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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One Oct 3, 2019

Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”

Tudor is taking part in Only Watch for the third time, but the watchmaker has arguably created its most unique timepiece to date for the biennial charity auction. While Tudor’s earlier Only Watch were variants of existing models, first the Heritage Black Bay One and then the Black Bay Bronze One, the Black Bay Ceramic One is wholly different from all current (and past) watches, it is a piece unique. Announced just a few weeks before the similarly all-black Black Bay Chrono Dark limited edition, the Black Bay Ceramic One is essentially Tudor’s signature dive watch, but with a black ceramic case. Though Tudor does have ceramic watches in the line-up, namely the usually forgotten Fastrider Black Shield, the material has not been used for the bestselling Black Bay, until now. Though the watch is entirely unique, the look is a fairly common one – all-black, everywhere. That being said, it’s an attractive one, especially for a dive watch like this. The dial is done in different textures and shades of black for legibility. So the markings on the dial are printed in glossy black lacquer to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. And the Super-Luminova is also black, or more specifically standard Super-Luminova with pigments added for colour, which diminishes the green night-time glow substantially. While that’s not a practical look for an actual dive watch, it is a cool look for a “desk diver”. The bezel continues the shades-of-black colour schem...

Experiencing Panerai’s Marina Militare – we wish we were there Time+Tide
Panerai s Marina Militare – Oct 3, 2019

Experiencing Panerai’s Marina Militare – we wish we were there

One of the most interesting watch ‘releases’ this year was Panerai’s series of experiential watches. Basically, the brand released a series of watches with a particular focus - diving, exploration, the armed forces - each with an associated ambassador or partner. One release was the regular version of the watch, and the second was a … ContinuedThe post Experiencing Panerai’s Marina Militare – we wish we were there appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 3, 2019

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer

Designer of some of the most striking wristwatches of the 1960s, jeweller Gilbert Albert (1930-2019), passed away in his hometown of Geneva on October 1 , 2019. He was 90. Son of a newspaper deliveryman, Albert trained as a jeweller at Geneva’s l’Ecole des Arts Industriels and was only in his mid 20s when he joined Patek Philippe in 1955 as a designer. In his seven years at the watchmaker, which was then led by Henri Stern, himself a trained jeweller, Albert was responsible for some of the most radical watch cases of the era. These strikingly asymmetrical timepieces, like the Asymétrie wristwatches and Ricochet pocket watches, are still incredible designs six decades on. Gilbert Albert. Photo – lenouvelliste.ch He then set up his own workshop in 1962, where he became known for the use of unusual materials like coral and meteorite, all installed in quirky, unique jewellery desirable enough that frequent fakes eventually emerged. Albert also designed watches and jewellery for other watchmakers, most notably Omega, where he created several collections, including the Maille d’Or and Arabesque d’Or, all characterised by a distinctive, almost organic style. With his success, Albert built a small but highly regarded jewellery business. He opened his first store in his hometown in 1973, sited on rue de la Corraterie, a street just outside the walls of Geneva’s Old Town. Ten years later that was followed by a boutique in Zurich. Albert’s boutique in Gen...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Oct 1, 2019

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in Black Ceramic

The last time Audemars Piguet had a skeletonised Royal Oak perpetual calendar in the catalogue, it was 2015. The skeleton perpetual is familiar enough that it doesn’t seem to have been missing for that long, but it’s been a half-decade. In the mean time, Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled the next generation of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, with the case widened to 41mm, and then introduced it in black ceramic, and only just, in white ceramic. And it took some time to develop the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar ever. But now the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked is back, in proper, fine form. Putting a skeleton movement inside the bestselling Royal Oak in black ceramic is obvious, and could have been done in the easiest way possible. But AP went one better; it developed a new calibre, the 5135, that is not merely open-worked, but also redesigned for maximum aesthetic effect. “This is the first time in many years that AP has introduced an openworked perpetual calendar wristwatch,” says Michael Friedman, the head of complications at AP, “The effort here was to create an experience of contrast and play of light.” I’d say AP succeeded. The watch pictured is a travelling prototype, so pardon the cleanliness of the movement Ceramic and the Royal Oak But first, a small, modestly technical digression on the material and the watch. The case and bracelet are made of black ceramic, specifically zirconium oxide stabilised with yttrium oxide – essential for...

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407 Oct 1, 2019

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407

The Snowflake looms large in the minds (and on the wrists) of Grand Seiko fans - the 10-year-old titanium watch is an undisputed champion, and deservedly so. But now there’s a phalanx of other Snowflakes in the family – the dial comes with gold highlights and even in dressier cases. But one Snowflake that stands … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Oct 1, 2019

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration

The epic Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 was massive not just in scale and numbers, but also in the Patek Philippe executives who travelled halfway across the world from Geneva to Singapore just for the event. All of the company’s top management is the town for the event, including president Thierry Stern, chief executive Claude Peny, and commercial director Jerome Pernici. But perhaps the most interesting personality for a hardcore watch geek is Dr Peter Friess, curator of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. A studied man who’s spent his life in museums and cultural institutions, Dr Friess is an art historian by training but also a true horologist. He’s the sort of guy who gets deeply excited over the “new old stock” 369-year old Cremsdorff pocket watch the museum recently acquired, and is familiar with the catgut used in 16th century chain and fusee mechanisms. Dr Peter Friess at the Singapore exhibition, with a portrait of Antoine Norbert de Patek behind him The first ever Patek Philippe wristwatch; importantly, it was not conceived as a bangle with a pendant watch movement bolted on, instead it is a timepiece for the wrist Unsurprisingly, the German native is also a professional watch- and clockmaker. Dr Friess joined the Patek Philippe Musuem as Director and Curator exactly seven years ago. Before that, he was President of the Tech Museum of Innovation in California, as well as a curator at the Smithsonian where he put tog...

Vacheron Constantin’s Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin s Creative Director Christian Sep 30, 2019

Vacheron Constantin’s Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design

Editor’s note: This interview is an old one, from SIHH 2015, and the Harmony is a watch that isn’t a massive focus for Vacheron Constantin right now, but the brand’s Creative Director, Mr Christian Selmoni, is one of the most articulate and interesting creative minds in the watch business, and definitely worth a read, especially … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin’s Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Sep 29, 2019

Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches

While there are some enthusiasts out there who feel as though the vast majority of new watches released at this year’s Baselworld and SIHH were a bit … safe, there were still some real stunners unveiled from legacy outfits like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. And, because the collective products of these three aforementioned … ContinuedThe post Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne Time+Tide
Franck Muller Sep 29, 2019

EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne

The Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours landed in Melbourne last week, and not only was I fortunate to take a closer look at it, but the kind people at Franck Muller invited me to celebrate it with them at a dining event with some of their important local clients. It was a great opportunity to … ContinuedThe post EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203: You Can Have It All Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Sep 26, 2019

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203: You Can Have It All

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203 has a bold appearance due to both its generous diameter of 43.5 mm and even more so by the large chronograph pushers and crown. Despite being such a substantial watch, Martin Green was surprised how well it sat and wore on his modestly sized wrist. Here he summarizes a week wearing this versatile all-rounder.

RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement Time+Tide
Seiko s 9F Quartz Movement Sep 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement

SJX Watches recently published an in-depth look at Seiko’s prodigious and fabled 9F Quartz movements, which are now in their 26th year of production. And there’s no question the 9F is a genuinely high-end movement that has taken decades of engineering to perfect. It’s actually a remarkable feat of timekeeping when you think about it … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look: Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 Limited Editions (With Prices) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 Sep 26, 2019

First Look: Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 Limited Editions (With Prices)

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 opened today for a sneak preview of the monumental showcase of watchmaking and horology. It includes everything from watchmaker demonstrations to a look into the art of enamelling, explained by no other than master artisan Anita Porchet herself; more on those in upcoming stories (or you can also buy the hardbound catalogue with proceeds going to charity). For now, here’s a peek at the highly anticipated limited edition watches produced for the event. The outline of the Singapore 2019 collection is simple: four relatively accessible watches, two grand complications, and a variety of unique Rare Handcrafts clocks, pocket- and wristwatches. All of the limited edition watches bear “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019” on the case back, printed if the back is sapphire, and engraved if the back is solid. The first is the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 ref. 5167A-012 in steel, a variation of the standard model. It has a dial with the minute track and seconds hand in red, matched with a red strap. This is limited to 500 pieces, and priced at 22,400 Swiss francs, or 33,500 Singapore dollars. (Full details on the Aquanaut here.) It’s accompanied by the Aquanaut Luce Singapore 2019 ref. 5067A-027 in steel for ladies that has a red dial and strap, also a variation of the standard model. Only 300 will be made, with a retail of 19,900 Swiss francs, or 29,800 Singapore dollars. Also for ladies is the Calatrava Pilot Travel Ti...

INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive Time+Tide
Franck Muller Sep 25, 2019

INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive

In what is a meeting of two of the most significant collections from the Franck Muller manufacture, the Vanguard Crazy Hours is an exciting offering, made even more exciting with the news of an exclusive collection for Asia. The Vanguard Crazy Hours is the first time the brand has housed the famous Crazy Hours movement inside … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.