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Time+Tide
The Fifty Fathoms is a stalwart of the dive watch, dating back to 1953. And, as you might expect, the watch has seen a few revisions over the years, including ones like this, that stretch the boundaries of a rough-and-ready tool watch. Because a 45mm fully gold dive watch is a heck of a flex. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in full gold and bright blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The story in a second: The anOrdain Model 2 is an unbelievable dial at an unbelievable price. From where I’m sitting, 2019 has been a fairly quiet year on the watch front, thanks to a more fragmented release schedule than usual and a general sense of reticence on behalf of many big brands to push the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The anOrdain Model 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The era of the master visionary and maker may be dead and gone in many other industries, but to create a beautiful watch, like composing a beautiful string quartet, you need a Beethoven, a Haydn, or a Brahms not a committee of brainstormers dreaming up target groups. Paul Gerber is up there with the giants, and Marton Radkai explains why.
Time+Tide
To the uninitiated, it may come as a surprise to learn that watches can actually do a fair bit more than merely tell you what time it is. In fact, the myriad complications that can currently be housed inside a timepiece are actually a little bit staggering when you stop to think about it. Weekly … ContinuedThe post Top 3 watches that could save your life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The story in a second: One of the best watch designs of recent times gets complicated. I know I’m not alone in thinking that the Octo Finissimo family is one of the most important commercial watch designs of the last decade or so. Sure, it’s based on an old Genta design, but the Octo has … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Audemars Piguet have once again stunned everyone with their latest full-ceramic piece of timekeeping wonderment – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. Showcasing the Swiss marque’s ceramic prowess, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar’s 41mm black ceramic case and conforming bracelet are finished to exquisite detail, and feature both brushed and polished elements. And … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Most of the time we spend talking about Bulgari at the moment is dedicated to the gorgeous Octo, which, if I’m frank, makes perfect sense. But that’s far from the only arrow in Bulgari’s gem-set quiver. On the more feminine side of the fence there’s also the venerable (and not at all venomous) Serpenti, which … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The snakelike excellence of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The last time Audemars Piguet had a skeletonised Royal Oak perpetual calendar in the catalogue, it was 2015. The skeleton perpetual is familiar enough that it doesn’t seem to have been missing for that long, but it’s been a half-decade. In the mean time, Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled the next generation of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, with the case widened to 41mm, and then introduced it in black ceramic, and only just, in white ceramic. And it took some time to develop the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar ever. But now the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked is back, in proper, fine form. Putting a skeleton movement inside the bestselling Royal Oak in black ceramic is obvious, and could have been done in the easiest way possible. But AP went one better; it developed a new calibre, the 5135, that is not merely open-worked, but also redesigned for maximum aesthetic effect. “This is the first time in many years that AP has introduced an openworked perpetual calendar wristwatch,” says Michael Friedman, the head of complications at AP, “The effort here was to create an experience of contrast and play of light.” I’d say AP succeeded. The watch pictured is a travelling prototype, so pardon the cleanliness of the movement Ceramic and the Royal Oak But first, a small, modestly technical digression on the material and the watch. The case and bracelet are made of black ceramic, specifically zirconium oxide stabilised with yttrium oxide – essential for...
Time+Tide
Have you ever had a real snake wrap itself around your wrist? If not, I urge you to do so. Really. It’s a wonderful sensation. If you have, you will know exactly what I mean. It feels amazingly sensuous. Gentle, warm, almost fluid. And those were pretty much my first impressions when I tried on … ContinuedThe post Temptation strikes with Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours landed in Melbourne last week, and not only was I fortunate to take a closer look at it, but the kind people at Franck Muller invited me to celebrate it with them at a dining event with some of their important local clients. It was a great opportunity to … ContinuedThe post EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Having only begun yesterday and open until October 13, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore is a watchmaking extravaganza – with free entry to the public – that’s already a box office hit on its opening weekend. Reputed to have cost some 20m Swiss francs, the vast historical and cultural showcase is the biggest Patek Philippe has staged to date, with 10 rooms spread over 1900m2, or over 20,000ft2. Pre-registrations for the event exceeded 35,000 people, with the total tally after two weeks expected to substantially surpass that; the first day alone saw some 4000 visitors pass through. The venue: Sands Theatre at Marina Bay Sands But as important as its broad appeal is the fact that the exhibition has drawn some of the world’s most important watch collectors to the city state. Outside of a factory event in Geneva, there probably hasn’t been this many custom Patek Philippe wristwatches together in one place. A custom dial ref. 5970J owned by the gentleman collector known as @horology_ancienne One of the major contemporary timepieces on show: the Star Calibre 2000 And arguably the most major watch of any sort in the exhibition: the landmark Calibre 89, the most complicated portable watch ever at the time of its creation in 1989 The six limited edition watches created especially for the event have garnered the most headlines, but the exhibition itself is worth a long visit because there’s a lot to see. It covers not just Patek Philippe, but...
Time+Tide
Hublot has teamed up with the initiative Save Our Rhino Africa/India (SORAI) to create the fetching, limited edition Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI. Stylised to mimic the tonal colours of Africa’s vast bush land, the new Big Bang Unico SORAI’s 45mm case is finished in microblasted beige ceramic, as is the watch’s bezel. Providing a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Announced just yesterday, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Singapore 2019 ref. 7234A-001 created especially for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition is the first variation of the watch in stainless steel. It is limited to 400 pieces and will only be available in Southeast Asia. The Pilot Calatrava Travel Time was first introduced in 2014 as the ref. 5524G in a 42mm white-gold case. Later in 2018, the brand unveiled a 37.5mm version, the ref. 7234R in rose gold. While the case material is the main point of difference in the Singapore edition, its bluish grey dial is distinctive and unusual, and more so in the context of such vintage aviator-inspired dials which are typically in a darker colour for greater legibility. The dial colour is meant to evoke the seascapes of Southeast Asian nations, including the port city of Singapore. Its embossed blue calfskin strap, a first for Patek Philippe, is also unique to the watch. It is otherwise mechanically identical to the standard model. Powering it is the 294-part self-winding 324 S C FUS which features a dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time as well as a day and night indicator for both local and home time, displayed in apertures on the dial. Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement offers a 45-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 4Hz. As are all of Patek Philippe’s current movements, it is equipped with both a proprietary Gyromax balance and a silicon Spiromax hairsprin...
Time+Tide
While there are many watch enthusiasts out there who consider timepieces with a case size of between 36mm and 40mm to be sitting in the “Goldilocks” zone, there are watches in existence that most certainly do not conform to this notion. These timepieces are made for enthusiasts who want something that has genuine presence on … ContinuedThe post Size is the prize: 3 seriously big watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Back at the beginning of 2013, as a result of kissing goodbye to a couple of watches (mistakes) from my collection, I found myself in the rather fortunate position of needing a new daily timepiece. The buying criteria was fairly simple and straightforward: the new watch needed to be a diver, automatic, Swiss made and … ContinuedThe post Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont has just added Buccellati to its stable of luxury brands, which include watchmakers like A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Panerai. Richemont is buying the 100-year old Milanese jeweller from Gangtai Group Corporation Limited, a Chinese conglomerate that bought a majority stake in 2017 that reputedly valued the jeweller at €230m, or about US$271m at the time, according to Forbes. Gangtai had owned 85% of Buccellati, with the remainder held by the founding family, but like many of its peers the Chinese group has been forced to sell assets as the Chinese government put a stop to the debt-fuelled overseas expansion that was earlier fashionable. The terms of Richemont’s acquisition were not disclosed, although Chinese news website Jing Daily reports Buccellati was valued at US$313m, including debt, equivalent to about 15% of Richemont’s net cash position in the last fiscal year. According to Richemont, Buccellati family scion Andrea Buccellati as well as several other family members will remain with the jeweller after the takeover. Buccellati gives Richemont a more diverse presence in high-end jewellery, where its business is concentrated the Parisian jewellers Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, which together account for the bulk of group sales. In contrast to the French style of both Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati’s Italian sensibility gives Richemont a stylistic counter to Bulgari, the Roman jeweller owned by French luxury ...
Quill & Pad
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203 has a bold appearance due to both its generous diameter of 43.5 mm and even more so by the large chronograph pushers and crown. Despite being such a substantial watch, Martin Green was surprised how well it sat and wore on his modestly sized wrist. Here he summarizes a week wearing this versatile all-rounder.
Time+Tide
Artisanal watchmakers Franck Muller have really taken it to the next level with their latest timepiece, the Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton. Available in a range of different precious metals, including 18k yellow gold and 18k rose gold, the case of the prodigious new wristwatch measures an imposing 44mm and is 12.65mm thick. Housed … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG's Men’s Complication category awards “men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. They may feature classic and/or innovative complications and indications like world time, dual time, or other types of models.” And our panel is split. Again.
Time+Tide
In an unending stream of vintage-inspired wristwatches that are just a little bit off (you know what I mean), you cling to a watch that gets it right like a life raft. The Haven Watch Co. Chilton is exactly that life-saving device, with it tastefully sized at 37mm, and offering a visually compelling dial. Taking … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Haven Watch Co. Chilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Ladies and the slight of wrist, rejoice! And behold the latest offering from German watchmaker Nomos Glashütte – the Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33. In a first for Nomos’ Metro range, the Rose Gold is being offered to customers exclusively in a 33mm case size. Designed by Nomos’ Berlin-based stalwart Mark Braun, the new Metro … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A master case maker who retired in 2017, Jean-Pierre Hagmann is back in action, as a partner in Akrivia’s case-making workshop in Geneva. Now 78 years old, Mr Hagmann struck out on his own in 1984, starting a stellar career that would see him become a case maker for most of Switzerland’s best watchmakers. (For a detailed profile of Mr Hagmann, see my 2016 story.) His client list included establishment names like Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and of course, Patek Philippe, where he produced highly-regarded cases for its minute repeaters. In fact, Mr Hagmann was also responsible for the impressively complex case of the Star Calibre 2000, the uber-pocket watch Patek Philippe introduced to mark the new millennium. Mr Hagmann at work in the 1980s The Patek Philippe ref. 5029 minute repeater, which had a Hagmann case In the first half of his career, Mr Hagmann also worked with many of the up-and-coming stars of independent watchmaking of the 1980s and 1990s, including Franck Muller and Roger Dubuis. He produced the very first Cintree Curvex cases for Franck Muller, as well as the early cases for Roger Dubuis. Another of Mr Hagmann’s cases: the Franck Muller Cintree Curvex minute repeater with perpetual calendar, circa 1991 Three decades later, Mr Hagmann is back where he began. He’s joined forces with a rising star of independent watchmaking, Akrivia, whose founder, Rexhep Rexhepi, is just 32 years old. Though young, Rexhep grasps the impo...
Time+Tide
In general, Grand Seiko has a reputation for being somewhat stealthy on the wrist - but, to be honest, that’s not the case with this chunk of finely crafted steel, better known as the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC203. At a sizeable 43.5mm across by 16.1mm tall, this isn’t the sort of watch that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel taking first place, the second-most expensive watch at Only Watch 2019, will inevitably be the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue. The last time a one of a kind F.P. Journe went on the block at Only Watch, it sold for US$1.15m. On most metrics the Astronomic Blue is a record-setting watch for F.P. Journe. It is the most complex wristwatch ever conceived by Francois-Paul Journe, boasting 18 functions. The Astronomic Blue is also the biggest F.P. Journe watch ever, and might become the most expensive ever after the Only Watch auction in November. Remembering 1987 The Astronomic Blue actually traces its lineage back to a timepiece Mr Journe made in 1987, the “astronomic planetary watch”, a double-faced pocket watch. That, in turn, was inspired by the George Daniels Space Traveller, hence the similar, symmetrical dial layout. The astronomic planetary watch of 1987. Photo – F.P. Journe Going even further back, Daniels modelled the Space Traveller on a handful of Breguet pocket watches from the 19th century, namely pocket watches no. 2807, 3862 and 3863. These featured similar, symmetrical twin sub-dials that indicated both mean solar time and apparent solar time. The Astronomic Blue, in short, is the 21st century take on Breguet’s masterpieces. The George Daniels Space Traveller Large and complicated The Astronomic Blue is a complicated-looking watch, but easy to grasp thanks to the helpfully labelled diagrams provi...
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Two icons reconnect in what may be the future of motorsports.
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