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Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Deployant
The DEFY 21 Chroma is a colourful execution of the high-frequency El Primero 21 1/100th of a second chronograph model, crafted in a 44mm matte white ceramic case with rainbow-coloured movement visible through the open dial set with markers in a gradient of tones. The white rubber strap also features rainbow stitching. Limited edition of 200 pieces.
SJX Watches
A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms. While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be. As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date). Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi. (At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.) Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Ch...
SJX Watches
Launched last year but perhaps overshadowed by mega complication like the Vermeer pocket watch and Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers – Vasco da Gama was the latest in Vacheron Constantin’s long-running series of antiquarian-map watches dedicated to noted historical seafarers. The Vasco da Gama, along with its siblings in the series, exemplify the brand’s tagline for 2021 – “Classic with a Twist” – with a case that evokes 1980s design but an enamelled dial and time display that are both quirky and interesting. The Vasco da Gama is one third of the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers collection. The other two watches that make up the rest of the line up are naturally dedicated to “Great Explorers”, namely Bartolomeu Dias and Pedro Alvarez Cabral, fellow Portuguese sailors who were contemporaries of da Gama. They are each mechanically identical to the Vasco da Gama and differ only in terms of the dial motif. Each of the dials depict the journey of the respective explorer who were professional seamen who charted the world during the Age of Discovery, the period between the 15th and 18th centuries that saw the rise of European empires as their ships roamed the world. The watch outlines the first voyage of da Gama, the first European to reach India by sea. In 1497, he led his fleet of four ships on the two-year journey, setting sail south Lisbon, then around the Cape of Good Hope, and onto to Cali...
Time+Tide
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is apparently not content with being one of the most iconic watches ever to be buckled onto a wrist. Sure, it was the first watch to make it onto the moon on July 20, 1969 after being the only chronograph that NASA deemed tough and accurate enough to meet their exacting … ContinuedThe post Moonfall is the latest big-screen cameo for the Omega Speedmaster. Here are 5 more of the watch’s memorable roles at the movies appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.
SJX Watches
While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...
SJX Watches
Having enjoyed modest success with its affordable(ish) Tonda GT sports watch launched two years ago, Parmigiani tweaked the concept and debuted a more refined – and pricier – sports watch last year, the Tonda PF. The line up includes the base-model Micro-Rotor in steel reviewed here, along with a chronograph and annual calendar. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in steel Taking generous inspiration from the brand’s more classical timepieces, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelet. While the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor doesn’t deviate much from the familiar formula for a luxury-sports watch, it does excel in a few ways, helping it stand out from the competition, most notably with its minimalist dial and ultra-thin automatic movement that are both executed to a high level. And its bigger brother, the Tonda PF Chronograph in pink gold Initial thoughts The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is surprisingly thin, making it seem slightly wider than its 40 mm diameter. But it sits flat and elegant, with the lines of the case flowing into the bracelet, giving it a sleek look on the wrist. Despite its delicate looks, the Micro-Rotor (along with the rest of the Tonda PF range) is water resistant to a respectable 100 m. Unlike many of Parmigiani’s recent models (including its more affordable sports watch, the Tonda GT), the Tonda PF is minimalist in terms of styling. And the Micro-Rotor, being the simplest watch in the collection, is the most pared back. Its di...
SJX Watches
Now in its third decade, Franck Muller is a success story of independent watchmaking, having gone from a small outfit centred on its eponymous founder to a brand with nine-figure annual revenue. Alongside its stable of inventive and highly complicated wristwatches, the brand is most famous for its tonneau-shaped watch case – the Cintrée Curvex – which was so successful in the 1990s that made tonneau cases a thing in contemporary watchmaking. The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of that tonneau shape, while adopting the palette and styling of the Cintrée Curvex Casablanca that was a bestseller when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was introduced in 2014, the Casablanca makes it debuts with a new 43 mm size that fills the gap between the 41 mm and 45 mm cases. Initial thoughts The original Casablanca took its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Meant to evoke the era of steamship travel and exotic port cities, the Casablanca had oversized Arabic numerals and dials in retro colours like salmon and sand. That’s been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a distinctly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a strong and appealing design that is arguably even more quintessentially Franck Muller than the earlier versions of the Vanguard. The Casablanca is available as a time-only and also a chronograph Because the look is very much typical of Franck Muller, thi...
Hodinkee
A fresh-faced flyback chronograph and a new-look GMT represent two firsts for the Autavia.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer have enjoyed an eventful year, releasing some gorgeous watches that flex their capabilities beyond their standard lineups while staying true to their inherent DNA. Perhaps the best example of this was their collaboration with Porsche in the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition, embracing the racing ancestry that the Swiss brand carries … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 5 watches that defined TAG Heuer’s year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
More than just selling watches, Etienne Malec wants to create well-designed, high-quality mechanical watches with price points that appeal to a new generation. Here, we cast the spotlight on his brand, Baltic Watches, and present our collaboration with them - a pulsometer chronograph that is a fantastic value proposition.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green is a big fan of the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chronograph and to date the blue-dial model has been his favorite. But that's now been supplanted by the White Hawk, which he thinks gives this military-inspired watch a more urban touch.
Time+Tide
Wear and tear often bolsters the appeal of a vintage watch. Picture a chronograph dial aged to a warm tropical hue, or a diver’s watch shadowed with caramel patina. Rather than signs of decay, such well-worn details are celebrated as adding character and authenticity. Like the laughter lines on an old man’s face, they’re testimony … ContinuedThe post The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
What we love: Split Second Complication with 100m WR- Yes please!Open caseback displaying manual winding movement Beautifully laid out dial What we don’t love: Thickness, some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Could do without cutout numbers on the dial (2,4,8 and 10)Due to the design of the top sapphire crystal glass, cannot see the tachymeter scale properly when looking directly at the dial Overall rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”. Design: Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial. Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the o...
SJX Watches
Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection. The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT). Initial thoughts Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches. I especially like the HMS and Chronograph. While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well. The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for an...
Deployant
IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled the Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince”, the first Big Pilot’s Watch with a chronograph function.
SJX Watches
Complicated watches naturally come at a high cost of entry compared with simpler watches, at least at retail. But on the secondary market they can offer compelling value – except for a handful of “hot” watches (and we included one of those in the list too). At the same time, complications are intrinsically appealing because they possess the sheer technical quality that’s a key quality of high-end watchmaking. And there A. Lange & Söhne is no doubt a standout, especially for its watches that are considered benchmarks in their category, like the Datograph and Zeitwerk. So we round up a few highlights amongst the complications at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, covering a few value buys and also some star picks by Lange. So the list is diverse, ranging from the ultra-desirable Lange Datograph Lumen to a Piaget tourbillon with a form movement that is technically interesting and definitely strong value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. The movement in the Datograph Lumen Lot 833: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen One of Lange’s trademark complications is the chronograph, simply because it does chronographs so well. It all started in 1999 with the Datograph. It’s still considered a landmark in modern chronographs two decades later for its fine, traditional construction. The model has been offered in s...
Deployant
The watch is an excellent offering from the brand, and is very appealing within the the dive/sports range chronograph segment. Overall, the watch looks great, and has a pedigree movement to run it. At a retail price of US$28,700 for 18K white or rose gold and US$18,500 for titanium, the watch presents a much welcome variety to the dominant Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and Vacheron Constantin Overseas.
Quill & Pad
Can you imagine buying a watch bracelet and then searching for the right watch to pair with it? Seems a bit far fetched, but that’s exactly what a good friend of GaryG's did a few years ago. And it led to him purchasing two beautiful 1815 Chronograph models from A. Lange & Söhne.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Kaz and Mike bring back an old-time favorite and run through another round of guilty pleasure watches that make them feel dirty all over. There's a twist though - these watches are slightly more under-the-radar than you might be expecting. Plus, you'll hear about some recent releases and a killer chronograph from Brew Watches. Enjoy!
Hodinkee
The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Inspiration4”
SJX Watches
Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...
SJX Watches
The upcoming Only Watch auction is an impressive catalogue of 53 one-off timepieces, a good number of which – more than a quarter of the total – are chronographs. Among the dozen chronographs, a couple caught my eye. One is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021. It’s essentially an evolution of the Breguet Type 20 created for Only Watch 2019, simple in design and execution but attractive in that simplicity. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Initial thoughts Like another notable chronograph in the sale, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Type XX is reinterpretation of an iconic model of the brand. But the Type XX Only Watch 2021 is a nostalgic reinterpretation with a chocolate-brown dial that evokes the aged, “tropical” effect found on vintage examples. That said, the vintage styling is its only weakness. The Type XX is almost identical to the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 – right down to the strap – though the point can be made that the two make a perfect pair. The Type XX (left), and Type 20 They are each inspired by historical aviator’s watches made for the military and civilian markets respectively (the vintage Type XX was marketed to civilians, while the Type 20 was supplied to the French military). So this year’s Type XX should go home with the owner of the Type 20 from 2019. Almost a doppelgänger – the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Notably, the Type XX is powered by a vintage movement, though one that is from a later period from an actual vintage Type XX. Still, giv...
Deployant
The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.
SJX Watches
In the field of precision timekeeping, one inevitably encounters Longines with its multi-facetted and remarkably rich history. The unwavering persistence of the firm’s celebrated régleurs and its long lineage of in-house chronometer calibres fostered Longines’ reputation for excellence in precision timekeeping, far beyond the borders of Switzerland. The Saint Imier-based manufacturer ventured into precision chronometry as early as 1888, amidst the dawn of observatory chronometer competitions in Switzerland, when its cal. 21.59/60-based chronometer obtained an observatory-issued Bulletin de Marche, or rate certificate. And after almost a century of steadfast participation in prestigious chronometry trials, the last Longines timepiece subject to observatory-governed testing, a cal. 262 based chronograph (movement no. 14’701’394), received its certificate in 1972. The Neuchâtel observatory announced its first chronometer contest on December 5, 1865. Eight decades later this Longines advertisement portrayed the observatory chronometer contests as an uphill battle, referencing the record of N=5.00 obtained by the wristwatch-sized cal. 15.68Z in 1945 at Neuchâtel. Towards the end of the 1950s, a pure-bred competition calibre named the cal. 360 became Longines’ final masterpiece in the hard-fought race for glory in precision. A proven workhorse that won countless prizes and accolades at both the Neuchâtel and Geneva observatory competitions, the cal. 360 was a pu...
Time+Tide
IWC rarely shy away from a limited edition, especially not when it’s in celebration of military icons. New to the IWC catalogues is a batch of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Editions that celebrate three F/A-18 Super Hornet flying squadrons of the US Navy - the Royal Maces, the Tophatters, and the Blue Angels. The dial As … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Limited Edition collection celebrates the real Top Guns appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As names for a timepiece go, Farer’s latest Chronograph Monopusher is as badass as it is to the point. Indeed, when someone asks what watch you are wearing and your retort is “the Farer Cobb Pulsometer Monopusher” you’d be hard pushed not to want to be a) intrigued and keen to take a closer look, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Farer Cobb Pulsometer Monopusher is a colourful masterclass in dial construction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Back in February, Jeff Stein wrote about the rise of the Heuer Skipperrera. Today he traces the history (and mystery) of another legendary Heuer chronograph.
Time+Tide
Recently Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs with complications: the 5905/1A, 5204-011, and 5930P-001. Standing out amongst the trio, to many, was the ref. 5905/1A – the first ever 5905 Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph to be released in stainless steel. Not only does the watch have a stainless-steel case, but also a matching stainless-steel bracelet … ContinuedThe post What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
IWC’s Pilot’s Watch family has a long, rich tradition of precision military timekeepers dating back to 1936. From the iconic Mark XI to the revival in the 90s, aviation watches are defined by their legibility and reliability. That’s something that holds true today, whether you’re talking about a modern Top Gun chronograph or a hit limited edition like the Mark XVIII ‘Tribute to Mark XI’.
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