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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Breguet Reverses Polarity with the Classique 7225 SJX Watches
Breguet Reverses Polarity Oct 23, 2025

Breguet Reverses Polarity with the Classique 7225

Breguet’s 250th anniversary got off to a good start and the momentum continues with the Classique 7225, another take on one of the brand’s most inventive movements. Guaranteed to run within an impressive one second a day, the Classique 7225 contains the cal. 74SC that boasts a high-frequency balance wheel running at an uncommonly rapid 10 Hz, or 72,000 beats per hour. To achieve that without overwhelming friction, the balance pivot is magnetic, allowing it to “float” as it oscillates. The 10 Hz balance was launched some 15 years ago, but its predecessor, the Classique 7727, did not enjoy particularly attractive aesthetics. The Classique 7225 solves the problem with a striking dial modelled on an important series of tourbillon pocket watches from the early 19th century. To accommodate the dial layout, the cal. 74SC incorporates an additional constant seconds that can be instantaneously reset. Notably, the 7225 is not a limited edition, unlike its compatriot, the Classique 7235 launched at the same time. Initial thoughts The 7225 shows that Breguet’s revival is certainly well underway, stewarded by Gregory Kissling, who has been in the top job for slightly over a year. The 7225 isn’t a major revamp of the 7727, but it is far, far more appealing watch. The magnetic-pivot movement was ingenious at launch, and still is, but the 7727 was under-designed and over-logo’ed. With the 7225, Breguet’s ultra-chronometer finally has visual and tactile appeal. And it keeps...

Introducing: The Airain Type 20 70 ANS - Celebrating The Model’s 70th Anniversary Fratello
Oct 23, 2025

Introducing: The Airain Type 20 70 ANS - Celebrating The Model’s 70th Anniversary

Although Airain only returned to the global horological stage in 2020, its roots, famously, go much further back. So much so, actually, that the classic Type 20 turns 70 this year. Naturally, Airain could not let that pass without an appropriate celebration, so here we have the Airain Type 20 70 ANS. Let’s have a […] Visit Introducing: The Airain Type 20 70 ANS - Celebrating The Model’s 70th Anniversary to read the full article.

Introducing – The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision, the Instrument for Night Missions Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision Oct 23, 2025

Introducing – The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision, the Instrument for Night Missions

It’s been 20 years since Parisian brand Bell & Ross released its emblematic BR-01 collection, a striking design – known as the “circle within a square” – inspired by dashboard instruments found in fighter jets. This strong connection with military planes and pilots of all sorts has long been the brand’s defining style, pushing the […]

Introducing – The New Breguet Classique 7235, a Tribute to the Origins of the Breguet Style Monochrome
Breguet Classique 7235 Oct 23, 2025

Introducing – The New Breguet Classique 7235, a Tribute to the Origins of the Breguet Style

Just after the introduction of the new Classique 7225, marking the return of the innovative magnetic pivot, Breguet releases another watch within its 250th anniversary collection. But this time, it’s not about shining a spotlight on one of the founder’s innovations, but rather to pay tribute to design principles defined by A.L. Breguet, to all […]

Introducing – The new Breguet Classique 7225, the Comeback of the 10Hz Chronometry Watch with Magnetic Pivot Monochrome
Breguet Classique 7225 Oct 23, 2025

Introducing – The new Breguet Classique 7225, the Comeback of the 10Hz Chronometry Watch with Magnetic Pivot

As you might already know as of now, Breguet is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary. And the brand is doing so by releasing watches that are either evolutions of emblematic models – such as the two stunning hand-wound Type XX – or paying tribute to the countless innovations of A.L. Breguet, for instance the […]

Introducing: The Breguet Classique 7225 And 7235 Fratello
Breguet Classique 7225 Oct 23, 2025

Introducing: The Breguet Classique 7225 And 7235

We may be rolling toward the end of 2025, but Breguet is intent on releasing more stunners in celebration of its 250th anniversary as a watchmaker. Thus far, we’ve been treated to some lovely pieces within several of the brand’s collections. The reception has been positive, which is consistent with what is likely to occur […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Classique 7225 And 7235 to read the full article.

In-Depth: The Technical Evolution of Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 23, 2025

In-Depth: The Technical Evolution of Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe approach to watchmaking has developed through a steady accumulation of choices. Since 1839, the manufacture has refined its mechanical language through proportion, regulation, and clarity in construction. Each calibre reflects priorities shaped by experience, built for durability, and adjusted for lasting performance. Understanding the technical evolution of Patek Philippe requires attention to the principles that govern its construction: structural integrity, material stability, and a consistent focus on functional accuracy. Many manufacturers embraced modernity through visible transformation and stylistic experimentation, while Patek Philippe evolved through careful integration of innovation that served enduring mechanical aims. Its development follows a logic defined by proportion, restraint, and the pursuit of lasting technical harmony. The modern-day, expansive manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva From Jean Adrien Philippe’s keyless winding system of the 1840s to the introduction of silicon components in the twenty-first century, progress has remained guided by internal reasoning and accumulated skill. Each movement expresses a study of mechanical relationships refined over time, where advances emerge from clarity of purpose and precision in design. The chapters that follow trace this progression through its historical sequence. Each period reflects a technical response to changing demands: the shift from pocket to wrist, the rise of automati...

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Classic Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Oct 22, 2025

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Classic

When Longines reintroduced the Ultra-Chron back in 2022, many enthusiasts and vintage watch lovers were excited by the possibility of the brand exploring one of their key collections with a new lens. To the surprise of many, the watches that have been introduced in the new-look Ultra-Chron lineup have frequently been on the more contemporary side when it comes to design. For a brand that has become known for raiding the archives, the most revered Ultra-Chrons of old haven’t really been a factor with the new pieces. That changes, however, with the introduction of the new Ultra-Chron Classic, which, as the name suggests, is a riff on the original Ultra-Chron, the one often seen by collectors as the most desirable.  The Ultra-Chron has always existed as a testament to Longines’ commitment to chronometry. When the collection launched in 1967, it was the first time a watch with a movement based on those used in chronometry competitions had been successfully shifted to a mass produced product. The Ultra-Chron was one of several watches released in the 1960s that effectively threw down the gauntlet in the ongoing chronometry wars among many of the biggest Swiss brands (plus Seiko/Grand Seiko). So it makes sense that Longines would return to the original design of one their most historically important watches.  The Ultra-Chron Classic is about as sturdy an example of a clean, midcentury watch design as you’re likely to see. Its circular stainless steel case comes in two si...

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 22, 2025

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch

Citizen's fleet of Promaster Pilot watches offer an array of styles and complications for the aviation-watch enthusiast, and the Nighthawk models occupy a specific niche within the overall collection thanks to their bold, no-nonsense design drawn from military helicopter cockpits. Here is what you should know about the Citizen Nighthawk, and a showcase of the models that have most resonated with enthusiasts. The flight of the Nighthawk begins with the Promaster. In fact, Citizen’s Promaster collection - established in 1989 and built around the concept of rugged yet stylish, multifunctional timepieces aimed at sea, air, and land professionals - could be described as the massive aircraft carrier from which many Citizen pilots’ watches have been launched. From this now-emblematic collection emerged many of the famous Citizen tool watches we’re familiar with today, categorized under Promaster Marine (dive watches including the Eco-Drive and Mechanical Professional Divers as well as the high-tech Aqualand); Promaster Land (including the altimeter-equipped Altichron and ana-digi Combination Watch) and Promaster Sky, which includes GMTs like the Eco-Drive Geo-Trekker and the now-familiar “Hawk” watches with multiple aviation-centric functions, like the Skyhawk, Navihawk, and Nighthawk. What makes the Nighthawk models stand out from their high-flying peers? It is the most military in its aesthetic, with a dial design inspired by the instruments found in the cockpits ...

The James Brand and Timex Team Up Again on a New Version of their Hit GMT Worn & Wound
Timex Team Up Again Oct 22, 2025

The James Brand and Timex Team Up Again on a New Version of their Hit GMT

Timex and The James Brand is a collaboration that just makes a lot of sense. On paper, the two brands appear to be from different worlds. Timex is a historically important, mass market watch brand that at one point or another touches the wrist of just about every enthusiast – a true horological gateway drug. The James Brand is a niche EDC brand and decidedly more contemporary. But what binds them together, I think, is a common willingness to experiment and try new things. The James Brand has a catalog full of practical, innovative tools that owners continuously find new ways to put into use. And Timex has quietly been a real innovator in offering interesting, design oriented watches that represent true value to enthusiasts over these last several years, with the launch of Timex Atelier being the best example. The two brands have come together once again with a follow up to a big hit limited edition from last year in the form of a new GMT with a very on trend dial material.  The new version of the James Brand x Timex Automatic GMT, which they’ve dubbed the “Nocturne Edition,” exists on the same platform as last year’s release, with a few notable tweaks. The first notable update is Timex has swapped the titanium case of the previous version for one in stainless steel. The 41mm case has a tough, sandblasted finish, which is what you’d expect from an EDC oriented brand like TJB. The other big change is the new dial crafted from forged carbon fiber. It has the tell...

First Look – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon in Full Rose Gold Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Oct 22, 2025

First Look – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon in Full Rose Gold

The Defy Skyline collection by Zenith has quickly become the modern pillar of the brand’s angular, integrated, and technical sports collection. We’ve seen the series stretch into complications and materials, most notably last year’s steel and black ceramic Skyline Tourbillons built around the high-frequency El Primero calibre 3630. The latest chapter elevates form and finish. […]

A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36 Fratello
Casio n RZE […] Visit Oct 22, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36

Watch brands are great at celebrating their milestones. It usually leads to one or multiple limited releases commemorating the different events. However, RZE decided to celebrate its fifth anniversary differently. The brand is not releasing a limited edition with a new dial color or another variation of an existing watch. No, for this occasion, RZE […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36 to read the full article.

First Look – New Independent Watchmaking Atelier Aubert & Ramel and their First Watch, the Ouréa Monochrome
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition which Oct 22, 2025

First Look – New Independent Watchmaking Atelier Aubert & Ramel and their First Watch, the Ouréa

Watchmaking prizes and competitions have a remarkable virtue. Their primary vocation is to discover new talents and bring them into the spotlight. A perfect example is the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition, which has been celebrating and supporting young independent watchmakers since 2012. For me, this award was the opportunity to discover the extraordinary talent […]

Introducing – The Bold Colour of the New De Bethune DB28XS Yellow Tones Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XS Yellow Tones If Oct 22, 2025

Introducing – The Bold Colour of the New De Bethune DB28XS Yellow Tones

If you want to talk about an emblematic design of independent watchmaking, then the DB28 should be on the list. Born in 2010, this watch, with its incredible design, would become a working laboratory of innovation for the brand, developing titanium surface treatments and unprecedented materials for the movement. The DB28 and its floating lugs, […]

Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space Fratello
Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - Oct 22, 2025

Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space

When a watch with hands looks alien, it must be an Urwerk. Recently, the brand introduced a non-digital watch that measures time and space with traditional hands on a round dial while still managing to make your watch brain feel weightless. I was spacing out with the Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter when it was still under […] Visit Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space to read the full article.

First Look – The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, the First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai Monochrome
Panerai Oct 22, 2025

First Look – The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, the First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai

For most of its modern life, the Luminor has been a big-wrist proposition, the classic 44mm and 47mm references defined the line’s presence. This spring’s Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 reaffirmed Panerai’s commitment to high-tech casework at the larger end of the spectrum. At the same time, Panerai has been quietly proving that the […]

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 Fratello
Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 Oct 22, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460

By now, we’re accustomed to Panerai and its continuous release schedule during the year. What we didn’t expect was today’s watch, a model with a healthy water resistance rating and a new ceramic case. Oh, and did we mention that the new Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 comes in a 40mm size? Let’s investigate. Just a […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis Pro 1000m - A More Wearable Pro Diver Fratello
Oris Aquis Pro 1000m - Oct 22, 2025

Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis Pro 1000m - A More Wearable Pro Diver

Two years ago, Oris introduced the Aquis Pro 4000m. According to Gerard, it was “a pointless dive watch, hors catégorie, completely unnecessary for daily wear.” But boy, did he love it. Watches are kind of pointless anyway these days, so why not go all the way, right? But for all of you who thought a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis Pro 1000m - A More Wearable Pro Diver to read the full article.