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How long a fully wound mechanical watch runs; 40h entry, 72h modern, 50d record.
Longines refreshes one of its most quietly interesting re-editions with a light blue opaline dial. Still 38mm, still the same central power-reserve rotating disc, still the silicon-hairspring L896.5. €3,950 on strap, €4,050 on bracelet.
Monochrome
A conundrum shared by watchmakers for centuries concerns the issue of constant force, or how to produce a steady, unwavering stream of power from the mainspring to the regulating organ to prevent rate variations and maintain amplitude consistency. The big question is how? Taking the bull by the horns, Girard-Perregaux tackled the dilemma with the […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Since their invention hundreds of years ago, watches and other timekeepers have had one consistent and implacable foe: magnetism. Magnetic fields are the arch-enemy of a watch’s ability to run reliably and accurately, as they can adversely affect the tiny metal parts in a traditional mechanical movement like the wheels, gears, and hairspring. The ill effects of magnetic fields on watches’ reliability first emerged as early as the 1920s, when electrical power became more ubiquitous in both homes and businesses, and the challenges for watchmakers have only multiplied in the years since. Today, we’re surrounded by magnetic fields in almost every area of our everyday lives, from microwave ovens and refrigerators to computers, cell phones, and electrical motors. The watch industry’s decades-long battle against magnetic fields, explored in greater detail in this article, has been a largely successful one, with the use of protective inner cages and non-ferrous movement components now commonplace. Omega, for example, makes watches with movements that can resist magnetism up to 15,000 gauss, as in the Railmaster watch shown above. However, most of us, at one time or another, have still experienced a situation in which a watch falls victim to being magnetized, and it can be a bit intimidating to figure out how to fix it. [toc-section heading="How to Tell if Your Watch is Magnetized"] A watch that has had its movement magnetized might be difficult to notice at first. It mig...
Teddy Baldassarre
In daily modern living, watches have been somewhat divorced from their original tool roots, usurped by the convenience and ease of the smartphones most of us carry around at all times. But there are certain situations in which a watch can rise to the occasion and offer a steadfast reliability that a phone with a dwindling battery life cannot, especially when there’s no power outlet in sight. Hiking, trekking, or generally going off the grid is the exact scenario I’m talking about. Today, I’m going to be breaking down options to find the best hiking watch for your next trip up a mountain (or for your next stay at a campground), with options at a range of price points, styles, and functions to help you find the best fit for you. Though I’m not a hiker by any means, watches, I do know. Down below, I’ve gathered up some of the best hiking watches on the market today that I would confidently recommend to any of my outdoorsy friends for their next trip into the great outdoors. [toc-section heading="Casio PRJB001B-2"] Case: 46mm Material: Resin Water Resistance: 100 meters Caliber: Tough Solar quartz Price: $180 I’m going to kick off this list with something a bit unconventional and with a whole lot of quirk, which also happens to be one of my favorites, with Casio’s PRJB001B-2. There are a lot of things going on here that I haven’t seen on any other field-oriented watches. Most notably, we have the super-unique strap, which combines a more traditional cloth b...
Fratello
Let’s be honest: dropping roughly €10k on a gold Nomos is a real commitment. Given the sought-after and intricate timepieces in that price level, a restrained watch with a focus on quality over flair is a power move. But the Tangente Neomatik in gold is one for Bauhaus connoisseurs. The use of gold may up […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Tangente Neomatik In Solid 18K Gold to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
In the wild world of watches, the words “affordable” and “complicated” are most often mutually exclusive. The more complicated a piece is, I think, the more we all brace ourselves to expect the correlation of a dramatic surge in price. It’s par for the course. But in recent years, there have been some watchmakers out there that have dared to do the unexpected, to bring high complications down to the realm of mortal purchasing power. As always, measuring affordability remains a personal conundrum, but there is no denying that there are now options for perpetual calendars, jump hours, and the like that are now paired with a more easily digestible price tag. In today’s guide, I’m tipping my hat to the various watch brands out there that have invested time and resources into leveling the playing field, crafting pieces of high horology that are more accessible than ever before. Across 10 pieces, we’re running the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is unique in its own way, and definitely worthy of your consideration if you’re looking for a complicated watch at a not-so-complicated price point. Christopher Ward Bel Canto Case: 41mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium Movement: Caliber FS01 Automatic Water Resistance: Price: Starts at $3,995 The only logical jumping off point for a guide such as this is with the watch that revolutionized haute-horology bells and whistles at an unheard-of price tag: the Bel Canto from British maker Christopher Ward. You’ve...
Teddy Baldassarre
When you think of Rolex, the first colors your mind usually conjures up are green and gold, long the emblematic colors of the Swiss power brand and its world-famous “crown” logo. (Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf is said to have settled on these colors because they symbolized wealth and success.) Blue, on the other hand, is not a color that most watch aficionados readily associate with Rolex, though many will associate it with other watch brands, like Breguet, Breitling, and Rolex’s own little brother, Tudor. However, when Rolex does decide to do blue - whether it’s for dials, bezels, or some combination of both - it does so in a way that really speaks to the brand’s avid fan base. Over the years, some blue-dialed Rolex watches, in fact, are not only popular but have become recognized as classics. Here are seven Rolexes with blue dials - some discontinued and collectible, others still available in the current collection - that have demanded enthusiast attention. (Price estimates for the discontinued models on the list are courtesy of WatchCharts.) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41, Ref. 126334 ($11,100) Rolex released the Datejust in 1945, and the model is today regarded as one of the world’s most classically elegant dress watches. The Datejust brought two now-familiar elements to the world of watch design, one of which can be found throughout the watch industry, the other being still closely associated with Rolex. The first was the addition of a date disp...
Monochrome
Have you ever wondered what it is like to drive a Porsche 911 GT3? I did! Of course, it’s the most powerful and driver-focused, naturally aspirated version of the legendary 911, and it is praised by everyone for its brutal power, magnificent driving capabilities and sheer fun. After eight years of driving a 911 Carrera […]
SJX Watches
The Seiko Collection 1 is the first commercial release from the brand’s revived Power Design Project. The look revisits the Tissé, one of many popular Seiko designs from the 1980s. A delicate watch on a beaded bracelet, it was a big hit in Japan. Four decades later, its spirit returns in a compact, unisex format designed to be worn loosely like jewellery. Designed by Yuya Suganuma, the Collection 1 debuts as a 500-piece limited edition in each of three colours, blending typical Seiko build quality with a playful, accessory-first design. Initial thoughts For much of the Swiss watch industry, the 1980s was an era marked by the painful triumph of quartz technology. But on the other side of the world, quartz pioneer Seiko was thriving. The brand’s catalogues of the era reflects the optimism of the moment with an astonishing number of interesting designs, many of which have been reimagined over the years; we’ll likely see more of them in the future. The Tissé was one such model, introduced as a ladies watch in 1984. A tiny watch on a beaded steel bracelet, the Tissé was designed to be worn loosely, and became a big hit in the home market. The Tissé was eventually discontinued, but the concept was reimagined in 2022 as part of the brand’s re-launched Power Design Project, an internal design initiative with the theme of “rebirth”. The watch that would become the Collection 1 drew attention for questioning traditional norms for wristwatch ergonomics. It was designe...
Teddy Baldassarre
If there is such a thing as a reigning “It-Girl” watch, the title is definitely won by none other than Cartier’s Panthère. This petite heavyweight has captured the hearts, minds, and wrists of pop culture icons and the general public since its original debut in the early 1980s, and its lasting power has proven to be perennial. On a personal note, it was also the first watch I really took notice of and fell in love with when first breaking into this wild hobby, and foundational to my own taste in watches. While some out there criticize it for being more jewelry than watch, there is a richer, more interesting story to back the Cartier Panthère up. Today, we’re plunging into the deep end of this It-Girl watch’s origin story, tracing its evolution over time, and pinpointing the key ingredients of this watch’s steadfast popularity and whether or not it really is the best Cartier watch for ladies. Cartier Panthère Context and History Image: Sotheby's Before we arrive at the birth of the It-Girl watch to end all It-Girl watches in the ‘80s, we must travel in our metaphorical time machine back further, all the way to 1913, the first year that the panther symbolism and imagery appeared in the Cartier universe. Quite fittingly, the story at hand also begins with an early 20th-century It-Girl in her own right, Jeanne Toussaint. George Barbier's 1913 "Dame à la Panthère" Born in 1887 in Belgium, Toussaint utilized her bold and vivacious personality to ascend modes...
Monochrome
Seven hundred and eleven horsepower… SEVEN hundred and eleven… Let that sink in for a moment. I’ll wait. With it, the 911 has come a very long way from the modest 130bhp of the very first ones. The mad scientists employed by Porsche have managed to squeeze a never-before-seen amount of power from the 911’s […]
Quill & Pad
Foudroyante, which is French for lightning bolt), chronographs have always been very rare because in measuring fractions of a second by driving a hand that rotates every second uses a lot of energy. With the Nano Foudroyante: Greubel Forsey has solved the inherent drawbacks in foudroyante chronographs by using nanotechnology to reduce power consumption by an incredible 1,800 times!
Fratello
Quartz movements took a next step when light started charging the power source. Tissot started using light as a “fuel” in 2014 when it introduced the T-Touch Expert Solar. This year, the brand from Le Locle presents the next technological step in the shape of the Lightmaster solar quartz movement. The movement is the heart […] Visit Behind The Scenes At Tissot: Inside The Light-Powered Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz to read the full article.
Monochrome
The year 1969 marked a before and after in watchmaking with the release of the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s El Primero calibre, a high-frequency integrated chronograph, was the first to cross the finish line. Initially used to power three models, the round A386, with its tri-colour counters, became the undisputed brand icon. In […]
Monochrome
For those lucky enough to experience the thrills of Ferrari’s mid-engined hybrid sports car, the 296 GTB, it seems no one would consider it down on power or a bit sluggish. It’s more likely the exact opposite, as the twin-turbo V6 engine in the back, assisted by a battery pack and electric motors, makes a […]
Monochrome
Dr Ludwig Oechslin has a talent for simplifying complications. Using the Bauhaus principle of “less is more”, his Ochs & Junior brand tackles complications with ingenious solutions and as few components as possible. The latest GMT model, aka the Due Ore Mese, ups the complexity and power of the earlier Due Ore. Packing a date […]
Worn & Wound
If you’ve ever attended Watches & Wonders (or any watch event, Windup Watch Fairs included) you’re probably familiar with the period of reflection that happens right after. It usually involves opening up the Photos app on your phone and scrolling through all the wrist shots you took. As you do this, thoughts about what you’ve just experienced fall into place, and the power of memory that watches are so adept at exploiting has its first and earliest chance to take hold. This year, waiting for my flight back to Boston to board, cycling through the many, many photos on my memory card and camera roll, I began to wonder if Parmigiani Fleurier had possibly “won” Watches & Wonders for me this year. By “winning” Watches & Wonders I don’t necessarily mean that they had the best watch (although they have one that’s in the running, for sure) but rather, as a brand, that they left the deepest impression on me. This was a somewhat surprising revelation, as, if I’m being honest, Parmigiani has frequently felt like the brand that I just didn’t quite get. Many of my peers in the watch media space gush about Parmigiani the way I advocate for Prometheus, a movie I firmly believe is an all-time classic but many insist is a major Ridley Scott misstep. I’ve always felt like I’m on the outside with Parmigiani. I kind of prefer the old design of the Tonda. The GMT Rattrapante is more clever than practical. And the sporty chronographs, to my eyes and on my wrist, lack ...
Monochrome
For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]
Deployant
Tissot presents the PRC 100 Solar. Anchored by its iconic dodecagonal bezel, it brings nature and technology together, transforming solar energy into limitless power. First introduced in the mid-2000s, the PRC 100 was recognised for its striking design, carving out its place in Tissot’s collection. Today, it returns with a pioneering Lightmaster Solar Quartz movement, harnessing photovoltaic energy to fuel every second.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. The Sigma BF: Minimalism Meets Photography This week Sigma announced a brand new camera, the BF, which is “stripped to the essence but packed with power” according to Sigma. In an age where every generation of cameras has more than the last, the BF stripped away everything they deemed unnecessary. Looking at the BF, you won’t find a normal grip, a hot shoe, or even an SD card slot, as the BF comes with 230GB of internal storage. The BF does feature a singular USB-C port, through which you can download your images and charge the camera, if you wish. The BF’s L mount allows for compatibility with many lenses, including 9 matching Sigma lenses. Apple’s Newest iPhone: The 16E Much like the Sigma BF, Apple’s newest iPhone, the 16E, offers consumers a minimalist and cheaper option among their current offerings. Maybe it’s better described as a “basic” iPhone, the 16E features a single camera, a 60hz display, and a cheaper price point, coming in at $599 for the 128gb model. While creating the 16E and removing certain features, Apple also decided to remove Magsafe, much to the dismay of many. Some fans may enjoy this new, simplistic offering, but as the Ver...
Hodinkee
Ten days of power, now in a 42mm case.
Time+Tide
Andrew and Justin hosted a night dedicated to the new blue dial Ingenieur Automatic 40 at IWC's Battersea Power Station boutique in London earlier this week.The post Andrew and Justin Hast host a night with the new blue dial IWC Ingenieur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuts the revamped Duometre line earlier this year, including the Duometre Chronograph Moon (and the entry-level Quantieme Lunaire). The watch incorporates almost every possible complication, some clever and others barely related, to create a chronograph that incudes a host of other simple functions, ranging from a day-night indicator to twin power reserves. Traditionally, the Duometre was centred on the chronograph, which makes this the line’s flagship model. It’s essentially an evolution of the first-generation model, retaining a chronograph mechanism that is compact and clever, but gains additional complications that feel extraneous. The platinum model gets a copper or “salmon” dial Initial thoughts The Duometre Chronograph Moon reflects many of JLC’s strengths, particularly as a movement maker. The movement inside is the sophisticated cal. 391 that makes logical use of the two-train construction to power a smartly designed chronograph mechanism. Visually, the movement is appealing and boasts quality, workmanlike finishing with details like a free-sprung balance and grande sonnerie-style winding clicks. Although it is industrial haute horlogerie, the calibre is clearly best in class. The cal. 391 Both barrels each sport grande sonnerie-style winding clicks But the cal. 391 is nearly identical to the cal. 380 found in the first-generation Duometre introduced in 2007. While it is an accomplished movement, the cal. 391 is hardly novel. Ins...
Fratello
These days, the focus seems to be on whopping power reserves and in-house calibers, with even mid-tier brands jumping on the bandwagon. But if you know your vintage watches, you’ll be aware of a time when everything wasn’t measured in the number of bridges, cogs, and pinions a brand produced by itself. In the car […] Visit The Peseux 7001 Revival: A Classy Hand-Wound Movement Returns To The Spotlight to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The oldest, continually-running sporting event in the world has seen some serious horological power over the years, these are our favourites.The post The best America’s Cup watches of the past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
MeisterSinger, famous for its single-hand display, continues to iterate on its signature design. Despite the limitation of a single-hand movement, the German brand has proven to be very creative and versatile. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has pleased watch enthusiasts with calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hours, power reserves, and more, all in its own style. This month MeisterSinger is back with the Special Edition №3 watches and bright blue accents.
Monochrome
MeisterSinger has made the single-hand time display its signature design feature, which some might view as limiting creativity. However, this German company has consistently proven otherwise. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has introduced various exciting series that incorporate calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hour displays, and power reserves, all while preserving the brand’s original spirit. Furthermore, MeisterSinger […]
Monochrome
If I were to say to you “British roadster”, what would come to mind? What image would you be thinking of almost instantly? That of an open-top, lightweight and nimble car with an appealing design and a front-mounted engine sending power to the rear wheels, surely. Cars like the MGB, the Lotus Elan, the Triumph […]
Time+Tide
This beefy yet innovative watch uses a complex six-barrel system that's wound by a typical automatic rotor to mechanically power LED backlights.The post Panerai’s innovative Submersible Elux LAB-ID features mechanical luminescence – without using a dynamo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
There’s no stopping the rise of small, independent brands hoping to secure a footing in the tricky world of watchmaking. While many fledgeling brands will pop up briefly and then fade into oblivion, we try to select brands with potential staying power. The latest to brave the scene is Anoma and its sculptural A1 watch […]
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