Hodinkee
Introducing: We Now Have A White Gold AP Royal Oak 16202 Jumbo - And Check Out That Grained Dial
The new blue grain texture is undoubtedly cool – but what about the white gold RO we didn't get?
Integrated-Bracelet Sport Watches · Page 61
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Dial in White Gold
Audemars Piguet (AP) just revealed its new launches for the year and one of the highlights is a new version of the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Harking back to the uncommon “Tuscan” dial from three decades ago, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin in white gold boasts a grained blue dial. Initial thoughts At a distance, the new “Jumbo” looks like an average Royal Oak with its white metal case and blue dial. But on the hand, it is evidently different. It is still thin and elegant but wonderfully weighty thanks to the gold case and bracelet. Granted, the quintessential Royal Oak is a steel “Jumbo” but the white gold case leaves this feeling a bit more refined and sophisticated. And then there’s the dial. With its granular surface, it is recognisably different from the average Royal Oak – and also easily beautiful. The PVD treatment gives it a gorgeous metallic blue that combines with the texture to catch the light nicely. Although it is not a limited edition, this feels special, mostly due to the fact that it’s the only white gold “Jumbo” in the catalogue. There is another white metal “Jumbo” in the line up – the platinum model exclusive to AP Houses – but it has a green dial that feels a bit too fashionable. This grained blue dial, however, feels more like a classic. The standard steel “Jumbo” is already an excellent watch, combining the perfect proportions of the original Royal Oak with the excellent cal. 7121. This version in white ...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 mm Turquoise Dial
Audemars Piguet (AP) just launched over a dozen new models, ranging from the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial to the first Offshore Chronograph with a ceramic bracelet. But one stands out despite being the smallest watch amongst the new launches. Dressed in yellow gold and a striking stone dial, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Turquoise Dial is a throwback back to an earlier era when the Royal Oak was offered with a range of mineral stone dials. Initial thoughts Though relatively common in the 1970s and 1980s when stone dials were a thing, the turquoise-yellow gold combination is unusual today. But it has a certain timelessness so the combination remains attractive. In fact, it even feels current, a testament to the longevity of the Royal Oak design (and the current fad for robin-egg blue dials). The watch is intrinsically attractive in its design and palette. The design is simple – almost minimalist in Royal Oak terms – but the watch has presence due to its colours. It is vibrant and loud, very much the opposite of, say the new “Jumbo” in white gold, which is decidedly low key in comparison. One element I wish was different is the seconds hand – I would have preferred a two-hand dial as on the vintage Royal Oak models with stone dials. That simplicity would further accentuate the dial material. The case does feel slightly small for a modern men’s watch. It is an acceptable size, but the dimensions of the model means it feels slightly smaller than it...
Time+Tide
AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more…
New stainless-steel Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet models mark first-ever debut for AP. New Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin takes a Tapisserie break with grained dial treatment. New Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42mm marks first to use a full ceramic case and bracelet. New Royal Oak 37mm Turquoise stone dial is a fresh take on … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Historic Teal Dial
There was one watch we saw at the LVMH Watch Week still under wraps, and it was also one of our favorites, even though it’s based on an existing model. The perfectly odd Defy Revival welcomes the new A3690 reference, with a brilliant teal dial with vignette effect that darkens towards the perimeter. If you’ve followed the first two releases of this Defy Revival, you won’t be surprised to hear that this is also based on a historic reference from 1969. This is a dial color that saw usage throughout the Defy collection of the era, another example of which you can see in this Affordable Vintage spotlight on the Defy from 2015. Side note, when are we getting the Revival treatment on the A781, A782, and A783? There’s not much left to say about the A3690 from a technical perspective, as it’s identical to the A3691, and A3642 we’ve seen released in recent months. The 37mm octagonal case and 14 sided bezel piece remain as funky as ever, and if you liked it on the other references, you’ll likely find a lot to love with this one. The dial is the biggest departure here and it makes just as big a statement as the case. While the teal dial thing has kind of jumped the shark at this point (hasn’t it?), Zenith gets a pass thanks to the historic reference point, and the fact that the Defy was doing integrated bracelet sport watches since the ‘60s. Plus, this is a great teal dial. It stands up to the bold design of the case and the accordion hour markers demanding equal at...
Teddy Baldassarre
Reference Time: The White Gold Vacheron Constantin American 1921
The Background What a year it has been for Vacheron. As the oldest maker in continual production, 2021 has marked the centenary year for the now iconic 1921 model. Not only that, but its Overseas has become the must have steel sports watch alongside the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Since the discontinuation of the 5711 and 15202, the time only, 42mm steel Overseas has seen waitlist explode in length. But we are of course here to discuss the wonderful 1921. So, a little background on Vacheron to kick things off. The Genevois watchmaker Jean-Mark Vacheron founded the company in 1755 at just 24 years of age (he must have weathered his fair share of storms over the years - how many businesses make it through 5 years today). His ambition was to create timepieces that would stand out for their elegance and quality. In 1785, Vacheron's son Abraham took over the company, which survived the French Revolution, among other economic crises. By 1814, third-generation watchmaker Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron was leading the company, but Vacheron realized that he needed a partner if the company was to survive. It wasn’t until 1819 when Francois Constantin, became a partner in the firm. From that point forward, it was "Vacheron & Constantin”. The 1921 is a rare and unusual watch. You either love it or hate it (as all good design should be). Few will know that Vacheron Constantin did produce a similar looking watch first watch in 1919 which had the crown to the left of the lugs. It was a ru...
![[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/01/Ulysse-Nardin_freak_022.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed
Ulysse Nardin is a peculiar brand. They have long been at the forefront of horological innovation, from marine chronometers in the 19th century, to creating stuff like DIAMonSIL in the 21st. However, they lack a singular, cohesive aesthetic that’s coalesced in broader culture in the same way watches like the Speedmaster, Submariner, or Royal Oak have. Except for a watch called the Freak, that is. A concept first released upon the world in 2001, the Freak was as impressive technologically as it was shocking to behold. With a movement that pivoted on itself to display the time, it was (and remains) daring, innovative, and downright novel. But, it never quite enjoyed a ‘hip status’ in the same way other exotic watches from the likes of MB&F or Urwerk have since. This is likely due to a few reasons, but with the release of the Freak X in 2019, Ulysse Nardin is a whole lot closer. The Freak is a watch that has always commanded attention, both technically and visually speaking. The concept placed the gear train atop the mainspring, within a carousel that itself served as the minute hand. There was no dial to speak of, but rather a rotating plate containing the hour hand underpinning the structure. Winding and setting was managed via the deeply scalloped, somewhat steampunk-ish bezel unit. The launch of the Freak also marked the very first appearance of silicon within a watch movement, something the brand has been a pioneer of developing. This is a dramatic watch to behold ...
Deployant
Review: The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra
Watch enthusiasts and non-watch enthusiasts see Bulgari pretty differently. The latter sees it as the brand that sells fancy jewelry while the former sees it as the brand that won’t stop breaking watchmaking records every damn year. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo line has been around for less than 10 years and already it has brokenRead More
Hodinkee
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Made the World's Most Complete Chinese Calendar
The new Tonda PF Xiali Calendar shows how well masterfully complex watchmaking and elegantly wearable design can go hand in hand.
Time+Tide
The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a luxurious remix of an ’80s classic
Integrated-bracelet luxury sports watches aren’t going anywhere, and more high-end manufacturers are getting into the game. Or getting back into it, as is the case with Chopard. Their modern-day classic, the Chopard Alpine Eagle, launched in 2019, has proven to be their biggest hit in recent memory, and it’s easy to see why. Based on their … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a luxurious remix of an ’80s classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light & Fire and Light & Shade
Girard-Perregaux extends its Laureato lineup with two new models. The Light & Fire in red featured here and the Light & Shade in grey.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Does second thinnest mean second best? The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary
Watch brands can be known for boisterous claims or names for their novelties. Masterpiece, icon, ultimate or – in the case of this specific edition of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo – “ultra”. In the acclaimed anime My Hero Academia, “plus ultra” means going all-out, leaving it all on the battlefield, and pushing their abilities to be the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Does second thinnest mean second best? The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Brings New Case to the Laureato in Absolute Light & Shade and Light & Fire
Girard-Perregaux has updated their Laureato with a unique case in two flavors via a pair of watches called the Absolute Light & Shade, and Absolute Light & Fire. What might sound like a fancy new vodka cocktail concoction is actually representative of two takes on a translucent case that’s been subjected to a metallisation process. The result are these Shade and Fire themed Laureato watches, rendered in clear but smokey gray and red tones. The rather complex case shape makes for an interesting experience in this material, while the opacity level means the intricate details aren’t lost in the mix. G-P’s take on the high-end integrated sports watch has always stood a bit outside the norm when it comes to these things, and it’s served all the better for it in this execution. The Laureato was launched in 1975, a year before the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and three years after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Then and now, the watch stands in good company and while it’s managed to skirt much of the hype that once riddled the references above, it’s remained a low-key favorite of long-time enthusiasts looking to fly under the radar. What these new models lack in subtlety, however, they make up for in their avant garde execution. It’s also worth noting that a 38mm steel Laureato can still be had at retail for under $15k. The Light & Shade and Light & Fire join Girard-Perregaux’s Absolute Laureato collection, which was introduced in 2019. The Light & Shade features a ...
SJX Watches
Cartier (Re)Introduces the Tank Francaise
Cartier’s approach to new products is often simply to deftly reboot a bestseller after a few years or even decades. That formula was applied with great acclaim to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont (though the Pasha revival didn’t quite meet with the same commercial success). Now Cartier is doing it for the Tank Francaise. First introduced in 1996 as the first Tank with an integrated bracelet, the Tank Francaise was a major seller for Cartier in the decade that followed. Though the model survived well into the 21st century, it remained essentially unchanged since its launch. Though visually similar to the original, new Tank Francaise is an entirely new watch, having undergone a major facelift that preserved the original outline while refining all the details. The large model in steel with an automatic movement Initial thoughts Like many of Cartier’s other entry-level models, the Tank Francaise is an appealing design at a relatively affordable price. The large automatic model in steel, for instance, retails for under US$6,000. It demonstrates how Cartier does best when it does little. The new design remains easily recognisable, even though every aspect has been revamped, ranging from the applied sticker numerals to the recessed crown. If you liked the original, you’ll probably like this one. The biggest drawback of the new Tank Francaise is simply that most of the line up is quartz, which will disappoint aficionados of mechanical watches. In fact, only one version, th...
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Meet The Five Finalists In The Wristcheck X AP Royal Oak Competition
Each of the designs offer a fresh take on a familiar watch.
Time+Tide
Making the case: The term ‘integrated bracelet’ is being commonly misused
Is the term integrated bracelet often being misused in the watch world? Our Editor Zach makes the case that it is.The post Making the case: The term ‘integrated bracelet’ is being commonly misused appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm
In 1971, Zenith introduced the Defy, a steel sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel that was the inspiration for the Defy Skyline, a simple three-hander in steel with an integrated bracelet. Today, the brand has updated the Skyline with a smaller case of 36 mm and three new dial colours. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Skyline makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The highlight of the Defy Skyline is its compact, 36 mm size. For someone like me who leans towards classic proportions and prefers smaller watches, the size is a plus while also making it more wearable. Along with the size, the clean, simple design is also versatile enough for both genders. And the option of a diamond-set model and bright dial colours certainly elevate its appeal for a wider audience. At US$8,500 for the standard model and 50% more for the diamond-set variant, it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. And while it might not have all the bells and whistles of some of Zenith’s signature chronograph offerings, it’s easy to like for someone looking for a straightforward sports watch with an in-house movement. More colours and a compact size While the original Defy Skyline was 41 mm, the new version is considerably smaller. In spite of its reduced size, the case still retains the distinctive octagonal form with a brushed finish and matching bracelet. But it is equipped with a strap-change mechan...
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: An IWC Ingenieur Chronograph That's Ready For The Formula One Track
The Ingenieur's answer to the Big Pilot still has Genta's DNA.
Deployant
New: Parmigiani Tonda PF Xiali Calendar
Parmigiani releases a new watch with a traditional Chinese Calendar and precison moon phase indication - the Tonda PF Xiali Calendar.
WatchAdvice
The Owner’s Perspective: Reviewing The Zenith Defy Skyline
What we like: Comfort factor on either steel or rubberUnique 1/10th Second sub-dialbeautiful blue dial What we don’t like: No micro-adjust system on the braceletThe bracelet can catch arm hairs occasionallyInability to accurately set the time with the 1/10th second sub-dial Overall rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 When Zenith released the Defy Skyline towards the start of 2022 at LVMH Watch Week, I was immediately drawn to it. Not only had Zenith completely re-imagined the original Defy from the late 60s, but had designed a modern steel sports watch with today’s watch consumer in mind. A great blend of modern lines, a bold design and styling harking back to the original Defy that was released in 1969. With many integrated sports watches on the market these days, it is good to see that a brand like Zenith is taking inspiration from some of its earlier model lines and bringing this to today’s consumer. Now, full disclosure, this isn’t a loan watch for this review; I did order it back in April 2022 and, after a 6-month wait, finally had it on my wrist in October. So this is my hands-on review of the Zenith Defy Skyline now I’ve owned and worn for the past couple of months. And in that time, I’ve really put it through its paces – office work, beach, snorkelling, surfing, trap shooting, and overseas trips, to name a few! How it wears: The Defy Skyline has been designed for wearability. With a diameter of 4...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Quietly Releases A Pair Of Royal Oak Flying Tourbillons With New 'Dimpled' Dial
A new dial pattern gives the Royal Oak a fresh face.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”
Arguably the most significant Audemars Piguet timepiece ever, the Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with a host of new models, including the all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and even a skeletonised, selfwinding flying tourbillon. And just before entering the New Year, Audemars Piguet (AP) dropped the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”. Essentially identical to the standard model, the new version – which is available in either white or pink gold – is distinguished by its surface finishing: dimples on the dial and frosting on the bezel. Limited to 33 pieces each, the pair are primarily for Japan, with only a handful of watches available outside the country. According to our sources, the unusual combination of finishes were proposed by Japanese watch influencer Chronopeace, explaining why most of the run will be sold only in Japan – though this has neither been confirmed nor denied by AP. Initial thoughts I first heard about this discreet release when images were shared with me. As AP occasionally won’t say what drops, the watch was not announced officially, but instead quietly added to its online catalogue, perhaps because it is only available in Japan. Despite being low key, this new release will surely appeal to anyone who likes the Royal Oak but wants the added oomph of a special dial. At a glance, the watch easily reveals itself to be stunning. The layout and style are familiar, but the few tweaks to the dial an...
Time+Tide
What will be the watch colour of the year in 2023?
A couple of years ago, the watch world became flooded with a sea of green. Dials were awash with the colour in multiple shades – from the Patek Phillippe Nautilus in a metallic shade of olive to the mossy hue of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k. Green was the undisputed colour of the year. The … ContinuedThe post What will be the watch colour of the year in 2023? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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