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Watches and robots have a closer relationship than you might think. Early 18th-to-19th-century automatons were built to mimic human or animal movements and were powered by clockwork engines, not unlike those found in a complex wall or table clock. This might seem a very lateral way of introducing the Robot watch brand, but bear with […] Visit Robot Watch Adds A Customized Spin To Its Modern Designs to read the full article.

A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...

Brace yourself for guilloché dials, diamond embellishments, and funky straps, oh my!

If a tide pool at a waterpark represented the world of micro/independent watches, some brands would be the kids who sit at the edge, waiting for a wave to bowl them over, others would be the dad that overcompensates by proving he can swim all the way out to the source only before losing his trunks, and then there’s Zelos…the person who showed up in their custom Speedo and polarized purple goggles doing laps around the perimeter. If you want a quality diver, finished brilliantly, made with interesting materials, eye-popping dials, all for around $500, Zelos has you covered. However, there is another Zelos. One that lights up a cigar, slips out of their lounge sandals, and makes their way into a meticulously curated tranquility pool…but still with the purple polarized goggles. This Zelos comes around a couple times a year, playing with high-end Swiss movements and interesting complications.  The first “tranquility pool” Zelos of the year recently hit the market. They took the case from their popular Spearfish line and released the Spearfish Dual Time. Three of the five watches in the line are made of titanium and come on titanium bracelets; the remaining two have cases made from forged carbon and come on a canvas leather strap. I had the pleasure of trying out the Moonscape forged carbon model for a little over a week, and while I do have some complicated thoughts on the model itself, what is indisputable is that you’re getting lavish materials and an elaborate ...

Plus, Tom Brady and Ed Sheeran bring out some seriously cool Royal Oaks.

Over the past couple of years, plenty of watchmakers have gone above and beyond to demonstrate (and thus preserve) traditional watchmaking methods. It might be a romantic way of thinking, but we shouldn’t forget where the industry comes from and how watches were made in the old days. No CNC-machining, no computational calculations, no advanced […]

It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...

From the oil-filled 5B diver to the most playful Type 1 yet and beyond.

If only watches could tell stories! This watch, which belonged to Titanic passenger John Jacob Astor, would certainly have a story to tell. On April 14th, 1912, the RMS Titanic struck an iceberg. It was just after 11:40 that night. The ship, which had been touted as unsinkable because of the leading technology used in […] Visit A Pocket Watch Owned By A Titanic Passenger Sells At Auction to read the full article.

Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.

The Amida makes a comeback with the new Digitrend. The launch edition is known as Take-off and is a recreation of the original released in Baselworld 1979.

It’s hard not to love Max Büsser. Anyone who has met the man in person will tell you that he is a fount of enthusiasm and creativity. The watches he creates are otherworldly and fun and, like ‘em or not, his watches have helped to - alongside brands like Urwerk and watchmakers like Vianney Halter - push independent watch design to new and interesting directions in a big way. One of last year’s big releases from MB&F; (alongside the UFO-like HM11) was the HM8 Mark 2, which was initially released in June to plenty of fanfare. At the time, the watch was available in two configurations - one in white, and a limited edition of 33 in a wonderful British Racing Green. That limited edition is now long gone, and in its place, MB&F; has announced a new limited release of the HM8 Mark 2, this time in blue.  For those who may have missed it last summer, the HM8 Mark 2 is an automotive-inspired watch and an evolution of, you guessed it, the HM8 that was first released in 2016. Max Büsser - who has said time and again that he wanted to design cars long before he was interested in watches - has tapped into his affection for automobiles and racing as inspiration for a number of watches and clocks over the years, to great success. The HM8 Mark 2, and the HM8 before it, pull from this history. Racing and watches have always been linked. The simple reality is that racing without timing doesn’t really work and so, for as long as there have been cars, watchmakers have been ...

Armin Strom (1938) has gone down in the annals of watchmaking as a pioneer in the art of hand-skeletonisation. Now in the hands of Serge Michel and master watchmaker Claude Greisler, the independent watchmaking brand with 17 in-house calibres continues the master’s legacy of “transparent mechanics” with showstopping models like its Mirrored Force Resonance and […]

As a fan of Armin Strom, I have had the pleasure of reviewing many of the brand’s previous models. Back in 2019, I was following the story of the then-new Gravity Equal Force, and while the watch was and still is out of my financial reach, I was amazed by what the Biel/Bienne Maison presented […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple to read the full article.

Watch clubs are burgeoning worldwide to gather enthusiasts around a single passion: their appreciation of beautiful timepieces. We’ve seen this in all regions, such as, for instance, the Emirates Watch Club founded by Malek bin Easa. Travelling further East is the Singapore Watch Club, which was founded in 2015 and has been gathering collectors and […]

I know quite a few people who can’t wait for the return of the Swatch Neon collection, and the 1992 Grand Prix SCJ101 is the most famous of them all. Nacho is a big fan, has a few, and still wants more. RJ is also a fan but has never found one in good condition. […] Visit It’s A Bright Monday Morning With Six New Swatch Neon Watches to read the full article.

One of the most esoteric offerings in Only Watch 2024 is the Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II. A follow-up to the first edition made in 2017, the Mosaïque II sticks to the same template that was originally inspired by a 19th century pocket watch with an inlaid case. It’s essentially an F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain with a slightly larger case inlaid with semi-precious stones and a hinged hunter back. This also makes F.P. Journe the only brand with two watches – the other is the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu – in the upcoming charity auction that takes place on May 10, 2024. Initial thoughts I liked the original version because it was recognisable as an F.P. Journe watch, yet entirely different. The Mosaïque II holds the same appeal, albeit at a far higher price given the increased demand for F.P. Journe in the years since. While in 2017 one could reasonably hope to buy the first Mosaïque for a high five-figure price – in fact it sold for a trifling CHF90,000 – the Mosaïque II will almost certainly end up in the high six- or even seven figures. Affordability aside, the Mosaïque II is a little more interesting than its predecessor because of the floral motif as well as the materials; the bloodstone inlays are a particularly striking backdrop for the other stones. The inlays are also more complex, with both the dial and back inlaid with stones in a mix of shapes and sizes. A Geneva museum Located along a small street in Geneva’s Old Town is the Barbier-Mueller Mus...

Tudor recently revealed another competitively priced chronograph, this time designed for the Tudor Pro Cycling Team participating in the 2024 Giro d’Italia. The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is based on the chronograph made for the Alinghi sailing team and features the same carbon composite case. But the aesthetic is more understated, mostly black with touches of red. Initial thoughts Tudor’s recent support for the sport, including the sponsorship of its cycling team and recruitment of Swiss champion cyclist Fabian Cancellara as a brand ambassador, meant a cycling-centric watch was on the way. Although the Tudor cycling team members were issued a special-edition Black Bay Chrono last year, that watch was not available to the public. Now the team gets a new watch, which is also publicly available. In contrast to the equivalent Alinghi edition, the cycling chronograph has a more subdued, streamlined look that’s mostly monochromatic. The absence of overt cycling branding also adds to the appeal (in contrast, the Alinghi chronograph has the team branding on the inner flange). Save for the design changes, this is identical to the Alinghi edition. Unsurprisingly, the price is also similar at US$5,275. True to the brand’s ethos, the value proposition remains excellent considering the carbon composite case, high-spec movement, and overall quality. Last year’s Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” Cycling-ready The Cycling Edition is latest version...

Carl F. Bucherer embraces almost every facet of watchmaking. Operating since 1888, Carl F. Bucherer started retailing luxury watches and jewellery in Lucerne before going international. In 1919, Bucherer spotted another niche and began manufacturing its own branded watches. With a rich archive of material, Carl F. Bucherer’s Heritage collection is home to reeditions of […]

A microbrand diver is hardly anything new these days. Indonesian micro Rivelta disagrees, putting a metro twist on a staple design.The post How the Rivelta Metrodive combines urban stealthiness and diver legibility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Independent brand Petermann Bédat launched its second timepiece, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph in 2023 and it took that years GPHG prize for best chronograph. Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive into what makes it so special.

Vintage Rolex is a treasure trove for dedicated collectors. Within that little sub-universe, there are grail watches that stand out above the rest. Today, we are looking at one that is pretty high up on many aficionados’ lists. This is the Rolex Submariner ref. 6200, also known as the King Sub. My friends at Tempus […] Visit Servicing An Ultra-Rare Vintage Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 “King Sub” to read the full article.

A perfect illustration of Hublot’s extravagant style and technical proficiency, the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14 Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire boasts 336 hours of power reserve thanks to seven laterally stacked barrels working with 90° bevel gears and a helical worm screw to drive the movement. This is a new variant of an existing model, with the difference being the case crafted from transparent “water blue” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Hublot is an anomaly. It’s one of the 20 biggest watchmakers in Switzerland by revenue and boasts a vertically integrated manufactured but is often criticised for being something of a “fashion” brand by enthusiasts and non-enthusiasts alike. Part of this pushback probably stems from the brand’s entry-level watches that use inexpensive stock movements that are priced expensively for what they are. The mechanics don’t live up to the price. That reasoning is sound, but it doesn’t reflect the brand’s top-of-the-line products. Like the recent MP-10, the new MP-11 reflects Hublot’s ability in movements and materials. Its manufacture develops and produces complex in-house calibres with unique complications and novel constructions, usually presented in cases made of novel materials with distinctive aesthetics and properties. The only downside of such complications is their size. The MP-11 is enormous at 45 mm in diameter, and it isn’t even the chunkiest watch that Hublot produces. This limits its wearability and ...

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week, we take a moment to catch our breath and celebrate all the amazing releases this past month. April alone, even outside of Watches & Wonders, has been a fantastic month in regards to new watches, and if this is any indication for what the rest of the year brings, we couldn’t be more excited. Without further ado, here is your weekly Roundup of some of our favorites.  Note: As we are hosting our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, please be advised that all orders placed between April 30th (after 2 pm EST) to May 6th will ship starting May 7th. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing bel...

Today, we focus on the grand old maisons? The big boys, so to speak Here are our top pick of six watches from the largest Swiss houses.

It wouldn’t be an unfounded opinion to say that vintage reissues have become a bit stale after a decade of non-stop re-releases. Sure, vintage watches are fantastic, and new watches with vintage looks? Debatably even better. So when TAG Heuer released the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox at last year’s Watches and Wonders, it had a raucous … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.