Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A Look At Gérald Genta’s 'Postmodern' Period
How the legendary designer redefined taste under his own brand name.
Integrated-Bracelet Sport Watches · Page 51
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Speake Marin’s New Openworked Sandblasted Ti is a Sign that the Early 2000s Indie Favorite is in the Midst of a Comeback
Don’t look now, but it appears that one of the great names of early 2000s independent watchmaking is back with their feet under them, fully invested in making interesting and beautiful watches. Speake Marin, founded by Peter Speake-Marin in 2002, was one of those gateway brands for many collectors coming of age at around the time the brand got its start, thanks in no small part to the founder being one of the most well liked and enthusiastic spokespeople not only for their own brand, but for indie watchmaking in general, of that era. Speake Marin (the brand) has had some ups and downs since the departure of its founder in 2017, but recent efforts like the Dual Time (in a host of festive colors) and the Ripples (their oddly named but quite striking entry in the integrated bracelet sports watch genre) have garnered more attention than the brand has seen in quite some time. Their most recent release, the Openworked Sandblasted Ti. The One & Two Openworked line has become a signature in the larger Speake Marin catalog, consisting of, well, evocatively openworked dials that show off some seriously high level manufacturing. They also do a great job of calling attention to the intricately finished movements and the unusual geometry and layout of Speake Marin watches, which is the underlying factor in what makes this watch so striking. The running seconds between 1:00 and 2:00 is, of course, deeply unusual, as is the visible barrel from the dial side with an engraving of the bra...
Quill & Pad
30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver’s Editions: Was Gérald Genta’s Diving Inspiration Finally Realized?
2023 marks the thirtieth anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore collection. Here Alexey Kutkovoy look at the ROO Diver watches, perhaps the most impressive and important non-chronograph design in the Offshore collection.
Worn & Wound
Opinion: What Makes a Great Bracelet?
We talk about them all the time, but they’re often the component of a watch that is least examined. The bracelet, whether attached to a sports watch, a dress watch, or something in between, can make or break how a watch actually wears on the wrist, and impact the overall look of a watch dramatically. And when it comes to bracelets, collectors and enthusiasts are never short on strong opinions – we all have things we love and hate, and it goes way beyond whether you prefer an Oyster or a Jubilee. Today, members of the Worn & Wound team weigh in on the question: what makes a great bracelet? Be sure to let us know what you think in the comments below. Zach Kazan The question of “What makes a great bracelet?” is deceptive in its complexity. There are a variety of factors you might consider and weight as you evaluate a bracelet. Comfort and appearance, of course, are chief among them. But there’s also the idea of durability, and adjustability, and the overall cohesion of the bracelet design with other elements of the watch. I’d argue, for example, that the classic Seamaster bracelet is nice looking on its own, but perhaps not suited to the watch it’s paired with. The fact is, I prefer wearing my watches on bracelets, particularly when they are conceived that way. A Rolex sports watch on a strap, for instance, is something I’ll never fully get behind. At a time when integrated bracelet sports watches are at the height of their popularity, there’s no sho...
Quill & Pad
6 Steel Sports Watch Options that are Both (Relatively) Affordable and Definitely Obtainable - Reprise
Unless you have been residing under a large rock in recent years, you are most probably (and perhaps quite painfully) aware that the classic steel sports watches designed by Gérald Genta for Audemars Piguet (Royal Oak) and Patek Philippe (Nautilus) are both beyond the financial reach of most people and in many cases simply not available even if you can afford them. Here Colin Alexander Smith shares six more affordable and more available sports watches that have caught his eye over the last few years.
Quill & Pad
30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Vintage and Classic Car Rally Models
In this article, Alexey Kutkovoy continues to look back at the limited and special editions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore collection, which turned 30 in 2023. Here he explores another side of ROO's history: watches dedicated to vintage and classic car rallies.
Time+Tide
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm brings back two-tone
Blending rose gold with guilloché is back into the Parmigiani Fleurier catalogue with the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm.The post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm brings back two-tone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour
Louis Vuitton, along with its watchmaking arm La Fabrique du Temps, redefines the Tambour, as it becomes the brand's first integrated bracelet sports watch.
Quill & Pad
Are You Crazy? You’d Pay How Much for a Watch? - Reprise
Here is an entertaining little story about John Keil, his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and a bunch of guys around a poker table – a story he's sure many watch guys and gals can relate to.
Time+Tide
Chopard goes all Frank Sinatra with their blue-eyed new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Maritime Blue
A watch Ol' Blue Eyes would definitely approve of.The post Chopard goes all Frank Sinatra with their blue-eyed new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Maritime Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces the Twelve Halo, a Gold Accented and Minimal Take on their Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch
Christopher Ward seems to have gotten some divine intervention with the latest release of theirs, the Twelve Halo. Based on the sporty series that boasts a dodecagonal (that’s 12-sided for those of you who failed geometry, like me) case, the Halo has a luxurious update with a ring of gold around the dial. The gold itself is the perfect accent against the otherwise plain appearance of the watch, showing that simple is sometimes the best. Contrasting against the brushed steel case, the 18-karat gold is a bit of mixed-metal done right. While the choice of either a silver or black dial only adds to the simplicity of the overall offering, meaning nothing is detracting from the Halo’s minimalism. Whether one is picking the silver or black dial, you’re treated to small, intentional design features which tie the whole thing together. Gone is a distracting day-date, indices, or numbers and what you’re left with is a lumed handset and a rose gold logo. While I shudder at the term, one can’t deny that this restraint is quiet luxury in its truest form. Coming in at just 36mm, the Twelve Halo is suitable for both men and women. The exhibition back lets one see the Sellita SW 200-1 automatic movement in action. Both models are available on an integrated steel bracelet with a price tag of $2,555. The Twelve Halo is available now via the Christopher Ward website, with delivery expected in December. Christopher Ward Images from this post: The post Christopher Ward Introduces the ...
Quill & Pad
30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Celebrity Collaborations
In this fourth article commemorating the 30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (following: 4 New 2023 Releases, Here Come ‘The Beasts’, and ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers), here is the topic that initially interested Alexey Kutkovoy the most, i.e. the annals of the Royal Oak Offshore limited and special editions.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in Rose Gold
Something I think about quite a bit in this hobby is the idea that the watches we wear are often just part of a costume that we’re presenting to the outside world. They exist as aspirational symbols of what we’d like our life to be. There’s a cosplay aspect to wearing certain watches that I’m never quite able to shake, even watches I love. I wear, on most days, either a pilot’s watch or a diver, and I don’t fly a plane and I don’t even really like to swim. I wear these watches because I genuinely enjoy them as watches, but I’d be lying if a small part of me didn’t feel like a pretender, a guy asking himself who he thinks he’s kidding with this super tactical pilot’s instrument strapped to his wrist. I’ve never felt that feeling more acutely than in my time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in rose gold. This watch, let’s just say, is not in my normal wheelhouse. While I appreciate it aesthetically (in fact, I find it quite beautiful) it’s not the kind of thing I’d choose to wear. But more than that, this watch is part of a micro-genre of watches that is very specific, one that I’m fascinated by, but am personally so far removed from, I am legitimately probably closer to the pilot walking into the US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program than I am the dude who this watch was made for. The Tonda PF Sport Auto is part of a class of watches I think of as “leisure sport,” with a heavy emphasis on the leisure. Th...
Worn & Wound
A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month
If you think IWC has been catching their breath after reimagining the Ingenieur earlier this year, think again. The Schaffhausen-based brand has been busy dishing out high end watches over the last month – headlined by the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler – as well as heavy hitters through partnerships with automotive powerhouses. From complications to composite materials, there’s a lot to dig into here. Travel back to winter 2008 for a moment. The global economy is still roiled in recession, the federal funds rate is zero, and IWC marches out one of the rarest and most distinctive references ever: the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Markus Bühler (Ref. 5003). Named after famed IWC apprentice Markus Bühler, the watch featured airplane turbines on the dial and also on its movement. A few years earlier, Bühler’s concept had won the top prize at the Prix IFHH de l’Horlogerie (now known as the Concours IHC), and IWC only made a limited run of twelve pieces. A decade and a half later we meet its successor, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler. It’s platinum, it’s 43mm, and it’s a real unit. True to form, the turbine is back but has now been integrated into a flying (haha) tourbillon. IWC has crafted the turbine blades from a titanium alloy for weight saving and even repurposed its upper cage as the regulator. The hairspring is attached to one of the blades, allowing a watchmaker to adjust the zero crossing of the balance simply by ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Takes A Very Diplomatic Approach With Diamonds For The Girls And The Boys In 34, And 39mm (Live Pics)
AP has introduced a whole host of new gem-set Royal Oaks. Choose your fighter!
Quill & Pad
Talking Watches and Guitars with the Legendary John McLaughlin: From Miles Davis to Mahavishnu and Only Watch - Reprise
After Colin Alexander Smith noticed John McLaughlin wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in live footage from the 1990s along with various other interesting timepieces, he somewhat cheekily asked him for an interview to discuss his watches rather than his music or his guitars, to which he kindly agreed. Not surprisingly they ended up discussing all three in this riveting interview spanning decades' worth of music, stories, and timepieces.
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Tahitian Dial Rolex Daytona, A Hard-To-Find Omega CK 859, And The Always Stunning Vacheron Constantin Overseas Blue Dial
Plus, a PanoMaticLunar from Glashütte Original and the oddball charm of the Tudor Iconaut.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Manime La Fidele
It takes a certain courage and determination to start a watch brand. One has to articulate his or her vision into three-dimensional, complex, and mechanical objects. I sometimes struggle to transfer thoughts and ideas about watches to paper, let alone deal with prototypes, source components, and market the final product. In order to get our attention, one must also offer something that is familiar while being different, well-made but not too expensive. If the watch looks too much like something we’ve seen before, we tend to shoot it down. If it comes attached to a price tag orbiting that of fashion watches, we frown at it. So, perhaps we should celebrate the efforts brands put out on an almost daily basis to bring us new watches, as many of us wouldn’t be able to do the same. In that spirit, today we’re going to take a look at the second model from a young French brand called Manime. The model in question is La Fidèle (“The Loyal One” in French) which is the founder’s take on the popular genre of sport watches with integrated bracelets. Manime was founded in 2020 by Edouard Paris, a countryman based out of Thailand. I say countryman because I was born and raised in France, a country which was put back on the horological map ten years ago thanks to popular brands in the likes of Baltic, Serica, Beaubleu and Yema. I may (obviously) be biased here but I believe that French watches come with a certain aesthetic that leans strongly towards elegance and sobriety...
Time+Tide
Manime La Fidèle
The new Manime La Fidèle vies to be the ultimate minimalist integrated bracelet watch that doesn't skimp on specs.The post Manime La Fidèle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Putting The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Through Its Paces In Iceland
Over land and ice to understand the Overseas.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Glass Bezel And Gold Bridges - Keeping The Quintessential AP Royal Oak Fresh 51 Years On
Audemars Piguet could find themselves boxed into a corner of design with the "Jumbo" but instead, they keep finding ways to do something new with an icon.
Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual Calendar
Baume & Mercier continue to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Riviera in style, reintroducing their signature complication to their sporty integrated bracelet luxury sports watch in style.The post Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot PRX Watches: The Ultimate Guide to the Collection
The Tissot PRX collection is one of the Swiss brand’s major success stories of the past decade despite its relatively recent introduction to the market. Engaging the 21st-Century watch aficionado zeitgeist with its crowd-pleasing combination of classical sport-luxury design, intriguing colorways, and accessible price points, the Tissot PRX has grown from a handful of models to become a modern pillar of the 170-year-old brand’s sprawling and diverse portfolio. Here’s a rundown of the Tissot PRX collection, with a spotlight on several of its most noteworthy models. The Original: 1978 The original Tissot PRX debuted in 1978, and like many watches from that era, it was powered by a quartz movement. The watch was distinguished by its flat, barrel-shaped, multi-faceted case, which integrated smoothly into a flexible, articulated steel bracelet; it took its three-initial model name from its attributes: the “P” and “R” stand for “precise” and “robust,”respectively, and the “X” is actually a Roman numeral “10” depicting the model’s 10 atmospheres (aka 100 meters) of water resistance. The overall aesthetic was one that today’s watch historians will readily recognize, hearkening back to the groundbreaking design of a much pricier watch that had debuted several years earlier, in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The latter had, in fact, exerted influence on a number of so-called “sport-luxury” timepieces that debuted in the Decade of Disco,...
Hodinkee
Introducing: A New 35mm Vacheron Constantin Overseas In Pink Gold With Diamonds - And A Bit More
The brand has also found a new partner who knows ice – and I'm not just talking diamonds.
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