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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.

INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Watch adds Feb 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire

The Longines Legend Diver collection, since its inception in 2007, has presented a strong example of heritage revivals done right. Longines, a trendsetter in this regard, has always done a great job of digging into their rich archives to take beloved designs of the brand and reinterpret them with fresh and flavourful notes that speak … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch Time+Tide
Seiko pocket watch Feb 8, 2022

Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch

This 1974 Seiko pocket watch ref 6602-9010, stands apart from all my other timepieces. Today the convenience of a hands-free wristwatch has seen pocket watches mostly relegated to collectors, Victorian enthusiasts, Steampunk fans or people who want engraved presentation items. Pocket watches are still available new today, from low-end pieces to mid-range Seiko (eg SWPQ002 and … ContinuedThe post Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A chicken-wristed man’s search for a watch strap with the perfect fit Time+Tide
Tissot field watch … ContinuedThe Dec 15, 2021

A chicken-wristed man’s search for a watch strap with the perfect fit

There’s a scene in the Alfred Hitchcock film, Rear Window, where the main character L.B. Jefferies (a gruff photojournalist played by James “Jimmy” Stewart) looks down at his watch to note the time – as he investigates what he suspects is the murder of his neighbour by her husband. It’s a small Tissot field watch … ContinuedThe post A chicken-wristed man’s search for a watch strap with the perfect fit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Snoopy inspired Crazy Hours Time+Tide
Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Dec 11, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Snoopy inspired Crazy Hours

“Yesterday I was a dog. Today I’m a dog. Tomorrow I’ll probably still be a dog. Sigh! There’s so little hope for advancement.” These words were uttered by Snoopy, the iconic but ultimately fictional dog who’s a product of cartoonist Charles Schulz’s wonderful imagination. But little did the wisest of wise canines know what would be … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Snoopy inspired Crazy Hours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Nov 4, 2021

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches

Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the  fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco Nov 1, 2021

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco

A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil: Celebrating Mexico, Art, And The Dearly Departed - Reprise Quill & Pad
De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Oct 31, 2021

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil: Celebrating Mexico, Art, And The Dearly Departed - Reprise

De Bethune's Dream Watch 5 is more a beautifully sculptured piece of jewelry than a wristwatch, and its organic shape looks fantastic from every angle. The latest Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil honors and celebrates Mexico's Day of the Dead with a colorful, exquisitely engraved case that is also a metallurgic wonder. Horological art doesn't get better than this!

Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown SJX Watches
Longines Legend Diver Watch Oct 15, 2021

Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown

Introduced in 2007 as Longines’ first remake of a vintage sports watch, the original Legend Diver was one of the earliest entries into the vintage-reissue segment. And it was a faithful recreation that managed to channel the look and feel of the vintage-original ref. 7042, though Longines subsequently added a date display to the model. In recent years, however, Longines begun to inject contemporary style into its remakes, including the Legend Diver, with last year’s 42 mm model in bronze with a striking, green fumé dial being a prime example. This year saw a continuation of the trend with a pair of new dials – in either blue or brown with a smoked finish – for the full-sized Legend Diver Watch in steel. Initial thoughts My first impression of the duo was simple: they are appealing in both design and colour. The design is clearly vintage; the remake stays true to the original. Its best feature is the inner rotating bezel adjusted via a second crown, which immediately sets it apart from typical dive watches that usually have a bulky external bezel. But important is the colour, which unlike the design it is a modern addition. Though fashionable today, gradient or dégradé dials are were actually a thing in the 1970s, though never found on the vintage original. The smoked dials lends the watch a youthful and contemporary feel. The blue is the most striking, though I personally prefer the warm and nostalgic brown dial that evokes a “tropical” dial. While t...

Interview: Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Watch Design Chief SJX Watches
Cartier s Watch Design Chief Oct 1, 2021

Interview: Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Watch Design Chief

Cartier has enjoyed industry-beating growth since current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took over in 2016, with demand for both its watches and jewellery rising at a steady clip. One of the individuals behind the success of Cartier’s watch division is Marie-Laure Cérède. Having started her career at Cartier, she spent a dozen years at Harry Winston, before returning to the French jeweller in October 2016 as the Deputy Creative Director of Watchmaking. And in May 2017 she was elevated to the top job in design, making her ultimately responsible for the aesthetic of Cartier’s watchmaking. One of the first redesigns during Ms Cerede’s leadership was the Santos, which has evolved from the Santos launched in 1978 (far left), to the Santos 100 of the 2000s (centre), and finally the present model Her tenure has been marked by a steady stream of hits, ranging from collector favourites like the Tank Cintree to the trendy Tank Must. In that time, Cartier has reimagined most of its trademark watch lines, including the Santos and more recently, the Pasha. I spoke with Ms Cérède earlier this year to uncover the secret behind her successful rejuvenation of Cartier’s diverse line-up. Also present during the interview was Anne Charrier, the public relations-strategy manager for jewellery, watches, and accessories. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Cartier has a strong collection this year, both for men and women. And for a few years now, you have had stro...

You Can’t Ask That: Developing the real estate of an Audemars Piguet watch Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet watch Sep 23, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: Developing the real estate of an Audemars Piguet watch

This is the fifth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Developing the real estate of an Audemars Piguet watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021: Historically Inspired With Vintage Appeal Quill & Pad
Breguet Type XX Only Watch Aug 15, 2021

Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021: Historically Inspired With Vintage Appeal

Breguet has a stronger legacy than nearly any other brand and is strongest in Joshua Munchow's opinion when it drifts more toward heritage than trends. A great example of this is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021, a historically inspired version that does away with the aspects Joshua isn't a fan of in the current Type XX/XXI collection. And its auction price will be fully donated for a great cause.

WATCHSPOTTING: The IWC watch that had a starring role in Gossip Girl Time+Tide
IWC watch Jul 23, 2021

WATCHSPOTTING: The IWC watch that had a starring role in Gossip Girl

Last year, as I was relegated to the confines of a New York City apartment for weeks on end, binge watching shows became the best way to pass time. In all those months, I found no show did a better job of this than the original Gossip Girl. Rich teenagers, crazy plots and ridiculous cliffhangers … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: The IWC watch that had a starring role in Gossip Girl appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K Time+Tide
Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K Jul 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K

When it comes to evaluating a new watch, many of us play the “what if” game. What if the watch had a blue dial? What if it had a grey bezel? The new Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K puts that idea into action with a new limited-edition design chosen by fans of the brand worldwide. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks Jul 11, 2021

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact

The evolution of an iconic design is interesting. How do designers keep something fresh, without losing the identity that made it an icon in the first place? Be it the iPhone, the Porsche 911 or the Nik Air Jordan sneaker, it’s a challenge that organisations around the world struggle with and this year IWC took … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Crushed by Antiques Roadshow - this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was… Time+Tide
Cartier pocket watch was not Jul 10, 2021

Crushed by Antiques Roadshow - this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was…

Antiques Roadshow is a source of a lot of fun for watch enthusiasts eagerly anticipating the appraisals of timepieces. Whether family heirlooms or watches bought while serving in the military, the people who bring their watches to be evaluated have their fingers crossed for high numbers – hoping they have hit the jackpot with their … ContinuedThe post Crushed by Antiques Roadshow – this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh Jul 8, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice

Last year, IWC focused on revamping their impressive Portugieser line. In 2021, it’s the turn of the IWC Pilot’s collection that’s expanded to offer greater choice than ever before with a veritable squadron of new pieces. Highlights include a new Big Pilot that’s downsized from the slightly intimidating 46mm to a more wearable 43mm option. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.