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Time+Tide
We can all pretty much agree that pilot’s watches are awesome, whether or not it’s a historical legend or something more contemporary. There’s something about their utilitarian approach which is inspires our day-to-day lives, letting our imaginations soar whenever we check the time. That said, most pilot’s watch owners don’t actually fly planes. But, if … ContinuedThe post How to use a slide rule bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In a new series, Marcus takes a non-WIS look at the watches he's been shooting - including Studio Underd0g, Tudor, and more.The post Welcome to In the Metal – a distinctly Marcus take on all things watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Labeg's in Melbourne, and the fourth edition of Australia's largest community-run watch and horology convention in Sydney promises more brands and events than ever before.The post A T+T Melbourne Studio event with Labeg & Watchfest 4 in Sydney are both just around the corner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically winding watches. Nivada Grenchen, like many others, struggled through the Quartz Crisis but was relaunched in 2018 with the help of entrepreneurs Guillame Laidet and Remi Chabrat. It has emerged from the gates with a core lineup composed of some of its most beloved watches from the 20th century, and from a vintage enthusiast’s vantage point, few brands are doing it like Nivada Grenchen. Every model and configuration oozes old-school cool and has been thoughtfully reinterpreted for today. The Windup Watch Shop is proud to welcome Nivada Grenchen and offer two of its most famous models: The OG Antarctic and the inimitable Chronomaster. At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically...
Time+Tide
Alpina's Art Deco offering goes for old-school charm with newfangled tech.The post The Alpina Heritage Carrée Automatic brings the ’30s to the masses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
D.C. takes a stroll around the booths of Windup Watch Fair, a haven for enthusiasts, by enthusiasts.The post 10 of D.C.’s favourites from Windup New York 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
During a visit to D.Dornblüth & Sohn in eastern Germany, Bhanu Chopra noticed a new matte black ceramic dial in the workshop and loved the look so much that he asked the independent watchmaker to replace the more standard silver dial on his Dornblüth 99.1 with the new black one. And he's very pleased with the result.
Quill & Pad
The Zenith Defy Skyline is loosely based around the historical Defy, which had a faceted bezel (arguably the very first octagonal steel sports watch in 1969), but the Skyline switches it up to a dodecagon (12-sided polygon) and a bolder case silhouette. And this is not the only reason Joshua Munchow is so enamored.
Time+Tide
We asked our audience whether the Black Bay on Becks' wrist or the Richard Mille on Rafa's would make you want to buy one? You had some thoughts.The post Do celebrity endorsements reduce the desirability of a watch? These were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hublot tests the theory of how many diamonds is too many with the new Classic Fusion High Jewellery. The jury is still out on the subject.The post Hublot’s new Classic Fusion High Jewellery is blinged-out to the nines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
With a water-resistant case and brawny proportions, Breguet's sportiest watch gets a haute horlogerie upgrade.The post Breguet’s Marine Tourbillon 5577 is a sporty tribute to the founder’s famous complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Held on the fourth Friday of October – in 2023, the 27th of October – Champagne Day was originally established in 2009 by Californian wine educator, Chris Oggenfus, and has taken off, with events around the world. You might be like Ken Gargett and have wondered why we need an official Champagne Day. Surely, every day is perfect for champagne?
Time+Tide
Seiko pays tribute to the brand's first-ever dual-time watch, going all the way back to 1968 for inspiration.The post The Seiko Prospex SPB411 stays true to its vintage inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward has been on a hot streak over the last year, with the introductions of the Bel Canto and the Twelve collection raising their profile with enthusiasts who veer toward the avant-garde and a style of sleek sports watch that’s in fashion at the moment. These watches have been met with a certain degree of, “Oh, I didn’t know Christopher Ward could do that…” by crops of skeptics who have since been won over. But the fact is, Christopher Ward has been upending expectations and redefining what the brand could be for years. For many in the collector community, a watch that really signified the brand branching out was the C1 Moonglow, which Zach Weiss reviewed here in 2019. A combination of an intricately layered dial design execution and liberal applications of lume in an inherently playful complication was a sign that Christopher Ward had even more ambitious ideas they were willing to play with, and now they’ve introduced a long awaited follow-up to the Moonglow, the C1 Moonphase. Christopher Ward describes this watch as their most ambitious moonphase to date, and it feels very much a part of this newer crop of Christopher Wards that really push the envelope in terms of design, reaching toward ideas that have typically been associated with haute horlogerie in the past. The C1 Moonphase features an aventurine dial, a material often associated with the moonphase complication because of its resemblance to the night sky. Aventurine is essentially glass tha...
Worn & Wound
The Lightness Wars continue today with the release of the new Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey, a ceramic dive watch with a GMT complication that isn’t just another ceramic sports watch. The new reference is filled with technological advancements on the materials and watchmaking fronts that Omega claims give it an improved strength to weight ratio compared to prior watches made from similar materials. Omega’s first big innovation here is the use of silicon nitride ceramic for the case, a lighter ceramic compound that is also very robust. Omega claims it is two times lighter than the Zircon ceramic used throughout the rest of their catalog, and according to their spec sheet the watch weighs in at 107 grams. The color of the case is a cool grey, and seems clearly intended to evoke the tactical lightweight feel of titanium. The other (and perhaps more significant) feature of the new Seamaster is that the dial and movement are both made from titanium, which goes a long way to reducing the total weight of the watch. The movement inside is the Master Chronometer Calibre 8906, which of course has been given the full METAS treatment. All that titanium on the inside and fancy ceramic on the outside will hopefully lead to featherweight wearing experience, because this watch is big by any standard. The case measures 45.5mm in diameter and 17.4mm tall. The lug to lug measurement is 51.5mm, which seems almost reasonable given the hefty diameter. It’s a Planet Ocean, so water re...
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Worn & Wound
It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
My watch collecting journey started when I was very young. Something inexplicable attracted me to these collectible wrist companions, and I can safely say I’ve barely gone a day in my life without wearing one. While all of these watches have been inherently disparate, one common theme runs through my collecting journey – pretty much … ContinuedThe post A collector’s first foray into vintage, and why you should consider it too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Forget teaming up with Swatch: Zach speculates what would happen if Breguet took a leaf out of Omega's book.The post WHAT IF… Breguet were also able to use the co-axial escapement? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic. Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...
SJX Watches
Today, the Association Monègasque les Myopathies (AMM) has decided to postpone what would have been the 10th instalment of Only Watch to 2024. Following questions on social media over the past couple of weeks, the foundation behind the charity auction has just released a statement outlining plans to push the event to next year, to allow it to take place in “in harmony with the community”. This news is coming despite a strong and public statement of support by François-Paul Journe declaring his “total confidence”, but also shortly after Audemars Piguet withdrew from the auction without any public statement as to why. The statement of support from François-Paul Journe The postponement is a regrettable move given the value of the initiative for medical research, but clearly one that founder Luc Pettavino and his team feel is necessary with just under two weeks until the auction was due to take place. Hopefully this delay will give its organisers time to quell the doubters on social media in recent days. With no set date yet announced, it is clear that this is a still a fluid situation and so we may see this auction take place early in the year, rather than during the fall as is tradition. However, it seems that those behind Only Watch take the concerns of the community seriously enough to ensure there is enough time to answer them all. We will be keeping you up to date as this story develops and more announcements are made. For the full statement from Only Watch, v...
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Worn & Wound
Don’t look now, but it appears that one of the great names of early 2000s independent watchmaking is back with their feet under them, fully invested in making interesting and beautiful watches. Speake Marin, founded by Peter Speake-Marin in 2002, was one of those gateway brands for many collectors coming of age at around the time the brand got its start, thanks in no small part to the founder being one of the most well liked and enthusiastic spokespeople not only for their own brand, but for indie watchmaking in general, of that era. Speake Marin (the brand) has had some ups and downs since the departure of its founder in 2017, but recent efforts like the Dual Time (in a host of festive colors) and the Ripples (their oddly named but quite striking entry in the integrated bracelet sports watch genre) have garnered more attention than the brand has seen in quite some time. Their most recent release, the Openworked Sandblasted Ti. The One & Two Openworked line has become a signature in the larger Speake Marin catalog, consisting of, well, evocatively openworked dials that show off some seriously high level manufacturing. They also do a great job of calling attention to the intricately finished movements and the unusual geometry and layout of Speake Marin watches, which is the underlying factor in what makes this watch so striking. The running seconds between 1:00 and 2:00 is, of course, deeply unusual, as is the visible barrel from the dial side with an engraving of the bra...
Worn & Wound
Fears continues to expand their classic Brunswick collection with the release of two new references: one of which brings their beautiful copper salmon dial to the 40mm case, and another called Aurora, which subverts expectations around mother of pearl dials. The new watches follow the brand’s subtle yet distinctive design language, feeling familiar yet new at the same time. Mother of pearl likely elicits a very specific reaction, but Fears looks to change that with the new Aurora, placing it within more neutral territory, accessible to both masculine and feminine sensibilities. While I’m not sure that this will become a trend, this isn’t the first time we’ve seen this material used in unexpected ways. Oris has found creative ways to bring this treatment to their Aquis, and even Formex has used it in their Essence 39. In both instances, the mother of pearl element is given an accent color, and it’s the same case with this new Brunswick from Fears. There are blue tones at work on multiple levels of the dial, creating a slight deviation between the outer and inner portions. Mother of pearl is a dynamic material that shifts in appearance quite easily, from any angle, and in any light. It’s the perfect expression of a similar phenomenon, the aurora (borealis in the north, australis in the south), an ever changing interaction between the solar wind and the earth’s magnetosphere. Each brings a quality that’s difficult to capture in a moment, or describe in words...
Time+Tide
When is a Pandial not a Pandial? When it's fully black, of course.The post The Brellum Pandial LE.5 DD DLC Full Black Chronometer is a stealthy take on their popular chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Just in time for the Windup Watch Fair, Serica has announced their latest release, an update to the original field watch that brought them to the attention of so many collectors just a few short years ago. The new 6190 Field Chronometer gives away a key update in the very name of the watch (bringing it up to spec with the rest of the collection), but there are a host of other refinements that speak to the continued improvements Serica have made with each release. We’ve seen a number of brands putting contemporary spins on the classic field watch recently, and the new release from Serica serves almost as a counterpoint. An example of a more traditional field watch, but seen through a modern lens. The case of the new 6190 Field Chronometer has been overhauled with slightly more complex geometry and a thinner profile that should please owners. The case height is now just 10.4mm, and Serica has maintained the impressive 200 meter water resistance rating even with the more slender dimensions. The diameter is just under 38mm, and the lug to lug span is 46.5mm, which equates to a watch that should wear much like the vintage watches that inspired it. The flat, brushed bezel is also now slightly wider, and the twisted lugs have a new polished chamfer along their outer edge. In addition to the case updates, Serica is offering the 6190 Field Chronometer in three new dial variants. The Denali is Serica’s first fully lumed 3-6-9 dial, with hour markers that have been moved inwa...
Worn & Wound
If you’re a fan of IWC pilot watches, you’ve no doubt participated in one of this cohort’s favorite activities, which is armchair quarterbacking the specifics of each release. We’ve gotten to a point where there are so many case sizes, complications, and case materials in the collection that the moment a new watch is announced, there’s a cry on the internet for that exact thing but tweaked, somehow, to more closely resemble another watch the brand makes. This is especially true with IWC’s ceramic cased pilot watches, which tend to be rather large and drive more than their share of “If only it was __mm” comments on Instagram. Earlier this year, in the midst of Ingy-fever, IWC quietly released a very nice 41mm chronograph in blue ceramic. It got some of us thinking: will more ceramic color options come to this Goldilocks sized case that everyone (myself very much included) seems to love? The answer, of course, is yes. This week, IWC revealed a watch that many collectors have been hoping for for quite some time, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. The brown “Mojave” case is meant to look like desert sand, and has been a favorite when executed as a perpetual calendar and Big Pilot. It was also, first, a chronograph, which made its debut back in 2019 in the same 44.5mm case later occupied by the Tahoe and Woodland versions of the chrono. It’s certainly the brand’s most unique ceramic colorway, and I have a feeling the news of this...
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