23,133 articles · 2,461 videos found · page 284 of 854
Monochrome
Founded in 1902 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Schwarz Etienne is an independent watchmaking brand that often flies under the radar yet holds incredible potential. In particular, it boasts a surprisingly high level of vertical integration, producing not only its own watches but also cases or movements. As Watches & Wonders 2025 and its parallel events approach, […]
SJX Watches
Whimsical and graceful in the typical Hermès style, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune and Arceau Le Temps Voyageur are both unusual takes on familiar complications; the two were incidentally conceived with the aid of Chronode, a complications specialist. Hermès has reworked the palette for both models, most notably with a two-tone case for the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune. This returns as a set of three watches, each featuring a dial made of a specific type of meteorite, namely Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech. All three are housed in a 43 mm case with contrast-colour lugs. The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, on the other hand, is offered separately in two guises: 41 mm in white gold, or 38 mm in rose gold with diamonds. The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune three-piece set Initial thoughts Among Hermès’ whimsical complications, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune stands out as an unconventional and interesting reinterpretation of the simple date-and-moon-phase watch. Unlike traditional moon-phase displays, this employs mobile counters that orbit the dial over a 59-day cycle to reveal the current lunar phase. It’s a large watch and a little thick, but still elegant thanks to the design. The new variants look more modern than their predecessors thanks to the two-tone cases and meteorite dials that sport subtle colour accents that are typically Hermes. The main downside is the fact that the three are delivered as a set, which not only means the cost is high – the set retails for ...
Monochrome
Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]
Monochrome
Bianchet is an independent watchmaking brand founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, whose atelier is located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Since 2021, the brand has been offering modern tonneau-shaped watches powered by architectural openworked tourbillon movements. As Watches and Wonders and its side events are fast approaching, Bianchet unveils a new model named the B […]
Deployant
Ba111od, ever the disruptor has released their Chapter 7, now with their first chronometer-certified by Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève.
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SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey has just announced that ownership of the company has once again reverted to Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, confirming rumours that have been circulating since Michel Nydegger replaced Antonio Calce as chief executive. With Mr Calce’s departure, the brand was pivoted back to more traditional complicated watches, as exemplified by the recent Hand Made 2 and Nano Foudroyante EWT. The shares owned by Mr Calce, was acquired by either the two cofounders or the company itself. The statement issued by Greubel Forsey states “Mr. Calce no longer holding any shares in the company or being affiliated with it.” Mr Calce came on board in 2020, and redirected the brand towards high-end sports watches. Industry talk at the time was that he was not only pivoting the company’s products, but also engaged in a search for a buyer for the brand. With a majority stake, Mr Greubel continues as the board’s chairman. Though his exact role is unspecified, Mr Forsey will presumably take off where he left off, as both a brand ambassador and watch constructor. The return of the two founders as the company’s only shareholders is the latest twist in the story of the company. Besides Mr Calce, Richemont once owned a stake in the brand. The Swiss luxury group, which also owns Cartier and Lange, acquired 20% of the brand in 2006 but the hoped-for synergies or acquisition never came to pass. Richemont sold the stake back to Greubel Forsey in 2022 , just after Mr Calce came on b...
Monochrome
Late last year, we reviewed the latest edition of David Candaux DC1, crafted in titanium. A few months earlier, we had the pleasure of sharing an interview with the talented independent watchmaker from Le Solliat in Vallée de Joux, who has earned a reputation for his exceptional craft, having contributed to the creation of ultra-complicated […]
Monochrome
One of France’s oldest family-owned and run luxury companies, Hermès started life in 1837 as a producer of harnesses and saddles in Paris. Renowned for its impeccable artisanal craftsmanship and intrepid artistic flair, Hermès manages to endow its watches with a singular dash of poetry. The equestrian-inspired profile of the Arceau, which has hosted poetic […]
Monochrome
Chronofixe is a French brand created in the mid-19th century in Les Rasses, a small French village near the Swiss Border, just a few kilometres from La Chaux-de-Fonds. Despite the name falling into proverbial oblivion, it was relatively big at some point, with up to 200 workers. Among other watches, it is known for producing […]
SJX Watches
At the dawn of the 20th century, Brazil’s cities were brimming with energy, driven by booming commodity markets. In Rio de Janeiro, trams clattered along bustling streets while conversations about ambition and progress filled the air in crowded cafés. Few aspirations were as compelling for the growing middle class, eager to leave their mark in this modernising world, as owning European luxury goods. And among these, nothing spoke of sophistication and success quite like a fine watch. For many Brazilians, timepieces from brands like Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin were the ultimate symbols of precision and craftsmanship. Yet, their presence was confined to gleaming shop windows along the most prestigious shopping streets, tantalising but out of reach for all but the wealthiest. The dream of owning one of these masterpieces seemed no closer than the distant European watchmaking centres where they were crafted. But Brazil found a way to close this gap. Here, the concept of watch clubs took shape-an innovative model blending weekly instalments with the thrill of a lottery draw. This system turned the unattainable into something not just possible but accessible. Spearheaded by visionary retailers and embraced by Europe’s finest watchmakers, the clubs reflected Brazil’s unique ability to adapt global trends to its local reality. Three retailers organised the most iconic watch clubs and positioned themselves at the forefront of this movement: G...
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Quill & Pad
With the Overall Market Index now at a two-and-a-half year low, the broad-based nature of the declines across the market continues: Rolex prices are now also at a 30-month low, while Patek Philippe has hit a 26-month low, and Audemars Piguet is at a 27-month low.
Monochrome
Some of the most spectacularly finished watches come from Lang & Heyne, a small high-end watchmaker from the outskirts of Dresden. Especially the Anton Manufaktur Edition, with its tourbillon that seems to float in thin air, is a feast for the eye. We visited Lang & Heyne to give you a view inside the manufacture.
Monochrome
A new collaboration between our Dutch fellows from Fratello and independent watchmaker Czapek has just landed. Following their first and successful collaboration, which was a green take on the brand’s luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Antarctique Passage de Drake, the Dutch magazine is back with its signature Viridian Green colour, but on […]
Fratello
Following the success of the Czapek × Fratello Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green, we knew we wanted to continue working with one of the most exciting brands in Haute Horlogerie. Without further ado, we introduce you to the Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green,” a watch that proudly celebrates its namesake color. Despite […] Visit Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Over three days in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the 2024 Heuer Collector's Summit brought together the brand's most ardent fans.
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Monochrome
Dial textures can make or break a watch, but if done right they elevate the display of time into something gripping, something very impactful. One of the more common but always interesting textures, especially in aquatic (-inspired) watches, is the wave pattern. Sure, Clous de Paris or vertical or horizontal grooves are often very nice, […]
SJX Watches
Having reintroduced its reversible chronograph in steel or gold last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) now does one better with the Reverso Tribute Chronograph in pink gold – with the case, dial, and movement bridges in pink gold. Featuring the double-sided display of the iconic design, the new chronograph has a solid gold dial laser-engraved with fine horizontal lines, while the open-worked dial on the reverse reveals the pink gold bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève. Initial thoughts The original Reverso Chronograph was launched in 1995, equipped with one of the first manually-wound integrated chronograph movements developed post-Quartz Crisis (I can only think of the Piguet cal. 1180 that was earlier), making it notable piece of horological history. The 1995 original was a limited edition of 500, so the revival of the movement last year, while not imaginative, was a good thing. The new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a distinct variation of last’s year model that is no doubt superior thanks to its all-old execution, in contrast to regular-production version that features a movement with conventional rhodium-plated brass bridges. The use of a gold movement also brings to mind Reverso models of the 1990s and 2000s that employed similarly precious movements. Everything about the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is appealing, except the price of US$66,000. It’s almost twice as expensive as the standard model in pink gold, which is difficult to justify even considering th...
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre's competition i.e., Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet have surged in recent years. They are now all well-recognized brands in broader society, whereas the love for JLC is reserved for true enthusiasts. Raman Kalra explains why.
SJX Watches
The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone. When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s continues its collaborative streak with independent watchmakers. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke is essentially a Louis Erard regulator model dressed in Kudoke’s signature dial and hands. Available in purple, forest green, light blue or white mother-of-pearl, the dial goes all-in with the details. It sports applied chapter rings, clous de Paris patterning on the hour register, and a stamped granular finish on the rest of the dial, echoing the aesthetic of Kudoke’s Handwerk collection. Initial thoughts The new model boasts impressive dial details that are usually found in pricier timepieces, while managing to retain the identities of both brands in a best-of-both-worlds presentation, making it arguably one of Louis Erard’s very best collaborations. But because it is fundamentally a Le Régulateur, it has the shortcomings of the model, namely a noticeably thick case that’s required to accommodate the Sellita base movement plus regulator module. Still, the Kudoke Le Régulateur is a good value proposition all things considered. Though slightly more expensive, the mother-of-pearl model stands out as it offers an unusual combination of materials and design in this price segment. Affordable guilloché The stainless steel case is identical to that of the standard model, and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm in thickness. It is entirely polished and features domed sapphire crystals on both sides. The dial retains the model’s trademark in-lin...
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Monochrome
Oris introduces a limited edition of its Divers Sixty-Five created in collaboration with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP) and the National Convention of Child Protection Associations charity (CNAPE). The model chosen to promote the annual children’s football tournament is a classic 38mm Divers Sixty-Five powered by an automatic movement – not to be confused […]
SJX Watches
First conceived as an auto-racing inspired take on its jumping hour wristwatch, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the second iteration of the model. Retaining the same design as the original Monsieur Superleggera, the Intense Black Edition is powered by the Caliber 1, a thoughtfully constructed in-house movement. Italian for “super light”, Superleggera is named after the lightweight body-on-frame race cars of the 1930s, a reference to the ceramic-on-steel construction of the Monsieur case. Initial thoughts The original Chanel Monsieur was proof that “fashion” brands can create watches as good as, or better than, their traditional watchmaking counterparts. I liked it for the fact that the design of both the watch and the movement were cohesive, illustrating an attention to detail – right down to the shape of the balance wheel and typography – that most watch brands lack. The Marble Edition is a particular favourite. A sportier and slightly larger version of the original, the Monsieur Superleggera has a more designed aesthetic with the textured, open-worked dial and crown guards, but the design still remains cohesive. It has just the right amount of detail, including the applied retro “Superleggera” logo. Styling aside, the movement remains the same and excellent. Besides the unusual complications – jumping hours and retrograde minutes in a vertically symmetrically layout – the Caliber 1 has a distinctive construction that show...
Monochrome
During the 20th century, Junghans recruited some of the best designers to perpetuate the rational, understated German aesthetic that informs the brand’s products. Anton Ziegler, in charge of design from 1930 to 1960, understood the importance of proportion and balance on a dial and the elegance of a slim case, characteristics that have defined the Meister […]
Fratello
Hello, and welcome! You’re listening to Fratello Talks. This week’s episode features RJ, Daan, and Nacho, three members of the Fratello team who join forces to wax poetic about some of their favorite affordable watches. This is the first volume of what will almost certainly become a recurring topic for the podcast. There are simply […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Affordable Watches Vol. 1 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
It's been named the "French Watch of the Year" by the Union de la Bijouterie Horlogerie, but is it worthy of that title?The post Is the Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 the “French Watch of the Year”? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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