Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet's New 38mm Royal Oak And Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendars
Sometimes big news comes in a small package.
Hodinkee
Sometimes big news comes in a small package.
Quill & Pad
The Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair has closed its doors, so it's time to examine the facts and figures, highlights, trends, and what this might mean for the future of an industry that has been doing considerable head-scratching lately.
Deployant
We were invited by the Czech Embassy of Singapore to participate in a glass blowing activity at local maker's studio Tombalek.
Monochrome
MeisterSinger is well known for its single-handed collections with popular lines like ?01 & ?03 and Neo with their classic styling and accessible prices. The latest Pangaea Aventurine model takes the best of the above collections and adds a starry nighttime vibe and a stylised, classic needle-shaped hand (the latter from the 365 series). The […]
Fratello
You could qualify a town with just 929 inhabitants as sleepy. Villeret, in the Swiss canton of Bern, is indeed quiet. It’s stuck between two mountain ridges in the Jura, and apart from a pizzeria that serves Dutch beer instead of Swiss for some reason, the isolated place looks pretty much timeless. Still, time plays […] Visit Experiencing The Ultra-Limited And Complicated Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Around The World In 80 Days Limited Edition – Chapter Three In Villeret to read the full article.
Revolution
Time+Tide
The BB58 is almost perfect, except for one crucial detail - but here's how to fix it.The post The minor upgrade that sealed the deal on the Tudor Black Bay 58 for me appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
There were few brands as hot as Panerai in the 2000s, and now the brand is revisiting its glory days with the Luminor Marina Militare 44 mm PAM05218. Visually, the PAM05218 a faithful remake of the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A of 1993, a “Pre-Vendome” model that became one of the most desirable watches of the 2000s. The watch retains the same design and many of the details, including the “non matching” hands, but has been upgraded with modern amenities, including a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating for the case and a three-day movement. Initial thoughts Enthusiasts who were in the hobby in the 2000s will remember the frenzy around Panerai, which was probably the fastest growing brand during the period. Many models sold over retail, sometimes for multiples. The “vintage” models like the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A were even more valuable; it cost a healthy, mid-five figures at the time. In fact, the ref. 5218-202/A cost more than an F.P. Journe Resonance at the time. In retrospect, most of it was comical yet also seems familiar given the happenings in recent years. Times have changed, but the PAM05218 is essentially unchanged from the original – which is great for those who appreciate the functional, stark design of Panerai’s core models. I like those designs, and I like the PAM05218. If there’s one Panerai in the current catalogue I would buy, it is this one. At a distance, the PAM05218 is indistinguishable from the original, but up close it is clearly a new watc...
Monochrome
Exactly one year ago, Rolex, with the help of author Nicholas Foulkes and publisher Wallpaper, took us by surprise when releasing the first-ever Crown-authorised book, The History of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Watch. While such initiatives have been done on multiple occasions by other brands, a historical book receiving the stamp of approval of Rolex […]
Time+Tide
Bulgari collaborates with Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan on an eye-catching Octo Finissimo with a hand-filled titanium case.The post Bulgari & Lee Ufan scratch out a new look for the Octo Finissimo (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Citizen marks 30 years of its up-market The Citizen collection with two limited-edition watches featuring washi paper dials inspired by Japanese nature. Both use solar-powered quartz movements accurate to ±5 seconds per year, housed in titanium cases treated with ultra-hard Duratect coatings. Initial Thoughts Citizen’s somewhat clumsily named The Citizen sub-brand is 30 years old but little known outside Japan and enthusiast circles. Most The Citizen watches are distinguishable by an eagle crest on the dial, as well as their obvious quality. While the line has since grown to include mechanical watches, which are quite good, it remains a quartz-first brand – which is good as its quartz offerings are excellent and amongst the most advanced in the world. While often compared to the Grand Seiko cal. 9F models, The Citizen’s quartz offerings have more functions, and thus have more in common with the three-hand Seiko Astron 3X models, or Casio’s premium G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power saving made which pauses the hands to save energy while not in use, like F.P. Journe’s Elegante. But unlike GPS-reliant Astrons and G-Shocks, Citizen’s high end quartz movements are fully autonomous, and accurate to within five seconds per year with a maximum deviation of two seconds per month during normal use. More important still, The Citizen’s traditionally styled offerings are much easier on the eyes than any G-Shock or modern Astron, stri...
Fratello
Another Friday, another top 5. During and after last week’s Geneva Watch Days (GWD), we covered plenty of exciting releases here on Fratello. Some of the watches that always grab our attention during GWD are the crazy collaborations. Last year, we saw the incredible collaborative effort of Studio Underd0g and H. Moser & Cie. that […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Watch Collaborations to read the full article.
Monochrome
If there were a concise guide to the latest trends in watchmaking, it would likely feature compact unisex case sizes, vibrant colours and stone dials. Bang on trend, Audemars Piguet’s latest trilogy of compact 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models flaunts vibrant-coloured stone dials sourced from around the world. As part of the brand’s […]
Revolution
Fratello
The world of horology is an emotional parallel universe where those who love watches can make them their livelihood. Now, it seems that watch brands, organizations, and media have realized that this universe can only continue to exist if the knowledge and appreciation of it continue to grow and evolve. Marc André Deschoux, who started […] Visit Get Ready For MACH: A Place To Showcase Horological Heritage, Transmit Know-How, And Raise Awareness to read the full article.
SJX Watches
While the industry resumes normal operations following Geneva Watch Days, we’re taking a quick detour to the Italy to see what Ondřej Berkus has been up to. The Deadbeat Seconds 2.0 is the latest delivery from the self-taught watchmaker and is a good example of how far his watchmaking has come in recent years. As the name suggests, the DS 2.0 is the second watch Mr Berkus has made in this style, but like all of his creations, the two are remarkably different in execution. Initial thoughts There’s a reassuring degree of predictability to the luxury watch industry. It’s a conservative industry built on tradition, which reinforces unspoken norms about what counts as a high end watch. The result is conformity; most watchmakers march to a similar beat and stick to their respective niches. This uniformity helps customers understand the products, but as a consequence many of the products can be criticised as homogenous and impersonal. In contrast, the watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus is refreshingly human. He has no formal website, and conducts business via Instagram. He does not release collections, and no two pieces are entirely alike; each watch is created in dialogue with a collector. A self-taught watchmaker, Mr Berkus manages to pull this off thanks in part to his distinctive approach to finishing. While most contemporary independent watchmakers focus on simple movements executed to a high level, Mr Berkus flips the script, and strives to deliver watches that are unique...
Worn & Wound
Most recently, in our ongoing series of events at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom, we partnered with Paulin to celebrate the launch of their first dive watch: the Mara. The Scottish brand’s latest release is a rugged, spec-heavy timepiece built for daily adventures and more demanding expeditions. Paulin chose our showroom for its laid-back atmosphere, reputation within the NYC watch community, and its ability to host both hands-on watch time and intimate Q&As;-an opportunity they fully embraced. The evening began with the public unveiling of the Mara, a 300-meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm across. Its robust case features lugs that angle inward for a distinctive stance, while the playful, geometric hour markers give the dial a unique personality. The Mara comes in blue or black, each paired with a domed sapphire bezel-bright blue for the former, a ghostly grey for the latter. Both drew plenty of admiration from attendees. The room was set with imagery from Scotland’s beaches, Land Rovers, and underwater scenes, complemented by a Bruichladdich whisky tasting station. Guests mingled with Paulin designer Katie Muir and Jason Heaton-diver, journalist, podcaster (The Grey NATO), author (The Tusker Novels), and Explorers Club member-who had field-tested the Mara on Scotland’s rugged shores and starred in the watch’s launch campaign. After plenty of whisky and watch talk, Jason sat down with Worn & Wound’s Head of Partnerships, Kyle Sna...
Monochrome
If he had already spent years working for some of the biggest names in the watch industry, Sylvain Berneron truly made a name for himself on the independent watchmaking scene in 2023 with the launch of the first watch under his own brand. The unapologetically elegant and original Mirage – a shaped watch with an […]
Worn & Wound
Almost as soon as Grand Seiko released the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches & Wonders 2024, we started to wonder what this new class of manually wound dress watch from one of our favorite brands might look like in different variants. This seemed like a natural platform for expansion, and we figured it was just a matter of time before we saw some alternative dial options and new metals. In the year and a half or so since Grand Seiko introduced these watches, and the 9SA4 caliber powering them, things have been quiet on the manually wound dress watch front. That is, until this week, when we finally got a peek at the new SLGW007, Grand Seiko’s first new launch with this case and movement since the big debut at Watches & Wonders last year. While the most obvious update on the surface here is certainly the new dark blue dial, it’s actually the case itself that really has my interest. The SLGW003, you’ll recall, was crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This is a very cool material, for sure, but has a niche appeal in a classically styled dress watch like this thanks to its ultra light weight and the associations we all have with titanium and tool watches. The SLGW007 is in stainless steel, and I’m incredibly curious to see how this might change the character of the watch on the wrist. One would certainly expect it to be a bit heavier, but I imagine the finishing will also have a slightly different, perhaps more traditional look to it, at least in the con...
Time+Tide
Enamel over hand‑guilloché pairs with miniature grand feu enamel horse art.The post Jaeger‑LeCoultre brings Xu Beihong’s horses to the Reverso in enamel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
An eBay find that turned into a 25 year hunt for an answer.
Worn & Wound
Last week, DOXA unveiled an update to one of their most popular references – the SUB 750T. First introduced in 2002, the 750T was conceived as a diver’s companion with oversized proportions, professional-level depth rating, and (due to its large size) a real presence on the wrist. Nearly two decades later, the newest iteration of the SUB 750T arrives with a familiar profile, but maybe a bit more pared down – and upgraded – than its predecessor. Like I said, this is a big watch. Clocking in at 45mm across and 47mm lug-to-lug, this isn’t a watch that’s going to be demurely tucked under your shirt sleeve. Even so, DOXA has counterbalanced the size by reducing the model to just under 12mm in height. In contrast, the original reference clocked in at 14mm; and while you may not think that the 2mm differential would be noticeable–trust us, it is. That reduction takes away some of the added bulk that makes such a large watch just feel overwhelming and makes the DOXA SUB 750T that much more wearable. It’s not just the case size which has been improved, DOXA added eight colorways (Professional Orange, Sharkhunter Black, Whitepearl White, Searambler Silver Grey, Caribbean Navy Blue, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, and the new Sea Emerald Dark Green) to this particular model. Each is available on either a rubber strap color-matched to the dial or the brand’s classic beads of rice bracelet, making for 16 total options to choose from. On the technical side...
Deployant
Presenting Louis Moinet's Geveva Watch Days release. It's their second integrated bracelet watch, the Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d'Observatoire.
Hodinkee
More price increases are coming, including Patek, MB&F;, and Moser, executives say, without a better U.S. tariff deal.
Monochrome
To say that the perpetual calendar complication reverts great importance to Audemars Piguet, specifically in the context of the Royal Oak, would be an understatement. Earlier this year, in the frame of its 150th anniversary, the Le Brassus-based brand released two important new models, built around an unprecedented movement (calibre 7138): the new generation of […]
Fratello
Last October, Urwerk revealed the new UR-150 line. The Scorpion Titan and Scorpion Dark were immediately recognizable as Urwerk creations. Certain traits, including satellite hours and retrograde minutes, were all present on the initial pieces. Now, nearly a year later, the new UR-150 Blue Scorpion becomes the next model in the collection. Last week, during […] Visit Introducing: The New Urwerk UR-150 Blue Scorpion to read the full article.
Fratello
Unfortunately, one of our friends was robbed of several watches. Without going into detail about what happened, we will share the list of stolen watches along with their serial numbers (if known) below. This list aims to alert collectors, dealers, and private buyers so that these timepieces can be recognized if offered for sale. If […] Visit Stolen Watch Alert: A List Of Timepieces To Watch Out For to read the full article.
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