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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Three Low Profile Watches for Travelers Worn & Wound
Feb 28, 2024

Three Low Profile Watches for Travelers

As spring and summer approach, no doubt many of you (and certainly we) have aspirations to travel more – or have already laid plans. Of course, one of the joys of watch collecting and enthusiasm is being able to travel and forge new memories with our watches. The ideal travel watch is arguably one that doesn’t skimp on any functionality but also doesn’t shout too loudly. Even beyond watch theft, we want traveling to be about the experiences and people and not only about the watches. To that end, this edition of the Windup Watch Shop Chronicle aims to highlight watches that would make solid travel companions thanks to their low-key profiles and relatively affordable price tags. Regardless of which direction you take, there’s adventure to be had ahead. As spring and summer approach, no doubt many of you (and certainly we) have aspirations to travel more – or have already laid plans. Of course, one of the joys of watch collecting and enthusiasm is being able to travel and forge new memories with our watches. The ideal travel watch is arguably one that doesn’t skimp on any functionality but also doesn’t shout too loudly. Even beyond watch theft, we want traveling to be about the experiences and people and not only about the watches. To that end, this edition of the Windup Watch Shop Chronicle aims to highlight watches that would make solid travel companions thanks to their low-key profiles and relatively affordable price tags. Regardless of which direction you ta...

Watch Auctions And Temptation: A Cautionary Tale Fratello
Feb 28, 2024

Watch Auctions And Temptation: A Cautionary Tale

As hunter-gatherers by nature, we humans have always liked collecting. And when it comes to collecting, one attribute has always stood out as desirable - rarity. When something is rare, it’s exclusive by definition. Not many can possess a rare item. This rarity and desirability make such items valuable. Unfortunately, since greed is also a […] Visit Watch Auctions And Temptation: A Cautionary Tale to read the full article.

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland SJX Watches
Cartier Tank LC Feb 28, 2024

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland

To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...

Introducing – Ralph Lauren Introduces a New 42mm Case Size into its Rugged Safari Collection Monochrome
Feb 28, 2024

Introducing – Ralph Lauren Introduces a New 42mm Case Size into its Rugged Safari Collection

American designer Ralph Lauren has forged an emporium on his vision of laid-back sophistication carefully choreographed in settings designed to evoke a certain lifestyle. Ralph Lauren’s preppie collegiate apparel incarnated by the Polo shirt of 1971, for instance, was equated with the game of polo, and his Safari apparel collection of 1984 harnessed the designer’s […]

Tissot PR516 Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Feb 27, 2024

Tissot PR516 Chronograph Review

Founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a vast and diverse collection of timepieces, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board. Throughout its history, and starting as early as 1938, when a Tissot watch was used to time a series of Alpine ski races, Tissot has also been a watchmaker with close ties to sports - from tennis’s Davis Cup in 1957, to its close timing partnerships with bicycling and motorcycling championships from the 1980s to today, to its recent high-profile status as official timing partner of the NBA. And while Tissot is probably not the first brand that leaps to mind when you think of motorsports-inspired timepieces, it was indisputably one of the pioneers of that genre, a style most clearly and boldly expressed in the PR516 collection, a mainstay of the Tissot portfolio that has undergone a significant, vintage-inspired refresh in 2024.  Tissot’s association with motor racing, and the seed from which the original PR 516 (originally spelled with a space between letters and numerals, and later hyphenated) would spring, began with what was essentially a fan letter from a satisfied customer. In 1958, Tissot received a signed photograph from a Swiss racing driver named Harry Zweifel, which was accompanied by a note in German that read, “Meine Tissot ist an jedem Rennen dabei,” or “My Tissot is ...

Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces New Entries Feb 27, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials

The latest release from Louis Erard expands their Excellence Petite Seconde range, and includes another release in that collection’s 39mm case size. Louis Erard has really become a collector favorite over the last few years with their many collaborative limited editions and (relatively) affordable ways to buy into design codes that traditionally represent true high luxury watchmaking, and they’ve done it mostly on the back of a 42mm case. It’s always notable when we see them release something new in their easier to wear 39mm case size, and with the Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloche (in two sizes) we also have a watch that’s really playing into that high luxury aesthetic with an unusually complex dial. These watches are really a celebration of guilloche itself, and seek to present the decorative technique in a more classical way than something like the brand’s much more contemporary guilloche LE from a few years ago. The larger 42mm watch features gray and black tones, while the smaller 39mm watch features a rich blue and gray for contrast.  The dials are made in four parts, and highlight contrasting guilloche patterns. The central section has a traditional wave-like pattern that is meant to cast light directly from the dial’s center. An outer section, where you’ll find the hour track, features what’s known as a “panier” motif, which has the appearance of slightly staggered scales. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds subdial at the 6:00 posi...

Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Dato “Glassbox” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Dato “Glassbox” When Feb 27, 2024

Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Dato “Glassbox”

When TAG Heuer revamped the Carrera in 2023 to create the “Glassbox”, it managed to transform a vintage remake into something more modern. The result was praised by enthusiasts, and arguably expanded the brand’s audience. This year TAG Heuer built on the same concept with the Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, a design inspired by the ref. 3147 of 1968. Featuring an unusual date window at nine, the Dato has a single 30-minute register at three o’clock, giving it an asymmetric layout that still has visual balance. Quirky dial design aside, the Dato is standard Glassbox, right down to the highly domed crystal and in-house TH20 movement. Initial Thoughts I write this as the owner of the Carrera “Glassbox” with a black dial, nicknamed “reverse panda”, which was my first-ever TAG Heuer. I was never really a fan of the brand before but when I saw it, I was impressed by the aesthetics. Most striking was how much the dial stands out when on the wrist due to the relatively short lugs. I ended up pulling the trigger on the Glassbox after a few months of contemplation. The Carrera Glassbox in the “reverse panda” colourway On paper, the Dato is not much different from the original Glassbox, since it has exact same specifications aside from the dial’s colour and layout as well as a minor movement tweak to remove two counters. In reality, however, the aesthetic changes make it an entirely different watch. The Dato is a cleaner design that gives something of a dress-watch...

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Grand Seiko Quartz Value Is Unbeatable Fratello
Grand Seiko Quartz Value Feb 27, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Grand Seiko Quartz Value Is Unbeatable

Pre-owned Grand Seiko quartz watches come with Rollie-beating Zaratsu-polished greatness at no extra cost. So, where’s the catch? There is none. I know many of you are still on the fence about even considering quartz for your collection, and I understand you. I was there myself for years until the charm of budget-winning meca-quartz got […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Grand Seiko Quartz Value Is Unbeatable to read the full article.

Hands-On: Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar References Worn & Wound
Zenith s New Chronomaster Sport Feb 26, 2024

Hands-On: Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar References

Earlier this month, Zenith introduced their first new watches of the year at LVMH Watch Week. The new releases fill out their core Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original lines with new colorways and, for the Original, a classic complication reintroduced for the first time in a modern context. Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan got to spend some time with the new watches recently, and their thoughts, and Kat’s photos, are below. Stay tuned for a more detailed look at the new titanium version of the Chronomaster Sport coming soon. Kat Shoulders  When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport came out a few years ago, it caused quite the stir in the watch community. I always felt the watch was under-appreciated with its constant comparisons to the Daytona. What Zenith has done with the technology of the El Primero movement, renowned for its accuracy and high frequency, is amazing and it’s a shame this chronograph gets so often overlooked.  It was no surprise that when this year’s new Zenith releases came out, I was immediately drawn to the Chronomaster Sport series. While there aren’t any technical changes (not that they were needed), the new case materials were pleasant updates that have swayed me to consider picking one up. The titanium version is absolutely stellar and as many of you know, I’m not the biggest fan of the material, so that should go to tell you how cool this watch really is. The matte finishing is honestly the perfect choice for this sporty chronograph and I...

Farer Updates their World Timer Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Updates their World Timer Feb 26, 2024

Farer Updates their World Timer Collection

Introduced in 2019, Farer’s World Timer series has continued to garner attention for the brand and has become one of their most popular collections to date. Between a nearly pitch-perfect design for the dial and the impressive central rotating 24-hour disc and a bidirectional internal bezel, the wearer has the ability to read 24 time zones simultaneously.  Now, the Britain-based company has released a new iteration of the World Time collection, each with notable enhancements, reintroducing favorites like the Roché and Markham alongside the introduction of the all-new Foxe model in a striking green hue. Those familiar with the collection’s previous design will notice updated hour and minute hands, adopting a sleeker alpha shape to complement the watches’ aesthetics. Moreover, adjustments to the rotating bezel showcase city replacements: Chicago has replaced Mexico City, Beijing has replaced Hong Kong, and lastly, Paris has been replaced by Bienne to mark where the World Timers are produced. Less conspicuous is the update to the World Time’s movement. The collection now houses a customized version of the Sellita SW330-1 movement, specifically tailored to accommodate a rotating 24-hour disc instead of a traditional GMT hand. This modification, along with an upgraded mainspring, extends the power reserve to an impressive 50 hours.  As mentioned, three color options are available for this update. One can choose between Roche, Markham, and Foxe.  The Roché model com...

News – Omega Raises Over CHF 500k for Charity Orbis with 11 MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold Suitcases Monochrome
Omega Raises Over CHF 500k Feb 26, 2024

News – Omega Raises Over CHF 500k for Charity Orbis with 11 MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold Suitcases

Partnering with auctioneer Sotheby’s, Omega has recently offered for sale 11 unprecedented MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold suitcases. Surfing on these vibe of the Moonshine gold watches wasn’t the idea, however. There was a good cause behind these sales, as all of the auction proceeds are to be given to Omega’s long-term partner, Orbis International. And with […]

Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector Fratello
Feb 26, 2024

Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector

In this installment of Back To Basics, I’ll go into typical mistakes that beginner watch collectors often make. These are the common pitfalls that newcomers might find themselves running into. After reading this, you, as a new watch enthusiast, will hopefully be able to steer clear of them! And that might just save you some […] Visit Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector to read the full article.

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again) SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Feb 26, 2024

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again)

To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Musée Soulages, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) is launching a second edition inspired by Pierre Soulages (1919-2022). The Hampton Polyptyque Edition “Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary” features a dial modelled on Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I. Inspired by the style of the French abstractionist, the dial reproduces the dense impasto of texture and shapes of the artwork. As with the first edition, it has an all-black case and an overall composition devoid of colour, except for the branding and hands. Initial thoughts While watchmakers often partner with museums, Baume & Mercier’s tie-up with the Musée Soulages’ that started in 2022 yielded the brand’s most compelling watch to date – which is saying a lot for this anaemic brand. The second edition is essentially identical to the first, but with a different artwork on the dial. Though simple, the latest Soulages watch still manages to capture the essence of his work on a tiny canvas.  However, as is always the case with limited editions, the number of editions is inversely proportional to desirability and appeal. While the first edition was special – it reputedly sold out swiftly – the second edition is intrinsically less unique. If there are much more on the horizon then the concept will lose much of its interest. The Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” edition from 2022 Priced at US$6,900, the new Soulages edition costs US$1,050 more than the first edition...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57 Fratello
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs Feb 25, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57

Welcome to another edition of Sunday Morning Showdown! With the smell of fresh coffee filling the room, it’s time for a battle of chronographs - the Breitling Chronomat versus the Omega Speedmaster. More specifically, for this week’s battle, Jorg chose the Breitling Chronomat B01 42, and Thomas chose the Omega Speedmaster ’57. The first is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57 to read the full article.