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Bell & Ross’ signature BR wristwatch is essentially an aviation instrument in a square case, a style that works well as a military watch, explaining the iterations in camouflage or a fighter jet “heads-up display”. Sometimes associated with airborne troops, the skull is a recurring theme for the BR series, and one that has been continually refined over the last decade. The BR skull watch been redesigned both visually and mechanically, most notably with the proprietary, automaton-skull form movement of two years ago. With the new BR 01 Cyber Skull, the brand has taken a new aesthetic direction with a case and dial that is strikingly modern – polygonal, facetted, and very much like a sci-fi villain – making it vastly different from earlier skull watches that often seemed like nostalgic memento mori. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind Skynet and other technological villains, the Cyber Skull departs from the style of its predecessors that were characterised by an organic skull and elaborate case patterns, essentially a digitised version of the original BR Skull watch. Though simple, the design is done well, with a cohesive aesthetic with the case and dial echoing one another. The case is clearly derived from the original BR-01, but done with more facets and angles, with the polygonal surfaces continuing on the skull and crossbones. The BR 01 Laughing Skull White (left) and the BR 01 Cyber Skull Both the case and skull are made of black ceramic, while the movement ...

Linde Werdelin collaborates with James Thompson of Black Badger to explore what is possible with a lume dial with the new Oktopus Blue Sea. Press Release information with commentary in italics The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea retails for SGD 21,451 inclusive of GST or GBP 12,000 exclusive of VAT. Commentary Interesting new application ofRead More

Editor’s note: I remember it like it was yesterday. I was standing next to a stripper pole with a lovely girl named Agnes, who toured me through all the functions of the brand new RM 69 random-phrase-generating watch by Richard Mille. We then tried it out, so to speak. Lots of fun. But is it … ContinuedThe post Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Having made its debut two years ago with the original Model 1, Anordain has just announced the Model 1 Fumé that features a fired enamel dial in graduated, translucent colour. Based in the Scottish city of Glasgow, Anordain’s specialty are vitreous enamel dials in lightly-designed, affordable watches, and the Model 1 Fumé boasts the most elaborate dial to date. Brightly coloured in the centre and darkening towards the edges, the dial of the new Model 1 is the result of experimenting with a silver dial base, instead of the usual copper. After a year’s worth of trial and error, Anordain’s pair of in-house enamellers finally perfected the smoked enamel dial. Initial thoughts With its fired enamel dial in pastel colours, the original Model 1 was an appealing watch with even more appealing value, being priced at a little under US$1,400 at the time. It was a modestly sized watch with a simple dial that was still distinctive, thanks to the proprietary typography and smart dial design. And the recognisable texture and colour of the enamel dial made it even better. The new Model 1 is essentially identical in terms of size and style. Although the case has been subtly redesigned, it retains the same dimensions, which means it wears well and feels a little bit like a vintage watch, albeit one that’s quite thick for the diameter. But the new dial is far more striking. In fact, the dial is similar to that found on last year’s Model 2, a good-looking watch that is a little b...

A collaboration most crimson.

Revolution speaks with Robert-Jan Broer of fratellowatches.com, on the launch of their limited edition watch made in partnership with Oris. The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is a 40mm bronze cased rendition of the watch with an oxblood dial that features rose gold colored hands and gilt print. The 300-piece limited edition will be sold exclusively through https://shop.fratello.com/ priced at €1,950

Limited-edition collaborations in the watch industry are growing in popularity in 2020. We wanted to dig a bit deeper and get some behind-the-scenes insight on the sumptuous new hook-up between Fratello Watches and Oris. We can really only liken this combination to a glass of Bordeaux in a rich golden goblet for the wrist. I … ContinuedThe post How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Oris x Fratello Watches Oris Big Crown Pointer Date brings the gorgeous oxblood red dial to the sleek satin brushed bronze case.The post HANDS-ON: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is like a glass of Bordeaux in a golden goblet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko has always made it a point to deliver bang for your buck. And in recent years, the brand has been realigning its different collections with the aim of offering collectors exciting products in every price category. For the Presage, this means that there are now two tiers to the collection: Prestige and Basic. Martin Green takes us through a number of the latest models for 2020.

Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. Based in London, Mike – who, confusingly, is actually English – has since been beavering away on an opening salvo of stories to properly introduce him, and his fine city, to you, … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 1 – Johnny Dowell aka King Nerd and his Bamford G-Shock, vintage Omega and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Soon after the very first of the Simplicity 20th Anniversary sold for a record US$1.51 million, Philippe Dufour revealed that Lebanese watch collector and gem merchant Claude Sfeir will now be his exclusive retailer worldwide. Historically selling direct to clients but also represented by a handful of retailers around the world, most notably Shellman in Tokyo, Mr Dufour has now streamlined his distribution. Having known Mr Dufour for some 40 years, Mr Sfeir will handle the sale of the 20 Simplicity 20th Anniversary watches, as well as whatever timepieces Mr Dufour may debut in the future. With Mr Dufour himself keeping the last of the 21 anniversary timepieces, the first 10 examples will be sold direct to clients. While not revealing the specifics of the allocation process, Mr Sfeir noted during a phone conversation he hoped to that the watches would be evenly distributed around the world. The last 10 watches will be allocated in a lottery that will take place in Switzerland. It will be a formal event, with a huissier de justice – an officer of the court in Switzerland – serving as a witness. According to Mr Sfeir, the restructuring of the distribution will not only help Mr Dufour build a more commercially sustainable business, but also ensure the Dufour brand name can continue into the next generation. Mr Sfeir also let on that Mr Dufour’s daughter, Daniela, is almost done with her watchmaking education. She will join Mr Dufour at the bench at the end of 2020, o...

Thousands of requests, only ten watches – is your name in the hat?

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” Exactly 175 years ago, a certain Ferdinand Adolph Lange, then only 30 years old, set out to create what would become a beacon of fine watchmaking not just in Germany, but the entire world: A. Lange & Söhne. This year, on the 175thRead More

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe has had an amazing year.

Launched in 2004 as an offshoot of the 2000 Series, the Aquaracer is the quintessential TAG Heuer dive watch. Solidly constructed and usually good value, the Aquaracer has pretty much stuck to the same aesthetic since it was launched. But it leaves staid looks behind with the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition, a surprisingly cool diver designed by Bamford Watch Department (BWD), the watch customiser par excellence. Coming a week after the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost, the new Aquaracer is the second BWD collab in as many weeks. But the Aquaracer at the other end of the spectrum, both in design and price. The Laureato Ghost was entirely in white ceramic, while the Aquaracer is all matte titanium and more accessibly priced – although it is expensive for an Aquaracer. Initial thoughts BWD excels at applying new colours and textures to existing designs to create a whole new look. This has been achieved here, most notably with the sandblasted finish on the case and bracelet. Because the material is titanium – nearly all Aquaracers to date are steel – the result is a grey, granular surface that gives it the feel of no-nonsense “tool” watch. The dial features a notable degree of nuance for a “tool” watch, including a radial pattern and moulded Super-Luminova blocks for hour markers. A quirky detail that’s been found on other BWD watches also makes an appearance here: an alternating white-and-orange tip for the seconds hand, which brings to mind a clownfish o...

A very small number of Tudor Black Bay watches bear the State of Qatar insignia, which makes them sought after by collectors.

Everyone loves good value. It’s always nice to walk away from a purchase with the smug feeling that you got a lot more than what you paid for. One brand that consistently provides those good vibes is Baume & Mercier. They really know how to walk the fine line between luxury and accessibility and it … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

To commemorate Stephen Hawking, English watch company Bremont created a set of limited-edition watches honoring the late theoretical physicist: the Bremont Hawking and Hawking Quantum models. As the brand’s tenth limited edition, the Hawking watches pay homage to some of the greatest accomplishments of an Englishman in the last century. And like that titan of cosmology, there is more than meets the eye here.

In Scandinavia, our long dark winters should be a fertile breeding ground for horology. Just as the oppressive gloom sent the Swiss inside to tinker about with watchmaking tools and lathes, you might expect a similar tradition to have developed in these parts – Scandinavian design and Nordic minimalism are, after all, deeply engrained in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breilting’s Chronomat model has been around since 1984, holding a significant place in the brand’s history ever since its release. The Chronomat was released at a time when quartz watches were the popular choice for wrist wear. In 1984, Breitling took an impressive risk, by designing and releasing a mechanical timepiece into a much quartz driven world. The Chronomat upon its release proved to be a winner and became an icon that to this day enthusiasts still love.  The original Breitling Chronomat was inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch, which was created in 1983 alongside the famous aerobatic demonstration team of the Italian Air Force; Frecce Tricolori. The stylish design codes of the 1984 Chronomat made this timepiece truly an all-purpose sports watch. Although the Breitling Chronomat was seen as a watch for pilots and the aviation industry, it was just as popular in other areas such as Formula 1 teams. The unique reversible rider tabs also made the Chronomat ideally suited for regattas as well.  With such versatility, the Breitling Chronomat was made to be a daily wearer, a watch that you can wear on the red carpet while fitting in perfectly at outdoor activities and the beach. The latest Breitling Chronomat collection released in 2020 captures all the essence and qualities of the original model while giving it an update with modern design cues and movement, showcasing the brand’s future.  Breitling Chronomat reference AB0134101K1A1 In regards to the Chronom...

Don't call it quartz, it's been here for years.

Last week, we talked about six modern watch icons that have made an impact in the watch industry. We think that although we have featured six watches, it is certainly not enough to cover the array of wonderful watches that deserve a spot on the list. Hence, in this week’s article, we have decided toRead More

Announced last year as a fundraising project for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the MIH Gaïa was delayed for a couple of months due to the pandemic-induced shutdown in Switzerland, but the 200-piece limited edition was recently completed and is now being delivered. Inspired by the Brutalist style of the museum building, the Gaïa watch is a clean but smart design that combines a novel time display with a well-finished case. And importantly, proceeds from its sale go to the MIH, an important horological institution that’s the largest time-measurement museum in the world. Initial thoughts Attractive in design and feel, the Gaïa is an honest product that helps a good cause. Although the style is minimalist, the design incorporates elements that give it a distinctive appearance, most notably the angled lugs and domed minute disc. Although the watch is not large, it has good presence on the wrist as a result of the design. The time display seems unconventional at first, but is actually straightforward, relying on discs instead of hands for both hours and minutes. Reminiscent of a weighing scale, it’s easy to read, though the hour disc looks initially odd because the numerals are arranged anti-clockwise. The minute disc, on the other hand, is conventional but one of the defining visual elements of the watch, thanks to the fact that it’s recessed and slightly spherical. The case is worth pointing out for its form and finish, especially on the lugs. They...

Naruto is one of the biggest-selling manga series in history, selling 250 million copies worldwide. The Japanese anime series followed the adventures of a young ninja, Naruto Uzumaki, while a spin-off series, Boruto, subsequently focused on Naruto’s son. The shows’ all-action exploits have now inspired Seiko to create a new collection of seven watches based … ContinuedThe post Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editor’s note: This is a story that focuses on two things, being the collection and story of the man that almost certainly owns more Speedmasters than any other collector on earth, Mr Bhaskar Eswaran. It also leads into a description of the new Omega Authentication service for watches more than 30 years old. I am … ContinuedThe post This collector has a different Omega Speedmaster for every day of the year, and has even made ‘Speedy Suspenders’… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The momentum IWC generated in 2019 has continued unimpeded this year, with a slightly dressier focus. Here, we’re treated with the reinvigoration of the stoic, masculine, yet classy line in the new IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection. With the Portugieser Chronograph, IWC have stuck with their attitude of evolution over revolution, upgrading all of the regular … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Our favourite references from the IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.