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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details Worn & Wound
Feb 4, 2025

MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details

Imagination is at the heart of any good spy story or thriller, and MKII seems to know that well; with their latest release, the Fulcrum 39, they’ve crafted a watch fit for a speculative undercover mission in the 1970s. A diver-style piece that favors practicality and class over more visually militarized counterparts, the Fulcrum 39 is designed to convey MKII’s “vision of the perfect tool watch”. The Fulcrum 39 is a revised and sized-down successor to MKII’s Fulcrum, originally released in 2013. Aptly named for its discreet 39.50mm case size, the Fulcrum 39 is a watch that could have been made for military and covert ops; MKII has crafted a sort of horological fiction with the watch’s design and heritage. While mainly inspired by timepieces issued to the United States Military in the Vietnam War era, the Fulcrum 39 also tags in elements of more civilian-oriented designs, hence the smaller case size and understated appearance. The idea of a watch with a grounded yet fictional background is unique and lends an air of hushed intrigue to the Fulcrum 39 that helps elevate it from just another dive watch to a very functional gear piece for a theoretical (or real) adventure.  With all these stylistic features in mind, the Fulcrum 39 is unmistakably a tool watch. It totes a 120-click unidirectional bezel, available in either 12-hour or 60-minute diver configurations, maximizing its utility as a dive watch-particularly when paired with its 200m water resistance. The b...

The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading Fratello
Feb 4, 2025

The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading

In the watch industry, people often toss around the term “gray market,” but they don’t always fully understand it. The gray market for watches refers to a network of unofficial sales channels through which sellers trade watches outside of the authorized distribution system. While this market is legal, it operates without the endorsement of the […] Visit The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading to read the full article.

Introducing – The Orient Bambino Flaunts New Dial Colours and Limited Editions for its 75th Anniversary Monochrome
Citizen as incontestable powerhouses However Feb 4, 2025

Introducing – The Orient Bambino Flaunts New Dial Colours and Limited Editions for its 75th Anniversary

If you ask about affordable Japanese mechanical watches, most people will cite Seiko and Citizen as incontestable powerhouses. However, Orient, another Japanese watch brand owned by the Seiko Epson Corporation, is a force to contend with when it comes to value for money. Founded in 1950, Orient is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year with […]

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches Fratello
Alpina Watches Alpina has been Feb 4, 2025

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches

Alpina has been on a roll lately. The Swiss watchmaker has been busy updating its collection with some great new models. While most of you will probably know the brand’s sports pieces, we have also seen some great watches inspired by its past, which goes back more than a century. Indeed, Alpina is a brand […] Visit Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches to read the full article.

First Look – The new Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Monochrome
Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Feb 4, 2025

First Look – The new Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

Piaget’s luxury sports watch, the Polo, is inspired by the brand’s iconic solid gold 1979 Polo quartz model with horizontal gadroons running across the dial and the integrated bracelet. Revamped from head to toe in 2016 in steel with mechanical movements, the Polo family is represented by complications small and large, from time and date […]

Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Fratello
Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Feb 4, 2025

Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

We’re just barely a month into 2025, and Piaget is already rolling out the big guns. The new Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase is a modern, sporty piece with movement typically reserved for a dress watch. Because of its exotic nature, this release won’t be for everyone, but it’s always fun to have a look! The […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase to read the full article.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

A refined addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage of a wide “V” containing double hairsprings for superior chronometry. Initial thoughts The Streamliner remains the most recognisable model in Moser’s lineup, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal. Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead a cross between a sports and dress watch. Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance (and is delivered with a green rubber strap). Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record. Burgundy gradient A standout feature is the fumé dial that’s made up of black and burgundy treat...

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH027 We reached Feb 3, 2025

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027

We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.  Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...

Introducing – The Fully-Lumed Porsche Design Chronograph 1 F.A.T. 2025 Edition Monochrome
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 F.A.T 2025 Feb 3, 2025

Introducing – The Fully-Lumed Porsche Design Chronograph 1 F.A.T. 2025 Edition

The connection between design studio and watchmaker Porsche Design and the automotive world is… obvious! Not only the company was founded by the man who, in 1964, designed the emblematic Porsche 911 – Mister Ferdinand Alexander “Butzi” Porsche – but most of its watches are inspired by either cars or elements of the 911. In […]

Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey Worn & Wound
Boldr Odyssey It isn’t Feb 3, 2025

Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey

It isn’t a hot take to say that tool watches tend to be formulaic. Afterall, there are only so many combinations of bezel formats, dial colors and hand styles out there. With new brands borrowing familiar cues and old brands iterating on their own designs, it’s easy to feel underwhelmed by the steady stream of near-identical releases. Oftentimes, I look at a new watch and wish the brand would do something, anything, to put their own spin on even a single component to stand out from the crowd. Well, BOLDR heard my pleas with the newest iteration of their popular Odyssey diver ($799).  And they didn’t just put their own spin on one component… they spun them all. After I unboxed the sky-blue “Horizon” variant, I spent a solid 10 minutes rolling it around in my hands, taking in all the unexpected details. I noticed the funky gear-shaped crown, the translucent dial that reveals the entire date wheel, the unique dual-stripe hands, a shaped date window, and the seemingly never ending cascading angles that make up the aggressive case shape. Just when I thought I’d taken it all in, I turned the watch over to be surprised by an embossed whale on a display caseback. We will get to all those details (including the whale) soon, but first, let’s cover the basics of this far-from-formulaic GMT. The Watch The bold watch with blue accents that kept surprising me is part of BOLDR’s expanded Odyssey collection. Differentiating itself from their more subdued offerings, the ...

Just Because – Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl. the Nautilus Moonphase 5712A, and Some Predictions for its Future Monochrome
Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl Feb 3, 2025

Just Because – Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl. the Nautilus Moonphase 5712A, and Some Predictions for its Future

Models come and go from brands’ portfolios. There’s nothing extraordinary in this, it’s just standard practice and lifecycle management. Rolex, for example, did it last year with the Yacht-Master II Regatta Chronograph (not necessarily a bad idea…) Patek Philippe is no stranger to this concept, as we’ve seen in the past – basically every year, […]

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Grand Seiko’s Feb 3, 2025

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9

Grand Seiko’s latest release, the Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 SLGH027 Limited Edition, is all about the textured dial as is typical of the brand. Inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, a volcano that’s near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop, the radial dial motif is more deeply textured than earlier iterations of the “Mount Iwate” pattern. The rest of the watch is typical of the Evolution 9 “SLGH” model – a high-frequency automatic movement inside a Zaratsu-finish case in from Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary alloy with superior corrosion resistance and a brighter finish than conventional steel. Initial thoughts Of the many Grand Seiko dials, the new Mount Iwate motif stands out. While the latest dial shares the same radial style as the earlier “Mount Iwate” pattern, found on the Tentagraph SLGC001 amongst others, the dial of the SLGH027 has a deeper texture and more pronounced grooves, giving it an elevated aesthetic that is more striking. With so many variants, Grand Seiko’s textured dials are a little cliche at this point, but there is no denying that the watches are still impressively crafted and offer strong value, rivalling the strongest Swiss competition (except in terms of the bracelet). At US$10,500, the SLGH027 is priced similarly to equivalent prior models. While it is substantially more expensive than the average time-and-date Grand Seiko, the price is justified by the top-of-the-line cal. 9SA5, as well as the excellent case and dial wor...

Hands-On: The Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 Amsterdam Limited Edition - Celebrating 750 Years Of The City Fratello
Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic Feb 3, 2025

Hands-On: The Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 Amsterdam Limited Edition - Celebrating 750 Years Of The City

What is Amsterdam famous for? Exactly - the city’s canals. Oh, sorry, were you saying something else? Well, that’s also correct, but it’s not the answer I was looking for. I understand it, though. The district you were referring to in the city center is associated with red, the color that shines brightly in the […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 Amsterdam Limited Edition - Celebrating 750 Years Of The City to read the full article.

Introducing – The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition, now in Blue Monochrome
Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Feb 3, 2025

Introducing – The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition, now in Blue

Hamilton’s US chapter is marked by its legendary field watches for the US Army, interpreted in the popular Khaki line, and its impressive amount of Hollywood screen debuts. On the horological front, perhaps the most exciting moment in Hamilton’s history took place in Switzerland, where it participated in the race to develop the world’s first […]

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Feb 3, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition

Today, Grand Seiko introduces the SLGH027 “Mountainscape,” a limited-edition watch celebrating the brand’s 65th anniversary. The piece features the automatic Hi-Beat 9SA5 caliber, which debuted in 2020. As part of the Evolution 9 collection, this watch is not retro at all but a modern reference with stunning details. Grand Seiko always has a strong start […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.

Insight: The Chronograph Reset Mechanism SJX Watches
Breitling B01 movement Feb 3, 2025

Insight: The Chronograph Reset Mechanism

Continuing with our series focused on the mechanical chronograph – we already explained the vertical and horizontal chronograph clutches, along with the advantages and shortcomings of each – we now turn to another vital component but rarely discussed: the chronograph reset mechanism. While the clutch enables energy transmission between the base movement and chronograph, it plays no role in returning the chronograph indicators to a zeroed position. This is accomplished by an altogether separate mechanism that is synchronised with the clutch action but functions independently. The reset mechanism indexes all the chronograph indicators (hours, minutes, and seconds) back to the zero position, and keeping them securely in place until the chronograph is started once again. Any reset mechanism generally comprises of two main components: a heart cam and reset hammer. The two interact based on clever geometry and illustrates mathematics is often the underlying basis of watchmaking, or more specifically, movement construction. The chronograph works of a Breitling B01 movement, with the reset heart cams (12, 13, and 17) in purple. Image – Breitling patent The heart cam Named after its distinctive outline, the heart cam is a seemingly simple component that is in fact the product of some ingenious engineering. While the cam has a turning axis and is a rotational system – in other words, it revolves on a fixed axis – a clear analogy can be made with linear systems. In order to...

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Feb 3, 2025

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027

Following the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, with a new generation of mechanical and Spring Drive movements in 2020, Grand Seiko released a watch that will become a hit, the White Birch SLGH005. With its impressive dial, newly designed case and innovative movement, the watch made quite an impression… So much so that it […]