WristBuzz
Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian: Stone Dial, Same Soul
The revived Gérald Genta marque heads to Geneva Watch Days 2026 with a warm, golden twist on last year's striking Black Onyx minute repeater
Results for Day-Date
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Related pages
Wiki · Guide
President Bracelet
Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
Wiki · Guide
Stella Dial Rolex
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Reference · Guide
All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Rolex Day-Date 40 Rolex
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 21 mm, Cal. 3255
WristBuzz
Monochrome
Introducing - Czapek Inaugurates its Quai des Bergues 27 Boutique with Special Editions of the Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme Complicité
Coinciding with Geneva Watch Days, Czapek & Cie opens a new flagship boutique at Quai des Bergues 27, a symbolic address for the brand where, in 1839, François Czapek and Polish émigré Antoni Patek laid the foundations of Patek, Czapek & Cie. To mark the occasion, Czapek releases two special editions: a Quai des Bergues […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gallet Multichron Pilot
What We Know Today, amongst a slate of other launches and re-releases, Gallet — now a part of the Breitling "House of Brands" — lifted the curtain on the Gallet Multichron Pilot. The new watch takes the recipe of the original 1969 Multichron Pilot and updates it, and the result is a watch that is recognizable but also, arguably, the most contemporary model in the very fresh Gallet lineup. The new watch does borrow heavily from its namesake, and seeing the two watches next to each other highlights the similarities. The new Multichron Pilot is still a tri-compax chronograph, with a bi-directional twelve-hour bezel, pump pushers, stick hands, and cut-off arrow-shaped markers. By way of comparison, a vintage Gallet Multichron Pilot. Image, courtesy Analog Shift. But there are definite differences too, many of which are concessions to modern taste. For one thing, those cut-off arrow-shaped indices are now lumed instead of polished, but there's also a date — visible through an aperture at 6 o'clock — and while the telemeter remains on the new watch, the tachymeter (which appeared as a second scale on vintage examples) is omitted. The watch is also bigger than vintage Multichrons. The new watch has been upsized from 38 to 42mm, is 11.3mm thick, and measures 45.59mm lug-to-lug. At that size, the new Multichron Pilot is the largest watch in the new Gallet catalog but is still quite reasonable and a far cry from some of the oversized watches that still seem to populate Bre...
SJX Watches
Golden Obsidian for Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater
One of the most striking watches to debut at Geneva Watch Days is a new variant of Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater featuring a dial made of Golden Obsidian. In variation from last year’s debut, it’s forgone the glossy black onyx dial in favour of naturally formed volcanic glass. Initial thoughts Beyond the dial the only change is the strap, still with its signature centre-lug though now in a brown calfskin which nicely dresses down the overall package. It’s a perfect example of the brand’s ethos as they expand the collection: methodical, deliberate and measured. Small changes that stack up and give buyers more choice, and the addition of the Golden Obsidian alongside the Onyx shows how one small change can take a watch from classical and serious to relaxed and charming — having both options in the lineup should help satisfy still-healthy demand for stone dials perfectly compliment each other and goes far to round out a healthily expanding lineup for Gérald Genta. Obsidian dial Golden obsidian is a variant of the jet-black volcanic obsidian you’re likely familiar with. It forms naturally when lava cools rapidly and traps microscopic pockets of iron, air and gas bubbles forming organic striations and graining through the glass. These imperfections give golden obsidian its warmth and shimmer, changing dramatically as light hits it from different angles. What it does share with stone is its unique formation, so no two Golden Obsidian dials will be alike. Like wi...
Monochrome
Introducing - Akhor Brings Rare Stones on its AK-10 Stromatolite and AK-10 Maw Sit Sit
Akhor, an independent Swiss watch brand spearheaded by Anissa Bader, made its debut one year ago at Geneva Watch Days. Unlike many newcomers to the scene, Akhor benefits from Bader’s ties to Clamax, a watch component and micromechanics manufacturer based in Geneva. The inaugural watch was the poetic Le Temps en Equilibre, based on a […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Bulgari Titanio, The Titanium Evolution of the Aluminium Collection
Titanium is the common thread running through Bulgari’s Geneva Watch Days 2026 releases. Alongside the more experimental Octo Finissimo models, the brand also brings the material to one of its most recognisable everyday collections. The new Bulgari Titanio evolves the familiar Aluminium series with cases made from grade 5 titanium, while retaining the collection’s characteristic […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
The Gérald Genta brand was officially revived as an independent stand-alone marque by Louis Vuitton’s elite watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), in 2023. With a focus on high-end complications in limited quantities, the spirit of legendary designer Gérald Genta (1931-2011) lives on. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta releases a second iteration […]
SJX Watches
Breitling Reissues Miles Davis’ Navitimer
To commemorate Miles Davis’ many decades as a Navitimer man, Breitling has introduced the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, based on the ref. 806 Mk5 favoured by the pioneering jazz musician. Limited to 500 pieces in steel — plus 50 more that are part of a three-watch set with counterparts in 18k yellow gold and platinum — the watch is available on an optional Air Racer bracelet, which makes a triumphant return. Initial thoughts Breitling has positioned this release as a commemorative watch for a singular musician, but it will likely appeal beyond Miles Davis fans. The design is tasteful without any overt references to Davis, with the only specific reference being the subtle case back engraving. The Miles Davis edition follows a formula established by Breitling’s very popular Navitimer ref. 806 reissue and the subsequent Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, and should prove tempting to collectors who missed out on those editions or who simply objected to the Cosmonaute’s 24-hour format. The return of the Air Racer bracelet on this edition is a surprise, since Miles Davis usually chose to accessorise his Navitimer with a black leather bund strap. Despite that incongruence, the Air Racer is period-correct and has been very nicely executed and updated. As a design it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but I commend Breitling for experimenting with avant-garde bracelet designs like this, much like Zenith has done with the El Primero’s vintage-inspired ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39
What We Know Unveiling four new calibers in just 12 months, Girard-Perregaux has been rather busy lately. The La Chaux-de-Fonds-based marque celebrated a half-century of its Laureato model last year, with the introduction of the Laureato Fifty, including two-tone and Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon models. GP followed that up in 2026 with the Laureato Fifty becoming a permanent part of the model line and the introduction of 39 millimeter and 36mm models, showcasing the historic integrated bracelet watch design first introduced in 1975, as well as the signature bridges and grand feu enamel and precious metals dials at the heart of the brand's savoir-faire. Today, GP is introducing yet another Laureato, the Fifty Tourbillon micro-rotor in 39mm, aiming to bring together key design and mechanical elements defining Girard-Perregaux over its 235-year history. The Fifty Tourbillon is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 39mm in diameter and a svelte 10mm thick, with a matching integrated bracelet in the same metal offering 4mm of micro-adjust capability. Available in two Clous de Paris motif dial versions, a blue grand-feu enamel, or 18 karat rose gold, the watch features and celebrates classic Laureato and GP elements. The signature is the 'lyre-shaped' tourbillon at 6 o'clock supported by white gold, arrow-shaped bridges that draw on the brand's historic three-bridge design first produced by Constant Girard back in 1867. The relatively restrained dial features lumed...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis
What We Know In honor of the centennial of legendary musician Miles Davis' birth, Breitling has just announced a limited edition collection at Geneva Watch Days. I say collection because it's more than just one watch, if you want it to be. At the core, Breitling has launched a 500-piece limited-edition model, the steel Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, which is inspired by the ref. 806 Mk 5 Navitimer that was worn by the famous jazz musician. If a single steel option isn't enough for you Davis heads out there, Breitling is also producing 50 three-piece sets that offer a trio of executions of the watch, spanning steel, yellow gold, and even platinum with a blue dial. We can start with the core model, reference AB09501A1B1X1 or AB09501A1B1A1, depending on whether you want a leather strap or the bracelet (you want the bracelet). Measuring 41mm wide (the same as the reference worn by Davis), 13mm thick, and 47.1 mm lug-to-lug, the Navitimer Miles Davis uses a Breitling B09 hand-wound movement that is COSC-certified, ticks at 4 Hz, and employs both a column wheel and a vertical clutch. Water resistance is 30 meters, and this special edition sports both cream-colored lume and Breitling's (very cool) Twin Jet logo. And then there is the bracelet, a modern interpretation of the Air Racer bracelet that uses a cuff design with large holes. For this execution, Breitling has added hinged links near the clasp to help with comfort. But that's not all; aside from a gorgeous...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition
What We Know Gerald Charles, known for their Maestro cases, continues to evolve that idea at this year's Geneva Watch Days, but this is the first time they've offered something where every piece is genuinely unique. It's based on a Gérald Genta design from 2007 called the Sarawak, a diamond-and-ruby integrated-bracelet watch created for the Royal family of Sarawak—unknown to the public until 2024—and the direct ancestor of the Masterlink. It's impressive to see the brand continue to iterate on Genta's own designs, decades on. The case looks familiar—it's a classic Maestro, coming in as a square at 38mm x 38mm. The svelte dimensions continue inside: a profile just 7.99mm thin, aided by the 2.67mm movement. There are three colorways here—Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The dial is clearly the focal point here, bringing a new element to the Masterlink lineup. Each dial is individually hand-hammered by an artisan at Gerald Charles's atelier in Geneva. It's made of maillechort—also known as German silver or nickel silver, a copper-nickel-zinc alloy — and is typically used for movement bridges and plates rather than dials. It wasn't chosen because it's easy to work with—quite the opposite: it requires longer production times, wears tools faster, and results in a higher rejection rate. Since each dial is hammered by hand, no two are identical, and there are no applied indexes here, leaving the hundreds of small facets in full view. Inside is the ultra-th...
WristBuzz
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport: El Primero Without the Chronograph
Zenith pulls the stopwatch function from its most recognisable sports case and the result is more interesting than you'd expect
WristBuzz
Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far
From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.
Fratello
A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport
In 2021, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport as its modern sports chronograph. The new series was widely discussed immediately after its release, and despite (or perhaps due to) its hotly debated Rolex Daytona-like aesthetic, it became a massive commercial success for the Le Locle-based brand. Over time, Zenith introduced several new versions that widened the […] Visit A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Social Club Edition II
What We Know As part of the brand's varied releases for Geneva Watch Days, Oris has announced the Social Club Edition II, a special creation sold exclusively online in partnership with the Oris Social Club. The group spans some 62 chapters all over the world, and the latest offering to the acolytes is a handsome expression of the Aquis Relief that incorporates a green nylon NATO-style strap. Measuring in at 43.5mm, the Social Club Edition II builds upon the standard Aquis Relief by complementing the steel bezel design with a frosted silver finish for the dial. Look a bit closer, and you'll see that there is an easter egg for the date, too, as the first-of-the-month position will feature an image of Oris' mascot, the Oris Bear. Flip the watch over, and you'll find a custom caseback showing the Oris factory in Holstein and "OSC | INT" to mark the club's international membership. The full specs are provided below, but the Oris Social Club Edition II is 13.1mm thick and 51mm lug to lug with 300 meters of water resistance protecting the Oris 733 movement within. The 733 is based on the Sellita SW 200-1 and is an automatic, Swiss-made movement that ticks at 4 Hz and offers a date, which, for this model, is at 6 o'clock. Perhaps most interesting – or perhaps I just like NATO straps – Oris has elected to fit lug adapters to the Aquis' proprietary lugs to enable the use of a green NATO strap. The Oris Social Club Edition II is not limited and will be available in Septembe...
Fratello
The Way Gérald Genta Intended: The Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
The Gérald Genta brand is putting its legendary founder’s philosophy at the top of its priorities. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta releases a new Golden Obsidian version of the Geneva Minute Repeater. This 40mm 3N yellow gold novelty comes after the 2025 Geneva Minute Repeater Black Onyx. It also houses the manually wound […] Visit The Way Gérald Genta Intended: The Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
What We Know Today, at Geneva Watch Days, Gérald Genta has announced the latest version of its Geneva Minute Repeater. This new version of the watch, which was originally released around this time last year, swaps the black Onyx dial of that release for a novel dial in Golden Obsidian. Other details are largely unchanged, continuing the trend of the revived Gérald Genta expanding its lineup with caution and deliberation. As with last year's Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater, the Golden Obsidian uses the 40mm-wide, 9.6mm-thick yellow-gold version of the cushion-shaped Geneva case (as opposed to the 38mm version introduced earlier this year in the time-only models, which you can read about here). The protruding single-lug design, found on a handful of Genta watches from the later stages of his career (including the Credor Locomotive), means this watch wears pretty close to 40mm lug-to-lug. Inside the Geneva Minute Repeater is the in-house GG-002 movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps. It's a 3 Hz movement with 80 hours of power reserve and an impressively loud minute repeater. It's a nice bit of watchmaking, and — as Mark intimated when he went hands-on with the Onyx-dialed version of this watch last year — it fits nicely into the lineage of Genta-designed minute repeaters. The big talking point with this year's Geneva Minute Repeater is the Golden Obsidian dial. Golden Obsidian — a material I had not encountered before this watch — is a volcanic glass that...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bulgari's Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A "Dazzle" Camo Release
What We Know While I hate to repeat myself, I will yet again call something "the most surprising collaboration." I mean, it feels warranted, especially when I say that not only have the minds at Bulgari handed over the reins to collaborate with an independent watchmaker for the first time ever, but they've done so with a maximalist mind that contrasts with Bulgari's measured take on design. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual x Vianney Halter. What a world. And not only that, but Bulgari allowed Halter to take an Octo Finissimo movement and work with the brand to create modules to complement the Jules Vernian steampunk design. The new movement, the BVF 200, is based on the BVL 138 and has an automatic microrotor winding system, but with modules to add a dual-time/GMT function, Day/Night indicator, and a large, rotating date. At the top right, you have the main time zone. Bottom left has another window for the GMT time (ostensibly set forward and backward with pushers on the left-hand case side, like a Patek travel time watch), a day/night indicator at the bottom right (capped by Vianney Halter's name), and a giant aperture with a date disc, highlighting the date with a small fork. All of these functions are in porthole-style apertures like those found on Halter's Antiqua. The movement runs at 3Hz and has a 60-hour power reserve. From the side, the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter is noticeably thicker than previous models. That's not hard to do, since the Chronograph ...
Deployant
Live from WWG26: Xhevdep Rexhepi Minute Inerte Hands-on Impressions
Walking to attend some cocktails at the end of Day 0, I passed by Xhevdep Rexhepi's atelier. And Xhevdep showed me his amazing Minute Inerte.
Deployant
Live from GWD26: Xhevdep Rexhepi Minute Inerte Hands-on Impressions
Walking to attend some cocktails at the end of Day 0, I passed by Xhevdep Rexhepi's atelier. And Xhevdep showed me his amazing Minute Inerte.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces the new Biscay Dive Watch Collection
Christopher Ward has recently expanded their Trident family with the C60 Trident Biscay, set to replace the C65 Aquitaine. The UK-based watchmaker has pulled inspiration from two reference points: the skin divers of the 1960’s and the collection’s namesake, the Bay of Biscay – which, for anyone who struggles with geography like moi, is the body of water nestled between the northern coast of Spain and the western coast of France and not Biscayne Bay, which is a lagoon in Florida. The end result is the C60 Trident Biscay Automatic, C60 Trident Biscay GMT, and C60 Trident Biscay Bronze. The first in the collection is the C60 Trident Biscay Automatic, available in 39mm and 42mm stainless steel cases. It uses Christopher Ward’s Light-catcher case with a slim 11mm profile and box sapphire crystal. This particular model also includes a granular dial, minimal text, and applied Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. The Automatic is available in black, sand/black, and black/red and has a price tag starting at $1,870. Next is the GMT, which also comes in 39mm and 42mm sizes. Here, Christopher Ward has added a fourth hand for tracking another time zone and a bi-directional aluminum bezel in two-tone color combinations. The framed date window replaces the 6 o’clock numeral, while the surface-hardened bezel has a hardness level of 250HV, which Christopher Ward says is 67% harder than untreated aluminum. The GMT is available in black/red and sand/blue, and is priced f...
Worn & Wound
Tudor’s 100th Anniversary Celebration Continues with the Return of the North Flag
We knew some big moments would come as Tudor notches its impressive 100th anniversary as a brand this year, and this is one of them: the revival of the North Flag. The aptly named collection has come to serve as the north star for Tudor’s modern offerings and set the tone for the brand in the past decade. When the model first debuted in 2015, it marked the first Tudor watch to house an in-house movement coupled with an exhibition caseback to show it off. The COSC-certified Caliber MT5621 that powered the original was just the jumping off point for Tudor to upgrade models across its catalog with manufacture movements and chronometer certification. Now, in the newly revived North Flag line, we get even greater attention on technical capabilities with METAS certification, giving it Master Chronometer status, as well as the addition of a GMT complication.Despite the advancements we’ve seen throughout the North Flag collection and in the newest edition today, the model remains deeply rooted in Tudor’s history and makes for a fitting addition to its 100th anniversary offerings. The Ranger II from 1973 has served as the historic touchpoint for the collection since its inception. There are several key design codes that create a throughline from the Ranger II to the original North Flag and now the latest edition. These include the black dial with large Arabic numeral hour markers, the arrow-shaped 24-hour and hours hands coupled with an angular seconds hand and a baton-shaped...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Czapek's New Quai des Bergues And Place Vendôme Complicité
What We Know Only seven years ago, Czapek, a brand over 180 years old, opened its first modern boutique in Geneva, right next to the brand's original workshop from 1839. Soon after, it opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris. Its first collection, called "Quai des Bergues," celebrated the first boutique; another collection celebrated that boutique in France. Now, the brand has reopened its Geneva boutique with a new look and is celebrating with a new watch from each collection. The newest Quai des Bergues "Midnight in Geneva" uses the brand's proprietary SXH1 hand-wound movement, cased in a mid-sized 40.5mm by 11.9mm stainless steel case with sandblasted, hollowed-out lugs. The watch is an impressive bit of watchmaking in a really elegant form. The watch has a power reserve indicator, weekday indicator, and subsidiary seconds, but the power reserve is a massive 7 days. The elegance comes in part from a beautiful dark blue aventurine dial with silver powder-coated steel Fleur-de-Lys hands, printed elongated Roman numerals, and a chemin de fer outer track. The watch, with a 50-meter water resistance, is limited to 18 pieces and retails for $28,600. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue is a new treatment for the brand's open-worked double-escapement watch created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer. While the previous watch was technically impressive but visually reserved, the Place Vendôme Complicité puts complexity at the forefront. The watch fe...
SJX Watches
The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger
A decade after it first debuted, Tudor has revived the Northflag. Originally a 1970s-inspired sports watch to showcase Tudor’s first-ever in-house movement, the Northflag has been upgraded inside and out. The rebooted Northflag gains a GMT function plus refinements all round, ranging from superior detailing on the case to lume blocks on the dial. And the movement is now a Master Chronometer, while the price stays true to Tudor’s value-oriented focus at just over US$5,500. Initial thoughts The original North Flag was a bit quirky with its power reserve indicator, and also probably ahead of its time; a Tudor with an in-house movement seemed like an odd concept back then. I liked it then, but the North Flag wasn’t a commercial success, so it is surprising that Tudor has revived the model. But the new Northflag is an immediately appealing watch, reflecting Tudor’s advancements in design, manufacturing, and branding. In fact, the Northflag is one of the most interesting watches in the current Tudor catalogue, alongside the equally recent Monarch. Although practically everything Tudor makes is well priced and an easy recommendation, almost all of Tudor’s best watches are variations of the Oyster case and Black Bay diver. The Northflag, on the other hand, is something else entirely. The angular, 1970s-style case is different, as is the dial. But all the elements are harmonious, and the design works. This is one of my strongest recommendations in the Tudor line-up today,...
SJX Watches
Alto Returns with the Art 02
Design-forward independent watchmaker Alto has kicked off Geneva Watch Days with its second model, the Art 02. While the most obvious difference is the addition of a matching bracelet, the entire watch has been refined and updated with a smaller case and an upgraded movement. Initial thoughts A dominant trend in independent watchmaking for the past several years has been the veneration of finishing. This focus has given rise to a growing number of overtly traditional time-only watches built and finished to a high standard. Alto belongs a class of design-led independents that promotes a different approach, one focused on how shapes and textures contribute to the wearing experience. This philosophy comes into sharper focus with the brand’s sophomore effort, the Art 02. While visually similar to its predecessor — enough that they would be hard to tell apart by an untrained eye — the Art 02 has been significantly refined and upgraded in several respects. First is the case, which is slightly thicker but much smaller in length and width, and a new proprietary calibre designed specifically for the Art 02. Then there’s the matching titanium bracelet, which is brushed and faceted to create a dazzling display of light and shadow. Surprisingly, the Art 02 is significantly less expensive than its predecessor. In fact, the retail price of €13,100 is just over half that of the Art 01 in “Monochrome Grey.” Considering the new calibre, proprietary bracelet, and similar bill ...
Monochrome
First Look - The New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon (Incl. Video)
Few brands are as intertwined with motorsports as TAG Heuer. Since the early days of the brand, then only known as Heuer, it has always had close ties with racing, predominantly thanks to its excellent mechanical stopwatches. The racing DNA resonates well within multiple collections, such as the iconic Carrera and Monaco. The Monza, however, […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition
What We Know This weekend, Formula 1 returns to Ferrari's home track (for the series, at least) of Monza, and with that return, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of the eponymous Monza Flyback Chronograph. The watch was originally released in 1976 to celebrate Ferrari's return to the top with the constructors' and drivers' Formula 1 championships, with its black-coated case setting the stage not only for the model's future but also for similar releases from Heuer (and later TAG Heuer). A Monza isn't a Monza unless it's black, so this new release fits the remit perfectly: a 42mm by 15.22mm case in forged carbon, with red accents on the dial. Often known as the Niki Lauda (after the driver who won the title in 1976), the original watch featured a lot of red (and was reissued over a decade ago), though the dial layout has changed significantly from the original. This time, that red has been swapped around, with accents on the minute-counting and chronograph hands, the combination pulsometer and tachymeter flange scale, and the flyback mark at 6 o'clock. The date is still included, moved to 9 o'clock (which in turn puts running seconds at 6 o'clock), but with an angled window. The indices are all printed, and the hands and hour markers use white Super-LumiNova. The watch is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber TH20-12 automatic movement, running at 4Hz. TAG Heuer didn't provide specifications here, but past versions of the Monza with this movement had an 80-hour power rese...
WristBuzz
IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team: Purple Is the New Black
IWC drops a bold purple-dialed Pilot chronograph timed to the Singapore Grand Prix, and it's one of the more striking F1 collabs we've seen from Schaffhausen in a while.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton 'Milano Blue' in Rose Gold
What We Know This morning, just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a new limited-edition take on its Tonda PF Skeleton. This new watch does something so many Parmigiani watches do so well, blending several existing elements to create something just a little bit new. In this instance, Parmigiani Fleurier has taken its Milano Blue skeletonized Tonda PF dial and movement—which had previously been available only in platinum—and fitted them to a rose gold Tonda PF case (and bracelet). The Tonda PF case is one of the key arguments in favor of modern Parmigiani Fleurier. At 40mm across and just 8.5mm thick, it's well-sized and thin without feeling slight. Still, for as good as the Tonda PF is, the star of the show here is the movement. The PF777 (which you can read a bit more about here) is an automatic winding caliber developed in-house by Parmigiani Fleurier. Unlike many movements that find their way into skeletonized watches, the PF777 was purpose-built and designed from first principles with skeletonization in mind. The result of this — and of Parmigiani's willingness to not take skeletonization to the absolute extreme, but rather to implement the concept with some modicum of consideration — is a movement that balances aesthetic concerns with practical ones and is all the better for it. A blend of polished, satin-finished, and sandblasted surfaces keeps the PF777 feeling contemporary, and the ground-up design means the watch avoids many of th...
SJX Watches
Insight: The Keyless Works
Having previously examined concepts related to energy flow inside watch movements, from automatic winding to barrel capacity and gear tooth profiles, we now turn and look at how energy enters the movement through the keyless works. For the majority of watches, the crown is the sole component through which the owner interacts with the movement, for both setting the indications and winding. While these operations have become a matter of routine, they wouldn’t be possible if not for the keyless works. This underrated mechanism — usually hidden — deserves a closer look. From key to crown We owe today’s user-friendly dual-purpose crown, which can be used for both winding and setting, to French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, whose last name is certainly resonant with all horology enthusiasts. A keen technician who had not found success in his homeland, Philippe was approached in 1845 by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish watch merchant from Geneva. Patek’s then-partnership with François Czapek was going sour and the merchant was looking for a new, technically oriented associate. Shortly thereafter, Philippe was appointed as technical director at Patek’s firm. This unexpected fast track was due to Philippe’s innovation: the keyless, stem-wound movement. Although his French peers weren’t taken with the invention, Patek recognised the potential of keyless timepieces and sought to capitalise on — and further develop — the concept. Later in 1851, Patek, Philipp...