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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.
Mystery Solved: The Big Bang Happened 20 Years Ago! - Hublot Celebrates Two Decades Of The Big Bang Fratello
Hublot Celebrates Two Decades Apr 3, 2025

Mystery Solved: The Big Bang Happened 20 Years Ago! - Hublot Celebrates Two Decades Of The Big Bang

There’s no denying it: 2025 truly is a year of anniversary parties. Some traditional watchmaking houses are celebrating centuries of Haute Horlogerie craftsmanship, while many individual watches are throwing birthday parties. Hublot is celebrating two decades of Big Bang watches this year. The outspoken sports watch is still going strong and continuing to evolve. To […] Visit Mystery Solved: The Big Bang Happened 20 Years Ago! - Hublot Celebrates Two Decades Of The Big Bang to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Black And Blue Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Apr 3, 2025

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Black And Blue

One brand stands out to me in the avalanche of new releases during Watches and Wonders this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a remarkable series of new Reversos displaying an extensive range of models. The stellar Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold on the mesh bracelet is the absolute standout. For me, it is […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Black And Blue to read the full article.

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Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 on Settimo Bracelet SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 3, 2025

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 on Settimo Bracelet

In a rare move, Rolex has unveiled an all-new bracelet, the Settimo, that goes with the Perpetual 1908. Comprised of seven polished and rounded links, the Settimo is vintage in style and available only in yellow gold for now, to match the 1908 in the same metal. Though unusual for Rolex, the new bracelet is typical Rolex in quality and construction, making it robust despite the compact links and supple feel. It also incorporates the Crownclasp with its hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism. Initial thoughts Unlike the new GMT-Master II, the Settimo on the 1908 is unexpected. The original 1908 was already surprising when it was launched two years ago, since it was Rolex’s first new attempt at a dress watch in a long time. The supple Settimo bracelet is unlike other Rolex bracelets, which tend to be heavy and solid. Both in terms of look and feel, the pairs well with the 1908, which is one of the thinnest Rolex models with an Oyster case. The retro straight end links are also a nice touch. When purchased together, the 1908 on a bracelet costs about US$12,000 over the same on a strap, which makes the bracelet something of a value buy in terms of precious metal bracelets. The bracelet can be retrofitted to a 1908 originally sold with a strap, but it costs substantially more on its own. The only downside of the new bracelet is the fact that it’s only available in yellow gold, for now at least. I expect it’ll be rolled out across the 1908 progressively over time. Settimo...

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Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement SJX Watches
Cartier Revisits Apr 3, 2025

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement

One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration. Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces. The regular production models (left), and limited edition Initial thoughts The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct. The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre ...

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[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra Worn & Wound
Tudor Goes Deep Apr 2, 2025

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra

Tudor’s most technical dive range receives its most technical entry yet. Over the last few years, we’ve seen the Pelagos expand quite dramatically, starting with the introduction of the FXD series, which has ranged from military-spec via the M.N. to carbon fiber chronographs, to a GMT, to standard varieties, as well as the smaller-wrist-compatible Pelagos 39. For 2025, however, we’re seeing a return or a close relative to the original Pelagos, with a 1000m variant called the Pelagos Ultra. At double the water resistance of the original, 1000m is undoubtedly the headline of the Ultra, but there are many subtle changes to the design that give this new watch its own personality. First, the case is a touch larger at 43mm in diameter (vs 42mm for the original), 52mm lug-to-lug (my measure), and 14.8mm thick. While these dimensions sound imposing, they were more tolerable than expected on the wrist, largely because of the lightweight grade 2 titanium construction. The spacing between the dial and the crystal was reduced to keep the case relatively thin, or at least not thicker than the original. As such, the rehaut was redesigned to be flat and a touch wider. While I am a bit remiss to see the steeply angled rehaut with cutouts of the original get cut, as I found it a particularly enjoyable design that added a contemporary and aggressive edge to the watch, the new version is less distracting and allows for more dial space. In turn, the applied hour markers and hands are la...

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First Look – The 270th-Anniversary Editions of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openface Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openface Not all Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The 270th-Anniversary Editions of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openface

Not all of Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-anniversary pieces are steeped in classicism. The three Traditionnelle Openface models are refreshingly contemporary, offering a view of the modern architecture of their calibres. While the complications differ from model to model, the new trilogy shares openworked dials, a special guilloché pattern designed to mark the anniversary and luxurious platinum […]

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Baltic Introduces the Scalegraph Tour Auto Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Baltic Introduces Apr 2, 2025

Baltic Introduces the Scalegraph Tour Auto Limited Edition

Few hobbies work better in tandem than horology and motorsports. Impressive dials, colorful flamboyance, and calculated performance? Check and check. While many a watchmaker has created an automotive-inspired watch, however, how many have a bonafide racing team with which to test their timepiece?  The Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto Limited Edition is both a celebration of the French brand’s third year as the Tour Auto official timekeepers, and a tool for the Baltic Racing team to take with them in the cockpit as they participate in the very same competition. The race takes participants-driving vintage performance cars-from Paris to Nice in different touring segments, all of which are open to spectators. The Baltic Racing crew will be driving a 1963 Lotus Elan 26R and a 1965 MG B-of course, they’ll also be sporting the new Scalegraph Tour Auto in a high octane field test for the sports chronograph watch.  In a nod to motorsports watch designs from the 1970s, the titular Scalegraph features a “Big Eye” layout, with off-white subdials at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, making the minute sub-counter more legible at a glance while racing. A blue aluminum tachymeter bezel encircles the lighter blue dial, which in turn has an outer minutes railway in a middle-toned hue of blue, creating gentle layers of contrast directly inspired by the colors of the original Tour de France Automobile. A large silver 12 market sits at the top of the dial with a midcentury sans serif...

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Bremont Adds Jump Hour References to the Terra Nova Collection Worn & Wound
Cartier introduced Apr 2, 2025

Bremont Adds Jump Hour References to the Terra Nova Collection

Bremont, Bremont, Bremont. What are we to make of Bremont? It’s been a year now since Bremont first announced their Terra Nova collection alongside a complete corporate rebrand, and while we’ve seen the brand expand the Terra Nova line a few times since then with new colorways and materials, Bremont had - until now, that is - kept the lineup of their field watch fairly restrained. Now, we’re seeing them break away from the trio of models they released last year with a pair of jump hour models; one in bronze, the other in steel. Built around a “unique and exclusive” jumping hour movement developed by Bremont with Sellita, the Bremont Jumping Hour 40.5 Steel and Jumping Hour Bronze are a fun take on what has been a fairly down-the-middle field watch by integrating what is a surprisingly long-standing wristwatch complication. Jumping hour wristwatches have been around since at least the 1920s - Cartier introduced, by way of example, the Tank à Guichets in 1928 - and have remained a constant in the century since. Here, Bremont is offering up two distinct takes on the concept, each in the rough format of the Terra Nova. The stainless steel Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hours 40.5 Steel takes after watches like the Fears Brunswick jump hour, with a traditional sweep seconds hand, and a jump hour and minute window sitting at 9 o’clock. All this is supplemented by a black lacquer dial, with luminous material throughout and the minute track off of a standard Te...

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Hublot Drops a Set of Unique Pieces to Celebrate the Big Bang Anniversary Worn & Wound
Hublot Drops Apr 2, 2025

Hublot Drops a Set of Unique Pieces to Celebrate the Big Bang Anniversary

If $1 million were dropped in your lap tomorrow, what would you do with it? It’s an age-old question (okay, maybe not age-old), one that has driven endless late-night discussion and at least one surprisingly popular ‘90s Canadian rock song. Most of us have some version of an answer to the question, and Hublot has come along to offer up one solution for one lucky Big Bang enthusiast. As part of their celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, Hublot has produced a hell of a collector’s set - the Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Materials and High Complications” Unique Set. What does that mean? Well, it’s pretty much what it says on the tin. Hublot has, through a collection of five piece unique watches, built a collection of Big Bangs that does a pretty cohesive job of summing up the last two decades of Big Bang into one illuminated case. And for the very reasonable price of - cue Doctor Evil - $1 million dollars (well, really 1 million CHF, so about $1,099,000 US) it can all be yours. Inside this extreme collector’s set, you’ll find five Hublot Big Bangs, each of which combines a ‘high complication’ feature set with a case executed in some modern material or another. Moving through the collection, you’ll find a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a red and black ceramic case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a transparent sapphire case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph in a Water Blue Sapphire case, a Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Ca...

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First Look – The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition Monochrome
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition

Introduced in 2018, the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere series brought a unique world-time complication to the forefront, featuring two rotating globes depicting the northern and southern hemispheres. Designed with a distinctive vintage tool-watch aesthetic, it was Montblanc’s answer to the ultimate explorer’s timepiece – a rugged and reliable companion for mountaineering and outdoor adventures. Since its […]

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First Look – The New Editions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The New Editions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds

The Tribute Duoface Small Seconds stands out as one of the finest modern expressions of the timeless Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre. First presented in 1994, the Duoface concept does not offer caseback engraving options. Instead, it compensates with the added functionality of a second time zone display on the reverse side, making full use of its […]

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Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Apr 2, 2025

Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel

Anyone familiar with Moser’s concept watches knows that ‘concept’, in Moser’s vocabulary, means maximum minimalism: no logos, no indices, no inscriptions…just the bare essentials. Moser is also intimately associated with beautiful dials and has shown how traditional métiers d’art, like Grand Feu enamel, can create strikingly contemporary dials. The latest Endeavour Tourbillon Concept is a […]

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IWC Expands the Ingenieur Collection Worn & Wound
IWC Expands Apr 2, 2025

IWC Expands the Ingenieur Collection

It’s deja vu all over again for IWC. Two years ago at Watches & Wonders, the brand debuted, at long last, and after a great deal of anticipation and speculation, a new version of the Ingenieur. The new Ingenieur was effectively the sole focus of the brand’s Watches & Wonders output in 2023 – a fact that underscored the importance of the release for the brand. It was met, at the show, with quite a bit of acclaim. To put it on your wrist and to see and feel the finishing of the case and bracelet in person revealed a watch that was designed to compete with the likes of the Royal Oak and Overseas. Ambitious, perhaps, but not crazy. That said, IWC (and the rest of the watch community) have always known that if the brand was going to offer a true lower priced alternative to those integrated bracelet sports watches, they’d need to fill out the collection with some additional options. And that’s exactly what IWC has done at this year’s Watches & Wonders, dropping a dizzying array of new Ingenieurs in new materials, sizes, and with new complications.  Here we’ll focus on some of the obvious standouts. First, an Ingenieur that has always seemed like one that was missing from the collection: a variant in full ceramic. The Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic is exactly what it says on the proverbial tin. This is a slightly larger version of the Ingenieur released a few years back with a modern 42mm case, but much of that increased size is hidden by the deep black to...

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First Look – An Upgraded Movement and Design for the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Released Apr 2, 2025

First Look – An Upgraded Movement and Design for the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar

Released in 2016 with a price tag of EUR 8,000, Frederique Constant’s Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was one of the most affordable QPs on the market. Powered by FC’s in-house calibre FC-775, the perpetual calendar appeared in the Slimline family and the sportier Highlife collection. For Watches & Wonders 2025, the perpetual calendar returns in a […]

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Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Watches in the Altitude Line Worn & Wound
Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Apr 2, 2025

Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Watches in the Altitude Line

Last year was, no matter how you look at it, a transformational one for Bremont. Nowhere was this more obvious than at Watches & Wonders 2024, where the English brand rolled into Palexpo with a new CEO, new watches, and an entirely new brand identity. To say they caused a stir would be an understatement, and the brand’s radical reinvention was one of the prevailing narratives in the show’s aftermath. Still, amidst all the discourse and new collections, one key Bremont tentpole went undisturbed last year - but no longer. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2025, Bremont is introducing an updated offering of pilot’s watches, bringing what is arguably Bremont’s most important collection of watches in line with the rest of the new Bremont catalog. The updated Altitude lineup is made up of three new models: The Altitude 39 Date, the Altitude Chronograph GMT, and the Altitude MB Meteor (a successor to the MBII), and offers the best balance so far between a classic Bremont feel and the brand’s updated identity. There’s also a perpetual calendar to be discussed, but that’s for another time. Notably, each of the new watches retains Bremont’s hallmark Trip-Tick case, which was notably omitted from last year’s launches. Still, there is no confusing these for old-school Bremont. The updated Altitude collection boasts a slimmer look, with thinner lugs and bezels, and the watches each adopt a near-monochromatic colorway, dropping some of the colorful flourishes Bremont has of...

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