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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Hands On: The First-Ever Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC SJX Watches
Zenith powered Daytona Nov 5, 2024

Hands On: The First-Ever Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC

One of the most valuable watches to go on the block this auction season is the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC. Part of Phillips’ Reloaded auction taking place on November 8, 2024, the Zenith-powered Daytona is the original “Rainbow”, having been produced in 1994, some 18 years before the serially-produced Daytona “Rainbow” was introduced. Like all automatic Daytona models prior to 2000, this Daytona “Rainbow” is powered by the cal. 4030, which is a Zenith El Primero modified by Rolex. But this Daytona is unique in having a singular model reference of 16599 followed by the suffix “SAAEC”, short for saphir arc-en-ciel, French for “sapphire rainbow”. A rainbow history Though the Daytona “Rainbow” is perhaps the most famous gem-set Rolex model today, it took a while to catch on when it was introduced. It debuted as a regular production model in 2012 with the Daytona ref. 116598RBOW in yellow gold and ref. 116599RBOW in white gold. The Daytona ref. 116599RBOW in white gold At launch the Daytona “Rainbow” was not the object of frenzied desire as it is now, but by 2018 it was sought after. And that year Rolex debuted the Daytona ref. 116595RBOW in Everose gold that boasted the upgrade of baguette-cut rainbow indices. The facelift was also applied to the yellow and white gold versions, both of which now sport baguette-cut rainbow indices as well. As with the first generation model, variants with gem-set dials and bracelets also exist. The Day...

Hands-On: the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On: the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon

We live in a very good time for independent watchmaking. I know that may sound like an oddly specific metric by which to judge the world, but it’s true. There was a time, not so long ago, when an enthusiast watch collector looking for a highly complicated watch would have struggled to find what they were looking for outside the worlds of Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. Perhaps the occasional Blancpain or Breguet might make a splash, but in the wake of the quartz crisis, the contracted watch industry focused on what it did best for the sake of its own survival, and we should all be grateful for that. Thankfully, in 2024, those days are gone, or at least mitigated. Since the mid-‘90s, the rise of independents has been one of the watch industry’s key narrative arcs, and, now, collectors looking to patronize the sort of small, unique, highly technical brands lost to them in the ‘70s and ‘80s are truly spoiled for choice. It is out of this transition that Laurent Ferrier has emerged not only as one of the watch world’s preeminent names but as a perfect encapsulation of how the industry has evolved over the last few decades. And there is no better watch to summarize that point than Laurent Ferrier’s new Classic Moon, introduced at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. But before getting to that watch, it’s worth spending a little bit of time thinking about Laurent Ferrier (the person, not the brand). Now, I’m not going to give you a complete accounting of t...

What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches? Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Nov 5, 2024

What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches?

IWC Schaffhausen is the quintessential example of a watchmaker that set out to become famous for one thing but ended up being famous for something else. Founded in 1868 by American expat Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company devoted itself chiefly to luxuriously decorated pocket watches in its early years but when the military needs of a European continent at war came calling in the 1940s, Jones’ firm shifted its production to focus on decidedly no-frills, robust, utilitarian wristwatches for use in the cockpits of planes. Fast forwarding to today, most watch enthusiasts still regard IWC first and foremost as a leader in the pilot’s watch genre. But that wasn’t always the case, and in fact, IWC’s 21st-Century collection is about as diverse as that of any watch brand out there. For a newbie to the brand, however, that diversity — and even the diversity within the vastly expanded Pilot’s collection itself — can prove daunting, especially when attempting to choose which IWC watches offer the price-to-value ratio that would motivate one to pull the trigger on a purchase. In this latest article in our recently inaugurated Price of Admission series, I will attempt to help you make sense of IWC’s modern collection from an entry-level pricing standpoint, homing in on the best models to consider as one’s “first” IWC watch.  PILOT’S WATCHES: IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 36 ($4,350) It’s appropriate to start our exploration with the Pilot...

Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT Fratello
Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Laventure introduced its Transatlantique II GMT this past June. Since then, the brown versions in steel and steel and gold already sold out. Those models were limited to 99 and 50 pieces, respectively. The black and green version in steel is only limited by the brand’s production capacity. It’s probably the first time that one […] Visit Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

Introducing – The C by Romain Gauthier Platinum Edition Bracelet Joins the Heritage Collection Monochrome
Nov 5, 2024

Introducing – The C by Romain Gauthier Platinum Edition Bracelet Joins the Heritage Collection

This summer, indie watchmaker Romain Gauthier announced the end of the titanium-case-rubber-strap editions of its contemporary, aesthetically and horologically pleasing C by Romain Gauthier watch line, which was first launched in 2021 as the Continuum and now comprises two sub-collections. The Freedom collection is reserved for titanium-cased watches on straps and titanium bracelets, while the […]

Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph Nov 5, 2024

Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

With all the talk around Bremont’s new lineup, not to mention the change in direction, we wanted to let the watch do the talking, so we’ve gone hands-on with the all-new Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph to see for ourselves! What We Love: The vintage-style numerals The dial is easy to read at a glance The new bracelet design is comfortable and looks great What We Don’t: The watch is on the thicker side, so wears on the larger side Lack of micro-adjust on the clasp and bracelet The lack of a screw-down crown on an explorers sports watch Overall Rating: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Bremont is a brand not without some controversy, well, at least this year when they and CEO Davide Cerrato revealed an all-new brand identity and logo, along with new releases at Watches & Wonders this year. Since then, we have spoken at length with Davide, (stay tuned for that interview in a few weeks), and while time will ultimately let the public see this all come together, the way he describes it, his grand plan makes sense. That being said, whilst the changes took many off-guard, us included, rather than getting involved in the online rhetoric, we thought we would do what we do best – get our hands on the new range and see how the watches are in real life, in the hands and on the wrist. After all, you can never really give an opinion on a piece until you’ve had experience with it and even more so when you can spend consid...

Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

When Tudor hints at a new watch, the rumor mill starts running on overdrive. Usually, it sparks discussions about great possible additions to the Tudor lineup. How about that for Tudor scooping up ideas for future releases? But this time, the teaser that Tudor released wasn’t too mysterious. With a clip that showed the Marine […] Visit Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.

Talking About The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Program - An Interview With David Bijlsma Of Gassan Fratello
Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Program - Nov 4, 2024

Talking About The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Program - An Interview With David Bijlsma Of Gassan

About two years ago, Rolex announced its Certified Pre-Owned program. It’s a partnership between Rolex and several official retailers worldwide. In short, these retailers can now offer pre-owned Rolex watches with a brand-issued authenticity certificate and a two-year international warranty. Recently, I sat down with David Bijlsma, Chief Commercial Officer at Gassan, to talk about […] Visit Talking About The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Program - An Interview With David Bijlsma Of Gassan to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003 Worn & Wound
Panerai Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003

Search for “vintage watch” on Kickstarter and you’ll be met with page after page of watches that seek to capture the charm of watches from decades past. Some will be near-replicas that look more like carbon copies than modern interpretations. Others will find a balance of paying homage to iconic designs while still maintaining an air of originality. While the approaches vary, vintage inspired designs remain pervasive – they’re just about everywhere. Last year, Toronto based Fleux joined the ranks of brands crowdfunding their vintage inspired freshman releases with the FLX001 and FLX002– taking the amalgamation route by drawing inspiration from a variety of classic skin divers. The FLX001 featured chunky lume plots and a blocky orange hour hand that brought to mind images of Squale and Vulcain. The FLX002 featured a California dial, a layout of half Roman and half Arabic numerals that was popularized by brands like Rolex and Panerai. Changing gears to pay homage to a single watch rather than a genre, the FLX003 unapologetically draws its inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle- also known as the “Big T”. The Watch Lets address the elephant in the room: When considering a $500 NH38 powered Omega inspired dive watch, it’s fair to ask how it differs from the other Omega-inspired designs on the market. Afterall, a 200 meter, Seiko powered watch from Pagani Design can be yours for about $100. I’ve personally owned (and worn with pride) many of t...

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 Fratello
Casio n Gerald Charles Maestro Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, Gerald Charles announced the exclusive Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 created in collaboration with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle. It features Gerald Charles’s well-known Maestro case with a ruby-red vulcanized rubber strap for the occasion. Gerald Charles Maestro […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 to read the full article.

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon × Senna - In Honor Of A Formula 1 Icon Who Passed Away 30 Years Ago Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon × Nov 4, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon × Senna - In Honor Of A Formula 1 Icon Who Passed Away 30 Years Ago

Ayrton Senna da Silva (1960–1994) was much more than a brilliant Brazilian racing driver. He was a unique talent with a particular character and an inspiration to many. This year marks the 30th anniversary of his tragic death following a crash at the Imola circuit. Later this month, the six-episode Netflix series Senna will come […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon × Senna - In Honor Of A Formula 1 Icon Who Passed Away 30 Years Ago to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi Nov 4, 2024

Introducing – The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin introduced the Freak X, an entry-level to the innovative and convention-breaking Freak series, maintaining the brand’s “no-dial, no-hands” design, showcasing its signature flying carousel construction within the newly developed UN 230 movement. Though simpler than the original Freak and featuring a crown, the Freak X retained the DNA of its iconic […]

IFL Watches Introduces The Tissot PRX Arabian Night Concept Limited Edition Fratello
Tissot PRX Arabian Night Concept Nov 4, 2024

IFL Watches Introduces The Tissot PRX Arabian Night Concept Limited Edition

IFL Watches keeps surprising us with creative new artwork gracing the dials of watches from various makers. With the Stockholm-based brand’s newest customized dial, we are transported to the world of Arabian Nights. The canvas for this creative journey is the black-dial version of the quartz Tissot PRX. It forms the perfect backdrop for IFLW’s […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Tissot PRX Arabian Night Concept Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection Fratello
Longines Nov 3, 2024

Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection

Over the past year, I’ve collected watches from the ’40s and ’50s. Watches with Dennison cases are impossible to avoid when focusing on this early period. The Birmingham, England-based company was a notable case maker for Omega, Longines, and more until its closure in 1967. Today, the name returns with a very different set of […] Visit Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Nov 3, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition

Around this time two years ago, Seiko introduced its first trio of Speedtimer Solar Chronograph models. The series combines vintage-inspired looks with modern technology at an affordable price, making it a tempting proposition that many watch enthusiasts embraced. Since then, the line has been slowly expanding with variations in different sizes and colorways. The newest […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition to read the full article.