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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 21 mm, Cal. 3255
Monochrome
The Saxonia Annual Calendar is a relatively young but important member of A. Lange & Söhne’s repertoire. Launched in 2010 as an “everyday” complication, the annual calendar offers a more practical, slightly less complex alternative to the brand’s high-end perpetual calendars while maintaining Lange’s classic Saxon aesthetics. Initially available in 38.5mm cases – but discontinued […]
Worn & Wound
Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded his eponymous watch company in 1860, but it took over 100 years for the brand to truly come into its own. In 1996, and after three years of development, the company debuted its own in-house movement. The wait seemed to have been worth it. The L.U.C 96.01-L immediately drew acclaim for beautiful finishing, embracing the microrotor, and COSC certification. It, and the subsequent L.U.C. 1860 dress watch, marked a sea change from reliance on third parties to true independence, arriving at a resurgence in fine mechanical watchmaking. Thirty years later, the L.U.C. family has expanded into dozens of variants, complications, and movements. But at 2026’s Watches & Wonders, Chopard pays tribute to 30 years of in-house manufacturing with a continuation of that vaunted original. The L.U.C 1860 Chronometer uses the same dial and microrotor movement from 1996, albeit with their own upgrades and unique design tweaks. The intricate white-gold dial features guilloché finishing in the center, emanating in scalloped waves from the Chopard logo and nameplate. The concentric circles are separated by thin bands of white gold, and delicate spear-shaped markers point inward, toward the dauphine hands. At 6 o’clock, the small-seconds dial echoes the twin-circle pattern of the overall dial, and Chopard specifically mentions the lack of a date window “to preserve purity.” Where the first L.U.C. 1860 had a white dial with gold accents, this Chronometer wears...
Hodinkee
The crowd-favorite gets a few tidy updates, including a slimmer case.
Worn & Wound
I vividly remember when Hermes first launched the H08 five years ago. It marked yet another moment of the brand solidifying its place beyond its roots in fashion and firmly into the horological landscape. Prior to the H08, we had seen more classic, refined, and dare I say quintessentially Hermes collections from the Maison like the Kelly, inspired by the padlock from the famous handbag; the Arceau, drawing from the iconic horse motif; and the Cape Cod, a traditional rectangular design. In 2012, Hermes had a defining moment for its watches with the debut of its first in-house caliber. Still, the H08 marked a new moment of the brand doing something markedly different – decidedly modern and yet distinctly Hermes. In the years since its initial introduction, the H08 has continued to be a success and as such, the Maison has doubled down on the collection, following up with a slew of iterations on the original H08 lineup, which was pretty impressive in its own right, consisting of five variations. We have seen the addition of complications like a chronograph, new sizes ranging from the original 39mm up to 45mm, as well as new styles and colors. Today, at this year’s Watches and Wonders, Hermes offers up the next evolution with the H08 Squelette, the Maison’s interpretation of a skeletonized model. We have seen this openworked style in the brand’s other staple collections, like the Arceau and the Slim d’Hermes, so this seems like a natural next step for the H08 line....
Fratello
For 2026, Tudor has updated its extensive Royal lineup with new sizes, refreshed dial designs, and manufacture movements. The upgrade in calibers, in particular, is an anticipated and welcome step forward. But the aesthetic updates are also quite nice, giving some of the models a retro touch. Let’s take a closer look at the revitalized […] Visit Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Söhne had one of my, and many others’, favorite releases at Watches & Wonders 2025. It wasn’t a super complication and had no bells-and-whistles. Rather, it was simple and small. The 34mm 1815 three-handers in white or rose gold exemplified confident, understated luxury like no other watches at the fair. For 2026, Lange has brought back a watch that had been out of production with a new movement and in a new, smaller size, following suit from last year’s release. Unlike the 1815s, these feature one of the less common complications in the Lange catalog: the annual calendar. The Saxonia Annual Calendar was a very cool watch. It combined its eponymous complication with Lange’s signature outsized date and was powered by a since-retired “Sax-0-Mat” three-quarter-rotor automatic movement. These funky movements were featured in the Langematik watches and represented Lange’s first foray into automatic calibers. In addition to a distinctive look, they featured a hidden complication: zero-reset seconds, meaning that when the crown was pulled out, the seconds hand would jump to zero. In 2011, the Sax-O-Mats began to be replaced by central rotor calibers with up to 72 hours of power reserve, an increase from 46 hours, but the zero-reset seconds disappeared. Though comprising many different calibers, most of Lange’s currently in-production automatics have a central rotor. I am unsure when the previous generation of the Saxonia Annual Calendar went out of pro...
Hodinkee
Rolex introduces a special Datejust 41 with a green lacquer ombré dial to mark 100 years of the Oyster case.
Worn & Wound
Tudor is at its best when they surprise. Sure, there have been some controversial pieces over the years, like the North Flag and P01 (though I’d argue they were both very successful as attention grabbers), but watches like the BB54, BB58 925, and even FXD took us off guard when they first dropped. This year, Tudor has followed suit with the Monarch, a watch that took us off guard in the press release but impressed in person. Before getting to the watch, it was made clear to us that although this year marks 100 years of the brand, they aren’t throwing a big celebration for themselves, nor did they release a watch specifically dedicated to the centennial anniversary. The Monarch, which is a spiritual recreation or tribute to an early 20th-century Tudor model, is meant to acknowledge said birthday. So, basically, don’t call it an anniversary watch, just an anniversary-like watch. Ok, with that out of the way, let’s take a look at this surprisingly cool new model. Measuring 39mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and, I’m estimating, as this dimension was not provided, in the neighborhood of 48mm lug-to-lug, so basically BB58 sized, the Monarch, despite some vintage cues, looked and felt pleasantly modern on the wrist. The case, made of stainless steel, was quite different from others in the Tudor lineup. It had hooded, aggressively chamfered lugs, with a sharply faceted drop-off. There were also flat segments on either side of the case, emphasizing a geometric overall shape...
Worn & Wound
Tudor continues to expand their Black Bay 54 collection at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the Black Bay 54 “Blue”. Since the launch of the original Black Bay 54, the diver has settled into a role as a favorite among enthusiasts for its slender, compact proportions. The original release was a straightforward black dialed, black bezel affair, and last summer saw the surprise launch of the “Lagoon Blue” reference that re-characterized the watch as a fun, more jewelry oriented diver than we would have expected. A diver with a blue dial and bezel is frankly something expected in a dive watch lineup these days, so this release is not so much a surprise, but it’s interesting to see how Tudor executes on a dive watch standard. In terms of specs, there are no big surprises here, and this edition of the 54 follows those that have come before. The case in stainless steel measures 37mm in diameter and has water resistance to 200 meters. It runs on the same MT5400 movement, which is COSC-certified and has a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. It’s available on both a rivet style three link bracelet or a rubber strap. The blue dial is very, very blue. Tudor refers to it as “sapphire blue” and in the bright lights of their booth at Palexpo the sunray finishing and almost purple-ish hues are quite prominent on the dial. It’s very saturated, and I think even in less intense lighting it will have a lot of presence. If you compare it to other blue wa...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe celebrates the semicentennial of its coveted sports watch with the 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, a trio of two hand precious metal watches in white gold and platinum – and an unexpected pocket watch desk clock. The deletion of the seconds hand is a return to the line’s aesthetic roots, also demonstrated by a new 38 mm case size, very close to that of the original. But, it remains on the precious metal path Patek Philippe began in 2021 when it axed the steel ref. 5711. Initial Thoughts These anniversary editions are the truest to the original Nautilus that we’ve seen in recent memory. The sans seconds ref. 3700/1A, launched in 1976, was powered by the JLC 920-based cal. 28-355C, which the calibre 240 was meant to replace. While Audemars Piguet stuck to the two hands plug date format with the Royal Oak Jumbo, Patek Philippe migrated the Nautilus to its new sweep-seconds platform. I believe something was lost when Patek Philippe added a sweep seconds hand to the Nautilus, though understandable from a business perspective given that watches with seconds hands generally have broader appeal than those without. That is recovered here, and the deletion of the calendar sets it apart from the original enough to not be a “reissue”. A smaller 38 mm Nautilus, with better proportions than the existing Ladies models, in also appreciated. The 38 mm platinum ref. 5610/1P-001. It is a shame then that the return of a two hand Nautilus is to be a fleeting one,...
Hodinkee
The brand's first ever ceramic bracelet, and a dressy addition to a classic GMT.
Teddy Baldassarre
METAS certification and new five-link bracelet options come to two of the most popular Black Bays.More
Fratello
Tudor expands its lineup of mid-size dive watches with an updated Black Bay 58 and a new bracelet option for the Black Bay 58 GMT. Both watches keep the familiar 39mm case and continue to draw on late-1950s Tudor dive-watch aesthetics. The three-hand model adds technical upgrades, revised case proportions, and Master Chronometer certification. These […] Visit Tudor Introduces A Slimmer Black Bay 58 With Master Chronometer Certification And Another Bracelet For The Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
IWC teams up with Vast, prospective constructors of the International Space Station’s private successor, with the IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, a uniquely astronaut-friendly take on a spacefaring watch that breaks new ground for IWC’s signature pilots watches. If all goes well, these watches pass the Kármán line next year when Vast plans to launch the Haven-1 commercial space station. Initial thoughts Vast is an American aerospace company hoping to develop modular commercial space stations (Haven-2), and, at a glance seems more promising than the average ambitious space startup. If all goes to plan, the Vast Pilot will launch with the Vast’s Haven-1 prototype space station in 2027. The Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive - which could easily have been called the “Vast Pilot” as a play on its popular Big Pilot - is among the most visually appealing watches from IWC in recent memory. Computer rendering of the Vast Haven-1. Image – Vast Pressroom The combination of white and dark gray, and a clean but technical look leans into the “NASA Punk” aesthetic. The minimalist industrial look calls to mind watches like the IWC Ocean 2000, designed by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche. The gradated blue horizon around the dial is an inspired thematic choice, and is paired with a matching seconds hand. The lack of a chronograph is surprising, given IWC’s general affinity for them, as well as their domination of the space watch genre. I find that refreshing, sinc...
Fratello
Patek Philippe has updated one of its long-running calendar models with a new version of the reference 5396R. The watch keeps the familiar Annual Calendar layout the brand introduced back in 1996, but now it comes with a warmer dial color in sunburst sand beige and a rose gold case. It’s not a redesign in […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Combined with White Rolesor construction and fluted bezel, this take adds understated luxury to one of the Crown's most classic models. More
Fratello
The Datejust was my first Rolex, and I believe it was for many. It’s the perfect one-watch-do-it-all. The modern Rolex Datejust prices could make you think differently, but it was never a cheap watch to begin with. My colleague Gerard often called it “the mother of all modern wristwatches,” and I agree with him. It’s […] Visit Introducing: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 With A Green Lacquer Ombré Dial to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Cartier’s debuts at Watches & Wonders 2026 include notable crowd pleasers, with a standout being the Santos-Dumont LM with a mesh-link bracelet in matching precious metal. Inspired by watch bracelets of the 1920s, the new bracelet is 15 links across with each link just 1.15 mm high, making it supple and ergonomic. Very much catering to fad for such bracelets, it is also removable and sports a double-folding clasp. The new Santos-Dumont models themselves are cosmetic variations of the existing model, with the most unusual being the yellow gold version with a dial of obsidian, which is volanic glass. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont pairs the familiar square watch with an appropriately retro mesh-link bracelet that fits the design perfectly. Like the Les Opus trio, this Santos-Dumont trio isn’t imaginative or novel, but it is executed well and has tactile appeal. Both the clasp and flush-fit end links that continue the link pattern are a pleasing touch. In some ways the bracelet is perhaps more fitting for the model given its history as an aviator’s watch, although the Santos-Dumont now is very much a dress watch in the modern sense of the term. The commercial success of 2023’s Tank Normale with a bracelet probably helped convince Cartier that such bracelets are a winner, despite the substantial cost of a precious metal bracelet today. That said, the new Santos-Dumont on a bracelet is pricey but not outrageously so. It starts at €44,400 in yellow gold and ris...
Monochrome
For decades, the stainless steel Rolex Daytona has been one of the most desirable watches from the Crown’s catalogue. The brand’s chronograph, born in 1963, has been available in hundreds of versions, but when it comes to steel versions, the choice has always been limited to two options: silvery-white with black contrasting counters or rings, […]
Fratello
For 2026, Zenith celebrates five years of one of its defining modern watches. Since its 2021 debut, the Chronomaster Sport has pushed the El Primero automatic chronograph into a new era. Its contemporary, sporty design has also made it a perfect platform for experimentation. This year, Zenith leans into that potential with its most avant-garde […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two-Tone And A New Skeleton Collection With An Updated Clasp to read the full article.
Fratello
The only sense of nature you can experience when spending days on end in Geneva’s Palexpo event center is by handling Grand Seiko novelties. Yes, we sometimes joke about the plethora of nature-inspired dial designs that the Japanese brand releases. Still, they’re most welcome during Watches and Wonders. After a couple of steamy sessions in […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Sure to be among the most talked-about releases of Watches & Wonders, TAG Heuer has just unveiled the Monaco Evergraph. The openworked Monaco marks the debut of the calibre TH-80, one of the most advanced chronograph movements on the market. The Evergraph’s movement is notable for several reasons, but the most surprising is the use of an innovative compliant structure to simplify the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts Beginning with the relaunch of the TH-Carbonspring last year, TAG Heuer has been on something of a road to redemption. Not long ago it seemed like the brand’s brightest days might be behind it, but the Evergraph provides further evidence that TAG Heuer has been retooling to become a new leader in technical innovation. The famous Breitling-Heuer-Buren Calibre 11 - one of the first automatic chronograph movements to hit the market back in 1969 - debuted in a Monaco, and so it’s fitting that the new TH-80 movement is first glimpsed through the transparent dial of the Monaco Evergraph. In more ways than one, the Evergraph pays proper hommage to original Heuer Monaco while remaining decidedly future-oriented. It is also great to see the TH-Carbonspring literally front and centre on the dial side, proof that TAG Heuer is finally delivering on the promise of carbon hairspring industrialisation. Even before digressing into the distinctive mechanics of the new cal. TH80-00, any chronograph aficionado will greatly appreciate the particular crown and...
Time+Tide
Frederique Constant updates the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture with a redesigned dial, case, and movement.The post Frederique Constant updates its Classic Worldtimer Manufacture with a redesigned case, dial, and movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IWC celebrates 50 years of the Ingenieur in 2026, and with it brings a fresh collection of watches with diamonds, titanium and tourbillonsThe post IWC expands the Ingenieur on its 50th birthday, with new sizes, materials, diamonds, and a tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers workshop is its skunkworks division devoted to the most exclusive single-piece editions. Each watch is a special commission by connoisseurs seeking one-of-a-kind timepieces to express their unique artistic vision. Les Cabinotiers dates to the 18th century, when master watchmakers, known as cabinotiers, worked in the brighter top floors of Genevan workshops. […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Skeleton to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Alpina updates its Startimer Pilot Automatic collection with a redesigned case and dials featuring applied solid lumed indices.The post Alpina updates its Startimer Pilot collection, celabrating 15 years of the modern collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Nomos is ringing in a golden age at Watches and Wonders 2026, with the introduction of the new Tangente Gold Neomatik 38 Update. Two distinctive versions join the catalog alongside a steel model, all three in a sweet-spot size. This news comes alongside the brand’s expansion of its gold offerings to cover (almost) the full […] Visit Nomos Enters A Golden Age With The New Tangente Neomatik 38 Update to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Omega Constellation First up this week is a nice vintage Omega Constellation. Now, this isn’t the more well known pie-pan version, but it’s still a stunning piece made with the same attention to detail. This is a later 1960s version, with a large “C” style case that is in excellent condition. Nice crisp edges with the original brushed and polished finish. The caseback observatory medallion is not an added gold piece, but rather engraved directly into the steel back. The crown is signed and looks correct. The dial has a beautiful cross-hatch linen texture to it, with thin stick markers and stick hands. There is a day/date window at three o’clock. Dial looks clean and original. The watch comes on the original brick link bracelet, although one of the links is broken and it will need repair. No movement picture but the watch runs per the seller. View auction here Seiko JDM Sport Diver Here’s a great Seiko diver that is a modern re-issue of a vintage model. In the late 1990s Seiko did a series of Sport Diver re-issues with modern specs and movements. These are a great way to have that vintage vibe but not have to worry about babying the watch. This one has a tonneau shaped...
Worn & Wound
I’ve been doing this long enough that by now I probably should have reviewed a Monta. For whatever reason, I just haven’t had the chance. It’s kind of like living in Cooperstown and never going to the Baseball Hall of Fame. Inexplicable. Of course, I’ve handled plenty of Montas over the years. They’ve been a presence at Windup Watch Fairs, and I’ve known many, many collectors who have owned Monta watches of various stripes, and I’ve tried them on and taken the requisite wrist shots at meetups and events through the years. This time around, with the release of the new Monta Noble 40, I was finally able to spend some real time with a Monta. Like all Monta watches it’s technically excellent, but the updates make it feel a little less special than its predecessor. The Noble, along with the Triumph, is the most stripped down watch in the Monta collection. It’s not a big burly tool watch, and it doesn’t have a complication beyond the date at 6:00. It’s a bit of a cliche, but you could say that it boils down Monta to its essence, which is a really solid, value oriented, everyday watch with impeccable finishing for the price. I’ll probably keep coming back to the finishing, because it’s really the strength of all Monta watches that I’ve had a chance to handle, and that’s been the case consistently since the brand was founded. They just have a very good idea of what they’re after in terms of how their cases and bracelets should look and feel, and...
Hodinkee
The new "Meteorite Octa" isn't a part of the brand's permanent collection, so you've only got a few days to decide if you love it. And I think you just might.
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