Deployant
Our six best recommendations for a watch with perpetual calendar
Its time for us to update our recommendations for the perpetual calendar category. Here are our best 6 picks from watches released since 3Q 2022.
Results for Day-Date
9,258 articles · 221 videos found · page 269 of 316
Related pages
Wiki · Guide
President Bracelet
Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
Wiki · Guide
Stella Dial Rolex
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Reference · Guide
All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Rolex Day-Date 40 Rolex
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 21 mm, Cal. 3255
Deployant
Time+Tide
Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days
While the numbers reveal many of you love luxury timepieces, there is an equal, if not larger, interest in more budget-friendly watches – this is especially true within the daily wearer segment. As much as people romanticise the idea, not everyone is comfortable getting down and dirty with a pricey watch on their wrist. While … ContinuedThe post Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Flieger Watches: A Brief History and 14 Modern Fliegers from Entry-Lev
“Flieger” is the German word for “flier” - contrary to what you may have read elsewhere, it’s not the direct translation of “pilot” (that would actually be “pilot”) - and if you’re a traveler visiting Germany, it’s a helpful word to know, as it helps to understand other related terms: German airlines call their flights “flugs” and Germany calls its airports “flughafens.” Flieger is also the term that’s been widely adopted as shorthand for a specific style of pilot’s watch - one that traces its origins to World War II and which is still popular among an avid group of watch enthusiasts today. Flieger watches trace their origins to a type of timekeeper developed in the 1930s for German military aviators called the B-Uhr, short for Beobachtungs-Uhren, which translates to “observation watches.” B-Uhr watches, the first of which were property of the German government rather than the Luftwaffe pilots who wore them, adhered to strict specifications. Their cases were enormous for a wrist-borne watch at the time, at 55mm in diameter, and they accordingly housed movements that were originally made for pocket watches. These movements all incorporated the mission-critical hacking seconds function and were protected from magnetism by soft iron inner cages to ensure their functionality in an airplane cockpit. The dials were designed to be ultra-readable, with large white Arabic numerals on an expansive black background and flame-blued, luminou...
Time+Tide
Swatch x Blancpain collab has debuted. But will it have the same lasting momentum as the MoonSwatch?
Well, considering the big launch yesterday I think we all know what the news of the week is: the new Swatch x Blancpain BioCeramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection. The Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch was a groundbreaking collaboration. Upon its debut, not only did it shake up watch enthusiasts, it also affected the mainstream. Genuine collectors … ContinuedThe post Swatch x Blancpain collab has debuted. But will it have the same lasting momentum as the MoonSwatch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
My Grandpa’s Casio
Watches are funny little things, aren’t they? These wonderful relics of artful ingenuity remain with us for decades, reminding us of where we’ve been, and who we’ve been there with. Many of you all, I’m sure, have a watch that once belonged to a loved one. Your pops’ Rolex; your grandparents’ pocket watch. You treasure it-it either adorns your wrist every day, or it sits in a protective box on display or tucked away. Wherever it is, I want you to get it. I want you to hold it in your hand right now; and if not a watch, hold that thing that remains from a loved one lost. You got it? Good. Please keep it in hand while I tell you about my grandpa (Frank Lavista) and the Casio he left behind. About a year and a half after my grandpa passed I was sitting with my grandma, sipping espresso and groaning my way through an episode of Days of Our Lives. When, at 2pm, I heard a little wristwatch alarm from her bedroom. I’d heard it a few times before and paid it no mind, as after a minute it stopped beeping anyway. But today I wanted to know why my grandma had a watch alarm going off everyday. She said, “it’s grandpa’s watch,” as if he were still here. “You can have it if you want,” snapping the reality back. I went into her bedroom, and saw the Casio W96H-1BV sitting atop the dresser. A practical watch for a practical, and stingy, person. My grandpa rarely splurged, and never bothered with little inconveniences like changing watch batteries. When the b...
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 05 for a Week on the Wrist: How it Measures Up - Reprise
Bell & Ross turns its aviation watch “DNA” toward the urban man. Chris Malburg spent a week with the BR 05 with gray dial in stainless steel and has a lot to say about this everyday city-dweller’s timepiece.
Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It
Doomsday preppers and the most hardcore of watch collectors are in for a real treat. German watch manufacturer Laco is doubling down on the success of its Atacama.2 by introducing the Atacama Quarz UTC. It’s a more affordable and focused watch with a new trick up its sleeve: GMT functionality. Primarily known for their excellent pilot watches, Laco has collaborated closely with German soldiers, firefighters, and other action-oriented professionals to hone their “Squad and Sport” timepieces. It only takes a glance to understand. You can learn a lot about this watch in its name. It’s still an Atacama, which means it shares the same PVD-coated treatment, date complication, rubber strap, unidirectional bezel, and matte dial as the Atacama.2. But now it’s powered by quartz, “Quarz” in German, and features an independent GMT – or UTC – hand. The new watch is 46mm in diameter, but the Ronda 515 GMT quartz movement inside has enabled Laco to slim the watch down to 10.5mm with a “contact area” of just 34mm. This is also in part due to the conical shape of the case, allowing the watch to feel much smaller and comfortable on the wrist than its maximum diameter may suggest. The use of black PVD-coating and generous amounts of lume on the hands, dial, and bezel result in a watch that is supremely legible to its wearer while remaining subdued to would-be onlookers (or enemies). The crown at twelve o-clock is integrated into and protected by the articulating lugs. D...
Worn & Wound
H. Moser Collaborates with MB&F; for Only Watch Stunner Pandamonium Streamliner
Earlier this summer, Only Watch revealed their 2023 collection of watches set to be auctioned later this year in Geneva to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy and neuromuscular diseases. Participating brands from across the industry create unique, on-off watches (or clocks), some of which you can read about right here, and a few even took the opportunity to collaborate. While most of the watches were revealed, a few brands play things a little closer to the vest. One such collaboration was revealed this week during Geneva Watch Days, with Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan introducing the H. Moser x MB&F; Streamliner Pandamonium. These two brands have a history working together, and tout a creative relationship that has given us co-signed watches in the past within MB&F;’s Legacy Machine collection, and H. Moser’s Endeavour collection. Their latest effort builds on themes we’ve seen them explore in the past, done in entirely new ways, within the H. Moser Streamliner. The watch is called the Streamliner Pandamonium, and it features a unique, one-off movement that sets a minute repeater around MB&F;’s flying buttress, with the hammers of the chiming mechanism being ‘operated’ by a small, hand-crafted panda DJ figure. You can also get a read on the time via the hands set around the 2 o’clock position, similar to the execution on the LM101 done with H. Moser. The case is rendered in steel for its resonating qualities, and is sized at 42mm in...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie
Audemars Piguet turned to an unorthodox material for its latest striking timepiece, the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in black ceramic. Introduced in two variations, one with white gold markers and the other with baguette-diamond indices, the monochromatic new reference is the next step in this historic brand’s long history of chiming watches. Initial thoughts Overall, this is an excellent update to a watch that was already very good. The original Royal Oak Supersonnerie is entirely in titanium, a lightweight metal with good acoustic qualities, and has very subtle aesthetics with a smoked grey dial. In contrast, the new all-black ceramic repeater feels more modern and in-line with what we have come to expect from Audemars Piguet, especially for the Royal Oak that has always been available in unconventional materials ranging from carbon composite to BMG. The inherent contradiction of an extremely expensive striking watch in a material not usually suited for transmitting sound is obvious. Yet it is also logical since it demonstrates the function of the brand’s proprietary Supersonnerie amplifying system that arguably transcends the case material. The titanium Supersonnie strikes loud and clear, but we have yet to hear the ceramic repeater strike in real life. It would certainly be interesting to have them both side-by-side to compare. While the brand already has several Royal Oak models with bracelets in ceramic, the new repeater is debuted only on a rubber s...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Bethesda Premieres Starfield Live Action Trailer, The James Brand puts a Spin on a Modern Classic, an Under-The-Radar Leica, & More
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Bethesda Software Bethesda Premieres Starfield Live Action Trailer Via Bethesda Software We haven’t been shy about sharing our excitement for the highly-anticipated sci-fi, intergalactic RPG, Starfield. Earlier this year, we got a glimpse of Bethesda’s gem during the Xbox Showcase where they displayed the stunning gameplay visuals allowing the player to explore over 1,000 planets spread across 100 star systems. The vast amount of player-interaction is mind-boggling and the game already promises a dynamic gamer experience charged with planetary exploration and exhilarating spaceship dogfighting. There’s no shortage in details and every aspect of the game seems well-thought out. Especially the protagonist’s bespoke digital watch, dubbed the Chronomark, which we also covered here on WSG a couple years back – yes, we’ve been anxiously awaiting that long. With the launch date on the horizon, Bethesda Software has released a full-on live action trailer that encompasses everything we’ve been animated about. With breathtaking views, an inspiring orchestral s...
Worn & Wound
Celebrating 25 Years of the Sinn 356
Sinn is a cult brand with a unique quality (ok, several) – each of their watches also has a cult following. Are you a 556-head? A U1 kind-of-guy? No? How about a 103-fiend? Or, do you like the 70s vibe of the 144 the most? No matter what, there’s a Sinn line you can geek out over, as over the years each line has had several to dozens of variations and special editions created under it. But, there’s been one model that has felt somewhat ignored over the last several years. A line that is actually a bit of a favorite around at Worn & Wound and on my perennial “someday I’ll pick one up” list – the 356, Sinn’s most compact automatic chronograph. At 38.5 x 46mm for a long, long time, the 356 was one of the smallest automatic, or even mechanical, chronographs you could find for a reasonable price. Powered by the venerable Valjoux 7750, it blended a classic military pilot chronograph layout, one that pulled from Type 20s and the like, with a case that felt more like a field watch in its size and stripped-down appearance. The result was rugged, understated, and altogether charming. Check out our review from 2014. While variations of the 356 exist or have existed, including different crystal options, a stunning model with a salmon stamped-guilloche dial, and an elusive 12-hour UTC model, it’s not a line that has gotten much attention recently. This is why today’s announcement, celebrating the 25th anniversary of the 356 with three new models, is so exciting. To ...
Worn & Wound
Launching 9/5 - A New Brew x Worn & Wound Limited Edition
Normal is boring. Normal is not original. Normal is never pushing boundaries. People are not normal. People are unique. People are all limited editions of one. A new Brew x Worn & Wound Limited Edition is launching Tuesday, September 5th at 12pm ET. Mark your calendars as it’s not going to be a normal day. The post Launching 9/5 – A New Brew x Worn & Wound Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is one of the Strangest Releases of the Year
Geneva Watch Days, like any big trade event in the watch industry, means a cluster of brands with new releases, all vying for the attention of the public, and of watch media. The “novelties” that are unveiled during these things are often just that, in the sense that these new releases are perhaps not representative of what a brand will usually produce. They are meant to grab headlines, start conversations, and garner immediate reactions. They’re novel. This year, Doxa showed us that they know how to play the game, with a new watch that quickly became a hot topic all over Watch Internet: the SUB 300β Sharkhunter. What we have here is a SUB 300 in a black ceramic case with 18K gold accents on the bezel and crown. No Doxa has ever expressed this particular kind of understated nightlife vibe ever before, for better or worse. Doxa seems to be leaning into it – their press copy says this watch was built to defy dress codes. Now, I’m an American, an elder millennial, and I feel like I’ve been defying dress codes for as long as I’ve been a functioning adult (I’ve been told we killed Business Casual – you’re welcome). But for some, subverting a dress code might be a serious transgression, and for them, Doxa has a watch made just for you. The strange thing about the SUB 300β Sharkhunter, beyond the fact that this is a Doxa with solid gold components, a rare occurrence but not unheard of, is the visual impression of the dial. This watch, believe it or not, ha...
Worn & Wound
A Flipper’s Journey
Since the article on my 50th birthday watch was published, I have been asked multiple times how I got into flipping watches. To best understand this, you must better understand me. I am an only child of a mother who was the youngest of 10 children and a father who was the youngest of 4. Both were born in the depression (1935 and 1929) and lived through WWII with siblings having fought in that war. My mother’s family was from Quebec City, and they lived in a rural area outside the city, with very little creature comforts. My father was from Montreal and fared a little better, having grown up in a middle-class family setting. However, times were hard, and both learned how to stretch a dollar and loathed excessive spending. I on the other hand grew up in Montreal in a comfortable middle-class neighborhood. While we never really struggled for anything, I was still brought up as if we could not afford much. So, if I wanted something, I had to get creative. I quickly realized that if I wanted a toy that I did not have, I could trade something I did have to get what I wanted. I did this with Star Wars toys, GI Joe, Transformers and later on with comic books and Atari games. The author, with an unknown gift and watch on wrist, Christmas 1978 I remember when Walkman portable cassette players were super popular, my mother managed to finagle one using her Club Z points from Zellers. This was the equivalent of K-Mart in Canada and Club Z was the original loyalty plan. It was s...
Time+Tide
The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package
For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE
The Ressence Type 3 collection welcomes a new member this week with the introduction of the serene Type 3 EE. The brand continues to work in subtle and interesting green hues, following up on the sage Type 8S (reviewed here) with this rich eucalyptus green dial. It’s a slightly unconventional execution within the more dramatic Type 3 collection, which we’ve only seen rendered in black and soft white up to this point. In person, the green is a perfect companion to the Type 3’s primary accent colors and rotating dial sets. Given the case it’s set within, that green is given an oil filled canvas for maximum impact. The Type 3 is one of two oil filled Ressence watches, along with the “world-proof” dive watch, the Type 5. The effect is remarkable in person, and one that I’ve always found core to the Ressence experience. The Type 3 EE features the eucalyptus green on both the font and back panel of the watch (hence the EE), and comes through brilliantly, as though it were painted directly on the crystal, thanks to the oil filled dial. The color is subtle but rich, somehow, and the colors used for the various displays have been desaturated enough to hit the same value scale as the green itself, so as not to create a distracting level of contrast. The Type 3 is on the maximalist side of Ressence, boasting the oil temperature gauge, a dial for the day of the week, and the date itself, on top of the hours, minutes, and seconds, of course. It all leads to a rather dra...
Quill & Pad
Evolution of Social Media Watch Photographs Part 3: Storytelling, Collaboration, and a Bunch of Boobs
It’s already time for the latest update in GaryG`s series of articles providing a completely subjective, unscientific, and unofficial history of watch photographs online. The big trend he has recently seen is the emergence of storytelling as a dominant theme in how watches are displayed. And while he lauds the rise to prominence of many more women among the population of online watch shooters and commentators, the emergence of boob shots with a watch hardly "empowers women" . . . or does it?
Worn & Wound
Bravur Releases the La Vuelta III, the Third and Final Leg in their 2023 Grand Tour Series
This past weekend, the cycling world turned its attention to Spain for the start of the Vuelta a España. One the most prestigious Grand Tours, the Vuelta takes riders through the Pyrenees as they race towards Madrid over the course of 23 days. At the end of the race, which consists of 21 day-long stages, the rider with the lowest aggregate time is crowned the winner and wears the famous red jersey. While the watch world is often linked to motorsports, we have seen meaningful partnerships with cycling as of late. To commemorate the start of this year’s Vuelta, Sweden-based Bravur Watches has released its third and final addition to the Grand Tour chronograph series, the La Vuelta III. Housed in a 38.2mm (46.3mm lug-to-lug) PVD-coated stainless steel case, the new Vuelta III really leans into using red accents to both pay homage to the Vuelta lead jersey and establish a distinct aesthetic. The subdials – seconds at nine, hours at six, and minutes at three o-clock – are framed in red and recessed in a lower layer, as is the triangle at twelve o-clock (which Bravur says represents the flag at 1 km remaining). In another nod to cycling, the red band around the edge of the dial is subtly textured to resemble racing tires. Inside beats the Sellita SW511, an automatic chronograph movement that features Côte de Genéve and perlé decoration, rhodium plating, and heated blue screws. Owners can full-send on the red theme by pairing the watch with a red rubber strap or pare ...
![[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/AstorBank_20ATM_007.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks
Watches aren’t exactly a practical necessity these days, and while that element certainly still appeals to some of us, there’s generally something deeper at work that’s provided them with the staying power they’ve enjoyed for the past few decades. We like the way they look and feel, as well as appreciate the mechanical artistry at work under the hood. Further still, we attach stories and experiences to these objects that imbue them with personal meaning and significance to us, many of which we do our best to explore and share in these very pages. Recording and preserving these experiences is the motivation behind a new outfit called Matter of Time, who have teamed up with Astor+Banks to create a run of watches meant to do just that. Matter of Time is a “purpose-driven club” that works a little differently than you might expect. Members are allowed to purchase watches created for the club given they agree to two stipulations: “The member will share and document special experiences on [the Matter of Time website] that they had with the watch through their life together and 2. Within two years, that watch will be given away. Not sold, but given away to recognize somebody’s good deed, effort or accomplishment.” Additionally, 50% of the proceeds of every collection go to a charitable cause. The first effort from Matter of Time is a collaboration with Astor+Banks on the Founder’s Collection. The watch, which is based on the Fortitude, takes inspiration fr...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mount a Unique Watch in a Custom Rolls-Royce
Today, Vacheron Constantin has announced a specially commissioned piece by the Les Cabinotiers workshop, the Armillary Tourbillon conceived for the coach-built Rolls-Royce Amethyst Droptail. Designed in collaboration with a client of both the watch brand and carmaker, the double-axis tourbillon pocket watch is mounted on the wood-panelled dash of the one-of-a-kind coupe that reputedly cost about €25 million. The Amethyst Droptail. Image – Rolls-Royce. Initial thoughts While the watch itself is interesting considering the movement (though it existed in wristwatch form already), perhaps the most noteworthy part of this watch is the collaboration between two establishment brands. Obviously, such a coming-together would never have been possible if it wasn’t for the owner who is known to be the biggest client of Rolls-Royce. In fact, it is also believed that the very same client just completed a very similar project with Rolls-Royce and Audemars Piguet, which created a removable Royal Oak Concept Chronograph mounted in the dash the La Rose Noire Droptail (and word has it that there are two more Droptails on the way for the same owner). The Audemars Piguet unique piece that was created for the owner’s other coach-built Droptail. Image- Rolls-Royce. La Rose Noire Droptail. Image – Rolls-Royce It is great to see commissions such as this being carried out by companies like Vacheron Constantin, which given its success and size could easily pass on such requests. The brand...
Worn & Wound
Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2
Timex takes their relationship with Giorgio Galli a step further with a new iteration of the series called, naturally, the GGS2. The new watch retains much of the drama of the S1 (which our Ed Jelley reviewed here), but ramps up the minimal nature of the design language with a near sterile black dial set within one of the most unique cases you’re likely to find under $1,000. As with all of the Timex Giorgio Galli watches, there’s plenty to appreciate in the small details, and with even fewer components brought to the table here, those details matter all the more. The S2 is chic on the exterior, and this time, gains a bit of Swiss cache on the inside. The S2 sets the stage for a new generation of Giorgio Galli watches from Timex, revealed in its most elemental form here that is easy to imagine spawning additional variations. The all black dial set under a sapphire crystal is framed by a single applied ring that hosts a notch for each hour of the day. It’s a stark scene but everything that’s there makes a big impact. The structure of that ring is subtle, but it’s mirrored in the hand-set in both design and tone. Only the word Timex appears at the top of the dial, while the Giorgio Galli and S2 Automatic labels are relegated to the bottom of that ring ring structure. While the dial has certainly evolved, the case retains its signature injection-molded skeleton execution with titanium inserts for the movement and caseback. It’s a bit exotic feeling and sets this ...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Teams Up with Designer Matthew Williams
Four new Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models have been announced, along with one unique piece that make up this latest collaboration. With a mixture of yellow gold, white gold and two-tone, all pieces are co-branded with Audemars Piguet and 1017 ALYX 9SM, Matthew Williams’ own brand, on the dial and rotor. Initial thoughts It’s nice to see collaborations like this taking place. When someone with the fashion and design pedigree of Matthew Williams enters the watch space, it is always worth taking note, as they are bound to bring a fresh and unique perspective. However, here it would seem he has just taken the designs he previously made with MAD Paris and asked Audemars Piguet to make them instead. The only visual difference being that the original ones had circular brushed dials, whereas these are vertically brushed. While the variety of case size and metal is appreciated, it is clear that these designs are not original with perhaps the only real difference being that the date window has been removed from the standard Royal Oak. Having the same aesthetic treatment applied across the time-only Royal Oak, chronograph Royal Oak and Offshore is nice to see, making this a cohesive collection. And the unique piece carries pleasing contrasts with the two-tone case and dark, PVD-coated dial giving a look that seems fitting for the streetwear-savvy Williams. There has been no communication on the price of these pieces, nor how many are set to be produced. All we can be sure ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44
Just a few short weeks ago, Vero introduced their officially-licensed Smokey the Bear watches that were inspired not only by the bear himself, but the era in which he came into existence. Today, we’re taking a look at the Smokey ’44. It’s inspired by the military watches of the 1940s, blended with a wildfire-themed color palette and a depiction of the friendly-but-stern bear right at 12 o’clock on the dial. This officially-licensed piece of Smokey swag is a great representation of both Vero as a brand and what Smokey the Bear stands for. Vero isn’t all talk either, being that 10% of all sales go directly back to the US Forest Service for conservation efforts. Let’s take a closer look, and remember - only you can prevent wildfires. $450 Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44 Case Stainless steel Movement Seiko NH38A automatic Dial Black, textured Lume Green SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Leather + canvas Water Resistance 120 meters Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 12mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty 10 years Price $450 Case Clocking in at a comfortable 38mm, the case of the ’44 wears really well on my 6.75” wrist. There’s nothing overly notable about the case, and I say that in a good way. It’s a straightforward field watch with a sturdy case that inspires confidence that it’ll stand up to whatever you want to throw at it. With 120m of water resistance, the ’44 has more than enough protection from H2O for a swim and then some. I like how Vero c...
Teddy Baldassarre
What Was the First Wristwatch?
It says a lot about the cultural impact of wristwatches that it seems to many of us as if they’ve been around forever, and in fact, there are watchmaking brands that can trace their history back two centuries or more; a handful are even older than the United States. Watches worn on the wrist, however, are a more recent phenomenon, at least for the general public, and while men make up the majority of serious wristwatch collectors and aficionados these days, women were the trendsetters of the style, wearing timepieces on their wrists nearly 100 years before gentlemen adopted them into their wardrobe. So who made the first wristwatch (for men and for women) and how did the wristwatch win over a male populace that at first considered them hopelessly effete? Our story begins in early 19th-Century France, with one of horological history's leading luminaries. First wristwatch (1810): Breguet No. 2639 for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 - 1823, above) was a native of Neuchâtel, Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris and who today is regarded as one the most important figures in the history of timekeeping. Among Breguet’s many innovations were the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the tourbillon escapement. But perhaps the most influential contribution Breguet made to the evolution of timekeeping wa...
Worn & Wound
Out of Office: The Wandering Bezel of the Seiko Land Tortoise
Tool watches are, as the name suggests, utilitarian by design. When I bought an SRPG13, the green Seiko Land Tortoise with a compass bezel, I thought I was purchasing yet another tool watch with practical non-timekeeping functionality. After an overnight family backpacking trip, I’m not convinced my field watch is the useful tool I tried to force it to be. The Land Tortoise is a tool watch- in the sense that it’s technically capable of tasks beyond displaying the time. True North can be found with any analog watch by pointing the hour hand at the sun, bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the sun to find South, and then locating the opposite point to identify North. A compass bezel is an enhancement that allows the wearer to mark North after finding it. This summer our family of four is section hiking the entire Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail; A 50 mile peak to peak path through New Hampshire’s backcountry. What better place to put this tool to the test than on the first section of the trip? The day before our first overnight section, as I organized gear, sprawling out sleeping pads, a tent, trekking poles and various knick-knacks across our living room floor, I made sure to put on the SRPG13. I pictured standing on a mountain top, getting the kids set up with a celebratory lunch, lining up the hour hand, and then bisecting with ease. With a real compass in my pack, I was excited to check my accuracy. Two miles away and 2000 feet above the parking lot whe...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Gets Colorful with the High Frequency Defy 21 Chroma II
It’s been said over and over again, on podcasts, in our posts, reviews, DMs, and private conversations: Zenith is effectively unmatched in their ability to straddle the line between their history and a forward looking, contemporary design language. Heritage focused models like the various Defy Revival releases that we’ve seen in recent years recreate the original watches they’re based on to a fastidious, almost obsessive degree, while releases on the other end of the spectrum are unapologetically modern in their materials, design cues, and ethos. Today, Zenith releases a pair of watches that find themselves in the latter camp, part of a platform that continues to evolve and exist as a showcase for the brand’s most adventurous ideas. The Defy 21 chronographs have one of my personal favorite watch industry tricks up their sleeve. It’s an ultra high-frequency chronograph capable of measuring down to the hundredth of a second, a level of accuracy that frankly outpaces the fine motor skills of just about anyone who will operate it. But that’s (somewhat) beside the point. When you push the “start” button on one of these things, and see the second hand whip around the dial at a speed that’s frankly somewhat frightening if you’re used to chronos that operate at a traditional pace, it’s kind of intoxicating. Even if you’re been around watches a long time, it’s hard to synthesize that what you’re seeing is the result of springs, gears, and wheels operat...
Worn & Wound
Hanhart’s Elegant Pioneer Silva is an Exercise in Refined Simplicity
Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt. To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models. The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...
Time+Tide
MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet
When you’re contemplating buying a watch that is so clearly an homage to an established model, you have to be absolutely sure that you’re getting your money’s worth. There’s no shortage of watches which look like a Rolex just to make quick sales, but the Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT Automatic 1250M is … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
20 Affordable GMT Watches for Budget-Conscious Travelers
Of all the different types of complicated timepieces, watches with a GMT or second-time-zone function are among the most useful in everyday life, especially for those of us who travel frequently, do long-distance business in other parts of the world, or some combination of both. Until relatively recently, if you wanted such a watch with a traditional mechanical movement (as opposed to a digital or quartz option), you could expect to pay a fairly hefty price for it. Fortunately, a growing number of watch brands - large and small, well-established as well as plucky newcomers - have started to make GMT watches that are attainable for newer, less affluent aficionados while also being robustly built and thoughtfully designed. In this article, we spotlight 20 of these affordable GMT watches, in ascending order of MSRP, all of which fall under the $2,000 threshold. (If you’re interested in a broader look at the GMT watch category, and might be convinced to spend a bit, or a lot, more, check out our original list of the best GMT watches.) Under $1,000: Timex Q Timex GMT Price: $229, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Always known for its value proposition, mass-market Timex has also gotten onto the radar of vintage-watch fans in recent years by reproducing some of its cult-favorite historical models, seeking out the sweet spot between historical flair, modest dimensions, and great pricin...
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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors
I’ll leave the novelty recap to our upcoming Last Week in Watches column, and there will certainly be a ton of news to come with Geneva Watch Days on the horizon, so below are some watch world headlines you may have missed this week. Tudor openes new boutique in Brisbane with The Hour Glass Tudor, in partnership … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.