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Power Reserve

How long a fully wound mechanical watch runs; 40h entry, 72h modern, 50d record.

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Citizen Jun 12, 2024

Get Personal and Purposeful with the Father’s Day Gift Guide from Citizen

With Father’s Day right around the corner, it’s a good time to reflect about what it is we love about our dads, grandpas, and chosen family. They show up for us at our low points and help celebrate our highs. With the seasons heating up (at least on this half of the hemisphere), Father’s Day can be a great time to get outside with the dads in your life and show them you appreciate what you have built together. In honor of dads, Citizen and Worn & Wound put together a Father’s Day themed gift guide, featuring purposeful and powerful gifts to celebrate your relationships and the endless possibilities you can achieve because of them. For a Dad that’s not like all the other dads, give him a watch that stands out in a crowd. The newest addition to the stylish “Tsuyosa” automatics collection, the “Tsuyosa” Small Second brings an impressive amount of sophistication in a sleek 40mm footprint. With a silver-tone stainless steel case and quickly-interchangeable bracelet, the watch can dress up and down for any occasion. The recessed 4 o’clock crown position keeps additional focus on the robust dial which includes a textured pattern, a contrasting 6 o’clock seconds counter, and additional silver-tone details to keep the watch seamlessly attractive. With an in-house Citizen Caliber 8322 movement capable of a 60-hour power reserve, the “Tsuyosa” is available in Gray, Green, or Blue starting at $550. The post Get Personal and Purposeful with the Father’s Day ...

RGM Unveils the Model 25 “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” SJX Watches
RGM Jun 11, 2024

RGM Unveils the Model 25 “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)”

RGM Watch Co. recently bestowed an artisanal touch on its time-only Model 25 with the “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” with a mother-of-pearl dial featuring a miniature painting that reproduces a drawing from John James Audubon’s famous book of the same name. Notably, the Birds of America is also equipped with an ETA calibre upgraded by RGM to have a power reserve that’s 30% longer. Initial thoughts RGM was historically a guilloche specialist – notably the brand does traditional engine turning in house – so the Birds of America is a logical diversification that continues the brand’s speciality. Though the artisan responsible for the miniature painting is unnamed, the dial is impressively rendered with a skilful depiction of the bird. The details of the ibis are practically as vivid as in Audubon’s illustration. Interestingly, the Birds of America is not merely a stylistic exercise. A significant feature is the upgraded ETA 2892 inside that has a 53-56 hour power reserve,  a significant enhancement over the standard 44 hours, which was achieved with in-house upgrades according to RGM.  This release is priced at U$17,900, and comparable commissions depicting others birds from Audubon’s book will cost similar. It’s more affordable than comparable watches from established Swiss brands, making it a relatively good value proposition. After Audubon The latest release is based on a plate depicting the glossy ibis in The Birds of America, the landmark work by...

Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci Worn & Wound
Jun 6, 2024

Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci

Hodinkee and Parisian concept shop Merci have just released the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition for Hodinkee for their second collaboration together. You’re undoubtedly familiar with Hodinkee, but for those uninitiated to the Marais-based store, Merci embodies Parisian chic while offering a curated selection of products ranging from home goods to fashion. Through its subsidiary brand, Merci Instruments, the company combines a lighthearted approach to watchmaking with an eye towards the past for inspiration.  The design of the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition reflects a vintage aesthetic reminiscent of 1940s dress watches. Unlike traditional round or square cases, this watch features an octagon-shaped frame, adding a modern twist to its classic inspiration. The 36mm case exhibits multiple layers of depth, with a brushed steel rehaut, an anthracite grey hour track, and a vertically brushed center. Notable design details include the blue-painted seconds hand and the NYC and Paris markings at the 6 o’clock position. The watch is completed with an 18mm Honey Brown leather strap, which softens the angular features of this watch. The Beaumarchais H02 is equipped with the ultra-thin Miyota 9039 automatic caliber, which offers a 42-hour power reserve and ensures the 36mm case remains a sleek 9.8mm thick. The stainless steel 316L case is durable and water-resistant up to 10 ATM while the watch is also equipped with a sapphire crystal, making...

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar Jun 5, 2024

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition

Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve. Initial thoughts Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet. Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1. Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment. The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range. Bang for your buck The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time a...

This Year’s Oris Hölstein Edition is Here Worn & Wound
Oris Hölstein Edition Jun 4, 2024

This Year’s Oris Hölstein Edition is Here

This year, Oris is celebrating its 120th anniversary with the release of a special edition timepiece, the Hölstein Edition 2024. Founded in the small village of Hölstein in 1904, Oris has built a legacy of creating high-quality mechanical watches with a devoted fan base that has been steadily growing over the last few years. This new release, a black-on-black Divers Sixty-Five, is an anniversary present Oris is giving itself, showing the subtlety and sophistication  of the Swiss brand. The Hölstein Edition 2024 stands out with its distinctive design, marking the first time Oris has ventured into a full black-on-black aesthetic. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case, bezel, and crown, all plated in black DLC. The hands, hour markers, dial text, date wheel, and lume are also rendered in black, complementing the overall monochromatic theme. The modern design is completed with a black rubber strap and a black-DLC-plated buckle. In terms of functionality and specifications, the Hölstein Edition 2024 is powered by the Oris Calibre 400. This in-house automatic movement boasts a five-day power reserve and superior anti-magnetic properties, ensuring reliable performance. As with previous Hölstein Edition releases, the caseback features an image of the Oris Bear, this time clad in swim trunks. The watch is water-resistant up to 10 bar (100 meters), making it suitable for various aquatic activities. Limited to just 250 pieces on a first-come-first-serve basis, the Höl...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

Hanhart Marks an Important Aviation Anniversary with their Latest Release Worn & Wound
May 28, 2024

Hanhart Marks an Important Aviation Anniversary with their Latest Release

In honor of the 50th anniversary of the Tornado aircraft’s maiden flight, Hanhart, in collaboration with PANAVIA Aircraft, created the 417 ES Tornado Limited Edition. This exclusive timepiece, limited to just 148 pieces, is a tribute to the historic first flight on August 14, 1974. The Tornado aircraft, a symbol of European defense cooperation, took to the skies for the first time with a British-German crew, marking a significant milestone in aviation history. To commemorate this event, Hanhart has crafted a watch that combines both vintage and modern aesthetics into one chronograph. The 417 ES Tornado Limited Edition features a stainless steel case housing the reliable Swiss Made Sellita AMT 5100 M Flyback movement, offering a power reserve of up to 58 hours. The dial is adorned with the cockade colors of Germany, Italy, and the United Kingdom, paying homage to the partner nations involved in the Tornado project. Its rotating fluted bezel and luminous hands and indices in Old Radium color enhance its vintage charm. The case measures 39mm in diameter and is 13.3mm tall.  This chronograph stands out with its historical design elements, including the bi-compax layout, and the iconic red markings. The finely polished chamfers and anti-reflective convex sapphire glass add to its elegance and functionality. It’s water-resistant up to 10 bar and comes with a black calfskin strap. Priced at 2,590€, the watch is available at Hanhart’s website now. Images from this post: T...

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Opera Two May 21, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 Fratello
Panerai s New Luminor Dieci May 21, 2024

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482

Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip WatchAdvice
Christopher Ward Baltic Formex May 17, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

In the early 2020s, everything was shut down, and the watch industry was beginning to stagnate. However, one man decided to make the most of it and designed a watch – inadvertently helping facilitate the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ But do we believe the hype? Let’s find out! What We Like: A non-serious yet refined design Remarkable build quality for the price point Comfortable and well-made strap with plenty of adjustment What We Don’t: Insufficient lume Crown and pushers are extremely fiddly to use Low power reserve Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 7/10 The 2020s post-pandemic watch industry has been coined by some to be the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ for those unfamiliar with the term, a microbrand is a watch brand, usually independently owned and run by a small team – Essentially a small business or a start-up, in normal terms. What the ‘Rise of the Microbrand’ indicates is the massive resurgence of interest in said start-ups, which in turn has been a contributing factor to saving modern horology as we know it. That might sound like hyperbole to you, but I don’t say it lightly – Microbrands like Christopher Ward, Baltic, Formex and Farer have grown to the point where they now challenge household names. Every day, promising young microbrands such as HZ Watches also come out of the woodwork, transforming the industry in small but significant ways. We even got the chance to look at a HZ wat...

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 8, 2024

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team

One of my favorite Watches & Wonders experiences these past few years was the brief time I got to spend with the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. All tourbillons are special, of course, but this one is especially unique and I found it to be genuinely kind of awe inspiring in person. As the name of the watch implies, the cylindrical hairspring wraps around the balance spindle vertically, giving what is already a fairly dramatic watch an even more profound sense of depth. It’s a particularly challenging watchmaking feat to pull off, but pays dividends, according to Moser, in reducing friction and improving isochronism, both of which play a role in a more stable rate through the duration of the movement’s power reserve.  In the last few weeks, Moser has been busy introducing two new versions of their most impressive tourbillon, this time as part of the Streamliner collection of watches, and in both cases in partnership with the BWT Alpine F1 Team. The watches take a similar aesthetic approach seen in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, with a skeletonized dial that prominently highlights the flying tourbillon at 6:00, and a decentralized dial at the 12:00 position. The difference of course is that now we have this complication in a Streamliner case (and on a rubber strap) for a watch (a pair of watches, actually) that might just be the sportiest Moser has ever made. Both versions of the watch use synthetic, translucent minerals for the small decentralized dials. For...

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only May 1, 2024

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024”

Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 WatchAdvice
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 After Apr 30, 2024

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...

Baltic Kicks off the Tour Auto with a Limited Edition Tricompax Chronograph Worn & Wound
Baltic Kicks off Apr 18, 2024

Baltic Kicks off the Tour Auto with a Limited Edition Tricompax Chronograph

The Tour Auto, rooted in the historic Tour de France Automobile dating back to 1899, has become a pinnacle of motorsport, featuring legendary drivers like Maurice Trintignant and iconic brands such as Ferrari and Porsche. Today, over 250 competing crews traverse France’s scenic roads and racetracks, captivating spectators. Baltic returns for a second year in the row as the Official Timekeeper, and, in commemoration of the event, has produced 500 Tricompax timepieces. The Tricompax’s colorway strikes a balance between tradition and modernity, drawing inspiration from the excitement and iconography of the race. Its dial, in a matte light beige, complements three black-ringed subdials, reminiscent of the Tour de France Automobile’s colors. Accentuated by a black railway track, it pairs harmoniously with the tachymeter scale bezel, designed for speeds of up to 200 km/h. The Tricompax is encased in a 39.5mm 316L stainless steel case, clocking in at a thin 13.5mm profile. With a 63-hour power reserve from the Sellita SW510-M manually wound movement, 50-meter water resistance, and its double-domed sapphire crystal, each feature of this watch is meant for the long-haul.  Each watch comes with both a steel flat link bracelet and a navy blue Alcantara strap, housed in a beautifully presented custom-made case. Also included in the case is a Rally Timer comprising two emblematic motorsport tools: a stopwatch with a matte light gray dial, operated by a Hanhart hand-wound movemen...

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes a Triumphant Return Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes Apr 15, 2024

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes a Triumphant Return

When I say Jaeger LeCoultre, you say Reverso! Or Memovox! Or maybe Polaris! Or something to that effect. The point is that Jaeger LeCoultre, JLC to the cool kids, has a few iconic models immediately associated with its vaunted Maison. But the archives run deeper and into stranger horological territories. At Watches & Wonders 2024, JLC refreshed a lesser-known and appreciated line of watches epitomizing its watchmaking chops: the Duometre. First launched in 2007 with a chronograph, the Duometres presented a novel solution to an issue that concerns all watches with complications, that of the complications taking power out of the movement to function, thus decreasing the accuracy of the timekeeping and potentially power reserve. While a lesser issue in date complications, chronographs notoriously wreak havoc on a movement’s amplitude due to the power draw. But, JLC found a solution– to have separate barrels and gear trains for timekeeping and everything else, linked by the escapement. Hence, “duo.” The resulting watches and calibers are dramatic, to say the least. The movements are massive and ornate, with pronounced barrels on one side. To wind the movement, you turn the crown one way and then the other, like a ratcheting system, winding both barrels. Dial side, the duo concept is further played out with the hour and minutes displayed on a decentralized smaller dial to one side of the larger dial and the complication on the other. The seconds, however, is displayed a...

TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 11, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera

It is no secret that one of the star releases at last year’s Watches & Wonders was the Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper Chronograph, featuring their new glassbox design. This watch remains ever popular, as one year later, retailers still cannot keep them in inventory. Not willing to rest on their laurels, for 2024, Tag Heuer is releasing a solid gold version of the Carrera Skipper Chronograph. Made of 18K 5N rose gold, dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Its distinctive blue dial features a green, orange, teal blue color lacquered regatta count-down indicator at 3 o’clock, a teal blue color lacquered hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a blue permanent second indicator at 6 o’clock. All hands and indices are also made of 18K 5N rose gold. This new Carrera Chronograph Skipper brings a new level of luxury and collectability to TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper is 21,500 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. Images from this post: The post TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera appeared first on Worn & Wound.

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 11, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph

Following the success of last year’s glassbox Carrera chronograph releases, Tag Heuer extends the collection with a new for 2024 bi-compax panda look in stainless steel.  This watch features a silver brushed sunray dial, with a black minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, a black hour chronograph totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a permanent seconds indicator in silver at 6 o’clock. Dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. What made last year’s releases so appealing was their new combination of a concave dial and outward convex tachymeter rehaut, which hugged the outer curvature of the glassbox sapphire crystal. The look is quite frankly mesmerizing, and it has completely rejuvenated the Carrera line. This harmonious blend of vintage tribute, contemporary elegance, and novelty truly embody the spirit for which TAG Heuer is renowned. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph is $6,650 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. The post TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.

First Look – The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, With 14 Days of Power Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Apr 9, 2024

First Look – The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, With 14 Days of Power

The Big Bang MP-11’s impressive 14-day power reserve, derived from seven series-coupled and horizontally arranged barrels, has been a staple at Hublot since 2018. Using a sapphire crystal case to house the HUB9011 movement isn’t entirely novel (one of the inaugural models featured this). Still, it’s hard to overlook the allure of the latest iteration […]

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Norqain Apr 2, 2024

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph

Swiss watchmaker Norqain has just released the colorful Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection. Showcasing three colorways, this collection is inspired by the idyllic charm of Tuscany, capturing the essence of la dolce vita, mixed with the precision and design elements for which Norqain is known. Each watch in the collection features a 316L stainless steel case in the now familiar Freedom 60 silhouette that evokes classic sports watches from the past. With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 14.90mm, these timepieces strike the perfect balance of having presence on the wrist without too much additional bulk.  The Freedom 60 Chrono 40 mm collection is available in three new pastel color options: Sky Blue, Pistachio, and Peach, each dial reminiscent of one’s favorite gelateria. Each dial has a darker complementary sub-dial, outer ring, and tachymeter scale to tie the everything  together. An anthracite Norqain logo and black counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock add depth to the dial, while diamond-cut flat indexes ensure readability in a variety of lighting conditions. The color matched date window, positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, adds a practical complication, while diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands, filled with Superluminova, enhance visibility in low-light environments. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection is powered by the mechanical Norqain caliber N19 (a modified Sellita SW510), offering 62 hours of power reserve.  Watches are offered in three strap varie...

Baltic Launches Limited Edition Hermétique References Inspired by Glaciers Worn & Wound
Baltic Launches Limited Edition Hermétique Mar 14, 2024

Baltic Launches Limited Edition Hermétique References Inspired by Glaciers

Whether you’re thinking of Titanic or the majestic vista of Mont Blanc, there is no denying that glaciers have long held the fascination of the human psyche. In a way, their calming, serene presence belies the danger that can exist on one of these masses of ice – and, in a way, this juxtaposition is a perfect jumping-off point for a watch design. Like, for instance, what Baltic has done with their Hermétique Glacier collection. Coming in both a White and Black reference, the Hermétique Glacier is both meticulously crafted and finely designed to elegantly represent the essence of les glaciers. Starting with the dial, both the White and Black versions draw inspiration from the ethereal beauty of glaciers to create a stamped pattern that emulates the various textures of a glacier’s surface. Super-Luminova® BGW9-coated hour appliques and “syringe” hands ensure effortless readability, even amidst dimly lit environments. Ostensibly a field watch, Baltic reinforces the notion of “form and function” when combining a beautifully designed watch with its 150-meter water resistance, double-domed sapphire crystal, and use of 316L stainless steel for the case. Despite its rugged capabilities, the Hermétique Glacier maintains an elegant profile, with the case measuring a mere 10.8mm in thickness and clocking in at 37mm. The watch runs on a calibre 9039 movement, a self-winding movement with a 42-hour power reserve developed by the Japanese manufacturer Miyota. Various s...

RZE and Fratello Team Up for the Resolute Pro “Contour” Worn & Wound
Mar 13, 2024

RZE and Fratello Team Up for the Resolute Pro “Contour”

RZE builds watches for adventure. Its latest, a collaboration with Fratello, takes that ethos more literally than ever, with a dial that resembles the topography of a map. It’s a field watch with the field on the watch. The RZE x Fratello Resolute Pro “Contour” keeps the angular design of the Resolute line case. It’s a rugged design, complemented well by its rugged qualities. Grade 2 titanium gives the watch some serious durability while keeping it light and easy to wear, particularly at 40mm. RZE’s proprietary UltraHEX coating ups the case’s durability and combined with a sapphire crystal and titanium bracelet more or less guarantees no part of the watch will scratch. But the case isn’t what’s new about this watch: it’s the dial that really makes the collaboration. Made from forged carbon sheets, the dial gets its signature contours from steel powder infused into the carbon. Because of the nature of this process, each watch dial in this limited run features a unique pattern. A topographical pattern is featured on the caseback as well, which also features a Fratello logo. Applied indices and logo on the dial, and brushing on the case and bracelet give the watch a luxurious finish. Inside is the Miyota 90s5, an automatic movement that features hand-winding capability and hacking, with 42 hours of power reserve. Water resistant to 100 meters with a signed screwdown crown, lumed indices and hands, and an anti-reflective coating on the crystal, the watch is a...

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Mar 12, 2024

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide

In their relatively short tenure on the international market, Seiko’s Presage “Cocktail Time” watches have already established themselves in the minds of many enthusiasts as one of the watch industry’s very best value prospects in the realm of automatic dress watches - boasting in-house movements, high-end finishing, and the colorful dials that lend them their nicknames, each inspired by concoctions from Japan’s world-famous high-end cocktail bars. Here is a guide to the Seiko “Cocktail Time,” with highlights and milestones from the modern collection. Happy Hour in Japan Seiko served up the first round of its “Cocktail Time” watches exclusively to customers in Japan. The first of these  “JDM” (Japan Domestic Market) models debuted in 2010 and carried the Reference number SARB065. Now discontinued (and accordingly in high demand by collectors), this watch (above) and its siblings, the SARB066 and SARB068, featured 40mm cases in stainless steel, which were fairly thick at 13.3mm high. The movement inside the cases was Seiko’s Caliber 6R15, with bidirectional automatic winding, a 50-hour power reserve, and an impressive resistance to magnetic fields of 4,800 A/m.  Unlike the many Presage models that followed, the originals were not nicknamed after specific cocktail concoctions but simply for different styles: the SARB065 with its ice-blue dial was “Cool,” the SARB066 with a pale, cream-colored dial was “Dry,” and the reddish brown dial of t...

Seiko Upgrades the “62MAS” Prospex Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Upgrades Mar 7, 2024

Seiko Upgrades the “62MAS” Prospex Diver

A bestseller available in several variants to date, the modern-day “62MAS” now gets a substantive upgrade with the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. The new diver is a direct successor of cal. 6R35-powered models, including the SPB143 and SPB239 of 2021. Released in two regular-production models (SPB451 and SPB453), plus a 100th anniversary special edition (SPB455), the latest Prospex “62MAS” improves on earlier models in three key areas: water resistance is now 300 m, the case is slightly more compact, and the movement is now the cal. 6R55 with a 72-hour power reserve. SPB451 Initial Thoughts As is usually the case with Prospex dive watches, the latest take on the 62MAS is robust and good looking. The new divers are safe bets as they rely on a proven formula – the classic 62MAS design with improved technical features. The SPB455 in particular stands out with its vintage-flavoured gilt accents. That said, the designs stay traditional; these are difficult to distinguish from their predecessors at a distance. A more distinctive design, perhaps with patterned dials that Seiko excels in, would have made these more compelling. SPB453 Importantly, the new trio also stays in the sub-US$1,500 price segment. Few dive watches in this price range have the same historical provenance, since Seiko was a pioneer in dive watch development. The regular production pair are only US$100 pricier than the SPB143 (and the special edition an extra US$200). The premium is easily ju...

Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection Worn & Wound
Bulova Adds New References Mar 6, 2024

Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection

When talking about value driven timepieces, it would be foolish to exclude Bulova from the conversation. From their Lunar series to their Precisionist line and their aptly nicknamed Devil divers, Bulova is one of the essential bang for your buck watch brands. Furthering their cause, they are launching 3 new colorways to their popular Surveyor collection, along with a special new gold-tone option.  There will now be a striking pistachio (light green) version, with a quick release brown leather strap and a dark green version on matching quick-release 3-link stainless-steel bracelet. Both will have silver-tone dial furniture and hands, while a new burgundy edition will have rose gold-tone accents and crown. The latter will also be supplied on a matching 3-link bracelet.  Along with these new stainless-steel models, as previously mentioned, there will be a fully gold-tone edition. This one will feature a stunning champagne dial, with cut-outs so that the wearer can admire the beating heart powering this timepiece. Not only are the watch and bracelet gold-tone, but the movement plates and rotor have been given the gold treatment as well.  All these new pieces share the same 39mm case, featuring sculpted edges and faceting, along with a mix of polished and brushed finishing. Topping these watches is a flat sapphire crystal, adorned with a date magnifier and they will be powered by a Japanese (Miyota) 21-jewel automatic movement that boasts a 42-hour power reserve. These vibra...

Christopher Ward Adds to their Dune Line with a C65 GMT Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds Mar 4, 2024

Christopher Ward Adds to their Dune Line with a C65 GMT

Known for their luxury design at an approachable price point, British watchmaker Christopher Ward has brought their signature style to a new watch, the C65 Dune GMT White Sand. Inspired by field watch designs of the 1960’s, the C65 Dune GMT mixes vintage design elements with a totally modern upgrade. For one, unlike most GMT’s on the market, this model has an interior 24-hour bezel adorned with numerals, maintaining its streamlined profile that’s more complementary of the Dune silhouette. Further to this, the use of a fourth “GMT hand” allows for the wearer to always have their eye on a second timezone, a function that’s key for any explorer looking to up their wrist game. In terms of design, the C65 Dune GMT White Sand opts for a subtle charm that can easily be worn – and read – in a variety of circumstances. For one, the charm of the 38mm stainless steel case against the ivory-colored dial means this watch can be dressed up as needed. But like any good field watch, one should get their money’s worth in a variety of circumstances, and the C65 Dune GMT is no different.  The ultra-legible White Sand dial is accentuated by the applied twin-flags logo at 12 o’clock and a date window at 6. Both the hour markers and handset are deep-filled with Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium BL Grade X1, giving readability at any day of day – or night. The C65 Dune GMT White Sand is powered by a self-winding Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement, with a power reserve of 56 hour...

Farer Updates their World Timer Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Updates their World Timer Feb 26, 2024

Farer Updates their World Timer Collection

Introduced in 2019, Farer’s World Timer series has continued to garner attention for the brand and has become one of their most popular collections to date. Between a nearly pitch-perfect design for the dial and the impressive central rotating 24-hour disc and a bidirectional internal bezel, the wearer has the ability to read 24 time zones simultaneously.  Now, the Britain-based company has released a new iteration of the World Time collection, each with notable enhancements, reintroducing favorites like the Roché and Markham alongside the introduction of the all-new Foxe model in a striking green hue. Those familiar with the collection’s previous design will notice updated hour and minute hands, adopting a sleeker alpha shape to complement the watches’ aesthetics. Moreover, adjustments to the rotating bezel showcase city replacements: Chicago has replaced Mexico City, Beijing has replaced Hong Kong, and lastly, Paris has been replaced by Bienne to mark where the World Timers are produced. Less conspicuous is the update to the World Time’s movement. The collection now houses a customized version of the Sellita SW330-1 movement, specifically tailored to accommodate a rotating 24-hour disc instead of a traditional GMT hand. This modification, along with an upgraded mainspring, extends the power reserve to an impressive 50 hours.  As mentioned, three color options are available for this update. One can choose between Roche, Markham, and Foxe.  The Roché model com...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 21, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon”

First seen in 2021, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar sports watch combines its signature complication and the bestselling integrated-bracelet design. Slated to be produced only during 2024, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon is a reference to Moser’s trademark gradient, or “smoked”, dials. The new perpetual calendar takes stylistic minimalism even further than its predecessor. The Smoked Salmon version does away entirely with any markings on the dial, leaving the gradient dial almost entirely unadorned. Initial thoughts The new perpetual is typical Moser in both style and function. The colour and name are subtly amusing, reflecting the brand’s frequent use of low-key humour in its products. The “Tutorial” perpetual calendar was more literal but equally tongue-in-cheek. More broadly, “Smoked Salmon” is a clever as it adds another twist to the gradient dials that are now synonymous with Moser, which helps keep the concept fresh, despite it having been iterated numerous times. Salmon aside, the latest Streamliner is a striking watch. Even though Moser has no shortage of minimalist watches, this one stands out for being so stark yet having a full featured perpetual calendar – and even a power reserve. Mechanically, the watch is identical to its predecessors, which is a good thing. The second-generation perpetual calendar inside is smartly constructed but also free of the bugs found in earlier iterations of the movement. The Perpetual Calen...

Elka Teams Up with Ace Jewelers for a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Feb 20, 2024

Elka Teams Up with Ace Jewelers for a New Limited Edition

The Elka Watch Co. continues to build upon its vintage-inspired D-Series lineup with the D-Series Essence, a limited edition collaboration with Ace Jewelers released Friday. The Essence is intended to reduce a watch to, well, its essence. It’s not the first watch to explore minimalism in design, though the inspiration behind it is certainly unique. The Essence marks the second collaboration between Elka and Ace Jewelers, the first of which saw the release of four limited edition watches with different languages’ numerals. This is, in some ways, a continuation of that series, still interested in numerals, now exploring what a watch looks like in their absence. The deep blue dial features no markings aside from the words “Elka Watch Co.” and “Automatic” below the 12 o’clock and the words “Swiss Made” at the bottom of the dial. Unobstructed by indices or any additional text and with a 41mm case and a domed crystal, the blue dial is reminiscent of the open sea. The dial features a subtle sunburst that prevents it from feeling too flat or visually uninteresting. The 40.8mm stainless case features a screwed-in caseback with 30 meters of water resistance and is 46.5mm lug to lug. The La Joux-Perret G100 automatic movement inside the watch gives it a 68-hour power reserve, and has become a signature of Elka’s products, having been used in its watches since Elka released its first watches on Kickstarter in 2022. Hakim El Kadiri, who re-launched Elka in 2022, has...