Time+Tide
Yes, a certain Gérald Genta is on this list, but he's not the only notable watch designer.The post Five of the most influential watch designers and their creations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Plus a well-executed IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, and a British Racing Green Breitling Bentley Premier.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin releases a new model of their Overseas Quartz for the ladies in 18k 5N pink gold with a translucent denim blue lacquered dial.
Hodinkee
A new Overseas designed for more wrists that feels like the future (and the past) of midsized watches.
SJX Watches
Originally presented in 2012 to that Year of the Dragon – and reputedly priced at over US$3 million at the time – the Parmigiani Le Dragon et la Perle du Savoir has been restored just in time for this Year of the Dragon that soon begins in February 2024. Now renamed Tempus Fugit, the automaton made up of a dragon chasing a flaming pearl, a traditional motif in Chinese culture. Initial thoughts This exemplifies Parmigiani’s mastery of ultra-high-end automatons and clocks that were a key part of its offerings in the 1990s. During that period, only Parmigiani and Gerald Genta specialised in such extraordinary creations. Although this was produced in 2012, it certainly evokes the sculptural automaton clocks of that earlier period. Such extravagant automatons clocks are rare today – only Van Cleef & Arpels regularly creates such one-offs now – but are undeniably impressive. Like its peers, the dragon automaton combines goldsmithing, gem-setting, automata construction, and of course clockmaking, all techniques mastered by Parmigiani thanks to its restoration department, which was historically the best in Switzerland. Naturally, the brand’s affordable and relatively more ordinary wristwatch offerings don’t possess the same extravagant craft, but it is good to know the scope of the brand’s capabilities. The dragon chasing a pearl A familiar motif in Chinese folklore, the dragon chasing a flaming pearl represents the pursuit of wisdom, prosperity, or power. Here it ...
Revolution
Hodinkee
Plus a precious Jacquet Droz and a high-beat two-tone Zenith Chronomaster El Primero.
Hodinkee
Kendrick Lamar and some big auction results have me seeing shapes and complications again.
Time+Tide
Steel may be the go-to material for a luxe sports watch, but titanium just makes sense, doesn't it?The post The IWC Ingenieur Titanium is Genta in the 21st century appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's time to tackle one of the most popular categories of watches of the modern era: the stainless steel luxury sport watch. We've got three takes, and they're going head-to-head-to-head.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this week’s installment of our ongoing “3 for 5k” series, reader Christopher Lee presents a collection that incorporates two watches he personally owns, and one that might be entering his collection soon. These three watches cover a lot of horological ground, from a classic Swiss diver, to the most tech-forward watch in Seiko’s catalog. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Oris Aquis – $2,400 When setting out to name three watches for $5k, I knew I wanted to have at least one dive watch. It was the style of watch that first got me hooked on the hobby and in my opinion, every collection should have one. To me, the Oris Aquis has qualities that make it extremely desirable. Personally, I own the Caliber 400 model, but for the purposes of this list I will refer to the Sellita powered version. First off, the Aquis has great build quality and finish. The watch feels substantial in the hand and features 300m of water resistance. Furthermore, the transitions from polished surfaces to brushed are razor sharp. The head of the watch feels extremely solid with crown guards that are screwed onto it, which for me is a purposeful nod towards the longevity of the case. The bezel and its ceramic insert feel great to use with its snappy ratcheting feedback. Every set of links on the integrated bracelet features polished outer links and full articulation, contributing to a comfortab...
Monochrome
In 2012, Chopard made waves with the introduction of the L.U.C 8HF, featuring the groundbreaking L.U.C 01.06-L calibre with a silicon escapement, oscillating at an impressive 8Hz (57,600 vibrations/hour), double the speed of most mechanical movements. Notably, it became the first high-frequency calibre to receive chronometer certification, marking a significant milestone. Encouraged by this success, […]
Time+Tide
Ultra-thin and ultra-luxe, but why does it exist?The post Who the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days is really for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Our Style Editor makes a case for the return of the Offshore and what its success in the '00s can teach us about pushing watch design forward in 2024.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Ace Jewelers, based in Amsterdam, has carved out a reputation for themselves as creators of some of the best limited edition collaborations between watch brands and retail partners. Yes, this is a category that has been growing steadily over the years, but it’s worth pointing at that Ace has been at it for a long time, well before the watch market reached the state of collab hysteria that we currently find ourselves in. Many collectors are probably aware of their regular limited releases with Nomos (they’ve done six, and they always sell out very quickly) but they’ve expanded their portfolio this year, introducing collaborations with Elka and Nivada. Their most recent LE introduces another new brand into the fold, Frederique Constant, with a version of their Highlife Worldtimer that draws on aesthetic cues established in earlier Ace releases. The Highlife Worldtimer remains one of the more compelling Frederique Constant references. The Highlife platform feels refreshingly contemporary (even though it’s based on 1970s design cues) compared to what we often think of when we picture a Frederique Constant in the mind’s eye. If your impression of the brand is that of a maker of watches in a more classical, dressier, and simply old-fashioned style, than the Highlife, a sleek integrated bracelet sports watch, is almost transgressive. And it’s proven to be a worthy canvas for Frederique Constant’s not-so-secret weapon: affordable complications. The Worldtimer, of c...
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the year was how predictable much of it was. We saw more sports watches with integrated bracelets and more time-only watches with ostensibly artisanal decoration. Paradoxically, most of the notable surprises came from establishment marques that would ordinarily be predictable. Amongst them are the Rolex Perpetual 1908 and Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time ref. 5224R, both thoughtful creations that are typical for their respective brands. Here are our picks for the year’s best surprises in watchmaking. Brandon Moore Technical Contributor An unexpected, but user-friendly complicated watch that debuted this year is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R, a simple dual time watch with a twist: both time zones are indicated on a 24-hour dial, eliminating the need for an auxiliary day-night indicator. Not only is the functionality appealing, but the aesthetic and ergonomic execution is done well. While 42 mm may seem large for a Calatrava, the watch is visually smaller thanks to its abundant use of applied markers on the dial and stepped case and lugs. Moreover, and importantly, it is different for Patek Philippe, which is notable since the brand usually errs on the side of the tried and tested. Who would have thought Patek Philippe would remake the Chronometro Gondolo into a wristwatch? Richard Lee Technical Editor I was surprised when I first saw the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref....
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...
Quill & Pad
To Alexey Kutkovoy's overview of complicated Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores (ROO), here is a very special combination of complications: chronograph and a tourbillon.
Time+Tide
This video is a must-watch for any Royal Oak Offshore fans, as it breaks down the role of the collection and the crazy places it's been. The post We explore the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore models that prove the collection is AP’s creative playground appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Over the past couple of years, the luxury sports watch segment has exploded in popularity. Fueled by a demand for seemingly impossible-to-get watches like the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, people started to look elsewhere. Many brands and even some independent watchmakers presented their own spin on the concept, resulting in a wide range of […]
Hodinkee
A watch with real style, serious technical credentials, and a healthy dose of Italian charm. Who says you can't have it all?
Quill & Pad
The 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore (ROO) is an excellent time to think seriously about how good this watch is as a collector’s item. An essential aspect of this subject is mechanical watches with complications.
Hodinkee
Talking Genta, big watches during the '00s, and color coordinated calendars at Art Basel Miami.
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