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The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.
Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.
Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.
Monochrome
The revival of a long-dormant watchmaking name always sparks our curiosity at MONOCHROME. Born in 1919, the Manufacture des Montres Niton S.A. became known for its watches and movements featuring jumping hours. Niton supplied movements to Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, Gubelin and many more… Today, the brand returns with the Niton Prima, an elaborate […]
Revolution
Fratello
Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown, dear Fratelli! This week’s battle is a bit different. Our fearless leader, RJ, served up a provocative proposition during our last editorial meeting: “Why don’t we do a battle between two editors’ personal watches for a change?” Okay, RJ, we hear you. We’re ready and prepared. Let’s get personal! […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Thomas’s Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 Vs. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.
Monochrome
Despite a challenging political and economic context worldwide, and the undeniable impact of tariffs on exports to the US, luxury powerhouse Richemont, owner of Cartier, IWC, JLC, and Vacheron, seems to remain strong. Indeed, in its latest quarterly report for the three-month period ended 31 December 2025 versus the prior-year period, and at constant exchange […]
Revolution
Revolution
Time+Tide
Cartier continues to be the big winner of the watch industry - in no small part thanks to its strong 2025 releases.The post Cartier was the unexpected saviour of the watch industry in 2025 – here’s our favourite 5 releases from the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Hodinkee
Tracing the story of Cartier through the myriad fine details of the brand's most iconic wristwatch.
Worn & Wound
Every few years, a new independent hits the scene with something that hits just the right notes to get all the factions of the watch world vibrating at the same frequency. However, no recent newcomer has managed to unite the watch echo chamber the way Swiss independent Berneron has. When Berneron unveiled their debut offering, the Mirage, in 2023, it was universally lauded as the most intriguing and refreshing new watch seen in ages. The Mirage was a legitimately unique take on upscale watchmaking, with a striking aesthetic and design narrative as unexpected as its asymmetrical shape and wildly ambitious bespoke movement. The Mirage’s styling was initially met with comparisons to the Cartier Crash, but the reality is its melted case shape was an elegant solution for housing the watch’s impressive mechanics–a case shrink-wrapped around a new caliber that was designed from scratch, free from the rules of traditional movement design. The Mirage was a helluva of a breakout hit; it had mystique, it was technically impressive, and it was different without resorting to arbitrary design choices. The Mirage’s success would be difficult to replicate, but with the Quantième, Berneron has both side-steped the sophomore slump and cemented the reputation of its founder and Creative Director Sylvain Berneron as a true visionary and a generational talent. The Quantième applies Berneron’s virtuosic technicality to a watch that embraces a more traditional look than the Mir...
Fratello
Good morning, Fratelli, and welcome to a new Sunday Morning Showdown. Grab a cup of coffee or tea, something sweet, and sneak up somewhere next to the Christmas tree. This week, we’ll put two watches up against each other that could both perfectly serve as Christmas dinner watches. They’re both rectangular with silver dials and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tank Américaine Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.
Revolution
Teddy Baldassarre
The Cartier Tank is among the most iconic and enduring designs in today’s horological landscape. The brand’s no-frills design, inspired by military Renault FT-17 tanks of WWI, not only shares centre stage with another innovator of the rectangular watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (more on that later), but it has reacted well to several significant updates, surviving modification after modification without ever losing an ounce of its integrity or charm. One example is the Cartier Tank Busculante. Article by Nina Scally [toc-section heading="Some Context"] [text-media heading="" text="Loved equally by men and women worldwide, the Tank has a fascinating history. It was born into a colossal legacy and was required to follow in the footsteps of the revolutionary Santos – an aviation watch with an unmistakable presence (big boots to fill). The Santos was the first true modern wristwatch of its time and had already set an impossibly high bar. Emerging from its square-shaped shadow, however, the Tank faced a monumental challenge." image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Jackie-Kennedy-watch-2.jpg" caption=""] [image-with-caption image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Basculante-Featured-Sothebys.jpg" caption="Photo by Sotheby's"] Against all odds, it became the definitive dress watch of its era. Its slim profile and perfectly blended proportions enabled it to slip neatly under the cuff of a shirt, int...
Worn & Wound
There are few watches that have appeared over the last few years that I’ve been as excited about as the echo/neutra Rivanera. I wrote about it at length last year, and coming up on twelve months since I had to send my sample back to Italy, I still think about this watch and how original and full of ideas it is. It did something that’s hard for a single watch to do: it clarified to me what echo/neutra is about as a brand. Up until the Rivanera, I honestly didn’t have a fully formed concept in my head as to what the echo/neutra team was working toward. I liked their watches well enough, but they didn’t speak to me on a gut level. The Rivanera did, though, and it helped me see the vision of the brand in a clearer light. The latest release from echo/neutra, the Rivanera Piccolo, further cements them as one of the most interesting design forward, affordable indies out there at the moment. A sequel of sorts, the Rivanera Piccolo continues to riff on the original’s rectangular shape, but dares to make it smaller, squarer, and, somehow, sportier. If the Rivanera was a new spin on designs like the Cartier Tank and early Art Deco, the Piccolo jumps a few decades ahead – there’s some distinctly 1960s/70s funk here in a way that I haven’t seen presented in a watch of this type. It places itself right in the middle of the current “stone dials on everything” trend without actually including a stone dial. Let’s get the proportions out of the way first. The Picco...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Cartier of today is undeniably a symbol of luxury and has strategically manufactured that imagery. From its quintessential deep red boxes with gold filigree border to its looping cursive script, even before you get to the object itself, whether it be jewelry or a watch, the brand has carefully crafted the entire experience of its product to position it as such. But today, we’re taking a look at an anomaly in the maison’s past, for which Cartier descended from its luxurious heights to extend its hand to the mass market. Les Must de Cartier is representative of a pivotal time in the history of watchmaking, and its contrasting accessibility played a crucial role in the maison’s longevity and its ability to weather shifting market trends. Down below, I’ll be walking you through how Must de Cartier came to be, some significant design codes, how the line has reemerged after its discontinuation, and share some musings and philosophical ponderings about this strange chapter in Cartier’s history. Les Must de Cartier Context From its relatively humble beginnings as a local, artisanal jewelry workshop in 1847, by the turn of the 20th century, Cartier had already established itself as a global luxury powerhouse, operating in London, New York, and Paris by 1909. Each independent branch of Cartier at this time was operated by a trio of Louis-François Cartier’s grandsons, and while they often collaborated, each location developed its own unique flair and catered to ...
Hodinkee
A century-old dialogue between discretion, design, and the absence of hands has been one of this year's rising trends.
SJX Watches
Philips’ upcoming sale in Geneva from November 8-9 includes two timepieces owned by John Pierpont Morgan Jr., widely known as Jack Morgan. Heir to a financial empire, Morgan was the first chairman of what is now JPMorganChase, and more pertinently, inherited the sensibilities of his father, J. Pierpont Morgan Sr., in collecting and gifting. Morgan Sr. was a collector on a grand scale, and across categories. The catalogues of his collections spanned volumes – two books for Chinese porcelain, four for miniatures, and a single volume for his watches and clocks, albeit a 350-page tome that weighed almost 6 kg in its original edition. The penchant for collecting was passed on to Jack Morgan, who evidently had sharp tastes in watches and clocks. The two timepieces going on the block at Phillips illustrate that. One is the first-ever Cartier mystery clock, a Model A sold to Morgan in 1913. And the other is one example of the “Morgan caliper”, a series of minute repeating, split-second chronograph, tourbillon pocket watches made for J.P. Morgan & Co., which were gifted by Morgan Sr. and Jack Morgan to the firm’s partners and important associates. Titans of finance In 1913, Louisiana senator Arsène Pujo formed the Pujo Committee to investigate the growing concentration of financial power in the United States. The committee found that an inner circle of partners at J.P. Morgan & Co. and its two largest proxies held 341 directorship positions across the boards of 34 majo...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to overstate the impact that Salvador Dalí-and, by extension, the Surrealist movement-had on popular culture. What might now feel like a strange detour in an art history textbook was, in reality, a radical reimagining of what art could be. Dalí’s obsession with the unconscious, symbolism, and dream logic reframed art as a psychological response to culture, rather than just a mirror of it. In doing so, Surrealism paved the way for the Avant-Garde, Pop Art, and the way we think about art today. It’s no surprise, then, that Dalí’s legacy continues to ripple through design and (not to be dramatic here) time itself. Brands have long used his vision as a jumping-off point for their own explorations of time and perception, most notably, of course, through reinterpretations of some of Dali’s most famous works, like his 1931 The Persistence of Memory. The Cartier Crash, with its iconic “melting clock” case, is probably the most famous representation of this style; but it is not the only one. In fact, Exaequo has been producing its own version of a melting watch since 1990, with its latest references, the Polyhedron series, debuting at Time to Watches in Geneva earlier this year. While there will undoubtedly be comparisons between Cartier’s and Exaequo’s two versions of a wobbly little timepiece, there is a marked difference between the two brands’ approach to the same reference source (not least of all the price). For the Polyhedron, Exaequo...
Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier is a household name, easily crossing the threshold from watch insider (or luxury-object insider) to fully accepted in the broader cultural zeitgeist as a sort of “things dreams are made of” aspirational fare. If Rolex is the man’s peak piece of horological wanting, then by goodness, Cartier occupies an equal space in the minds of women watch buyers. Here we will go through some of the best Cartier ladies' watches. (Yes, of course there are plenty of women who look to Rolex the same way a man does, and vice versa with men and Cartier. The two brands stand shoulder to shoulder as perhaps the most recognizable names in the game.) To achieve the status of being labeled influential in watchmaking is one thing. Very few reach the rarified air of transcending the category altogether. Considering that watches are one of a very few pieces of physical "jewelry" that a man can wear, it’s remarkable that Cartier has been able to carve out a place of legitimate watch enthusiasm for the woman buyer who has far more choices in the category. Granted, Cartier operates in space beyond just watches, unlike the aforementioned Rolex. Cartier History Becoming the most recognizable name, along with Rolex, in the watch industry, is a feat that Cartier didn’t accomplish overnight. The luxury jewelry house was founded back in 1847 in Paris, France, by Louis-François Cartier. However, Cartier's rapid ascension as a watchmaker and jeweler came during the third generation of fam...
Hodinkee
After years of not getting Cartier's "sports watch," it's finally making sense to me.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
Usually, when we think of Cartier, our thoughts turn to classical luxury and elegance rather than military-style minimalism. However, the world-famous maison and “jeweler of kings” has long dabbled in both worlds, at least when it comes to watchmaking. And there is no better example of a timepiece that embodies that ethos than the rather unexpected headliner of Cartier’s new releases at the 2025 Watches & Wonders salon: the Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets. The Tank à Guichets, of course, is an evolution of the original Cartier Tank watch, which is itself a historical example of a modern luxury item with clearly military inspiration (it’s right there in the name, actually). Throughout its prestigious history since being unveiled in 1917 by its inventor, Louis Cartier, the Tank has evolved in ways that are both subtle and revolutionary and has appeared in forms of which many of us might not even be aware. Some of these more exotic and unusual Tank pieces have found their way back into the main collection in recent years as part of the Cartier Privé series, and it is from this series that the new Guichets, in its three distinctive iterations, does indeed hail. The Original Cartier Tank But let’s start off by establishing where this watch’s design legacy began. The classic, original Cartier Tank, which didn’t actually go into serial production until 1919, derived its name and its rectangular, curvilinear case shape from the World War I-era Renault FT-17 t...
SJX Watches
On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Worn & Wound
When the topic of Cartier comes up, usually it’s in the context of a discussion of their beautiful, design oriented dress watches. We all know what we’re talking about here: shaped cases, precious metals, exotic gem set jewelry pieces. This is Cartier’s stock-in-trade, and watch for watch there’s probably no brand on the planet better at making those kinds of watches. But if you look through Cartier’s history, there are plenty of oddball creations that don’t fit neatly into the dress watch narrative. True sports watches are rare (RIP, Calibre de Cartier divers) but there are many notable releases from recent years that run right up to the edge of a sportier category. The Drive de Cartier (also discontinued) was an explicit attempt to make a “men’s” watch that was quite elegant but also larger and could easily read as more casual. The Cartier Roadster collection is another example of a line that viewed sporty/casual styles through a uniquely Cartier lens. And, of course, the Santos has existed for many years in oversized and complicated variants (not to mention black coated examples) that fit nicely into this niche. And last week, Cartier announced yet another new Santos that might, in its way, be among Cartier’s sportiest watches ever, thanks to the material used as well as the finish chosen. The new Santos de Cartier in titanium features a bead blasted titanium case and bracelet, and comes in the larger Santos case size, measuring 39.8mm × 9.3mm. Ac...
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Time+Tide
Cartier's watchmaking competition for up-and-coming artisans has a strict theme, time limit and budget, but Borna argues that's a good thing.The post 80 hours and CHF 500 will determine the next winner of Cartier’s Prize for Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
If there is such a thing as a reigning “It-Girl” watch, the title is definitely won by none other than Cartier’s Panthère. This petite heavyweight has captured the hearts, minds, and wrists of pop culture icons and the general public since its original debut in the early 1980s, and its lasting power has proven to be perennial. On a personal note, it was also the first watch I really took notice of and fell in love with when first breaking into this wild hobby, and foundational to my own taste in watches. While some out there criticize it for being more jewelry than watch, there is a richer, more interesting story to back the Cartier Panthère up. Today, we’re plunging into the deep end of this It-Girl watch’s origin story, tracing its evolution over time, and pinpointing the key ingredients of this watch’s steadfast popularity and whether or not it really is the best Cartier watch for ladies. Cartier Panthère Context and History Image: Sotheby's Before we arrive at the birth of the It-Girl watch to end all It-Girl watches in the ‘80s, we must travel in our metaphorical time machine back further, all the way to 1913, the first year that the panther symbolism and imagery appeared in the Cartier universe. Quite fittingly, the story at hand also begins with an early 20th-century It-Girl in her own right, Jeanne Toussaint. George Barbier's 1913 "Dame à la Panthère" Born in 1887 in Belgium, Toussaint utilized her bold and vivacious personality to ascend modes...
Monochrome
The name Santos at Cartier carries a lot of weight. One of Cartier’s oldest collections, named after Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who commissioned a watch from his friend Louis Cartier in 1904 to be worn while piloting his flying machines, it took on a slightly different vocation in recent years, becoming the brand’s vision of […]
Worn & Wound
Virtually every watch enthusiast is familiar with Art Deco, even if they don’t know it. Art Deco, short for Arts décoratifs, first appeared in Paris in the 1910s and spread across the globe over the following two decades. You may not be familiar with Art Deco’s principles - bold geometric forms and streamlined, mechanical aesthetics, among them - but you are almost assuredly familiar with some of its most famous designs, like the Cartier Tank and JLC Reverso. Worn & Wound contributor and Art Deco enthusiast Christoph McNeill considers Art Deco “the pinnacle of design,” and says he loves the beauty of the Machine Age design movement’s expression of curves and lines, obsession with mechanical aesthetics, and “streamline” nature. Wristwatches, which became popular about the same time Art Deco came onto the scene, was a natural medium for Art Deco design. “Because they’re little, tiny machines, right? said McNeill. “It sort of went hand-in-hand.” Vintage Art Deco watches from Christoph’s personal collection So, what does Art Deco design look like in watches? “It means clean lines, very specific fonts,” said watch collector and seller extraordinaire Eric Wind. “I think of a lot of rectangles, squares, things like that. Less round, unless it’s round within a rectangle. A lot of black on silver. I think of that kind of high shine chrome when I think about Deco as well. More silver than gold.” Wind cites “a lot of Pateks from the 20s and ...
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