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Results for Antoine Norbert de Patek

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Antoine Norbert de Patek

Polish-born watchmaker who founded Patek Philippe in Geneva (1839; renamed 1851).
Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023

Amongst the special editions created for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo is the World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5531R-014. The ref. 5531R-014 is the more complicated of the two world time models that mark the event – the other is the ref. 5330G – and features a cloisonné enamel dial. The dial continues with the motif first found on the ref. 5531R-010 made for the Grand Exhibition 2019 that took place in Singapore. Its centre is cloisonné enamel depicting a stylised map of the Chuo ward in central Tokyo, including the expansive grounds of Imperial Palace on the upper left. Initial thoughts Unlike the other two Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 complications – Quad Comp ref. 5308P and World Time ref. 5330G – that are new references containing new calibres, the ref. 5531R is a variant of a regular-production model. So while it less interesting from that perspective, the ref. 5531R-014 is still an compelling watch. The cloisonné map is an unusual motif for a dial, and almost abstract at a distance, but interesting and appealing. The watch does have intrinsic appeal, however, it also does look similar to the ref. 5531R-010 made for the 2019 Grand Exhibition in Singapore. In fact, the two are probably indistinguishable from across a room. Doing something more distinctive, for instance another case metal and dial colour, would have made this more unique. A bird’s eye view of Tokyo The cloisonné enamel dial captures the Ch...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023

The flagship model in Patek Philippe’s special edition line-up for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, the Quadruple Complication Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5308P-010 is an entirely new reference that becomes one of the most complicated watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue. Described as a quadruple complication because it has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and a twin chronograph, the ref. 5308P is a direct evolution of the ref. 5208. Both are essentially alike, save for the addition of the split-seconds mechanism in the ref. 5308P. Initial thoughts Like all of Patek Philippe’s top-of-the-line grand comps, the ref. 5308P is an imposing and heavy watch that makes a statement on the wrist (unlike the relatively compact ref. 5330G World Time created for the same event). And with the “rose-gilt opaline” dial, this is also visually striking and definitely hard to miss. Though it might seem similar to the ref. 5208, with only an additional seconds hand to set them apart, the ref. 5308P incorporates some interesting technical tweaks, including a revised isolator mechanism for the split seconds. Still, like the ref. 5208, the ref. 5308P is a modular grand complication with the perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronographs made up of modules stacked up under the dial. This is arguably a less sophisticated solution then an integrated chronograph (a perpetual calendar is conventionally a module regardless). Four comps The ref. 5308P has a dial in “ro...

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Double the Miffy: De Rijke & Co. and Revolution Team Up for a Special Limited Edition Version of the Miffy Moonphase Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co Jun 6, 2023

Double the Miffy: De Rijke & Co. and Revolution Team Up for a Special Limited Edition Version of the Miffy Moonphase

The De Rijke & Co. “Miffy” watches have unexpectedly launched the Dutch brand to a level of acclaim over the last few years that would have been hard for most people to predict. That isn’t because the watches they make aren’t worthy (we’ve been following them closely since the excellent Amalfi 1S, reviewed here in the pre-Miffy days), but because the Miffy character is quintessentially Dutch, and not an internationally known and obvious subject for a character watch. And also because, well, who would have thought that the “elegant driver’s watch” format would lend itself so well to a character at all? There’s an obvious sense of whimsy here, a youthful playfulness combined with De Rijke’s eye for great design that just really works. And the latest Miffy watch is perhaps the most impressive yet: a limited edition run made in collaboration with Revolution, featuring a unique perspective on De Rijke’s Miffy moonphase execution.  The previous Miffy watches (which we wrote about here and here) were essentially opportunities for De Rijke to experiment with bold colors and work in an aesthetic defined by the illustrations of Miffy creator Dick Bruna. The moonphase disc captures Miffy riding a crescent moon, surrounded by stars, with luminescent material applied to the nighttime scene. It’s one of the largest moonphase indicators we know of in a wristwatch, with the width of the disc itself coming in at 20mm. The artwork takes advantage of the large size ...

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De Bethune DB28: How I Launched It, Why I Bought It, And Why It’s The Perfect ‘One Watch’ – Reprise Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB28 How I Launched Jun 1, 2023

De Bethune DB28: How I Launched It, Why I Bought It, And Why It’s The Perfect ‘One Watch’ – Reprise

De Bethune celebrated the tenth anniversary of its groundbreaking DB28 in 2020 and, as Ian Skellern's relationship with the model goes back the full decade, it seemed an appropriate time for him to share the story of how he came to launch the DB28, own a DB28, and what he thinks of the DB28 after wearing one regularly for 10 years.

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De Bethune Debuts the DB28xs Starry Seas, a Smaller Version of their Signature Design with a Beautiful Ocean Inspired Dial Worn & Wound
De Bethune Debuts May 29, 2023

De Bethune Debuts the DB28xs Starry Seas, a Smaller Version of their Signature Design with a Beautiful Ocean Inspired Dial

The De Bethune DB28 is an absolutely insane watch. As I found out for myself in Geneva earlier this year, the watch’s large proportions play tricks on you: it’s enormous to the eye, but incredibly light on the wrist thanks to the titanium case construction and airy design with those patented hollowed out, articulating lugs. Even though this watch is the ultimate example of “It actually wears a lot smaller…” I think it’s understandable that collectors would call for a version that’s actually smaller, and that’s what De Bethune has delivered with the new DB28xs Starry Seas. This is essentially a scaled down version of the DB28 that incorporates a fantastic and first of its kind dial that applies guilloche in an entirely new way.  The centerpiece here is certainly the dial, which is made from heat blued titanium, taking on the dramatic bright blue shade that has become a De Bethune hallmark of sorts. The decoration is what De Bethune refers to as “random guilloche,” and they say this is the first time this technique has been used in a watch dial design. The cumulative effect is a dial that looks like ocean waves in motion, and it’s been accented with small white gold “stars” to create the impression of the night sky being reflected off the surface of a body of water. It’s a natural extension of other “Starry” De Bethune references, which typically depict a night sky view. The case will be familiar to those who know the DB28 (the lucky few). It...

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De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory with the Stunning DB28xs Starry Seas Quill & Pad
De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory May 29, 2023

De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory with the Stunning DB28xs Starry Seas

De Bethune has a thing for stars, but the way that they present them in the DB28xs Starry Seas is something that we haven't seen before. As the name already hints, are the stars reflected in an ocean full of waves. To create this effect, De Bethune invented a random guilloché pattern, a world's first, representing the waves.

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De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces May 25, 2023

De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas

The latest version of De Bethune’s signature watch shrinks the case and ups the level of dial decoration. The DB28xs Starry Seas has a compact case of just 38.7 mm and an eye-catching dial finished a wave pattern and inlaid white gold stars in typical De Bethune style. Initial thoughts Originally a large watch with a case of 43 mm, the DB28 nonetheless became the brand’s trademark watch thanks to its distinctive styling and hinged lugs. So a more wearable version of the DB28 will certainly have is audience. In fact, the case of 38.7 mm is more than manageable, it is almost small by the standards of highly contemporary independent watchmaking.  With the reduced case, however, the DB28xs might have lost some of the presence that made the original DB28 interesting, although that will have to be judged in the metal. Besides the case, the other novel feature of the watch is the wave pattern on the dial that’s complemented by inlaid gold stars, which is meant to evoke the night sky reflected on water. The wave pattern is new for De Bethune, adding some originality to this variant of the DB28. While the dial is beautiful – De Bethune’s blued titanium dials usually are – and the case remains appealing even on a smaller scale, I would have hoped that the brand did something more inventive, rather than create variants of existing designs and movements.    Apart from the dial and case, the DB28xs is largely identical to its larger siblings, including utilising the same...

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Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse May 18, 2023

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical – Reprise

The Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse appears magical thanks to the apparent lack of any connection to the case while putting most of the mechanics on full display. It may be a time-only watch with no complications or tourbillons, but it is a most impressive accomplishment. Joshua Munchow explains the magic trick.

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Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s Grandmaster Chime Apr 9, 2023

Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers

Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch is updated with a subtle brown and gold colour scheme, and an outlandish gem-set variant The reversible case houses 20 complications, including two patented exclusives – a date repeater and alarm that sounds the programmed time 118 emeralds and 291 diamonds, both baguette-cut, total nearly 30 carats of gems on … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R Time+Tide
Patek Philippe takes design risks Mar 30, 2023

Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R

The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava brings a vibrant purple dial into their ladies’ Calatrava catalogue The dial is made up of over 50 layers of lacquer on an embossed dial The Calibre 240 is visible from the sapphire display caseback, and is beautifully finished Patek Philippe have been taking design risks for decades, but there’s … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Bvlgari’s Antoine Pin presents brand new Octo Roma timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Bvlgari s Antoine Pin presents Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Bvlgari’s Antoine Pin presents brand new Octo Roma timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2023

After a decade of consecutive world records with the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari now shines the spotlight on the Bvlgari Octo Roma, a vaunted timepiece whose history is deeply intertwined with that of Bvlgari’s. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Antoine Pin, Managing Director of Bvlgari’s watch division, expounded on the Bvlgari Octo Roma’s significance and […]

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De Bethune Introduces the DB Eight SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Mar 29, 2023

De Bethune Introduces the DB Eight

While De Bethune is best known for its avant-garde designs and signature spring-loaded floating lugs, the brand’s early years were characterised by more traditional styling. Fresh off the press, the DB Eight calls to mind the brand’s early products, most notably the DB1 mono-pusher chronograph from 2002, but adds many of the technical refinements that De Bethune has become known for.  Dressed in a polished titanium case and guilloché dial, the DB Eight fills a hole in the brand’s current line-up by offering collectors a simple, manually wound mono-pusher chronograph, albeit one that lacks the technical and decorative refinement collectors expect at this price point. Thanks to its wide but slim case and narrow bezel, the DB Eight will likely wear larger than its 42.4 mm diameter would suggest Initial thoughts I’m probably in the minority when it comes to my preference for De Bethune’s more classically styled models like the original DB1. Given this preference, I naturally I gravitated towards the new DB Eight more than I have to some of the brand’s other recent offerings like the DB28XP. But while I like the design of the DB Eight, the substance does not meet my expectations for the brand. Let’s start with the good news. De Bethune has addressed the cross-eyed look of the DB1 with a new movement that offers an instantaneous 60-minute counter for the elapsed time at six o’clock. This creates a balanced look that at first glance might even pass for a time-...

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The Patek Philippe 5316P Grand Complications goes for a contemporary grail vibe Time+Tide
Patek Philippe 5316P Grand Complications goes Mar 29, 2023

The Patek Philippe 5316P Grand Complications goes for a contemporary grail vibe

Patek Philippe renders the five grail-worthy complications in a case combining classical and contemporary The sapphire dial subtly shows off the inner workings of the manually wound movement Unlike many pieces, the 5316 hides the tourbillon from the dial, only displaying it via an interchangeable sapphire or solid caseback It’s always a special occasion when … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe 5316P Grand Complications goes for a contemporary grail vibe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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New: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R Deployant
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Mar 28, 2023

New: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R

Patek Philippe presents the new Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R, featuring the manufacture’s patented annual calendar mechanism from 1996. Press Release details with commentary in italics. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R is a regular production timepiece, with a retail price of USD61,510. Commentary PatekRead More

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The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6 Revolution
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Feb 24, 2023

The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6

In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]

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De Rijke Returns to Miffy Collaboration One Year Later with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
De Rijke Returns Jan 16, 2023

De Rijke Returns to Miffy Collaboration One Year Later with New Dial Colors

One year ago we showed you the delightful De Rijke Miffy Moonphase, a playful take on De Rijke’s distinctive design language honoring the iconic Dutch cartoon character created by Dick Bruna, Miffy. We remarked then about the watch’s universal appeal beyond the character thanks to the exquisite execution of the character etched into a brass plate alongside the moonphase display. This year, De Rijke returns to the concept with three new dial colors that once again breathe new life into Bruna’s uniquely Dutch creation.  The Miffy character has been incorporated into the design of the moonphase disc rotating underneath the dial, which is visible through an oversized aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. The character, which is a bunny, appears within the moon itself, with a slew of stars trailing. The entire design has been laser etched out of brass, polished and black rhodium plated. The recesses are then filled with different colors of lume, creating not only a vibrant illustration, but also an impressive sight in the dark. We’ve talked about our feelings on cartoon characters within the confines of watches before in this editorial, and sadly I neglected to mention the original De Rijke x Miffy as an example that works. According to Laurens de Rijke, the brand’s founder, it’s a reminder that we needn’t always take ourselves too seriously, explaining: “ For me though, it makes a lot of sense, the world of watches is one that is often very serious...

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