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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Fratello
As I write the first sentence of this article, summer has left us for this year. Here in the Netherlands, it’s the first of a seemingly long streak of days below 20° Celsius or 68° Fahrenheit. It is just as much a psychological adjustment as an actual meteorological one. As the sunlight changes, leaves start […] Visit Hands-On With The Summery Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Dive watches possess a sort of primordial appeal. Dating back to the 1950s, they were invaluable tools for early divers to monitor their dive time. But what makes a dive watch a dive watch? It varies depending on who you ask, but the International Organization for Standards (ISO) 6425 standard provides a perfect starting point. Per ISO, a dive watch must: a) be water-resistant to at least 100, b) possess a method of tracking dive time, c) must show that time in resolution of no larger than minutes over the span of an hour, plus a litany of other tests to achieve ISO 6425 certification. In today’s Chronicle, we’re doing a deep dive into our picks for the five best dive watches for a new enthusiast. Dive watches possess a sort of primordial appeal. Dating back to the 1950s, they were invaluable tools for early divers to monitor their dive time. But what makes a dive watch a dive watch? It varies depending on who you ask, but the International Organization for Standards (ISO) 6425 standard provides a perfect starting point. Per ISO, a dive watch must: a) be water-resistant to at least 100, b) possess a method of tracking dive time, c) must show that time in resolution of no larger than minutes over the span of an hour, plus a litany of other tests to achieve ISO 6425 certification. In today’s Chronicle, we’re doing a deep dive into our picks for the five best dive watches for a new enthusiast. The post The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000 appeared first o...
Deployant
SEVENFRIDAY introduces the new ME-Series, an update to the M-Series, and takes it to a new level with its organic, aerodynamic case design.
Monochrome
An important range for the brand, Zenith keeps enlarging its Defy collection. The name of the collection dates to Zenith’s 1902 line of robust pocket watches bearing the name ‘Defi’, which popped up again in 1969 to distinguish the toughest member of the first El Primero references known as the A3642. The Defy Skyline sub-collection appeared […]
Quill & Pad
Open to the general public for 5 days, Geneva Watch Days welcomed 13,800 visitors, an increase of more than 70% over last year. Carol Besler is a new fan of the summer fair.
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SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s continues its collaborative streak with independent watchmakers. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke is essentially a Louis Erard regulator model dressed in Kudoke’s signature dial and hands. Available in purple, forest green, light blue or white mother-of-pearl, the dial goes all-in with the details. It sports applied chapter rings, clous de Paris patterning on the hour register, and a stamped granular finish on the rest of the dial, echoing the aesthetic of Kudoke’s Handwerk collection. Initial thoughts The new model boasts impressive dial details that are usually found in pricier timepieces, while managing to retain the identities of both brands in a best-of-both-worlds presentation, making it arguably one of Louis Erard’s very best collaborations. But because it is fundamentally a Le Régulateur, it has the shortcomings of the model, namely a noticeably thick case that’s required to accommodate the Sellita base movement plus regulator module. Still, the Kudoke Le Régulateur is a good value proposition all things considered. Though slightly more expensive, the mother-of-pearl model stands out as it offers an unusual combination of materials and design in this price segment. Affordable guilloché The stainless steel case is identical to that of the standard model, and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm in thickness. It is entirely polished and features domed sapphire crystals on both sides. The dial retains the model’s trademark in-lin...
Worn & Wound
Many are quick to point to the venerable Seiko SKX and Seiko Turtle as being the best entry-level dive watches, even going as far as to label them as “must haves” in every collection. That being said, I have always gone a bit against the grain. Now don’t get me wrong, both of those watches have made their way into my permanent collection over the years with the Seiko SKX007 claiming its place as my first serious tool watch, though neither have managed to capture more wrist time than my Seiko Samurai. There is something about the angular architecture, the aggressive handset, and the considerably chunky feel on my wrist that has plucked a heart string within, leading me to argue in its defense and recommend it to those with large wrists akin to my own. So, when I learned that Seiko would be introducing a new generation of Samurai models this year with refined proportions and updated visuals, I jumped at the opportunity to add yet another one to my collection and ordered the red-dialed Seiko Samurai SRPL11. $575 Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Case Stainless steel Movement 4R35 Dial Red Lume Yes Lens Mineral Strap Bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 41.6 x 49mm Thickness 12.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $575 While other models in the Seiko lineup have ultimately remained the same over the years, the Seiko Samurai has seen quite a few changes in its relatively short lifetime. Since its inception in 2004, we have seen the...
Monochrome
Montblanc pays tribute to Italian alpinist Reinhold Messner, one of the world’s greatest high-altitude mountaineers. As the first person to summit all the 14 eight-thousanders, Montblanc celebrates the legendary alpinist’s 80th birthday with a limited edition of the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen. Offering world time and chronograph functions, the new crackled red dial is […]
Fratello
It’s time for another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we cap off Geneva Watch Days 2024 with our favorites from the event. We saw some fascinating watches and met new and old acquaintances. For our listeners, there’s not much banter in this episode! We’ve returned to our respective countries, are we are fully […] Visit Fratello On Air: Our Favorites From Geneva Watch Days 2024 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Every year, for the last ten years(!) Apple has held a press event at their Cupertino, CA headquarters to highlight the launch of a new Apple Watch (and new iPhones, Air Pods, and iOS advancements). It’s kind of hard to believe that the Apple Watch, a device that some said years ago could spell the literal death of the watch industry, has been around for a full decade. The supposed takeover of smartwatches was always a little overblown, I think. At the end of the day, they simply aren’t luxury products, and thus don’t really compete with most mechanical watches. It’s been interesting to observe over this ten year period, in fact, how many watch enthusiasts have embraced the Apple Watch. We have, at any given time, multiple double wristers in our own Worn & Wound offices. This shouldn’t really be all that surprising, though. The Apple Watch, from the very beginning, has taken cues from the world of traditional watchmaking, and some of the bells and whistles associated with the latest version of the watch could have been lifted from the press release of any number of high end Swiss luxury brands. The centerpiece of the Apple Watch news at today’s event is the all new Apple Watch Series 10. The new device is being described by Apple as its lightest and thinnest yet, boasting a 10% thinner case height than the Series 9, and a 20% lighter weight than the stainless steel version of last year’s watch. It’s just 9.7mm thick, and the display is larger than the App...
Video
Worn & Wound
It’s probably not an exaggeration to say that GoPro is one of the most influential and consequential tech companies to spring up in the past two decades or so. Known for their easy to use, affordable, and compact action cameras, they have defined an entire product category, and influenced the way everything from YouTube videos and feature films are shot. Their ubiquity is obvious in the outdoor sports and recreation world, and they’re almost as essential a piece of gear as proper footwear and a pocket knife. Over the years, GoPro has continually refined and improved their core products, expanding use cases and making it even easier for just about anyone to capture high quality video of their lives, whether they be banal and mundane or a constant adrenaline rush. The newest GoPros, the Hero and the Hero13 Black, offer a suite of improvements of their predecessors that should benefit casual and more professional oriented users. The Hero enters the lineup as a slim downed unit that is the smallest ever GoPro with an integrated screen. It weighs just 86 grams and is being positioned as an easy to use 4k video camera aimed at curious amateur videographers who might use it during hardcore outdoor activities like alpine skiing, mountaineering, or water sports (it’s waterproof to 15 feet), or something more sedate like vlogging a vacation experience. The rear facing LCD screen is meant to help frame up shots, and users then control the action from the same screen by touch....
Time+Tide
Big watch fairs can tell us a lot about the state of the industry, and there was plenty going unsaid at Geneva Watch Days 2024.The post What Geneva Watch Days told us about the state of the industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Sinn fans rejoice; the Frankfurt favorite has finally released a watch we’ve all been waiting for. 156 is a number that most Sinn fans have memorized as it refers to one of the most excellent watches in the Sinn archives, not just because of its looks but also because of its lineage and movement(s). You see, the story of the 156 begins with a watch by a different brand altogether, the Heuer-Leonidas Bundeswehr 1550 SG, commonly called the “Heuer Bund.” image credit: analogshift.com A pilot’s chronograph used in the 60s and 70s mainly by the German airforce, though others as well, the Bund was a remarkable tool watch of its day. Powered by the manual wound Valjoux 22 and Valjoux 230 calibers, they featured flyback mechanisms and a clean, bold design with large lumed numerals and a particularly appealing bezel layout. Measuring 43mm in diameter and 13mm thick, they were huge for the era, though in keeping with pilot watch tradition. Helmut Sinn, the founder of Sinn, purchased old inventory of these watches in the 1980s, reconditioned them, added Sinn branding, and rebadged them as the Sinn 155 Bw. In the late 1980s, Helmut set out to create a new generation of military-issued pilot’s chronographs with the 156 by combining the case and general dial design of the 155/Bund with relatively new-to-the-market automatic chronograph movements by Lemania. Thus, the 156 is the direct successor to the Bund via the 155. My Sinn 156 – gone, but not forgotten The 156s most com...
Fratello
You’re a happy and lucky soul if you can put sunshine in your pocket. But if you can’t manage to do so or that’s too abstract, what about putting some sunshine on your wrist? All you need to do is strap on a Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite, and you’re golden. This watch will […] Visit Treasuring Precious Summer Vibes This Monday Morning With The Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The fall auction season kicks off with online auctions, before the primary live sales that take place in November. Phillips in Geneva just opened its online auction with a 70-lot offering of the familiar and mainstream (think Aquanaut, Royal Oak, and Nautilus), but also the esoteric and independent, ranging from an Alain Silberstein perpetual calendar made by Svend Andersen to a Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph. We round up a few highlights from the sale, which runs from September 5-12, 2024, with the catalogue and bidding available online. Lot 9 – Alain Silberstein Marine Perpetual Calendar by Svend Andersen Part of Alain Silberstein’s Marine series of dive watches, the Marine Perpetual is a COSC-certified perpetual calendar in a case rated to 200 m. It’s equipped with a clever, double-sided perpetual calendar movement developed by Svend Andersen. Built on an ETA 2892, the perpetual calendar has a minimalist display with only the date on the dial that’s decorated in Silberstein’s trademark style with geometric shapes, primary colours, along with a starfish, crescent, and sun. On the reverse is the months and leap year in a single register that is mounted on the periphery of the movement, allowing the rotor to travel below the indicator. The Marine Perpetual was a limited edition of 100 watches, though it is likely fewer were made, since they are rarely encountered. It was one of several collaborations that Alain Silberstein in the 1990s with prominent in...
Video
Time+Tide
Fresh from Geneva Watch Days, and into the regular swing of things, with plenty of new releases.The post New releases from Glashütte Original, Biver, Louis Vuitton and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I have never mastered packing light, which bit me during Geneva Watch Days 2024. I carried a relatively heavy backpack with camera gear, a video kit, and a daily swag collection. That’s not normally an issue, but the heat and humidity in Geneva were no joke. Then, my colleague Dave Sergeant took me on a […] Visit Hands-On With The Urwerk EMC SR-71 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Over the summer, the stream of automotive news barely seemed to slow down, with plenty of very cool and impressive cars by multiple brands being launched. Just weeks and sometimes even days apart we got to see new cars from Tuthill, Rimac, Aston Martin and more. We couldn’t explore each one in detail, so we […]
WatchAdvice
Somewhere in between dress and sports, the new Baume & Mercier Classima may be in a class of its own, but how does this piece traverse daily life? What we Love Classic and elegant looks The deep blue dial Has the right amount of wrist presence What We Don’t The rotor movement is a little noise The chronograph pushers are on the stiff side The crystal is on the thinner side, reducing the solid feeling of the watch Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 In a recent article, I delved into the history of Baume & Mercier, and the brand today, like many watch brands with almost two centuries worth of history, is different from the one started back in 1830 by the two Baume Brothers. Over the decades, and now centuries, it has evolved from a brand that was specialising in high complications and winning awards at The Kew Watch Trials, to being a solid mid-entry level player in the Swiss watch industry. This is a similar story to many others out there, and this is not a negative thing by any stretch, it’s just the way the world works – watches and other industries alike. William Baume and Paul Mercier, the founders of what is now known as Baume et Mercier, which evolved out of the original Baume & Co brand set up in 1830 by William’s Grandfather and Great Uncle. The pioneers of the brands and industries were just that, pioneers and the inventors of their time. Nowadays, you still need this, but more so, you need ...
Worn & Wound
Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart. The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...
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Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at five gentlemen’s GMT watches that stand out because of their distinguished presence. These aren’t your typical Rolex GMT-Master-influenced timepieces. No, this is a list of the more classical-looking GMTs, multi-time-zone/traveler’s watches that fly a little more under the radar. So don’t expect any colorful rotating bezels […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound has been a Brooklyn-based operation ever since its first post. We’ve got a lot of love for our location, our neighbors, and the culture that regularly pours out of this borough. So when we heard that one of Brooklyn’s own made this year’s top 20 of American Idol and that he’s a G-SHOCK super-fan, we had to have Ajii join us in our studio. Born and raised not far from us, Ajii is a first generation Brooklynite whose parents immigrated from Pakistan just prior to his birth. His colorful style, steel nerves, and serious pipes became the perfect backdrop for us to explore the all-new G-SHOCK GM2110D G-Steel. Hey Ajii! Thanks for being the next subject in our ongoing series of Enthusiast Spotlights with G-SHOCK. Give us the quick bio on yourself and what you’re up to these days! I’m so happy to do this, man. My name is Ajii. I am 28 years old and I’m born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. I am a musician. I was on the most recent season of American Idol and now I’m chasing a dream and trying to make my parents proud. I think that’s what I’m about. And hopefully, with consistency and everything I’m doing, it pans out the way I want. So I’m just a poor man living in a rich man’s world, trying to do big things. The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Hitting the High Notes with Brooklyn’s Own Ajii and the G-SHOCK GM2110D G-Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
If you want to love Rolex, but you love mechanical movements more than you love watch brands themselves, rejoice: Tim Mosso thinks that we are living in the halcyon days of Rolex movement innovation and shares a few well-illustrated technical and movement highlights right here.
Fratello
Our schedules were full at Geneva Watch Days 2024, but one of the most anticipated sessions was a late-afternoon meeting with Biver. We knew the young brand had a secret new release on the way, but details were scarce. The team, including Pierre Biver, showed us the new Biver Automatique line comprised of four references. […] Visit A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...
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