom, and give the iconic rounded square extra urban-industrial character. An integrated bracelet furthers the watch’s sporty-yet-elegant silhouette, secured by a folding satin-finished buckle. A screw-down crown flanked by guards and emblazoned with the Bell & Ross ampersand logo ensures 100 meters of water resistance, while a Caliber BR-CAL.329 automatic movement ticks away inside, maintaining a 54-hour power reserve. Each of the four new models features identical applique numerals and indexes, and skeletonised hour and minute hands (all filled with white Super-LumiNova X1). However, each dial varies in both color and material, all of which lean towards chic-versatility (yes, I did make that phrase up), but maintain a cohesive aesthetic. The first o...
Monochrome
Introducing - A Trilogy of Audemars Piguet Models Dressed in new “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Ceramic
Audemars Piguet recreates a colour intimately associated with its first Royal Oak model of 1972. Although the colour described as “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” has appeared on many dials, it has never been replicated in high-tech ceramic. Inspired by the clear night skies of the Vallée de Joux, this darker tone of blue ceramic is […]
SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm
A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...
Monochrome
First Look - The Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph, a Tribute to the Famous Compteur de Tierces
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, the 1816 Chronograph blends a modern integrated bracelet design with more traditional elements drawn from Louis Moinet‘s classic repertoire, in particular from the fascinating and remarkable Compteur de Tierces, one of the precursors of the modern chronograph. Powered by an appealing, traditional hand-wound chronograph movement, this new Louis Moinet […]
Time+Tide
The innovative Tonda PF Chrono Ultra-Cermet is a dark take on Parmigiani Fleurier minimalism
As hard as ceramic, as durable as metal, and a first in watchmaking.The post The innovative Tonda PF Chrono Ultra-Cermet is a dark take on Parmigiani Fleurier minimalism appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
IWC’s Ingenieur collection has been slated for growth this year, welcoming new sizes, materials, and complications. Representing the most compact member of the family to date, the new 35mm Ingenieur is a smart move to conquer more wrist sizes in the ever-expanding unisex sector. Presented in three variants, the smallest descendants of Gérald Genta’s design […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Now in Ice Blue
The Alpine Eagle draws inspiration from the 1980s St. Moritz series, Chopard’s take on the then-trending luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet-a trend that has regained momentum. The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon joined the collection in 2022, following the introduction of the chronograph and high-frequency models. While there’s always room to discuss influences […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Baume & Mercier Riviera Chronograph 41mm Series
Long before the Nautilus, Ingenieur, or the 222, Baume & Mercier introduced its take on the emerging luxury sports watch trend with the Riviera in 1973 – just a year after Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak. Over the decades, the Riviera saw highs and lows, at times fading into obscurity, only to be revived with a […]
Monochrome
First Look - The More Compact Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronograph No-Date 40mm Mineral Blue
Three years ago, Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled its sophisticated Tonda PF luxury sports watch collection. Still bearing traits from the original Tonda designed by Michel Parmigiani, the collection debuted with four models, including the 42mm Tonda PF Chronograph. The new Tonda PF Chronograph, presented during Watches & Wonders 2025, comes in a more compact 40mm case […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a remarkably impressive watch. It’s a tourbillon with a total thickness of just 1.85mm. This makes it the thinnest tourbillon-equipped timepiece ever. Let’s take a look. Bvlgari has had remarkable success with its Octo Finissimo line. The brand rightly points out that its designs have received more than […] Visit Introducing: The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca
Not all introduction articles around Watches and Wonders 2025 need to be overly complicated. This will be a particularly simple one. Would you like to be done and dusted in a single sentence? Fine! Parmigiani released a green version of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. That’s it! You can jump to the next article to […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold, Now with Solid Gold Case & Bracelet
The Odysseus disembarked at A. Lange & Söhne in 2019, the Saxon brand’s interpretation of a luxury steel sports watch with a personality all its own. Not only was it the first steel model for the brand, but it was also the first model with 120m water-resistance, the first model with a metallic integrated bracelet, […]
Worn & Wound
IWC Expands the Ingenieur Collection
It’s deja vu all over again for IWC. Two years ago at Watches & Wonders, the brand debuted, at long last, and after a great deal of anticipation and speculation, a new version of the Ingenieur. The new Ingenieur was effectively the sole focus of the brand’s Watches & Wonders output in 2023 – a fact that underscored the importance of the release for the brand. It was met, at the show, with quite a bit of acclaim. To put it on your wrist and to see and feel the finishing of the case and bracelet in person revealed a watch that was designed to compete with the likes of the Royal Oak and Overseas. Ambitious, perhaps, but not crazy. That said, IWC (and the rest of the watch community) have always known that if the brand was going to offer a true lower priced alternative to those integrated bracelet sports watches, they’d need to fill out the collection with some additional options. And that’s exactly what IWC has done at this year’s Watches & Wonders, dropping a dizzying array of new Ingenieurs in new materials, sizes, and with new complications. Here we’ll focus on some of the obvious standouts. First, an Ingenieur that has always seemed like one that was missing from the collection: a variant in full ceramic. The Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic is exactly what it says on the proverbial tin. This is a slightly larger version of the Ingenieur released a few years back with a modern 42mm case, but much of that increased size is hidden by the deep black to...
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