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Fratello
As watch enthusiasts, we love to look back. We point at history’s legendary watch designers as the high priests of our shared passion. We are so focused on history that we may sometimes overlook today’s talents. Luckily, there still are gifted young professionals coming through the ranks. Today, I would like to put a little […] Visit Three Young Watch Designers To Keep An Eye On to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Announced a year ago as only a computer-generated rendering, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription finally arrived in tangible form earlier this year with a finished prototype that was exhibited at LVMH Watch Week. At a distance the Tourbillon Souscription is practically indistinguishable from the originals that inspired it. But up close it stands out for the high quality of execution, which in many respects is superior to the originals, as well as the subtle tweaks to the design. The Tourbillon Souscription certainly bodes well for the revival of the brand, though its future will hinge on novel and original creations. Like all future Daniel Roth watches, this was produced by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the Geneva manufacture owned by Louis Vuitton that has vertically integrated itself at a rapid pace in recent years. Initial thoughts I was surprised when I first examined the Tourbillon Souscription prototype. It manages to capture the feel of the originals, but even surpasses them in some aspects, most notably the guilloche dial. It’s worth noting the dial is done in-house by LFT’s recently-acquired guilloche workshop, though the production examples will have a dial made by Voutilainen. This level of quality certainly raises exceptions for future watches from Daniel Roth and the wider LFT stable, which includes Gerald Genta. Amongst the other visible upgrades are the decoration on the base plate visible below the tourbillon. This reflects the new calibre within that...
Teddy Baldassarre
Chiming watches represent one of the most coveted types of complicated watches in the world - despite the fact that they are also one of the most archaic and, in practical terms, obsolete. The most popular type is the minute repeater, which chimes the time audibly on demand; it was invented for pocket watches in the 18th and 19th Century as a practical method of alerting its wearer of the current time in the dark, in the era before electric lighting and luminous details on watch dials. Definitively regarded as more a luxury today than a tool, a minute repeater has an independent chiming mechanism with two small hammers striking coiled metal gongs, generally activated by a slide on the side of the case, to produce different tones for the hour, quarter hour, and minute. The most sophisticated of these chiming watches might also include a grande sonnerie, and/or petite sonnerie: the former perpetually strikes the hour every hour and the hour plus the quarter-hour at every quarter, without any need for the wearer to activate it with a slide; the latter strikes the hour every hour, and the quarter-hour (but not the hour) every quarter, also independently of any activation by the wearer. Sometimes the chiming functions are even coordinated with moving, elaborate dial animations called automata. Watches with chiming functions tend to be rather rare and almost always prodigiously expensive, but a handful of watchmakers have managed to create examples that are slightly less compl...
Worn & Wound
There comes a time when we must find the right shoes to strap our favorite watches onto our wrists. And let’s face it, we live in a time where there are many options to choose from at many price points. Besides the popular NATO-style straps and Tropic-style rubber straps, we all sorta need a good leather one in our arsenal. Or perhaps a soft perlon for these hotter days of the year. At the risk of generalizing a tad too much, I’d say that we more or less see the same straps being offered on the market everyday. And thus shopping for straps becomes a little bit overwhelming and boring just the same. Sometimes, however, a brand creates something new or proposes a fresh take on a popular style. And that’s what we’re going to talk about today. Based in Singapore, RSM has been offering unique collections of well-made straps at competitive prices since 2019. The brand started with a single-pass Herringbone Twill strap and has evolved quite a bit since. While it offers poly-cotton and various types of robust polyester straps, today we’re going to focus on two of RSM’s most recent creations: 2-piece and reversible silk straps as well as a 2-piece and one-piece Camo that has more than a few tricks up its sleeves. What will perhaps become immediately apparent is that RSM goes the extra mile to make their straps look and feel special. Whether it is how it came about finding an artisanal silk maker or new ways to weave polyester fibers together. While most straps we se...
Deployant
Louis Moinet extends their double tourbillon Astronef collection with a new funky model which they call the Techno with a dial made of silicon wafer.
SJX Watches
Having just announced its first-ever Formula 1 sponsorship, Tudor also quietly revealed a Black Bay Ceramic for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One (VCARB) racing team. As with the standard model, the case is black ceramic, but instead of the usual black, the dial is in a striking blue that matches the livery of the team’s car (and the Visa logo). Like almost all of its special edition watches, the new Black Bay Ceramic is not for public sale but instead meant for members of VCARB team. The brand hasn’t released any official statement regarding the watch, and all that is known for now are two portraits of VCARB driver Daniel Ricciardo wearing it. The VCARB car for the 2024 season. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts Tudor has grown imaginative and adventurous in its products and marketing in recent years, especially compared to a decade ago, which stands in contrast to its still conservative sister brand Rolex. In that regard, Tudor has become something of a platform for the Rolex group to experiment with new ideas and concepts, which was what Rolex once was decades ago, before it became the world’s biggest and most valuable watchmaker. Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Tudor has been particularly active in collaborations with notable organisations, ranging from elite military units to America’s Cup competitors. Each collaboration, in turn, results in a watch. Even though Tudor has made a good number of collaborative special edition watches to date...
Fratello
For these Pre-Owned Spotlight articles, we often pick watches from fairly typical brands. That’s partially because those watches are easier to find. However, that doesn’t mean we overlook the less obvious brands. Since visiting the Hermès and Louis Vuitton manufactures last year, I’ve also started looking for pre-owned watches from brands better known for their […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Showstoppers From Hermès And Piaget And A Dive Watch From Dior to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
In Martin Green's opinion, one of the most incredible qualities of Nomos is that they know how to make a small detail have large impact. The Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black has hands and the numerals on the date disc in gold and that makes a big statement.
Fratello
Today, we’ll take a look at a relatively nondescript Universal Genève Microtor dress watch. It’s worth a deeper look for several reasons, though. The condition, the case material, and the purpose for its existence all come together to create a lovely package. This is a lovely piece on its own, but why not explore the […] Visit Vintage Watches: A Universal Genève Microtor Dress Watch In 9K Gold to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
If you would've told Quentin R. Bufogle six months ago that he'd pass on a Breguet Type XX in favor of an Omega, he might've thought you were crazy. What changed his mind? Granted that in terms of sheer aesthetics, it ticks all the right boxes for him. But there's much more to it.
Monochrome
Trends come and go, and we see the same happening in the watchmaking industry. Retro is still very much hot, so it’s only natural multiple brands dive into their archives and see what can be brought back to life one way or another. Other brands might rather take a prised baby into new directions by […]
Time+Tide
Why is Citizen Eco-Drive underrated? Adam weighs in on the solar-powered legend here.The post Why is Citizen Eco-Drive so underrated? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Welcome to another edition of Sunday Morning Showdown! Grab a hot drink and settle in for a brawl between two affordable field watches. Like the upcoming Six Nations game, it’s France versus England, with Serica facing off against Studio Underd0g. Serica started its journey in watches by releasing the 4512 field watch, the predecessor of […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Serica 6190 Field Chronometer Vs. Studio Underd0g 02Series Field to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Koen Simon is a 28-year-old watch collector from The Netherlands. A regular reader of Quill & Pad, he is a fan of high-end watchmaking. He recently sent us this story about how and why he acquired his rare two-tone Orion timepiece by Christiaan van der Klaauw, which we are pleased to share here.
Time+Tide
Omega just launched 20 new Constellation models that all have meteorite dials and all range from US$8,400 to US$42,400 in price.The post Omega just launched 20 new Constellation references in 4 sizes that all have meteorite dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
For the first time in 20 years, the 103 is going manual again.
Deployant
The Sinn Series U50 HYDRO adds Sinn's HYDRO technology to its iconic U50 dive watch. The watch is oil-filled to prevent reflection, for optimal underwater readability. The 41mm dive watch is water-resistant to 500 meters and uses a quartz movement powered by a long-lasting lithium battery.
Quill & Pad
Vladimir Négault, founder of Ataelier Haute Complication, a relatively new independent watchmaker based in Geneva who is making some of the most interesting and inventive watches Ian Skellern has ever seen.
Time+Tide
What makes watch designer Matt Smith-Johnson, er, tick?The post Crimes against typography: adventures in watch design with Matt Smith-Johnson appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Mr Jones Watches is an indie, artsy watch company on the rise. It’s not hard to see why. Playful dials thumb their noses at convention in watches decidedly not for telling time. In the digital age, when watches are obsolete, Mr Jones Watches celebrates disconnecting from the matrix and having a little fun. I had […] Visit A Special Tour Of Mr Jones Watches And Interview With Crispin Jones to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Introducing: a set of four new watches from Vero-the Vero Forest Service edition lineup. Check out photos, specs, and pricing!
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! eBay Finds #92 Vintage Hamilton Octagonal Men’s Watch We have a neat one to start off this week, a vintage circa 1970’s Hamilton octagonal gold plated presentation watch with the Exxon logo on the dial. I love these company branded dials, they really provide a unique look. The gold plated case looks new, and has an octagonal shape with both polished and brushed finishes, with a steel snap-on caseback. The white dial is clean as a whistle, with simple stick markers and hands, a day/date window at 3 o’clock, and of course the Exxon logo above the 6. It comes on a stretch bracelet that also has brushed and polished finishes and compliments the watch perfectly. Best of all this gem comes with inner and outer boxes and the original hang tag! View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin Here’s a sweet vintage Lord Elgin dress watch from 1953. The 24k gold filled case measures 25mm wide, and has fancy bowtie hooded lugs. The case is in nice shape, with no wearthrough on the lugs, but I do see some brassing on the crown side of the case. The white dial is absolutely immaculate, with applied gold markers that are alternating Arabic numerals and little stars. Great piece that would look sha...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Full review of the Casio F-91W in two different colorways. Check out specs and photos of this classic digital watch along with our analysis.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project, you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Canister Fieldmaster The Fieldmaster is Canister’s inaugural wristwatch. Its inspiration comes from a career as an active-duty member of the Canadian Armed Forces, and first-hand knowledge of the consequences when tools and equipment fail. As a result, Canister’s aim is to make rugged and dependable tools built for a purpose. As such, the Fieldmaster has been rigorously tested in Brandon, Manitoba, where extreme winter conditions of minus 40 are common, as are 14-hour workdays. The Fieldmaster is made of 316L stainless-steel, has a flat sapphire crystal and a ceramic bezel insert. Powering it is the upscale Miyota 9015 automatic movement and the dial numerals and hands are coated with a generous amount of C3 SuperLumninova. The size is 41mm in diameter, 50mm from lug-to-lug, 12mm thick and its lug width is 20mm. It is also water-resistant to 200m. Three dial colors are available (black, blue, and white) and it comes with a stainless-steel bracelet, a ru...
Time+Tide
An NFL QB named Jared, went to a jeweller called Jared, and got 8 Breitling watches for his teammates. This is not a joke...The post NFL QB Jared Goff “went to Jared” and got 8 Breitling watches to thank his offensive line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! After last week’s Chinese New Year watches, it’s time to look at some production errors, specifically discolored dials. Paying extra money for a production defect seems like a crazy thing to do. In the world of Rolex, however, this is far from an uncommon phenomenon, with dials like these sometimes […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Watches With Discolored Dials - Featuring A Datejust, An Explorer II, A Cosmograph Daytona, And More… to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The watch industry is rife with examples of watch brands turning to the past for new releases. The interest in vintage designs has led to some fun and unique long-forgotten or long-inaccessible designs finding a new audience. Consider the Timex World Time 1972 Reissue bringing some 70s funk to the 2020s. Or the Tudor Black Bay 54 giving Rolex Submariner fans the closest thing you can get to an original Sub without spending tens of thousands of dollars. And now, in the last few years watch brands have seen fit to revisit one of the most interesting and obscure vintage designs out there: the California dial. The California dial is the nickname given to watches that have Roman numerals on the upper half of the watch and Arabic on the lower half, typically with lines at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock spots and a triangle at the 12. This unique dial has a strong association with Panerai, which has featured watches with the dial in its catalog for some time now, but, like many developments in watchmaking, it was actually created by Rolex. Patented in 1942, the dial was originally known as the “error-proof” dial, designed to be more easily read because the different style numerals “clearly distinguishes these two halves” of the watch and “the Roman numerals chosen are those which are the simplest to perform and the easiest to read.” (Seems unnecessary, but it certainly wound up looking cool.) The modern PAM01349 The error-proof dial picked up the “California” moniker w...
Deployant
Vulcain releases a revival of their Grand Prix, now in a 39mm stainless steel case with 3 dial variants. Available from today.
Quill & Pad
Konstantin Chaykin has designed, developed, and manufactured his own automatic movement, caliber K.33.3, which features a tungsten micro-rotor. The movement makes its debut in the unique piece Zebra Wristmon.
Hodinkee
Out of left field or from the dark side of the moon, these new watches in steel and titanium come in nearly any color you like.
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