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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.
[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Xeric Timeline Retrograde Worn & Wound
Feb 24, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Xeric Timeline Retrograde

When I attended the New York Windup Watch Fair for the first time, I was exposed to a multitude of brands and had my eyes opened to just how unique the watch industry could really be. Among the brands that I was introduced to, Xeric stood out due to their futuristic, space themed and outright eccentric designs. As I’ve followed Xeric, they’ve continued down this same path, which brings us to the Timeline Retrograde. With this new release, Xeric has set out to revive the double retrograde movement, making it relevant and affordable for modern collectors. To do this, Xeric has introduced the “Xeric Caliber X5.1” movement: to put it simply, this is a custom built module which stacks upon a Miyota 9015, a common movement in the microbrand community known for its reliability and affordability. This module gets you a retrograde display without the exorbitant costs associated with developing an entirely new movement from scratch. Additionally, since the foundation of this watch is a 9015, it should prove to be a reliable timepiece for years to come, but also be serviceable in case something happens.  The standout feature of the Xeric Timeline Retrograde is, without a doubt, its retrograde time display. Unlike traditional analog dials where multiple hands simply rotate around the face, the two retrograde hands “sweep” across the dial in an arc and then jump back to the start. The hours are shown by a shorter hand that glides from 12 to 12, while the minutes are indica...

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Hot Take: The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 Refines a Winning Formula Fratello
Feb 24, 2025

Hot Take: The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 Refines a Winning Formula

In the world of independent watchmaking, few brands make an impression right out of the gate. WRK Timepieces, however, did just that with its debut ACF-01 last year. Now, with the release of the ACF-02, the brand refines its design language while maintaining the bold, lightweight approach that made its first model stand out. WRK […] Visit Hot Take: The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 Refines a Winning Formula to read the full article.

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First Look – The new Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu Monochrome
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu Feb 24, 2025

First Look – The new Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu

Just four months after Louis Erard unveiled its handsome Régulateur Gravé with a black dial, the brand returns with a blue dial. The idea of blending the brand’s classic regulator layout with a sector dial was spot-on; however, adding traditional engraving techniques to the mix was an inspired choice. Joining the permanent and newly created […]

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko Fratello
Grand Seiko Welcome Feb 24, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko

Welcome to another series of Fratello Favorites! Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. I am the lucky first to outline what I think are the best vintage watches in the price range and why. Over the coming weeks, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko to read the full article.

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Shanghai Watches and the Birth of the Chinese Watch Industry Two Broke Watch Snobs
Feb 23, 2025

Shanghai Watches and the Birth of the Chinese Watch Industry

In watch culture today, “tool watches” are those meant for physical activity; the gym, swimming, scaling Mount Everest, setting new freediving records – you know, the things we all do, all the time. In reality, every watch is a tool, regardless of its water resistance rating or its ability to survive a drop from a three-story building. Organizing human activity is a major logistical challenge, and many require timing and coordination, though the degree to which that’s true varies. Timing military operations to achieve maximum pressure on the objective needs a little bit more coordination than meeting with some friends for lunch across town (though that may depend on the friend group).

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Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic - The First Production Watch Featuring Multicolored Ceramic Fratello
Breitling Hamilton Feb 23, 2025

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic - The First Production Watch Featuring Multicolored Ceramic

History repeats itself. You know of the debate about which automatic chronograph came first. Was Zenith’s El Primero, the Caliber 11 developed by Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton, and movement specialist Dubois Dépraz, or the Speedtimer by Seiko the first? Now we have a new case of “Who came first?” It involves two watches - the Hublot […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic - The First Production Watch Featuring Multicolored Ceramic to read the full article.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Microsoft Makes a Big Quantum Computing Advancement, Saying Goodbye to Trakke, and Plymouth Prowlers Hit the Auction Block Worn & Wound
Feb 22, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Microsoft Makes a Big Quantum Computing Advancement, Saying Goodbye to Trakke, and Plymouth Prowlers Hit the Auction Block

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. True Detective Season 5 is Coming  The fourth season of True Detective was divisive to say the least. The Jodie Foster led story set in the Arctic Circle was highly anticipated, and much of the discussion around the show centered around a True Detective mythology that may or may not really exist, perhaps leading viewers off course and less able to get sucked into the story. But no matter what we think of any individual season of True Detective, the concept is so strong, we always want more, and we got some details about the upcoming season 5 recently via Deadline. Issa Lopez is back as showrunner, and production is set to begin in earnest in the next few months. The big news though is that the setting of the show has been revealed as Jamaica Bay, New York, which of course will provide for a very different vibe than Alaska. The new season is expected to air in 2027. The Into Thin Air Debate Rages On  Recently in Slate, writer Laura Miller dove into the most recent round of animus in the ongoing debate over what really happened on Mt. Everest in the famous 1996 expedition that resulted in the deaths of five climbers. Famously chronicled in Into Thin Air by John Krakaue...

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Introducing: The Sinn U15, U16, And U18 Dive Watches Made Of German Submarine Steel Fratello
Sinn U15 U16 Feb 22, 2025

Introducing: The Sinn U15, U16, And U18 Dive Watches Made Of German Submarine Steel

When it comes to Sinn, you know that any limited edition does not come without a special functionally inspired story behind it. It’s not in the brand’s nature to release a new LE “just because.” To celebrate its 20th anniversary of creating diving watches made of submarine steel, Sinn has come up with the new […] Visit Introducing: The Sinn U15, U16, And U18 Dive Watches Made Of German Submarine Steel to read the full article.

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Arcanaut Introduces the D’Arc Roast, with a Dial Made from Coffee Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2025

Arcanaut Introduces the D’Arc Roast, with a Dial Made from Coffee

Coffee and watches. They go together like peanut butter and jelly, movie theaters and popcorn, fireworks and the Fourth of July. OK, it might be the most obvious pair, but there are deep connections if you look for them. There’s a culture of hardcore enthusiasm associated with each, for one. And there’s even an entire brand (an incredibly popular and beloved one in our community) inspired by coffee culture. And, for some reason I’ve never really been able to put my finger on, watch photographers have become incredibly fond of staging watches near coffee mugs, coffee beans, and anything remotely coffee related. The reasons for this, frankly, are puzzling. But there’s one exception: if the dial of your watch is actually made of coffee, I think you’ve earned the right to feature some beans in your shot.  The latest watch from Arcanaut, then, gets a pass if you’re one of the lucky 33 collectors able to acquire one. Built on the ARC II platform with that highly contoured, futuristic 40.5mm stainless steel case, the new D’Arc Roast limited edition features a brown dial that is made, in part, from coffee grounds. It’s right in line with Arcanaut’s mission to experiment with unusual materials, and also reflects the deep love of coffee in the brand’s home country of Denmark, which is the home of four of the seven winners of the Barista World Championship (store that one in the back of your brain for trivia night).  So how is the dial made? According to the bra...

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Editorial – Who Invented the Balance Spring? Reaffirming the Crucial Role of Christiaan Huygens Monochrome
Feb 21, 2025

Editorial – Who Invented the Balance Spring? Reaffirming the Crucial Role of Christiaan Huygens

An article by Rob Memel, antiquarian horologist, professional certified watchmaker since 1984, and author of the book The Development Towards Huygens’ Spiral Spring (1660-1676), from which this article is a summary. About two years ago, I embarked on an in-depth investigation into another watch-related invention by Christiaan Huygens: the spiral spring on a balance wheel. […]

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Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Worn & Wound
Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Feb 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton

I have a feeling that if you asked most watch enthusiasts to tell you their thoughts about Rado, they’d start with the Captain Cook. The brand’s diver has been revived in recent years and become an enthusiast favorite, appearing in both traditional vintage inspired designs as well as more forward thinking and tech oriented variants. I’ve handled my share of Captain Cooks and while I think it’s a perfectly fine dive watch, there’s something a little generic about it and it’s never quite grabbed my interest. It seems positioned as a calling card product for Rado, but I find myself wondering if it’s really the watch that we should most closely identify with the brand.  Because the truth is, when it comes to Rado, they are far more adventurous than the Captain Cook would lead you to believe. And, for that matter, they’re more adventurous than we should have any right to expect given their fairly competitive price points and their place within a big luxury watch group, not typically the home of risk taking when it comes to watchmaking. Beginning with the DiaStar in the 1960s (which featured a case made from an ultra hard alloy that was among the first watches marketed as “unscratchable”) and on into the 1980s when the brand really began hitting their stride with ceramic, Rado has carved out a niche for itself as a brand willing to experiment with both raw materials and the form and function of a watch.  There are many examples of this throughout the brand...

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Just A Minute With The G-SHOCK DW5000R-1A Origin Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2025

Just A Minute With The G-SHOCK DW5000R-1A Origin

41 years ago, the first G-Shock hit the scene. The DW5000C was the brainchild of Kikuo Ibe and was result of Project Team Tough’s pursuit of creating a watch that had great shock resistance, a 10-year battery life, and was water resistant up to 10 bar. More than 40 years later, the brand revisits its origin with the DW5000R-1A. The overall design of this tribute is very similar to the original. The case is slightly larger at 42.3mm yet it is still a stainless steel core that is now wrapped in bio-based resin instead of regular resin. Lug-to-lug is a compact 48.9mm which creates a very comfortable fit on the wrist. Even with the screw down case back, a design choice taken directly from the original, protruding from the back and increasing the overall thickness to 13.1mm. Inside the DW5000R-1A you’ll find the 3576 module. A huge leap forward from the original module 240 found in the DW5000C, the 3576 provides the wearer with an LED light, Stopwatch, Countdown Timer, Full Auto-Calendar and Alarm. This allows you to celebrate the original without sacrificing the comforts of modern watchmaking. 41 years ago, the first G-Shock hit the scene. The DW5000C was the brainchild of Kikuo Ibe and was result of Project Team Tough’s pursuit of creating a watch that had great shock resistance, a 10-year battery life, and was water resistant up to 10 bar. More than 40 years later, the brand revisits its origin with the DW5000R-1A. The overall design of this tribute is very similar t...

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