Monochrome
Arnold & Son’s UTTE – Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement – debuted at Baselworld 2013, powered by the ultra-thin 2.97mm hand-wound calibre A&S8200. Recognised as the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch, the title was stolen from Arnold & Son just one year later with Bulgari’s 1.95mm Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. Still remarkably thin, Arnold & Son’s Ultrathin Tourbillon […]
Worn & Wound
While the watch industry braces for Watches & Wonders next week and anticipates a flurry of new releases to discuss that will take us through the next several months of watch discourse, today is actually the day that many collectors and enthusiasts have been waiting for for years: the debut of new watches from Universal Geneve. When it was announced that the brand would be formally relaunched by Georges Kern back in December of 2023, speculation began immediately as to what we would eventually see. Little tidbits have come out in dribs and drabs over the last two years, but today the watch community finally gets a look at what Universal Geneve will be in the modern era, at least to start. A few things are very apparent from the outset. This is a big swing on the part of Kern and others steering the ship at Universal. They could have gone small, and introduced a one or two references to reintroduce the brand to the community slowly, but instead they’ve come out o the gate with nearly 40 SKUs, with prices ranging from a relatively modest $14,000 all the way up to $320,000 for an elaborate jewelry focused Cabriolet (and that’s the only elaborate, jewelry focused piece). The other thing that’s clear is that the launch feels focused on the Polerouter, a Gerald Genta design that is likely the most well known watch under the broader Universal Geneve banner. It got the reference book treatment a few years back, and, once upon a time, was one of the most frequently recommen...
SJX Watches
Citizen continues to celebrate five decades of solar-powered watchmaking with the limited-edition Photon, a sleek titanium watch that combines the brand’s signature technologies, namely Eco-Drive and Super Titanium, in an attractive and affordable package. Initial thoughts In the age of low-cost micro-brands and connected smartwatches, it’s never been harder to stand out with a relatively simple quartz watch. Citizen, however, is more than up to the challenge, and is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its industry-leading Eco-Drive technology with a slate of new models that includes the Photon. The Photon embodies Citizen’s strengths, with a solar-powered quartz movement and durable Super Titanium case, which benefits from the brand’s leading position in the field of scratch-resistant surface coatings. The result is an affordable and appealing pair of integrated bracelet sport watches with a distinctive case shape and multi-layered dial. Unlimited energy Citizen didn’t invent the solar-powered watch - that honour goes to the Synchronar 2100 - but it quickly took the lead in bringing this technology to maturity. The Japanese titan has never looked back, and today licenses its category-leading Eco-Drive technology to brands like TAG Heuer. To generate electricity from light, the engineers at Citizen have developed a number of semi-opaque dial materials over the years. For the Photon, Citizen has opted for a multi-layer dial with overlapping slits, creating a d...
Hodinkee
Federico Ziviani on why Gerald Charles is producing pricey Swiss-made watches based on designs from the latter end of the master designer's career.
Monochrome
Two years ago, Credor, the higher-end and classic side of the Seiko Watch Corporation, unveiled a very special watch based on the Locomotive concept. This watch, once designed by no other than Gerald Genta, was first presented in 1979, before coming back in a modernised and limited version for the brand’s 50th anniversary in 2024. […]
Monochrome
Introduced last year, the Pulse line is a departure from the classical regulator watches for which Chronoswiss became known in the 1980s. The collection keeps the key design elements such as the oversized onion crown, the coin-edge bezel, and the layered dial construction, but offers a contemporary case and an integrated bracelet. Just ahead of Watches […]
Monochrome
Founded in 1974, Credor is Seiko’s high-end brand created to showcase Japanese haute horlogerie, artistic finishing and ultra-thin watchmaking. Originally exclusive to Japan, Credor began its international expansion in 2024 with the launch of the Locomotive model, a watch originally designed by Genta, and will consolidate its position as it will soon be exhibited at […]
Monochrome
Gerald Charles is a name that traces back to the legendary Gérald Genta, widely regarded as one of the most influential modern watch designers. While his eponymous brand, Gerald Genta, was sold to Bulgari in 2000, Genta himself soon embarked on a new chapter, founding Gérald Charles as a more personal expression of his design philosophy. In 2011, […]
Monochrome
Guido Terreni, the CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier since 2021, has focused on developing the Tonda PF collection, a refined luxury sports watch characterised by understated elegance and fine craftsmanship. A sportier counterpart to the main Tonda PF line, the Tonda PF Sport was launched in 2023 with automatic and chronograph models on integrated rubber straps. With […]
SJX Watches
Omega is reviving one of its classics with the Constellation Observatory, a tribute to the manufacture’s illustrious past. The new Constellation collection returns to the “pie pan” dial that Omega devotees have championed for years, and represents a strong bid from the Bienne-based manufacture to reassert itself in the market for high-end dress watches. The 21st century Constellation “Pie Pan” adopts many aesthetic cues of the vintage original, made during Omega’s heyday in the mid-20th century, but is resolutely a modern-day Omega wristwatch in quality and technology. From solid gold dials to proprietary alloys to a latest-generation movement, the Constellation Observatory has it all. The new Omega Constellation Observatory collection. Initial thoughts Omega’s recent efforts in dress-watch chronometers have been less cohesive and arguably less successful than the competition. The Constellation Manhattan with its integrated bracelet design differs from what most expect from a dress watch, while the De Ville line is handsome enough, but lacking the distinctiveness that serious dress watch collectors expect. In contrast, the Constellation Observatory is a serious effort that captures much of the magic of one of Omega’s most beloved historical designs, namely the Constellations of the 1950s and 1960s. The look is not too dissimilar from last year’s Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina, limited edition that met with commercial and critical success. With the Obser...
Monochrome
The BR-05 was introduced in 2019 in 40mm as Bell & Ross’s answer to the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch trend, translating the BR-01’s cockpit instrument looks into a more contemporary, everyday design. In tune with contemporary trends for more compact, unisex diameters, Bell & Ross presented a 36mm version in 2025. The latest BR-05 […]
WatchAdvice
Is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time the ultimate luxury travel watch? We went hands-on to find out! What We Love The versatility of the piece, being a sports watch that dresses up or down Ease of use of the Dual Time function and quick set date The brushed silver dial really stands out with an easy-to-read layout. What We Don’t The watch can wear on the larger side, especially on the bracelet The bezel is prone to surface marks, like most polished metal bezels The strap thickness at the base tends to flare out a little, depending on your wrist shape and size Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 This article was originally published as Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Review: Is It The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch? There’s something special about a watch that can seamlessly blend luxury with everyday practicality – and that’s exactly what Vacheron Constantin has achieved with the Overseas Dual Time. As part of the brand’s legendary Overseas collection, this piece is designed for those who appreciate fine watchmaking but also need something versatile enough to handle life on the move. With its sporty yet sophisticated aesthetic, an in-house movement built for precision, and a clever dual-time function that makes tracking multiple time zones effortless, the Overseas Dual Time is a serious contender for the ultimate travel watch, which for a guy who has a Rolex GMT “Batgirl” as ...
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Some cityscapes have more iconic skylines than others, but it’s hard to argue that Tokyo’s massive metropolitan sprawl hasn’t inspired decades of media, art, and yes, watches. Cyberpunk anime and JRPGs aside, it’s one of the most recognizable urban landscapes in the world, and its neon-drenched shopping districts, blend of modernist and classical architecture, and towering skyscrapers make an excellent canvas. Enter Seiko’s new King Seiko VANAC models, taking design inspiration directly from Tokyo’s skyline, and introducing three new dial colors. Each of the new VANAC models is housed in a sporty 41mm case (45.1mm lug-to-lug) with an integrated bracelet. It’s a familiar shape for King Seiko models, but it maintains that classy, versatile outline without appearing too outdated. It’s an almost ‘70s or ‘80s look, despite the larger, modern dimensions, and suits the dial design well; the indices and squared-off hands have an Art Deco look, which pairs nicely with the angular screw-down crown and geometric lines of the case. The seconds hand in particular, finished in silver to match the stainless steel case, has a delicate, skeleton “v” shape as a counterweight at the top end, which adds a flair of elegance to the design. A date window at 3 o’clock helps the dial maintain a balanced look, and the layered radial pattern of the minute track, and horizontal line texture of the dial does bring to mind the organized chaos of Tokyo’s “vast horizon”....
Time+Tide
The Tedoro Harmony 39 Sarab has elements that collectors love: a stone dial, an integrated bracelet, a GMT complication – and just $785.The post A GMT with a difference, Tedoro unveils its limited edition, mother-of-pearl Harmony 39 Sarab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet expands its stone‑dial lineup with the new Royal Oak Self-Winding 37 mm and 41 mm in yellow‑gold featuring malachite dials, continuing the brand’s cautious re-exploration of trendy stone dials. Initial thoughts Last month Bad Bunny, the most-streamed musician in the western hemisphere, took the field for the Super Bowl LX halftime show wearing this yellow gold Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm. A design as recognisable as any in watchmaking, worn on the wrist of the “King of Latin Trap” in front of over a hundred million viewers - a significant marketing coup for Audemars Piguet. It was also an implicit endorsement from Bad Bunny’s stylist Storm Pablo, who procured the watch within days of its announcement. Bad Bunny during the Apple Music Super Bowl LX halftime show. Image – Apple Pricing remains surprisingly reasonable, with the 37 mm pegged to the same price as the turquoise-dialled sibling from a few years ago, while the 41 mm model is priced just 4% higher than a regular production Royal Oak in pink gold. That’s a large step up in absolute terms, but that comes with the (price) territory. It is important to point out that despite the premiums brands often attach to stone dials, most are not particularly expensive to make. When it comes to malachite, the raw material cost is negligible, with African mines in and around the Copperbelt producing gemstone-quality malachite by the literal ton. Audemars Piguet made the right choice by avoiding t...
Monochrome
Released about a year ago, the King Seiko Vanac collection was quite a surprise and, in all fairness, caused some discussions. Based on bold designs from the 1970s, the name Vanac is far from new and was revamped in a sports watch with an integrated bracelet and sharp case, powered by a high-end movement derived […]
SJX Watches
One of Seiko’s recent bestsellers was last year’s King Seiko Vanac, a watch inspired by a 1970s model but distinct on its own. Originally available only in steel, the line-up now grows to include the King Seiko Vanac in titanium. While retaining the stylistic and mechanical features of the steel original, the new Vanac in titanium is noticeably lighter in weight, an especially appealing upgrade given the largish case and integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts I liked the original Vanac of 2025, though I thought a marginally smaller case would have suited the retro style better. And I thought it would have been ideal in titanium. So the new model in titanium is arguably the ideal Vanac. It’s the same size, but different in tactile feel due to the lightness. Given the size, the lightweight alloy arguably works better than steel. Despite the Vanac being a mid-range watch, Seiko’s excellent case treatment across prices and alloys means the multiple planes of the facetted case are finished well, as good as, but probably better than, most titanium watches in this price segment. The titanium models are a little less funky in terms of dial colours, though the standout metallic purple dial does make its way into the titanium case. The dial does, however, get a subtle upgrade with a novel motif that combines horizontal and radial fluting for an intriguing visual effect. The movement stays the same. This gets the brand’s top-of-the-line mid-range movement, the cal. 8L45, an ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Review of the Bausele Elemental-an Australian-designed integrated bracelet watch that blends beach-inspired details for under $1,000.
Fratello
The 150 Heritage pocket watch, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, and the skeletonized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar might have stolen most of the limelight when Audemars Piguet presented many novelties in January. Nevertheless, the pieces I was probably most curious to see and try on were a series of three tool watches. Well, these are […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time to sit down with a cup of coffee for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head with two gold Vacheron Constantin watches. Jorg’s pick is the yellow gold Historiques 222, which came out in 2024 and garnered much praise for reviving the brand’s 1977 classic. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs. Overseas Self-Winding to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
In 2025, IWC Schaffhausen introduced a first for the Ingenieur collection, unveiling three new models in a compact 35mm case size. For this hands-on review, I had the chance to spend some time with one of my favourite pieces from the new lineup. Read on to find out why it left such a lasting impression! What We Love: 35mm case size wears exceptionally well Gold toned grid patterned dial works beautifully with an 18k 5N gold case Wrist prescence of the watch is undeniable What We Don’t: Non-skeletonised rotor 42-hour power reserve can be slightly low by modern standards. With an open case back, this 35mm Ingenieur doesn’t have an anti-magnetic soft iron cage like older Ingenieurs. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Inspired by Gérald Genta’s iconic 1970s Ingenieur SL design, the 35mm Ingenieur timepieces retain the signature elements that define the original collection, from the integrated bracelet to the distinctive grid dial and the five-screw bezel, now perfectly re-proportioned into a smaller, more wearable format! IWC Schaffhausen has several stand-out collections from past to present, with one of the most influential in shaping the brand being their Pilot’s collections. Then we also have the Portugieser, which played a pivotal role in shaping IWC’s identity with its elegant design and technical watchmaking. Alongside these two iconic collections sits the Ingenieur. 1955 IWC Ingenieur Ref....
Time+Tide
The new Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges reminds a perhaps Laureato-focused audience what the brand was really built on.The post Girard-Perregaux emphasises centuries of in-house mastery with its new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
When we look back to mid-century watchmaking, some of the industry’s most iconic designs were originally conceived as essential, life-saving instruments. The Rolex Submariner, for example, was originally created for professional divers working in cold, deep waters while breathing compressed air. The Omega Speedmaster was a vital analog calculator for astronauts traveling through the vacuum of space. The Rolex Explorer is another example, forged to survive the brutal, oxygen-deprived ascent of the Himalayas. These tool watches were designed with a clear purpose and were built to endure knocks, scrapes, and harsh conditions without missing a beat. Fast forward to today, and while modern iterations are undeniably better engineered than their vintage ancestors, boasting superior metallurgy and tighter tolerances, their exorbitant price tags have put some collectors off regular, daily use. A modern steel sports watch can easily demand anywhere from $6,000 to well over $15,000 at retail, and that’s assuming you have the willpower to ensure the waitlists to acquire one. And while some collectors are happy to invest that kind of money, others are on the lookout for something more accessible. Enter Traska watches. This psychological friction has spawned a new enthusiast community for the ultimate Everyday Carry (EDC) watch, or the “go-anywhere, do-anything” (GADA) watch. Many collectors today are looking for a watch that slides effortlessly under a tailored cuff during a hi...
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