Tourbillon Watches · Page 28

Up Close: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005

Following the 2022 debut of its first ever tourbillon – and the brand’s most complicated watch ever – Grand Seiko follows up this year with the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 “Daybreak”. Mechanically identical to its predecessor (the SLGT003), the new Kodo still boasts a co-axial tourbillon and remontoir, a novel construction unique to the Kodo. But the Kodo SLGT005 is dressed in brighter colours of silver tones and pale greys, hence the “Daybreak” nickname. The result is a watch that’s less aggressively technical in style, but just as complicated. And thanks to its lighter palette, the technicality and decoration of the movement are arguably more prominent in the Kodo “Daybreak”. Initial thoughts The Kodo in its original form had a strikingly skeletonised appearance that maximised the view of its intricate mechanics, giving something of an anime sci-fi aesthetic. This was accentuated by the dark colours highlighted with vivid, dark red rubies. The new version, on the other hand, is both lighter in colour and visual weight. Because there’s less colour contrast in the movement, it appears a bit more classical and less stylised. A clever touch are the blue jewels to replace the conventional red ruby bearings, which enhances the “daylight” theme. The original Kodo SLGT003 from 2022 Even though it looks different, the Kodo SLGT005 is identical in technical terms. So it still has the impressively constructed movement with a novel approach to t...

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon Season 1 by Swizz Beatz Reviewed by Tim Mosso

Launched in 2008, the De Bethune Dream Watch series is a standalone collection offering just a single model at any given time. The Dream Watch 5 featured here was customized by Swizz Beatz.

REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT

TAG Heuer has refined their Aquaracer collection and with many improvements, we wanted to see what all the hype was about. Here’s what we thought… What We Love: Better proportions and size On-the-fly micro-adjust New colours and dial aesthetics What We Don’t: Being a Caller GMT rather than a Flyer GMT Cyclops window over the date aperture Some may find the clasp isn’t as sturdy as other pieces on the market Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 TAG Heuer has been on a run of late. At the start of 2023, they brought us a new look Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” for its 60th anniversary and seemed to knock it out of the park with these. This run continued through 2023 with new variations of the Carrera, but then mid-year, a range of new Monaco’s in titanium with skeleton dials popped up and we saw Max Verstappen sporting a unique version of one of these on his wrist for much of the year. This year, 2024 saw new Carrera variants come out at LVMH Watch Week, including the Dato and a teal green Tourbillon Chronograph and then at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph based on TAG Heuer’s Only Watch entry was released to much applause. Oh, and let’s not forget the Formula 1 x Kith collaborations. But, all this left us wondering, what about the Aquaracer? We saw smaller versions of the Aquaracer Northern Lights models at LVMH watch week, which gave us a small taste of what’...

TAG Heuer’s Affordable Chronograph Tourbillon in Blue “Panda” Livery

A limited edition available only in Europe, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon “Blue Panda” is another take on TAG Heuer’s value-minded complication. Retaining the familiar Glassbox case, this has an attractive white-and-blue dial with the flying tourbillon at six. Initial thoughts When TAG Heuer released the Carrera Glassbox in 2023, it was well received as a successful attempt at modernising a classic racing chronograph. Although the Glassbox is clearly vintage inspired, it is still an original design. The Blue Panda builds on the appeal of the Glassbox by making it more complication, adding a tourbillon to the mix. Notably, the Blue Panda is the only current variant of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with contrast-colour registers, which gives more retro vibes. Although the 42 mm case is slightly bigger than the standard Carrera without tourbillon, the short lugs allow it to wear quite well on various wrists. Priced at €25,200 with taxes, the Blue Panda is priced similar to other versions of the model, and remains a decent value proposition. While it is far more expensive than the affordable chronographs that TAG Heuer is known for, it is affordable for this combination of complications. Though the in-house movement is industrially executed, it is high quality and packaged in the attractive Glassbox case. Another species of “Panda” The stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm in thickness, and retains the signature elements of the Carrera Gla...

New: Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Enheduanna

Montblanc released a new timepiece that celebrates the 100th anniversary of the Meisterstück with a tribute to Enheduanna, the world’s earliest known author and boy the Montblanc Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Enheduanna is certainly a feat!

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold 'Lumen' – Lange's Most Expensive Serially Produced Watch

It's a big watch to celebrate a big year for the Datograph. Now we take a closer look.

Nothing Makes Sense This Monday, And The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar In Pink Gold And Green Is To Blame

Let’s do a little test. I want to know how you react to the following types of watches. Are you ready? Here we go - dive watches with tourbillons and pilot’s watches with perpetual calendars. Do you start to feel a tad uncomfortable? Did your left eye twitch a little? It’s a “yes” for me […] Visit Nothing Makes Sense This Monday, And The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar In Pink Gold And Green Is To Blame to read the full article.

Delma Releases a Limited Edition Chronograph to Continue their 100th Anniversary Celebration

Earlier this year we told you about Swiss brand Delma’s 100th anniversary celebration, which kicked off with the release of a limited edition tourbillon. Of course, plenty of brands release tourbillons and they are a natural for a celebratory watch, but very few come in at under $10,000, which the Delma did during its pre-order period (the full retail price is $13,900, which is still quite affordable for a Swiss tourbillon). Their latest effort, announced last month, has also been released to coincide with the brand’s centenary, but it’s a bit more modest in its focus. The new Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition pays tribute to Delma’s long history of making chronographs in a handsome package that’s a bit more under the radar (and more affordable) than their release from earlier in the year.  Delma traces their history of making chronographs to the mid 1940s when the brand’s focus began to shift to sport oriented watches. Over the years, they’ve made watches for just about every sporting discipline that a well rounded watch brand would ever attempt, including dive watches, timepieces meant for racing of all kinds, as well as travel watches. The new Heritage Chronograph has several clear vintage cues meant to tie this watch to the brand’s earliest sports watches.  Like many WWII era and later mid century chronographs, the Heritage Chronograph features both tachymeter and telemeter scales at the dial’s outer perimeter. Red accents within the te...

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”

The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a union of almost everything that is associated with A. Lange & Söhne, from the Lumen treatment to the case metal. Appropriately enough, it was conceived to mark a milestone: the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, the brand’s trademark chronograph. While the impressive watch has nearly all of Lange’s signature elements, is it truly great? Initial thoughts The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is ambitious because it is an all-in-one limited edition. The watch is big, heavy, and flawlessly executed. It feels like an object of exceptional quality, and lives up to expectations under a loupe. It captures Lange as a brand in tangible terms. The long name is descriptive and sums up the key elements of the watch, almost all of which are unique to Lange. While the earlier versions were already extremely complicated, this goes a further by incorporating uniquely Lange livery with the Lumen dial and Lange’s own Honeygold alloy. Essentially everything synonymous with Lange can be found here. There’s the Datograph chronograph movement, outsized date, a hacking tourbillon with a cage that will be familiar to fans of German watchmaking, the tinted-and-luminous dial, and the case in Lange’s proprietary gold alloy. The only distinctively Lange features missing are Handwerkskunst decoration and a chain and fusee, either of which would have hoisted the price past the million-dollar mark. But the latest...

Cyrus Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon: Exotic Yet Surprisingly Practical

The Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon is, in many ways, a landmark model for Cyrus, marking the start of a new chapter.

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition

At last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva, TAG Heuer introduced its new Carrera Chronograph collection with the so-called “Glassbox” design. We are big fans of the regular 39mm version in its blue and black/silver configurations. Maybe that’s why we didn’t dedicate too much attention to the 42mm blue-dial tourbillon version that came […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On: Kari Voutilainen's 20th Anniversary Tourbillon

Spending time with a platinum masterpiece to celebrate the platinum anniversary of one of the most influential independent watchmakers alive.

Sincere Fine Watches 70th Anniversary: Laurent Ferrier’s Grand Sport Tourbillon Gets Its First Guilloché Dial

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee

While Laurent Ferrier originally made its name with timepieces that paid homage to traditional watchmaking, the brand has recently evolved towards to a more contemporary style, especially with its Sport collection that marries solid, classical mechanics with sporty case designs. The latest addition to the line is the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, a limited edition in rose gold and green guilloche that celebrates the 70th anniversary of Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches. Initial Thoughts The Sincere edition is essentially a Grand Sport Tourbillon dressed in a warm and appealing palette. The green dial complements the 5N rose gold case, a rich combination that conveys a sense of old-school luxury and refinement, which suits the commemorative occasion well.  Unusually, it is presented on a strap, instead of a bracelet that has been the norm for most of Laurent Ferrier’s sports watches to date. The strap makes the watch more wearable – a bracelet would mean a lot of gold – and also slightly more accessible in terms of price. In typical Laurent Ferrier style, the quality of execution is high. The dial is made by Voutilainen’s Comblemine while the movement is decorated to an impressive level (though the bridges have a simpler linear brushed finish instead of the more traditional striping). Intrinsically, the Sincere edition is an appealing iteration, but the Laurent Ferrier Sport line in general feels ambiguous as the design not e...

New and Reviewed: Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon for Sincere

Here is our hands-on comprehensive review of the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...

Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium

Please, come closer. It’s worth it. When you do, you can find that the movement inside the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium comprises 194 parts and features no fewer than 16 types of manual finishing. This results in a sophisticated and impressive watch that is both complicated and minimalistic; indeed, it is a paradox in […] Visit Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium to read the full article.

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in Titanium

Vacheron Constantin introduces a new Overseas Tourbillon variant, this time in titanium, with the collection's iconic lacquered blue dial.

Introducing – A New Blue Panda TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon

When TAG Heuer released its Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in 2016, it created a sensation on the watch market. It was not because of its double complications or its imposing 45mm case and skeletonised dial but because it featured an in-house integrated chronograph movement with a tourbillon regulator (Heuer 02T) and a hyper-aggressive price tag of […]

From death prediction to sunrise times, these are the most unique watch complications

We've seen tourbillons and minute repeaters aplenty - these watches sport some truly unique mechanical oddities.The post From death prediction to sunrise times, these are the most unique watch complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like

This grail-worthy piece isn't just one of the “most platinum” watches made recently, but a glorious yet surprisingly understated example of haute horlogerie.The post Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon in Wyoming Jade and Gold

One of the things Martin Green admires about Moser is that they seem to design each and every individual watch. The new Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade is a case in point.

Hands-On: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel

The Streamliner gets more complicated than ever before.

New: Ba111od Chapter 4.8 GMT Tourbillon Greenwich Limited Edition

Another addition to Ba111od's accessible tourbillon story is written with the new Chapter 4.8 GMT Tourbillon Greenwich Limited Edition.