Tourbillon Watches · Page 51

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

Having recently launched the second of its models designed by Takashi Murakami, Hublot returns with a collaboration with an another artist, British fashion designer Samuel Ross. The result is the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, a watch that is very different from the rest of the lineup, thanks to the open-worked honeycomb pattern applied across the watch. Initial thoughts The design of the Samuel Ross is unexpected and most notable for being a significant evolution of the Big Bang. While Hublot’s signature model was criticised in the past for being too reminiscent of a Royal Oak, the Samuel Ross is its own watch. It’s no doubt an acquired taste, but it is different. But for anyone who likes big, bold watches that are complicated – and look the part – this is mission accomplished. The extensive use of the honeycomb grid as well as orange rubber give it an aggressive look that sets it apart from other Big Bang Tourbillons. The bezel, for instance, isn’t the usual round affair but is instead an elongated octagon. More prominent is the extension of the honeycomb grid to the edge of the case, leaving the orange rubber to trace the outline of case, evoking a watch worn on a “Bund” strap, which enhances the sporty appearance. It’s through limited editions like the Samuel Ross that demonstrates ones of its key strengths, it versatile manufacturing prowess. The brand’s in-house expertise in engineering and production means an ability to make a great variety of ...

Introducing the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue

Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...

INTRODUCING: It’s chime time with the Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon

Maybe it’s just me, but recently there seems to be a common thread amongst high-end watchmakers. Multiple releases have come out making use of that much loved melodious complication, the minute repeater (I must admit, there is something very enjoyable about listening to time.) While some brands are just getting into this arena, others have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: It’s chime time with the Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Seiko President reveals the origin story behind the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon

“Grand Seiko was born in 1960 and for about 50 years it was just limited exclusively to the Japanese domestic market,” explains Seiko President Akio Naito in this video. “Then we decided to go into the global market in 2010, and then we decided to make Grand Seiko an independent brand in 2017.” Grand Seiko has … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko President reveals the origin story behind the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton in Platinum

One moment you’re in your lane making jewelry, the next you’re out breaking watchmaking records at an unsettling rate – just another Tuesday at Maison Bulgari then. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has been around for (only) eight years and has broken as many thinness records. One of these world beaters is none other than theRead More

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur: Time Traveling Around The World (And A Standout Star At Watches And Wonders 2022)

For many in the watch world, the fairly unassuming Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur – with no tourbillon, no chimes, and nothing insanely in your face – became the watch of the fair at Watches and Wonders 2022. In fact, in our post-fair round table it was the “best in show” for at least half of our on-location team. Elizabeth Doerr takes a closer look at this imaginative opus with practical use.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

The Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a newcomer duo to the Traditionelle collection. It packages Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking prowess in a more feminine product, positioned to be one of the most complicated members of the family alongside a couple of tourbillon models. Complicated watches have often been reserved for larger sizes, so seeing them with proportions … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277

This past Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko dropped a ton of really cool novelties. There was the Evolution 9 chronographs and GMTs, the white lion high jewellery piece and, of course, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. But that first wave of releases wasn’t enough for the Japanese manufacture. While not technically Watches and Wonders … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva, with F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, and Voutilainen

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva is a 201-lot sale that comprises a myriad of rare and unusual timepieces. The selection of independent watchmaking at The Geneva Watch Auction: XV is particularly interesting, including several early and historically significant timepieces from high-profile brands. We round up five of the most notable watches, ranging from an F.P. Journe Resonance from the year of its launch, as well as early, unique pieces from Daniel Roth and Kari Voutilainen, a skeleton, double-face tourbillon and Decimal Repeater respectively. The Daniel Roth double-face tourbillon that is possibly unique thanks to the sapphire dials on both the front and back Granted, several of the watches we’re covering below will finish well into six figures. But even if you are not planning to bid, they are worth learning about. We provide a close look at rare watches that are rarely encountered. That said, there’s an eminently affordable example of excellent, honest independent watchmaking in the sale: the Habring² Erwin “Star”, the first-ever SJX Edition that was launched last year to 10th anniversary of this site. Though a handful have sold on the secondary market since – including one that sold on Loupe This for US$15,400 – this is the first example to go under the hammer at a major, international auction house. The Geneva Watch Auction: XV takes place at Hôtel La Réserve in Geneva, with the first session happening on May 7 and the second session on the day...

De Bethune DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon: The Blues Have Never Been So Joyful – Reprise

De Bethune’s watches can be equally as technical and eyebrow-raising on the outside as they are on the inside. Nonetheless, Elizabeth Doerr is still surprised every single time that she catches a glimpse of one of the Kind of Blue beauties: the depth, shimmer, and shine of this particular color is mesmerizing. And surely not only to her. Find out how she felt wearing one of these for a while!

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic

Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Sotheby’s forthcoming Important Watches I in Hong Kong is the first live auction of the year by a major auction house, or so accurately it’s the second day of the auction, with the sale of a mega, single-owner Patek Philippe collection happening in the evening the day before. With the strong demand for independent watchmaking, the 214-lots sale encompasses timepieces from a range of niche and not-so-niche indies. The lineup is naturally led by F.P. Journe, perhaps the marquee name in independent watchmaking today, but the most valuable lot is the very rare and very expensive Montre École, one of 11 watches born of the Naissance d’une Montre project backed by Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour. We round up six highlights from amongst the independent watchmakers at the sale, which starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Montre École no. 09/11 Lot 2127: H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Having been business partners for a decade or so – Moser’s sister company supplies hairsprings to MB&F – the two brands revealed their first collaboration in 2020 when both coincidentally celebrated their 15th anniversary. The more complicated of the two anniversary editions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon was more Moser than MB&F with its dial colour and movement, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The Cylindrical Tourbillon combines the best of both brands. The aesthe...

Hands-On: H. Moser's Show-Stopping Cylindrical Tourbillon Has A Heartbeat You Won't Believe

It's also one of the most interesting releases of the year.

TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds

TAG Heuer is injecting advanced materials technology into what was the most affordable tourbillon-chronograph on the market, creating the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. The new watch makes liberal use of carbon in all its forms, most notably with a carbon-composite hairspring along with a dial and crown made entirely of synthetic diamond, reflecting chief executive Frederic Arnault’s interest in technology and industrial processes. Priced at the equivalent of US$375,000, the Plasma is the first luxury mechanical watch to utilise artificial, or lab-grown, diamonds. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has developed a suite of cutting-edge technology unusual a brands in its price range, though the brand’s most significant innovation, the carbon-composite hairspring, has never really gotten the recognition it deserves. While extremely expensive and slated to be produced in tiny numbers – just a handful a year according to Mr Arnault – the Plasma will certain broadcast TAG Heuer’s accomplishments in innovation, as well as that of its in synthetic diamond suppliers. While lab-grown diamonds aren’t new, they have never before been used in high-end watch. As befits their unconventional status, the synthetic diamonds have been set in an abstract manner on the case, as opposed to typical gem setting. Combined with the synthetic diamond dial and crown, the result is a watch that is weird yet compelling. But more important than the decorative use of synthetic diamond is the...

The Bushidō Code - Introducing the Richard Mille RM47 Tourbillon

VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases

If variety is the spice of life, Chopard broke out the chilli sauce for Watches & Wonders 2022.  Their large range of releases covered a variety of genres while maintaining that upper-class character we expect from the famed Swiss watchmaker. Whether it was a complicated addition to a collection, a brand-new take on a retro … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: For The First Time Ever, The Royal Oak 'Jumbo' Gets An Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

Sometimes the most impressive changes are also the most subtle.

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3

Having unveiled the first all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 earlier this year to mark the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off the first “Jumbo” tourbillon. Possible thanks to the newly developed movement found in the ref. 16202, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions, but also boasts a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Recent Royal Oak tourbillons were bulky compared to the svelte time-and-date “Jumbo”, largely because they utilised movements developed for use across Audemars Piguet’s range of watches. Last year’s Royal Oak automatic tourbillon, for instance, was 41 mm in diameter and shares the same movement as the Code 11.59 tourbillon. In contrast the new “Jumbo” tourbillon is equipped with a movement conceived specifically for the model, one that allows the case to retain the dimensions of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 of 1972. As a result, the “Jumbo” tourbillon is surely an appealing watch, because the lines and proportions of the original Royal Oak are practically ideal. Granted, the addition of the tourbillon is a matter of taste – you may or may not like the aperture on the dial that reveals the regulator. I like the look, with one caveat: I wish the “AP” emblem was retained on the dial. “Jumbo” but elegant The new tourbillon is essentially the ref. 16202 with the addition of a tourbillon regulator. It has exactly th...

Introducing: Bulgari Revisits Its Record-Breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton (Live Pics)

A limited run cased in platinum.

Introducing the updated Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, Chronograph GMT Automatic and Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic

Bulgari presents three new executions from its Octo Finissimo collection - Minute Repeater, Chronograph GMT Automatic and Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic.

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

Introducing: H. Moser's New Cylindrical Tourbillon Is A Seriously Stunning Skeleton

The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton breaks new aesthetic ground for Moser.

VIDEO: Zach & Ricardo react to the Grand Seiko novelties (spoiler alert: they’re pretty excited…)

Our latest video is courtesy of the Grand Seiko novelties which caused a pretty big stir amongst the team and wider watch community with the release of the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon. Grand Seiko has decided to only make 20 of what is their most complicated piece yet. The boys also delve deep into the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Zach & Ricardo react to the Grand Seiko novelties (spoiler alert: they’re pretty excited…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.