Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Grail-Level Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, A Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar, And A Neo-Vintage Daniel Roth Chronograph
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's what's selling where column.
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's what's selling where column.
Monochrome
Arnold & Son’s obsession with the Moon has materialised in different models, revealing our neighbouring satellite in its most spectacular form. Starting with the Perpetual Moon of 2013 with its enormous moon, followed by the Double Hemisphere Perpetual with two large moons and culminating with the 2021 Luna Magna with one of the largest spherical […]
Worn & Wound
Considered one of the finest menswear retailers on the planet, The Armoury has been dressing men since its inception in 2010. Since then, it’s grown to become as much a store as a brand itself. Under the discerning eye of founder Mark Cho, every element of The Armoury is a considered approach to traditional, classic, and lasting style. It’s no wonder, then, that their latest release, in partnership with Italian brand UNIMATIC, would hold these same values. The UNIMATIC x The Armoury Modello Cinque U5S-TA ‘Blu Notte’ is a timepiece that balances classic design elements without ever veering into the fussy – while also being incredibly contemporary in its approach to creating a timepiece for today as well as tomorrow. Designed to be a daily wear watch, this watch has just enough design elements to keep the eye interested without veering into being ostentatious. For instance, the rich blue dial is a perfect neutral, while the concentric circles pressed into the dial give it a bit of depth. This is then offset against a cool grey seconds rail and dial trims, and all brought together with white hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova for visibility in a variety of conditions (like, say, cocktails in your best suit). The watch comes with a ‘Blu Notte’ tapered quick-release two-piece TPU strap and a nylon strap is also included for more versatility. Within the 36mm stainless steel case is an automatic caliber Sellita SW200-1b, promising approximately 41...
Monochrome
The latest oil-filled mechanical wonder from Ressence features a blacked-out theme that’s aesthetically similar to the limited Type 3 BBB from 2022, but a splash of dial colour was added for contrast. Unlike the standard Type 3 Black, the watch is in full stealth mode with a black DLC-coated case that merges with the glossy […]
Hodinkee
So thin they needed to create a new kind of strap...
Fratello
Both Frederique Constant and Alpina grace us with multiple releases during Geneva Watch Days 2024. Alpina adds a skeletonized version of its Alpiner Extreme to the lineup and surprises us with classic silhouettes joining the Heritage collection. Frederique Constant focuses on the Classics line with a tourbillon and a moonphase model, both with spectacular dials. […] Visit Frederique Constant And Alpina Introduce A Variety Of Models During Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.
Revolution
Monochrome
Inspired by a famous pocket watch made in 1889, Girard-Perregaux regularly plays around with its signature-shaped bridges. One of the manufacture’ most fascinating pieces that take notes from this early GP creation, is the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. From every angle, it’s a highly fascinating piece to behold. The curved crystals, the swooping black […]
SJX Watches
Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...
Revolution
Monochrome
Gerald Charles, a brand founded by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000, has made a convincing comeback under Federico Ziviani’s leadership. The revival began in 2020 with the reintroduction of a distinctive 2006 Genta design, the unique Maestro Anniversary case, paired with a moulded rubber strap. Several iterations of the Maestro have been […]
Fratello
Doxa is always one of the brands we keep a close eye on when Geneva Watch Days rolls around. This year, the brand has not disappointed with two major pieces of news. The first is a new left-hand-drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera. The second is the collection-wide rollout of the “Sea Emerald” green colorway. The […] Visit Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having released Chinese Zodiac editions annually for the past 12 years, Vacheron Constantin presents the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Snake”. The serpent is the sixth Chinese zodiac sign for the upcoming year that begins with the Chinese New Year on January 29, 2025. Available in pink gold or platinum, the new zodiac edition illustrates the brand’s metiers d’art expertise with hand-engraving and enamelling on a dial that depicts a cobra. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin has developed a niche with its Métiers d’Art offerings, some of which, like the Wind God and Thunder God pair of repeaters, are exceptional. The Zodiac series is more accessible than the repeaters, but still relies on Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre with a unique display that indicates the time and calendar in windows, leaving the dial free for artisanal decoration. The quality of work on the dial is high, although the snake is not a universally loved creature, unlike say the dragon, which will limit the appeal of this particular edition. The king of snakes The snake edition employs the same case as last zodiac models, which measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.72 mm in thickness. The movement also remains the same cal. 2460 G4 with a window-based display. Instead of traditional hands, the watch displays the time, date, and day of the week through four windows on the dial. The apertures at 11 and one o’clock indicate the hours and minutes, whereas tho...
SJX Watches
Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...
Fratello
Christopher Ward might have another hit on its hands. The brand’s new C60 Trident Lumière is an impressive titanium dive watch with a dial that cranks legibility in the dark up to 11. And that’s not the entire story. This new addition to the Christopher Ward collection perfectly blends specs with looks, which is why […] Visit Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière - A Titanium Dive Watch That Takes Lume To The Next Level to read the full article.
Monochrome
Frederique Constant has updated its Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with a premium 18k white gold case and green malachite dial that’s being released in limited numbers. It’s aesthetically similar to the British racing green (dial) steel variant from a few months ago, but is now much more premium with the change in materials. The watch […]
Time+Tide
Boasting a titanium case and a trio of retro dial finishes, the C60 Trident Lumière combines tool watch bona fides with on-point vibes.The post The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière is the brand’s most refined dive watch yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The ThinKing required all of the master watchmaker's genius to make it the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, which measures just 1.65mm.The post Konstantin Chaykin’s ingenious ThinKing is the new thinnest watch in the world, kind of appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If you like watches at all, you have certainly seen wristshots and perhaps you have even posted a few of your own. Like the selfie, wristshots seem to be ubiquitous these days. But where did wristshots come from, why do they exist, and what are the pitfalls to look out for? GaryG shares a few tips on what he has learned works and what doesn't.
Fratello
In the 1999 movie The Talented Mr. Ripley, the character Dickie Greenleaf, who takes over Tom Ripley’s life, says, “‘See Venice and die,’ is what they say? Or is it Rome?” Well, Dickie, the city you’re looking for is Naples. But I have to admit I also thought Goethe once wrote that it was Venice. I […] Visit The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Venice Series” - Three Monet-Inspired Watches From The Métiers Rares Atelier to read the full article.
Monochrome
Handwerkskunst… If you know one thing or two about A. Lange & Söhne, you’ll understand that this slightly complex word for anyone not German is actually sweet to hear – to make it simple, it does translate by craftsmanship. What it means is rare watches, but mostly finishings and decorations of the highest rank. For […]
Revolution
Hodinkee
A surprise release continues the celebration for 25 years of the Datograph.
SJX Watches
For the milestone anniversary of its famed chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne hasn’t held back on commemorative editions. Starting with the Datograph Up/Down in blue and then the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”, the German brand now concludes the anniversary with the third and final celebratory edition, the Datograph Handwerkskunst. A finely executed watch that will instinctively appeal to Lange fans, the yellow gold Datograph Handwerkskunst is unsurprising given the occasion. And like past Handwerkskunst editions – this is the eighth watch in the Handwerkskunst series – it is relatively inaccessible: the watch is limited to just 25 pieces and substantially pricier than the regular production Datograph. The L951.8 in the Datograph Handwerkskunst Initial thoughts The original Datograph set the benchmark for a high-end, classical chronograph movement when it was launched in 1999. Exceptional both aesthetically and technically, then and now, the Datograph remains equally impressive 25 years later. The Datograph Handwerkskunst has all the familiar traits that defined the model for the past 25 years. On top of that, it has an artisanally decorated dial finished with tremblage. And more significantly, the movement gets a substantial extra dose of black polishing on all the chronograph levers, enhancing an already impressive chronograph calibre. Notably, the Datograph Handwerkskunst returns to the Datograph design of 1999. The tremblage dial has the neo-c...
Deployant
Lange continues with the Datograph celebrations with the Datograph Handwerksunst edition of their iconic Datograph for Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2024.
Fratello
The Oris Aquis is one of the brand’s most successful watches. Its modern and muscular looks are a hit. No wonder the people in Hölstein put a lot of effort into bringing out new versions every so often. This April, a new version of the Oris Aquis Date was presented with updates regarding ergonomics, aesthetics, […] Visit Introducing: The Muscular New Oris Aquis Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Buffy explores a modern sailing watch, as it would have been made back in the '30s.The post Albishorn debuts with the Maxigraph, a Massena LAB collaboration in regatta regalia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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