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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.
Weekend Contemplation: Is Seiko Slowly Losing Its Value-For-Money Image? Fratello
Seiko Slowly Losing Jun 8, 2024

Weekend Contemplation: Is Seiko Slowly Losing Its Value-For-Money Image?

This week, I wrote the introduction article for the new additions to Seiko’s Marinemaster collection. To prepare myself, I read through the comments below Thomas’s article on the initial release of the updated Marinemaster last November. The number of comments below that article was quite surprising in itself. We certainly don’t get nearly 80 comments […] Visit Weekend Contemplation: Is Seiko Slowly Losing Its Value-For-Money Image? to read the full article.

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eBay Finds: A Classic Seiko Diver, an Unusual Driver’s Watch, a Rare Bulova, and More! Worn & Wound
Bulova Jun 7, 2024

eBay Finds: A Classic Seiko Diver, an Unusual Driver’s Watch, a Rare Bulova, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Jubilee Asymmetrical Driver’s Watch  Starting off this week with a wild one, a vintage Jubilee asymmetrical driver’s watch that has a super cool see through acrylic case! The case is wedge shaped and raised at the top to make it easier to read while your hand is on your steering wheel. The clear acrylic is really neat, giving you a view of the inner workings. The case is nice and clear, with sharp edges and no cracks or crazing that I can see. The deep blue crosshair dial has a beautiful patina, giving it a lapis lazuli look. The blue strap has to be original, it fits both in style and color too perfectly. Seller states the watch runs, so it’s ready to show off at your next cocktail party! View auction here Vintage Bulova Beau Brummel  If it’s bling you seek, search no further! This vintage 1965 Bulova Beau Brummel is a stunner, with bling and style in spades. The 10k gold filled case is excellent and appears unpolished, with nice sharp edges and sharp fancy lugs. The wide smooth bezel gives the watch real presence. Speaking of presence, check out that bullseye style gold dial with the real diamond hour markers at 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 11. Now, this style certainly isn...

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Atelier Holgur Introduces a New Dial Variant for their Frømand Diver Worn & Wound
Jun 7, 2024

Atelier Holgur Introduces a New Dial Variant for their Frømand Diver

One of my favorite watch discoveries last year was Atelier Holgur, whose debut diver, the Frømand, I reviewed last year. When I had it in for review I found it to be quite impressive on a number of levels, but the best thing about it was its commitment to the idea behind it. It’s a perfectly capable diver, but everything about it has been designed with a particular aesthetic appeal in mind. In a watch world full of brands that are trying to sell you “tools” you will never actually need, it was weirdly refreshing to see Atelier Holgur admit that they just wanted to make something that looked nice. Beauty, of course, is in the eye of the beholder, and you might see the Frømand and immediately want to turn away, but I happened to enjoy it’s unusual take on the skin-diver format and highly legible dial execution. Now they’re back with an update to the Frømand, the new Edition Fumée Silver Tide, with a dial that provides this diver with a very different personality than the debut.  The new Silver Tide follows other Edition Fumée releases in a variety of colors that have trickled out from Atelier Holgur over the last year. The Silver Tide variant, according to the brand’s founders, takes inspiration from their night diving experiences, where moonlight reflects off the water with a silvery glow and fades into the black of the ocean. The dial here is higly evocative, with a bright silvery center that gradually becomes darker until it reaches total blackness at th...

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Fratello On Air: A Flurry Of New Releases From Omega, Ming, Seiko, And More Fratello
Omega Ming Seiko Jun 7, 2024

Fratello On Air: A Flurry Of New Releases From Omega, Ming, Seiko, And More

Fratello On Air is back after more than two weeks. We didn’t plan to be away, but illness and travel got in the way again. Today, we talk about some new releases after our normal banter about a variety of topics. We hope you enjoy the show and, yes, we’ll be back in a few […] Visit Fratello On Air: A Flurry Of New Releases From Omega, Ming, Seiko, And More to read the full article.

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Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving Fratello
Rolex Sea-Dweller Underwater photography Jun 7, 2024

Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving

In this edition of Fratelli Stories, we learn more about Fratello reader Andre. He combines his passions for diving and underwater photography with his love of horology. This includes his fondness for his favorite diving companion, a Rolex Sea-Dweller. Underwater photography is a passion of mine as well. The underwater world is both enchanting and […] Visit Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving to read the full article.

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18 Roman Numeral-Dial Watches From Under $500 to $40,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 6, 2024

18 Roman Numeral-Dial Watches From Under $500 to $40,000

In an era when the line between what is a sports watch and what is a dress watch have been blurred substantially, the presence of Roman numerals on your watch’s dial is one of the last reliable hallmarks that identify it as a timepiece meant for dressing up, not down; a watch designed with classical elegance in mind more so than robustness or even optimum legibility. Of course, Roman numerals in general are rarely encountered in most people’s modern lives, the annual naming and marketing of Super Bowls being the rare exception. Thus, watches with Roman-numeral dials are relatively rare in the horological wild as well, albeit still occupying an appealing niche embraced by many watch manufacturers as well as by an avid core of enthusiasts. Here, we’ve tracked down 18 that are on the market in 2024; as per our usual format, they’re spotlighted in ascending order of price and represent a wide range of price points. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $410, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, offers simple three-handed options and a handful of “quiet” complications, like th...

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Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable SJX Watches
Patek Philippe or dive watch While Jun 6, 2024

Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable

Newly established “micro” brand Anoma follows a familiar template: making particular vintage designs or genres affordable. But it’s approaching the concept with a different flavour. Instead of “sector” dials or Breguet numerals, the brand’s inaugural watch, the A1 First Series, is a clean, geometric form inspired by 1950s furniture. Initial thoughts The A1 is refreshing change from the typical “micro” brand offering that is too often a remake of a vintage Patek Philippe or dive watch. While the A1 won’t have the broad appeal of a conventional round watch, it is an interesting alternative for someone on a budget. The A1 is more typical of “micro” brand offerings in its fit and finish. It is done well for the price, but some compromises had to be made to achieve the affordability. The gap between the case middle and back, for instance, is quite obvious. This isn’t a criticism but a fact true of all brands in this genre. Vintage flavour Founded by Matteo Violet Vianello, a management consultant who’s a watch entrepreneur on the side, Anoma aims to be a “experimental and daring vision of watch design”. The A1 is not modelled on a watch, but instead a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French architect Charlotte Perriand. Earlier in her career Perriand worked at Le Corbusier’s studio, where she helped design several now-famous pieces of furniture, including the B 306 chaise longue. The watch reproduces the outline of the table with the cas...

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Creating New History: Ulysse Nardin’s Approach to Marrying Past, Present, and Future Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin s Approach Jun 6, 2024

Creating New History: Ulysse Nardin’s Approach to Marrying Past, Present, and Future

One of the core challenges among modern watchmakers is balancing past, present, and future-honoring the traditions of this centuries-old art form, harnessing new technologies, and looking toward the next generation of collectors. When you think of a brand like Ulysse Nardin, you might assume its focus is chiefly on the latter two. It was nearly 25 years ago that the brand paved the way for the use of silicon in watchmaking, a material that has now become vital to countless manufacturers across the industry. Ulysse Nardin debuted its silicon escapement wheel in the Freak, aptly named for its seemingly absurd design featuring no dial, no hands, and no crown-the first of its kind. “The Freak is counterculture in watchmaking,” asserts François-Xavier Hotier, President of Ulysse Nardin Americas. “It breaks all the rules we knew before.”  In order to break the rules, you must know the rules, and Ulysse Nardin’s more than 175-year history is proof the brand knows a thing or two about traditional watchmaking. In the early days, the maison built a reputation for its marine chronometers and complex pocket watches. Even into the 21st Century, Ulysse Nardin has continued to emphasize its commitment to artistic craft, acquiring its own enamel-dial manufacture in 2011, a decade after the introduction of the Freak. Now, the latest incarnation of the Freak fully embodies the brand’s attention to the future, present, and past.  At Watches & Wonders earlier this spring, I...

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Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci Worn & Wound
Jun 6, 2024

Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci

Hodinkee and Parisian concept shop Merci have just released the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition for Hodinkee for their second collaboration together. You’re undoubtedly familiar with Hodinkee, but for those uninitiated to the Marais-based store, Merci embodies Parisian chic while offering a curated selection of products ranging from home goods to fashion. Through its subsidiary brand, Merci Instruments, the company combines a lighthearted approach to watchmaking with an eye towards the past for inspiration.  The design of the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition reflects a vintage aesthetic reminiscent of 1940s dress watches. Unlike traditional round or square cases, this watch features an octagon-shaped frame, adding a modern twist to its classic inspiration. The 36mm case exhibits multiple layers of depth, with a brushed steel rehaut, an anthracite grey hour track, and a vertically brushed center. Notable design details include the blue-painted seconds hand and the NYC and Paris markings at the 6 o’clock position. The watch is completed with an 18mm Honey Brown leather strap, which softens the angular features of this watch. The Beaumarchais H02 is equipped with the ultra-thin Miyota 9039 automatic caliber, which offers a 42-hour power reserve and ensures the 36mm case remains a sleek 9.8mm thick. The stainless steel 316L case is durable and water-resistant up to 10 ATM while the watch is also equipped with a sapphire crystal, making...

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Daniel Arsham Creates Sculptural Pocket Watch with Hublot SJX Watches
Hublot Jun 6, 2024

Daniel Arsham Creates Sculptural Pocket Watch with Hublot

An artist famous for his “eroded” Future Relic works, Daniel Arsham also occupies a prominent place in popular culture thanks to his collaborations with brands from Porsche to Dior to Pokemon. Now he brings his unique style to Hublot with the Arsham Droplet, a sleek pocket watch (or pendant watch) in titanium and sapphire crystal that transforms into a desk clock. The Arsham Droplet reflects the recurring of past-and-future found in many of Mr Arsham’s work. “The [Droplet] looks futuristic to me… like it’s been pulled from the future,” says Mr Arsham, yet “people were last carrying pocket watch a hundred years ago”. Initial thoughts Having spoken to him about watches before, it is clear that Mr Arsham is a collector himself and owns watches that enthusiast would envy. This is why the Droplet is a lot more than many artist-watchmaker collaborations. Daniel Arsham Hublot has done a variety of artist collaborations in the past that were of varying appeal to me personally. I loved the Murakami, less so the Orlinski. The Arsham Droplet is not only appealing, but it is “surprising” as himself Mr Arsham describes it. Not only is it surprising because it’s a pocket watch in a novel shape and material, but also because “it doesn’t contain iconic elements I’ve used in the past” says Mr Arsham. The Droplet is not merely an “eroded” wristwatch or one dressed in Arsham colours. Instead it was conceived from the ground up, and the result is a fascinat...

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#TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 Fratello
Breitling Navitimer Ref 806 Jun 6, 2024

#TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806

The Breitling Navitimer 806 with a black dial and sub-dials was on my wish list for quite a time. But it is not an easy watch to get your hands on. Despite that fact, I had two of them within the last two years. Well, as of today, I don’t have any either anymore. Let’s […] Visit #TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Expensive Watches On Cheap Straps Fratello
Jun 6, 2024

Fratello Talks: Expensive Watches On Cheap Straps

Hello there! Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, we’re discussing the topic of wearing expensive watches on cheap straps. Does it make sense to wear a €3,000–10,000 watch on a €10 strap? Does a €300 OEM strap make sense to begin with? And where do you truly get your money’s worth in […] Visit Fratello Talks: Expensive Watches On Cheap Straps to read the full article.

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Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Father’s Day Gift Guide Worn & Wound
Seiko SNE039 as Jun 5, 2024

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Father’s Day Gift Guide

When it comes to watch collecting, sentimentality is king. Rarity, value retention, and specifications all matter, but it’s often the watch that was either given as a gift or passed down that stands the test of time. (Such is the case with yours truly, who received a Seiko SNE039 as a gift from his granddad ten years ago, which has kicked off a passion culminating in writing what you are reading at this very moment.) So as Father’s Day approaches and our DADS AND GRADS SALE is live, we thought we’d put together a gift guide for the dad, grandad, or father figure in your life. From durable watches and clocks and gear, to slick storage options, these should provide a great starting point and inspiration. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When it comes to watch collecting, sentimentality is king. Rarity, value retention, and specifications all matter, but it’s often the watch that was either given as a gift or passed down that stands the test of time. (Such is the case with yours truly, who received a Seiko SNE039 as a gift from his granddad ten years ago, which has kicked off a passion culminating in writing what you are reading at this very moment.) So as Father’s Day approaches and our DADS AND GRADS SALE is live, we thought we’d put together a gift guide for the dad, grandad, or father figure in your lif...

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Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot Fratello
Longines Jun 5, 2024

Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot

At Fratello, we focus on watches, and 99.9% of the time, that means ones for the wrist. However, it’s interesting that the wristwatch is still in its relative infancy. It was the pocket watch that loomed large in prior centuries. Today, we’ll look at two gems from the twilight of the pocket watch era. These […] Visit Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot to read the full article.

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Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar Jun 5, 2024

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition

Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve. Initial thoughts Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet. Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1. Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment. The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range. Bang for your buck The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time a...

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Value Proposition – Hamilton Brings Bright Colours to its Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm Monochrome
Hamilton Brings Bright Colours Jun 5, 2024

Value Proposition – Hamilton Brings Bright Colours to its Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm

As we’ve recently seen, colours are everywhere. From accessible to high-end timepieces, watchmakers dare to explore the entire colour spectrum, bringing boldness and fun to all sorts of watches. With summer right around the corner, it is the perfect time for Hamilton to add a splash of colours to one of its classics, a go-anywhere-do-anything […]

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Hands-On: Rolex Day-Date With A White Dial And Deconstructed Roman Numerals Fratello
Rolex Day-Date Jun 5, 2024

Hands-On: Rolex Day-Date With A White Dial And Deconstructed Roman Numerals

When I assembled my list of favorites from this year’s Watches and Wonders, I didn’t even mention the Rolex Day-Date with the new white dial and deconstructed Roman numerals. Honestly, I didn’t think much of it because it’s way out of my league budget-wise, and it seems like such a small update that it didn’t […] Visit Hands-On: Rolex Day-Date With A White Dial And Deconstructed Roman Numerals to read the full article.

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Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Jun 5, 2024

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

For Tudor, 2024 was a year of safe bets, with the only completely new model family, the Black Bay 58 GMT, being an almost guaranteed success from the get-go. Overtly referencing sought-after vintage GMT Master models from sister brand Rolex, the BB58 GMT further solidifies Tudor’s dominant position in its category. While the big story last year was Tudor’s move out of its parents’ basement and into its own manufacture in Le Locle, this year was comparatively tame, focused on expanding the line-up of METAS-certified Black Bay models. Initial thoughts Tudor is one of the Swiss watch industry’s great success stories of the last decade. In a market in which high-end products have enjoyed the lion’s share of growth, Tudor has achieved an enviable market position by consistently improving design and quality while maintaining affordable pricing. The brand is also listening to the community, and introducing products that are likely to have built-in demand; the BB58 GMT is emblematic of this formula. Beyond its signature gilt accents and black and burgundy “Coke” bezel, the big story is of course the packaging of a true “flyer” GMT functionality in the smaller Black Bay 58 case format. The original Black Bay GMT, introduced in 2018, was beefier, at 41 mm in diameter and nearly 15 mm thick (14.6 mm to be specific). The Black Bay Pro shrunk the diameter to 39 mm, but the thickness stayed the same, resulting in a watch that felt overly thick. The New BB58 GMT address...

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Maen and seconde/seconde/ Collaborate on their Second Manhattan Worn & Wound
Maen Jun 4, 2024

Maen and seconde/seconde/ Collaborate on their Second Manhattan

Just last week, Chris Antzoulis brought you a profile of Romaric André, the designer behind seconde/seconde/. At this point, most of you who will find this story will know all about Romaric and seconde/seconde/, so the usual introductory blurb explaining what this is, exactly, can easily be excised. It’s probably enough to say that over the last few years, seconde/seconde/ has become ubiquitous, collaborating with brands of all kinds and at all price points. It’s gotten to the point where much of the conversation around these collaborations is not actually about the collaboration or the design, but about the momentum of André’s brand. His watches, once rare and genuinely special, are now the subject of a seemingly weekly (an exaggeration, but not a huge one) limited edition. It’s impossible not to ask where we’re heading, and how we’ll get there.  Maybe part of the answer lies in the latest collaboration (at least by my count – there could be a new announcement buried in my inbox that I haven’t seen yet). The new watch is André’s second collaboration with Maen, one of our favorite small brands producing watches that truly impress with their design and finishing, always priced well below what you would expect. Their first collaboration, a limited edition version of the Manhattan with a cocktail inspired dial, was issued last year and sold out immediately. It was (and still is) one of my favorite seconde/seconde/ pieces. It’s playful, a natural visual...

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