Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 89: Our Favorite Watch Complications
GMTs, alarms, and chronographs – oh my!
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Hodinkee
GMTs, alarms, and chronographs – oh my!
Quill & Pad
What does it feel like to eject from a jet fighter? Imagine yourself motoring down the autobahn in a convertible doing 600 miles per hour. Now stand up. Chris Malburg talks with owners of Bremont’s most exclusive timepiece – the MB1 – and their jet fighter ejection experiences qualifying them to wear this one-of-a-kind watch.
Time+Tide
For Longines, elegance is an attitude - and that’s something they’ve embodied very nicely indeed with the new Conquest Classic, a watch made with exceptional women (and exceptional wearability) in mind. The Longines Conquest Classic is offered in two case sizes - 29.5mm and 34mm - and in diamond or non-diamond options. The case is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Conquest Classic – a watch for women that lives up to the name appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!
SJX Watches
I am a collector of world time and time zone watches, and own several from mainstream brands. I had long had my own ideas of an ideal travel watch, and this is the tale of how one came to be. A world time watch should simultaneously show at least 24 time zones on the dial. There are principally three dial types that can do this: first is a map of the Earth with time zones marked out; second is a disc with 24 reference time zones indicated by city names; third is a 24 hour ring in conjunction with a ring of reference time zones, widely known as the Cottier world time, after Swiss watchmaker Louis Cottier who built the first wristwatch with the mechanism. Top row, from left: Lottermann & Söhne Weltzeituhr 1, Tissot Heritage Navigator, Patek Philippe ref. 5230G Bottom row: Dubey & Schaldenbrand Weltzeit, Junkers 6892-5 Serie Worldtimer, Jean-Mairet & Gillman Sport. Images – respective brands The first two variants use the entire dial to display world time, leaving no room for additional complications. The Cottier-system can as well dominate the design, with only the centre of the dial available for decorations or additional indications, making it difficult to embellish the dial with motifs relating to a specific brand. Reducing the displays can create a more interesting dial layout, but this results in microscopic indicators that are hardly readable. For this reason, I now prefer time zone watches with only one additional zone time shown on a 24-hour scale, often labelled ...
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Time+Tide
One of the malaises sweeping the Swiss watch industry is, in my oh-so-humble opinion, that of homogeneity. From a distance, the world from the wrist down looks remarkably similar: round, black-dialled steel sports cases in a style that sits somewhere on a spectrum between vaguely retro to full-blown reissue. I’m well aware that this isn’t … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The recent anniversary of the moon landing saw my Instagram feed explode with Speedmaster wrist shots, and an overwhelming number of watch brands releasing special edition watches to commemorate the event. But when the new Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition somehow beat the algorithm and made its way onto the top of my explore feed, I … ContinuedThe post A watch for C-3PO – the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In vintage Rolex collecting, what you see may not be what you get.
Time+Tide
It might surprise you to learn that one of my favourite watches from this year’s SIHH show was the Dazzling Rendez-Vous from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Rendez-Vous has been a strong women’s offering for some time, but this Dazzling version really ups the ante. This is thanks largely to that outer ring of 36 diamonds, which dominate … ContinuedThe post The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Last night, Longines went live with their online shopping facility, and I’ve spent a bit of time browsing what’s on offer. And it should come as no surprise that I’m pretty into the ‘heritage’ section of the site. And one watch, which I saw last year and was really taken by, is the … ContinuedThe post Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Longines introduces Master Moon Phase in stainless steel, in 40 and 42 mm in Taiwan.
Time+Tide
The greatest love stories basically go a little like this: lovers meet and instantly fall for each other, other forces separate them and they may never be together, then the lovers are reunited and all is well in the universe. This is also the basic story of John and his Panerai 177, which should indicate … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – John J and his Panerai 177 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s probably a bit generous to call me a ‘collector’, but as I continue on this journey, I’m discovering that I genuinely enjoy meaningful attempts by companies to do something different. In today’s expanded universe of microbrands and industry stalwarts, it can take a lot to stand out, but it takes even more to stand … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Seiko Prospex LX collection has finally hit Australian shores, so we thought we’d revisit this piece from Baselworld, where the design guru largely responsible for the look of the new line dropped some LX-oriented knowledge … Seiko’s Baselworld press conference is one of my few must-not-miss appointments, if only for a much-needed … ContinuedThe post 3 things you need to know about the Seiko Prospex LX collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Before we start, I feel I should apologise for the above headline. Only, I’m not sure if I should apologise to the Ramones or Girard-Perregaux. Perhaps both. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was reborn at SIHH 2017 - from humble mid-70s beginnings. Since then we’ve seen the sporty collection gradually expand to encompass all the usual complications … ContinuedThe post Hey! Ho! Laureato! Checking out Girard-Perregaux’s hot panda chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
On Wednesday night, Omega held a black tie bash in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing (and the small but significant role the Speedmaster played in it). It was one of the most impressive events I’ve attended in my time covering watches. But the ‘wow factor’ wasn’t due so much … ContinuedThe post Celebrating the moon, the moonwatch and the Apollo Missions with Omega and Charlie Duke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: In case you missed it, T+T HQ is located in Melbourne, which is currently rather cold. And one of the few things warming me up right now (because the office heater just isn’t cutting it) is the warm details on this funky Oris Chronoris, which, even though it’s a few years old, I … ContinuedThe post Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last night I went to see the new Quentin Tarantino film, Once Upon A Time In Hollywood, and while plot tension and A-grade acting kept me on the edge of my seat, I was kept guessing by what Brad Pitt’s character was wearing on his wrist. So what was Brad Pitt’s watch? As the movie … ContinuedThe post What was Brad Pitt’s watch in the latest Tarantino thriller? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: When we’re talking about fine watches, our eyes are typically drawn to Switzerland and (to a lesser extent) Germany and Japan. But occasionally you can find some quality closer to home. That was the case when the Creux Automatiq Ghost Explorer landed on my desk around this time last year. The quality (especially … ContinuedThe post Seeing ghosts with Creux Automatiq appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Brand boutiques are pretty fun spots to visit as a watch lover. Because, choice. And it may surprise you to learn that Tissot very nearly has a boutique for every single day of the year - 361, in fact, including this shiny new example in MidCity Shopping Centre in Pitt Street Mall. It will house by … ContinuedThe post The three watches that caught our eye at Australia’s first standalone Tissot boutique, located in the heart of Sydney CBD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A little while ago, someone on a FB watch group I’m part of asked what watch they should buy (out of three versatile, black-dialled tool watches), with one option being the Omega Railmaster. I didn’t have to think about my answer. It was the Railmaster. Hands down. Read on for my reasons why … ContinuedThe post All aboard the Omega Railmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the ’70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Former Australian Prime Minister Bob Hawke, who died in May this year, stands as one of the country’s most colourful - and beloved - political figures. He also enjoyed a particularly long tenure as PM, from March 1983 until December 1991, winning four elections as Labor leader. And while his political legacy includes the creation … ContinuedThe post Ever fancied owning a piece of Australian political history? How about Bob Hawke’s watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
I’m consistently on the hunt for vintage chronographs from these smaller brands, not just because they’re more attainable than their luxury brand siblings, but because they are interesting, rare, and varied in their aesthetics.
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