Tourbillon Watches · Page 23

The Stunning L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse from Parmigiani Fleurier

If you don’t get what you’re looking at, don’t worry. You’re not alone - in fact, that’s sort of the point. A quick glance at the new L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is more likely to incite questions than offer answers, but the latest masterpiece from Parmigiani Fleurier, timed to release last week in time for founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, presents us with a watch unlike anything we’ve seen from the brand in recent years. The general architecture of the watch will be familiar to those conversant in Parmigiani’s chosen language - the straight squared-off lugs and pastel pallet are reminiscent of the Toric watches released earlier this year - but it won’t take long to realize that there’s something fairly significant missing from the celebratory watch: a dial. The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is also the latest entry in a series of Minute Repeater wristwatches to deliberately de-emphasize the visible display of time we’re all so used to.  Recent examples of this trick have come from H. Moser & Cie., whose Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black opted for a clean Vantablack dial with nothing but a visible tourbillon; and Biver, whose 2023 OnlyWatch entry replaced its visible dial with a beautiful scene rendered in stone marquetry. But just because we’ve seen versions of this before, doesn’t mean the impact is any lessened here. In fact, this implementation is among the best I’ve encountered, and more than holds its own, while a...

Ending The Year On A Bold Note With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A And The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle

Imagine yourself sitting or standing in a concert hall. The band or orchestra performs what clearly is the last song of the night. After the final note, though, the crowd goes wild and keeps clapping, hoping the concert won’t end just yet. Finally, the performers decide to play one more song - the encore. Sometimes, […] Visit Ending The Year On A Bold Note With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A And The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle to read the full article.

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon

When the hammer came down at the Phillips auction and GaryG became the new owner of an A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon, the feeling was one of complete joy, representing the culmination of a multiyear chase. What makes this particular watch so special in so many ways to him?

Takahiko Aigaki Makes His Debut with the Direct Impulse Tourbillon

Video – Visiting Lang & Heyne, a Proper High-End Watch Brand from Germany

Some of the most spectacularly finished watches come from Lang & Heyne, a small high-end watchmaker from the outskirts of Dresden. Especially the Anton Manufaktur Edition, with its tourbillon that seems to float in thin air, is a feast for the eye. We visited Lang & Heyne to give you a view inside the manufacture.

Up Close: Biver Automatique

The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...

Introducing – The new Carbon Edition of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross

Artist and designer Samuel Ross is back at work with Hublot. A tradition for the brand over its 44 years of existence, Hublot has collaborated with many contemporary artists like Richard Orlinski, Maxime-Plescia-Buchi, Murakami and Daniel Arsham. Marking the third time the Swiss brand has worked with Samuel Ross, both parties bring back the bold, […]

Introducing – The SpaceOne Tellurium is back with Black or Blue Titanium Cases

Young collaborative project/brand SpaceOne continues its exploration of watchmaking through a parallel galaxy… Last year, the bold and modern SpaceOne Jumping Hour emerged from the visionary mind of Théo Auffret, a Parisian independent watchmaker crafting intricate timepieces like the Tourbillon Grand Sport and Guillaume Laidet, the man spearheading the revival of Nivada, Excelsior Park and Vulcain. […]

First Look – High Jewellery Meets High Horology with the New Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) embraced all facets of horology, from his gravity-defying tourbillon regulator to his neoclassical design language and legible displays. While the Reine de Naples is the go-to collection for women, last year, Breguet dipped into its Classique collection and confected two dazzling jewellery models: the Classique Tourbillon 3358. The latest interpretation in white […]

The Totally Unique Hublot MP-16 Arsham Droplet – A Pocket Watch, Pendant & Clock All In One

This is a review with a difference. Why? Because it isn’t the typical watch you wear on the wrist, Hublot’s unique Arsham Droplet is a pocket watch, desk clock and wearable jewellery all in one! What We Love The totally unique shape It’s Hublot material science at its best! Its versatility as a three-in-one-piece What We Don’t You can’t wear it on your wrist It is not as practical in this day and age The crystal shape can distort the dial in places Overall Score: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability/Versatility: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Arsham Droplet is typically Hublot, even though it doesn’t look like anything else Hublot has produced. Ever. That statement sounds like an oxymoron a little, but if you know Hublot, then you’ll know that they pride themselves on creating pieces that are like no other watch brands out there. Just take a look at their watch collaborations. Orlinski, Sang Bleu, and Murakami to name a few. Or their Manufacture Pieces, like the MP-05 LaFerrari, the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, or MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde. These are all Hublot, and while all very different, all have that distinct Hublot style, embedded with Hublot DNA at their core. One of the main reasons these are all unique is Hublot gives create reign to their designers and collaborators, to infuse as much of them into the pieces as Hublot. To me, I love this. Rather than sticking a logo on an already existing watch with a ne...

Up Close: Aigaki Debuts with the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon

Founded by a Japanese transplant to Switzerland, Aigaki is making its debut with the impressive Direct-Impulse Tourbillon. Though relatively youthful, brand founder Takahiko Aigaki is a watchmaker of the old school who developed the watch and then makes almost all of it by hand. Produced almost entirely in Takahiko Aigaki’s own home-workshop with hand-operated tools, the Tourbillon is characterised by its hand-engraved silver dial and a finely-finished movement combining unique architecture with a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Aigaki on Instagram for several months, having become intrigued by the unusual in-line architecture of the movement, and its symmetrical direct-impulse escapement. Initially, only the movement components were shown, but even this sneak peak was enough to pique my interest. Now that the watch has been unveiled, I feel like it was worth the wait. The Tourbillon is a compact, 37 mm timepiece with a clean aesthetic and domed crystal that lends it something of a vintage feel. On its face, the appearance is simple, but the watch instantly conveys the sensation of a finely-crafted object, especially when you turn it over. But even on the front, the details of the dial give away the fact that it is hand-made. Interestingly, there is no ink or paint used on the dial. All of the dial markings and elements are hand-engraved using traditional tools; the brand name is engraved with a hand-operated pantograph. The Tourbillon is v...

Bring a Loupe: A French-Made JLC, A Flying Tourbillon, And A Dual-Signed El Primero

All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity

For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special!

As A. Lange & Söhne celebrate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Lange 1, we thought we’d join the party, and what better way to help celebrate than to take the Lange 1 Time Zone out and about? What We Love The asymmetrical dial Ease of legibility of 2 time zones The impeccable finishing all over the watch What We Don’t The date window with no 0 in front of 1 through 9 It is probably not an everyday watch for many people Like most world time watches, it doesn’t take into account daylight savings automatically Overall Score: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 2024 has been a celebratory year for A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has celebrated two birthdays this year, the first being the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph, which was showcased at Watches & Wonders this year with the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down, but the second, and maybe the most important was the 30th Anniversary of the Lange 1, the first modern watch the brand created after being brought back to life. RELATED READING: Happy 30th Birthday to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1! So, it is safe to say that the Lange 1 is a special piece when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, and when we interviewed A. Lange & Söhne’s Asia Pacific Managing Director, Nicolas Gong, a couple of months ago, he had this to say about the Lange 1, and I think he summed it up perfectly: “It’s the first watch that we launched...

Opinion – Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT – Flying Tourbillon, Foudroyante and Chronograph

While we know Greubel Forsey for oversized and rather outgoing wristwatches with at least one, but often two or even four tourbillons, their latest timepiece seems moderate, both in size and in looks. Yes… let that sink in… The press release is mostly trumpeting about saving nano joules of energy with their 10th fundamental invention, […]

This Watch Changed My Life: The Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon by Daniel Roth

The Two-Minute Tourbillon by Jean Daniel Nicolas/Daniel Roth is a watch that changed Ian Skellern's life. Here he explains how and why.

Audemars Piguet Introduces The 43mm Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion”

Audemars Piguet put a tourbillon inside an edgy titanium watch, and Kaws put a miniature Companion. “AP” is very active in the art scene, so every once in a while, a special collaboration watch emerges. Audemars Piguet introduces the 43mm limited-edition Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion,” a series of 250 futuristic titanium watches infused with […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces The 43mm Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” to read the full article.

Hands-on – The New and Bold Audemars Piguet x KAWS Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Companion

Among Switzerland’s elite Haute Horlogerie brands, Audemars Piguet often stands out for doing things differently and exploring different territories. In particular, the brand is not shy to connect watchmaking to a broader culture as we have seen with recent collabs with Marvel (Spiderman, Black Panther) or with the cool Travis Scott x AP Royal Oak […]

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion'

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Introducing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “COMPANION”

Audemars Piguet and KAWS Debut the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion”

Continuing with its limited editions that cross over into pop culture, Audemars Piguet (AP) now turns to KAWS for its latest collaboration, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43 mm. The contemporary artist, whose real name is Brian Donnelly, lends his “Companion” figure to the dial. Depicted as pressing up against the crystal, the character is realised as a miniature sculpture in titanium with a flying tourbillon at its heart. Kaw’s signature creation takes up almost the entirety of the dial courtesy of the newly-developed cal. 2979 that has a peripheral time display, allowing the hour and minute hands to go under and around “Companion”. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon by Kaws is AP’s best collaboration to date. Amongst AP’s past collaborations, some were too minimalist, while the Marvel editions were controversial (though I liked them). Amongst contemporary art collaborations more broadly, the Kaws tourbillon ranks up there alongside the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami in terms of appeal (though it is nowhere near as affordable as the time-only Hublot). The overall aesthetic of the Kaws tourbillon is coherent and appealing. Encircled by an industrial-technical-looking chapter ring, the figure looks at home. The visible large gears for the peripheral hands add to the visual effect. Granted, the Kaws tourbillon is a figurative depiction of the artist’s best known work, so it isn’t exactly imaginative, but it is done ...

Audemars Piguet teams up with hyped artist Kaws for a subversive Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon

Kaws' iconic Companion character finds its way onto an AP dial in a luxurious confluence of hype and horology.The post Audemars Piguet teams up with hyped artist Kaws for a subversive Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel

The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Review

Angelus is a watchmaker that many younger enthusiasts likely regard as a newcomer to the scene but actually brings to the table a rich heritage going all the way back to 1891 — as a maker of watches as well as some of the industry’s most legendary movements. Angelus calibers were used, for example, in the earliest Panerai Radiomir watches from the 1940s. Based in Le Locle, Switzerland, the firm was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the two-pusher chronograph design that had first been explored by Breitling. Its ChronoDato model, launched in 1942, and its successor in 1948, the ChronoDatoLuxe, remain among the most legendary grails for vintage chronograph collectors.  When Angelus resurfaced in 2015 — now owned by the prolific Swiss movement-maker La Joux-Perret, which is part of Japan’s Citizen Watch Group — the timepieces it chose to re-establish itself in the 21st-Century marketplace proved perplexing to many longtime collectors and armchair brand historians. Watches like the somewhat bizarre-looking, sci-fi-influenced U10 Tourbillon and the huge, skeletonized U50 Diver Tourbillon seemed to indicate that the revived Angelus brand was jettisoning much of its vintage appeal to explore more avant-garde frontiers. Starting in 2022, however, with the much-praised release of the ChronoDate models, heavily inspired by the 1942 ChronoDato, Angelus has signaled a renewed interest in mining its mid-century archives, particularly in its chronograph sweet spot.  The ...