Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic
A darkly lovely new presence in the Octo Finissimo collection.
Hodinkee
A darkly lovely new presence in the Octo Finissimo collection.
A suavely aristocratic take on AP's most classic Royal Oak.
Hodinkee
Breaking them down and sounding them out
Hodinkee
Let's get out the vote.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch is available in the usual range of materials, as well as some unusual carbon-glass composites, and now sapphire with the Laureato Absolute Light. At first glance it appears to adhere to a common formula – executing a well-known case design in sapphire – but Girard-Perregaux has tweaked a few elements to make it a little more interesting, while maintaining transparent-mechanical look prized in such watches. Initial thoughts Ultra-luxe sports watches with sapphire cases are surprisingly common, despite the accompanying price tag. Typically the design can be varied little, since what most brands do is produce their signature style in sapphire. So the way to stand out is to make the details a little bit more interesting, and the price tag a little less high. Girard-Perregaux has succeeded in the former – amongst the interesting details here are the movement and hours chapter ring – while doing so-so on the latter. At 85,000 Swiss francs, the Laureato Absolute Light is a lot of money, but amongst sapphire-case sports watches, the price is middle of the road. Framed by lugs The 44 mm case is typical Laureato, which is a circle within an octagon within a tonneau-shaped case. Admittedly the standard Laureato does bear a strong resemblance to a handful of famous Gerald Genta case designs, but when rendered in sapphire the Laureato does look quite original. The case construction is unusual in that the titanium lugs bookend each side ...
Deployant
We bring you the low-down and our thoughts on the new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10, offered in titanium, King Gold, and black ceramic.
Hodinkee
From hardened steel divers to star-dial Rolexes, this week we've got something for everyone.
Revolution
Attention, Star Wars fans. URWERK is celebrating May 4th with a UR-100 Gold model inspired by C-3PO, and a special auction for the watch is being launched to support organisations fighting the COVID-19 pandemic.
SJX Watches
Returning to a metal it has not used in a long time, Urwerk debuts the UR-100 Gold Edition in 18k yellow gold. It’s a limited edition of just 25 watches, with the first watch slated to be sold to benefit medical research in an online auction. The Gold Edition is the fourth iteration of the brand’s entry-level watch, which was previously available only in steel. Because of the case material, the Gold Edition is more costly, but by a reasonable margin, than the earlier steel versions. Initial thoughts Though Urwerk watches make the most sense in steel or titanium – those materials match the sci-fi style and mechanics – they have the most appealing tangible feel in precious metal. And brushed yellow gold has a restrained-but-luxe look that I like, though I would worry about it being quite easily scuffed. The downside of an Urwerk watch in gold or platinum is typically weight, and the resulting poor ergonomics. But as the UR-100 is one of the smallest, and definitely the slimmest, Urwerk watches to date, it is likely the most wearable gold Urwerk to date. Importantly, it’s priced at about 20% over the steel version, or 10,000 Swiss francs, which is reasonable as such things go. The Gold Edition is worth the stretch, assuming you can live with the less-robust case material. 2N gold The gold case is finished with a pronounced brushed finish, with the edges framed by polished bevels, resulting in a soft sheen that goes with the pale colour of the alloy – 2N gold accor...
Revolution
Ross Povey kicks off a new Zoom video interview series today, called “Desert Island Dials, where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island.
Time+Tide
If you’re reading Time+Tide, then you probably already own a watch. In fact, I suspect, you’re likely to have a fair old few. There’s that slimline dress watch that nestles so comfortably beneath your shirt cuff. The rugged diver that you love in spite of the fact that you barely know how to snorkel. Perhaps … ContinuedThe post There is a scientific reason that you ache for new watches, this is it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In a smart bit of irony, the latest aviation-instrument edition from Bell & Ross – the BR 03-92 HUD – is a mechanical replica of the electronic heads-up display (HUD) in fighter jets, reproducing the green and black screen from the cockpit with sapphire crystal and Super-Luminova. The BR 03-92 HUD follows on other instrument panel-inspired BR 03 watches, including the BR 01-92 Red Radar of 2011, which was probably the cleverest of the editions, until new HUD. Initial thoughts In its initial years, Bell & Ross (B&R;) took the military-instrument aspect of the BR series pretty seriously, and the watches were largely no-nonsense pilot’s watches. But starting a couple of years ago the designs have gotten more lighthearted – from full “lume” to skulls – which conversely makes sense. The HUD continues with the theme, while managing some self-reflective humour in being a mechanical watch, but manages to capture the cockpit display. And as is typical for the BR series, the watch is powered by an ordinary movement, but presented in a high-quality case made by B&R;’s sister company, G&F; Chatelain (and both, in turn, are owned by Chanel), and accompanied by an accessible retail price. In short, it’s a fun, affordable watch that’s well executed. Tinted crystal The HUD-style watch face is achieved with simple but effective construction that creates several layers of glow-in-the-dark green: the sapphire crystal is tinted green with a coating on its underside, with the ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: This week on Micro Mondays we focus our gaze on a British brand that has made waves in the space over the last few years, delivering affordably priced watches with ample character to make them stand out from an increasingly crowded segment of the market. Farer are not immune to taking cues from … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Farer Oxley GMT offers quarantine comfort, for the right amount of cost appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique comes in two limited-edition designs and derives from the Cheval Cosmique design found on other Hermès objects. Both prominently feature the hand-engraved white gold cosmic horse, which takes the artisan almost a week to complete, and artist Gianpaolo Pagni's signature squiggles. For Joshua Munchow it's all about the art and the contrasts.
Time+Tide
Certain expertise has always been found in specific parts of the world, creating hubs of creativity and technical innovation. So what would happen if you put the watchmaking nous of La Chaux-de-Fonds and the tech capability of Silicon Valley together into a watch? You get the TAG Heuer Connected watch, generation 3. The first generation … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The first rule about Schnitzel Dinner is that you don’t ask to be invited to Schnitzel Dinner. You be nice to Frank from Monochrome. You wait by the inbox. You hope like hell you’re going to be in ‘the 45’. The first part was the problem for us at Time+Tide. The Dutchies are just so … ContinuedThe post What is the ‘Baselworld Schnitzel Dinner’, and why does it matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Mother's Day is just around the corner. Here are some recommendations from Chopard, Jaquet Droz, Maurice Lacroix, JLC, Harry Winston and Breguet.
Hodinkee
A warbler for every wrist.
Time+Tide
Watch customisation is now a field you can get into at high and low price points, but it’s still fair to say that going bespoke with a quality watch fit for the Ministry of Defence for example, is generally reserved for the upper echelons of independent watchmaking. And up at a price point where you … ContinuedThe post Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin launches two new brown-toned FiftySix models – Self-Winding and Complete Calendar – in 5N red gold cases. Elizabeth Doerr likes their retro vibe very much. What do you think?
Time+Tide
It takes an iron will to walk past an A. Lange & Söhne dealer without losing a few minutes of your day. The German masters ensure their collections soar above the competition, bewitching onlookers and dominating wish-lists around the world. If you’re lucky, dead in the centre of the captivating display will be a Zeitwerk … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Czapek & Cie presents the Quai des Bergues “Sursum Corda” – a unique piece created to celebrate the 175th anniversary and offers to uplift the spirit.
Time+Tide
I still get lost in the details of the Rolex Submariner that was my first serious watch. The proportions of its features seem divinely inspired, everything ideally sized and placed. Its glossy black dial is startling to look at, somehow bottled essence of the pure void. When I put it on, the oyster bracelet, in … ContinuedThe post In defence of obvious watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
When applied to watches, “bespoke” brings to mind the ultra-complicated timepieces made for famous historical figures like James W. Packard and Henry Graves Jr., who each commissioned a succession of one-off watches that pushed the technical boundaries of watchmaking in the early decades of the 20th century. One of those watches, the landmark Patek Philippe “Supercomplication” made for Graves, long held the title of most-expensive-watch ever sold. In the modern day, watchmakers continue to create unique watches. Patek Philippe does it quietly for its best clients, while Vacheron Constantin is more public with its Atelier Cabinotiers department that specialises in customised timepieces. Similarly, artisanal independent watchmakers like Voutilainen often accept commissions. But as a collector, how easy is it to dip your toes into the waters of bespoke or custom watchmaking? This is my maiden experience with such watches, which started at Andersen Geneve some six years ago. Svend at work Industrial vs. artisanal I first wanted to get involved in the creation of a custom watch in 2014. I already knew then it could not merely be changing colours on the dial or hands, neither could it be an engraved monogram. What I wanted was a truly unique world-time watch with a Louis Cottier-type mechanism. At the same time, I had a certain budget in mind, so I approached independent watchmakers that made watches I liked, but with steel cases. Somewhat naively, I thought adding a ti...
Quill & Pad
Ah, gift giving! If there’s another ostensibly positive activity so burdened with the risk of a negative outcome, GaryG has yet to find it. And a watch that looks like a skull for a special present isn't perhaps a conventional choice, but he had no doubt that this particular skull would receive an enthusiastic reception. Find out why right here.
Quill & Pad
Elizabeth Doerr is currently enjoying watching 'The Last Dance' miniseries about Michael Jordan's career, and even more so thanks to glimpses of the great watches she keeps spying as the series progresses. She's only two episodes in at present, but what grabbed her right from the first minutes was the fact that both Jordan and Bulls forward Scottie Pippen are wearing large, noticeable watches by Roger Dubuis. Find out which ones here.
Hodinkee
The new Hi-Beat caliber offers the first new series-produced escapement in over two decades.
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