Latest watch news · Page 310

A year ago, we covered a self-taught watchmaker who built his first piece by watch, Dewey Vicknair. Now the American gunsmith has completed his second watch, a regulator with a jump hour function that’s once again hand-made. He published a comprehensive photo essay detailing the steps in manufacturing the watch, which is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in a contemporary, yet fully manual watchmaking process.  Initial thoughts The story of Mr. Vicknair is unlike most independent watchmakers. Now in his mid-fifties, he long ago built his reputation as a maker and restorer of firearms before turning to watchmaking. Self-taught, Mr. Vicknair is definitely a quick study; he adapted his metal-working skills to horology and produced his first watch swiftly. Even more interesting, perhaps, is the way he creates his own tooling. From a vertical drill press to various cutters and even custom tweezers for bending the hairspring overcoil, Mr. Vicknair seems able to build any tool to cater to his requirements.  Artisanal watchmakers usually use restored vintage machines when making watches, but it is very rare that they develop the tools themselves. Mr. Vicknair’s extensive experience as a gunsmith gives him an excellent understanding of machinery that cannot simply be taught in watchmaking schools. His work is clearly that of a very talented mechanical craftsman who just happens to have mastered watchmaking – after having mastered gunsmithing.  The watch itself is pre...

CIGA Design produces watches that are different from the norm. It’s immediately apparent that this isn’t the typical timekeeper with central hour and minute hands. The round, UFO-like cases also stand out in a futuristic way. Now we see two new models that represent a departure from prior pieces. The Legend of Serpent editions use […] Visit Introducing: The New CIGA Design Legend Of Serpent to read the full article.

The first mechanical chronograph to be publicly offered by Unimatic is a collaboration with Canadian menswear retailer Henry Singer.

Longines continues to expand their Zulu Time collection with the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Never one to shy away from an anniversary, the latest version of the Longines travel watch celebrates the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first watch to display dual time zones. These early dual time zone watches featured colorful representations of maritime flags referencing the letter “Z”, a nod to the time at the zero meridian in Greenwich. The “Z” designation ultimately led to pilots referencing “Zulu time” when referring to time at the zero meridian, an important concept when traveling across time zones. The modern renditions of the Zulu Time watches are completely distinct from their historical counterparts in terms of their design and aesthetics, but for Longines their intent seems to be to recreate the adventurous spirit of those watches in a modern package. All of the Zulu Time watches to this point have straddled the line between a clear vintage inspiration and contemporary design tropes, resulting in watches that have a classic everyday appeal.  Last year, I reviewed the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium, which simply by virtue of the material used felt like the most contemporary iteration of the Zulu Time yet. I really enjoyed my time with that watch and felt that Longines really nailed the proportions, with a case just under 40mm that was also not too long from lug to lug. The new 1925 version of the Zulu Time is perhaps best thought of as the inverse o...

For a retro-styled chronograph, the beauty lies in mechanical and historical details. With the new Chronographe Télémètre, Angelus again reaches into its storied archives to recreate the past and distil its essence into a remarkably fresh and undeniably refined timepiece. The latest addition to the La Fabrique collection, the Chronographe Télémètre debuts in three variations: […]

Total exports climb 18%, but would have fallen 6% without record U.S. rush.

Ever since its introduction, the Formex Field Automatic has been a favorite of enthusiasts in search of a modern twist on the tried and true field watch. At the same time, it also felt a little like an outlier in the Formex collection. For a brand that has built a reputation on clever manufacturing innovations, the Field was remarkably simple and, for Formex, pretty subdued. That’s the nature, though, of a field watch, and at the end of the day, Formex’s version of it has always been a well made, if rudimentary, take on the genre. For the Field Automatic Gen 2, Formex has mostly stuck with what worked with the first Field, but upped the complexity of the dial and, as you’d expect, added some new colors to the collection.  Available in three colors (Ice Blue, Coho Salmon, and Basalt Grey), the new dial design adds considerable depth and texture to the experience of the Formex Field. Each dial is constructed from two parts, a center section with a sunburst finish and a sloped minute track that gives the dial what the brand refers to as a “saucer-like” profile. Adding to the perception of depth on the new dials is an hour track positioned between the minute track and central section with a contrasting smooth texture and recessed, stenciled, lume filled numerals. Formex’s stated goal here is to create a three dimensional effect, something that we don’t normally associate with the typically “flat” dials of most field watches.  The case is unchanged from the ...

With a few small tweaks and a splash of bright colour, Seiko brings back the 7002 to the 5KX. The post A quartet of new Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series models brings back the 7002 diver, kinda appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We have come to know Sternglas as a brand that predominantly creates watches within the minimalist Bauhaus style. Over the past couple of years, though, we have seen the brand push the boundaries of that aesthetic. One of the leading examples is the brand’s Berlin model. While the watch still ticks quite a few of […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Dial Variations Of The Sternglas Berlin to read the full article.

The Le Brassus-based watchmaker is celebrating the opening of a new boutique with a weekend of fun in NYC.

Ten years ago, Omega introduced the Globemaster, the Seamaster 300 Spectre edition, and the white-dial Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 45th Anniversary limited edition. That year, Omega focused primarily on the Spectre and the Snoopy, neglecting to give the Globemaster the attention it deserved. Additionally, the Sedna (rose) Gold Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) did […] Visit One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space to read the full article.

Released at Watches & Wonders Geneva 25, here is our review of the new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575.

“The Greatest Collectors of All Time” is a series of features that will look at what drives a collector to collect and how they go about seeking out items they want for their collections. Here we look back through time to highlight the greatest horological collectors and showcase their particular area and passion for collecting. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) was one of the most notable horological collectors of all time. He had the wealth, passion and enthusiasm that enabled him to amass an immense and varied collection. This was at a formative time when many unrecognized horological gems were coming to the market due to a developing appreciation of technical horology and world circumstances. His collection, known as the Ilbert Collection, included an impressive array of timepieces from the 16th century to his time, featuring some of the rarest and most exquisite watches, clocks, and horological instruments. Professionally, Ilbert was an engineer, and his technical knowledge informed his horological expertise. His engineering insights helped him appreciate the intricate workings of the timepieces he collected and restored. He was an extremely fine craftsman taking infinite patience in the matter of restoration and repair. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) Born in Reading, Berkshire during the Victorian era, on the 22nd April 1888, his family background provided him with the stability and resources to pursue an excellent education. From a young age, Ilbert ...

A young French brand, Awake Watches was founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019 with the idea to raise awareness of our planet’s limited resources. From there, the brand diversified with NASA-themed models or watches with a dial inspired by the natural geometry of a sunflower. Last year, Awake released Son Mài, its first permanent collection […]

Breitling launches a premium limited edition 24-hour Navitimer in platinum to celebrate astronaut Scott Carpenter and the first Swiss wristwatch in space.

Awake has a hit on its hands with the Sơn Mài watches. The pieces, which feature traditional Vietnamese lacquerware dials, are hot! Now the latest batch of limited-edition releases is here. The Frosted Leaf collection consists of three models, all containing dials inspired by a view of Earth’s surface from space. It’s been a whirlwind […] Visit Hands-On With The Awake Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Collection to read the full article.

May 1st, 2025, marked exactly 100 years since the late astronaut Scott Carpenter was born. During the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission in 1962, he orbited Earth three times. He did so while wearing a one-of-a-kind Breitling Navitimer that he ordered from Willy Breitling. He asked for a Navitimer with a wider bezel, a stretch bracelet, and […] Visit Celebrating Scott Carpenter’s Centenary With The Limited-Edition Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute In Platinum to read the full article.

We pick the best watches under $500 - how hard could it be?The post The best watches under $500, from sturdy stocking dailies to retro throwbacks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In 2014, Arnold & Son marked 250 years of John Arnold’s horological legacy with the debut of the Double Tourbillon Escapement, a timepiece that introduced a mechanically ambitious concept: two independent time displays, each driven by its gear train and regulated by its tourbillon. This duality, both technical and aesthetic, was made possible through separate […]

Podium finish in Monaco, and a serious timekeeper on the wrist.The post Charles Leclerc’s new RM 72-01 is his next collab with long-time supporter Richard Mille appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Following the detonation of Hublot’s extroverted Big Bang chronograph in 2005, the collection gradually expanded with several sub-families unified by their bold designs and distinctive fusion of materials. A couple of these sub-collections, like the Spirit of Big Bang with its tonneau-shaped case and the more recent Square Bang, departed from the round shape of […]

Raymond Weil seems to be on a bit of a roll. The Millesime collection is broadly loved and appreciated, and these new Freelancers hit the spot too. Today, I go hands-on with two versions of the new Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar. I got to spend some time with the steel blue-dial version on the […] Visit Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar to read the full article.

It’s Memorial Day Weekend, the unofficial start of summer. You know what that means: it’s time to talk summer watches. We’re not really sure when the “Summer Watch” concept began in earnest, but every year, the community’s thoughts collectively turn to seasonally appropriate watches for the hot and sticky months. Are summer watches a watch media invention? It’s possible. But there’s no denying that some watches just work better in the warmer, sunnier weather. We’d never say you can’t wear a precious metal watch dress watch on a glossy leather strap in the middle of July, but somehow we all seem to know that a lightweight diver on a rubber strap just makes more sense. Here then, are the watches we anticipate getting the most time on our wrists this summer. Feel free to chime in in the comments below to let us know what you expect to be wearing most as the summer heat sets in. Devin Pennypacker A go-to summer watch could really only mean one thing to me, it’s dive watch season. Truthfully, it’s always dive watch season for me, but at least during this time of year, I have some justification. More likely than not, if you run into me this summer baking like a lizard on the beach, jumping through the cold waves like a child, or taking in some fresh air, prolonging my time in the park, I’ll most likely be wearing my Omega Planet Ocean 2200.50. I am sure I just shocked everyone with that out-of-character pick.  Sure, I could have selected any dive watch...

Pascal Raffy’s acquisition of the historical Swiss watch brand Bovet in 2001 was accompanied by an ambitious dream of reviving the brand as a temple of decorative arts and Haute Horlogerie. Towering above conventional watchmakers with its complex in-house movements, dramatically staged complications, and lavish artistic flourishes, Bovet’s watches are as unique as they are […]

Plastic doesn't have to equal cheap - here are the watches to prove it.The post Plastic fantastic: the 8 best plastic watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It's Memorial Day here in the U.S.A., so here's a look back at some HODINKEE classics.