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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Casio n worth marking Lange Jul 2, 2024

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary

A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...

Zenith Defy Revival A3691 Gets Throwback Red Dial Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival A3691 Gets Jan 18, 2023

Zenith Defy Revival A3691 Gets Throwback Red Dial

Around this time last year, Zenith introduced a new watch to their Revival series focused on the A3642 Defy “Bank Vault”, a particularly stylish example of the brand’s willingness to skirt conventional designs. The Revival perfectly captured that watch’s charming size and smokey aesthetic, and this year they are returning to the platform with the Revival A3691, honoring the first Defy model with a vividly colored dial, released in 1971. The newest Defy Revival A3691 gets the same deep red dial as the original, and keeps all the funk of the design in the process.  The late ‘60’s and early ‘70’s were a pretty wild time for watch design, and Zenith was among those at the forefront of pushing the boundaries. Seriously, check out some of their old Port Royal and Defy designs and marvel at their oddity. As far as I’m concerned, we could use a bit of the same thinking today. These Zenith Revival watches are an apt reminder of their creativity, both then and now. Not only do the Revival watches do a great job of looking back, they balance against other Defy watches that are looking to push ahead, such as their latest Defy Skyline range. Or their collaborations with the likes of Felipe Pantone. The Defy Revival A3642 featured a dramatic smokey gradient dial that faded from light to dark, and the latest A3691 retains a bit of this quality within the rich red hue, with a gentle shift from light to dark at the dial’s edge. The oversized hour markers look a bit lik...

Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result] SJX Watches
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” Mar 13, 2022

Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]

A limited edition launched at the end of 2021, the Zenith Chronometer Revival “Poker Chip” was the result of a collaboration between our founder and the watchmakers in Le Locle. One of them just popped up for sale at online auctioneer Loupe This – the first example to go under the hammer. The 200 pieces sold out at launch, making this a perfect opportunity for anyone who missed out last year. If the funky dial appears familiar, that’s because the Poker Chip reimagines the G383, one of the standout designs from the first references of the El Primero. While the G383 had a lavish, gold-on-black palette, the Poker Chip is entirely contemporary. Its dial is generously “lumed” – even the strap glows in the dark – bringing it to life at night, with the aesthetic alluding to the disco era of 1960s and 1970s when the G383 was born. [Update March 17, 2022: The Poker Chip sold for US$16,500 including fees on Loupe This.] The case is a micro-blasted titanium coated in DLC, which complements the military-esque dial. Notably the Poker Chip was the first – and remains the only – classic, 38 mm El Primero with a titanium case. Continuing the blend of new and old, the movement is the original El Primero 400 that’s almost identical to the 1969 original. As it is being phased out, this movement was chosen instead of the latest-generation El Primero 3600 (which has a lightning seconds), making the Poker Chip one of the last watches with the landmark calibre. Accompani...

Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” SJX Watches
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” When Feb 19, 2021

Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

When Zenith first took the covers off the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” in the middle of last year, my immediate reaction was “That’s a super cool-looking watch.” Unlike its fellow remakes like the A384 and A386, or the more recent A385, the Shadow isn’t a replica of an actual vintage watch Zenith produced in its heyday before the Quartz Crisis. While the Shadow was inspired by a 1970 prototype with a black-coated case that never made it into production, the Shadow is very much a modern design. It imagines what a vintage A384 might have been, had it been released in all-black livery in the 1970s. Compared to Zenith’s recent vintage-inspired watches, most of which are faithful remakes, the Shadow is a breath of fresh air. So when Zenith offered the chance for me to spend a couple of days with the watch, I seized it. The El Primero A384 Revival that’s a faithful remake of the vintage original Initial thoughts I had a visceral reaction when I first strapped on the Shadow: my heart sang, and a smile crept onto my face. I was struck by how different it looked on the wrist; distinct not only from the other El Primero chronographs, but against other offerings at the same price point. In fact, it looked to me more like a Bamford collaboration rather than a standard model. On the wrist, the Shadow stands out in a subtle but striking manner, especially to a watch enthusiast. Anyone who knows Zenith will understand that’s an A384, but different. Reductive desig...

VIDEO: This Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” is that rarest of things – a true one-off Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” Feb 5, 2021

VIDEO: This Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” is that rarest of things – a true one-off

I know its summer in Australia, but here in the United States it’s the bleak mid winter – so we really needed this heat from Zenith. Since we published our hands-on review of the watch, our readers have made it pretty clear what the nickname of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Brown Gradient Dial should … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: This Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” is that rarest of things – a true one-off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review Dec 13, 2020

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review

The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production.  Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture!  Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s.  The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...

Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Review WatchAdvice
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival May 13, 2020

Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Review

Earlier this year, during LVMH watch week in Dubai, Zenith released a variety of watches for both ladies and gents. We already looked at the Elite Classic range here. One of the pieces that stood out from this relase was the El Primero A384 Revival watch. The A384 Revival was originally released in 2019, however this year, they have gone back to a full retro look for the watch by releasing it with the exclusive bracelet that the original El Primero A384 made its appearance in.  In 1969 when the A384 was being designed, Zenith had to come up with a new case layout in order to be able to fit the el primero movement. The Zenith A384, alongside A385 and A386, were the first watches to feature the El Primero movement. Along with new case design, the Swiss watch manufacturer sought to go for a new bracelet design too. This is where the famed Gay Frères specialist company came in, to not only create a bracelet that was unique at the time, but also perfectly compliment the El Primero A384’s avant-garde design. What was created by Gay Frères was an open design bracelet, termed “ladder” bracelet. The bracelet was not only comfortable to wear but also gave it a dressier look compared to the conventional steel and sports bracelets at the time.  Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet With the return of this bracelet on the El Primero A384 Revival watch, it goes back to the origins of the timepiece and completing the once retro look it had.  The design of the Zenith El Primero...

Hands-On: Zenith El Primero A384 Revival with “Ladder” Bracelet SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Apr 8, 2020

Hands-On: Zenith El Primero A384 Revival with “Ladder” Bracelet

There are few brands that can make modern-day reissues of historical watches powered by the same movement as the vintage original. Zenith, as it happens, is easily able to, thanks to its long-lived El Primero. The chronograph movement celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with several commemorative A386 limited editions, including a one-off in platinum for charity, but most were in gold and thus pricey. On the other hand, the El Primero A384 Revival is a faithful remake – including a “ladder” bracelet – that’s part of the regular collection, and also affordable. Since 1969 While the A386 is the iconic El Primero chronograph – and today the most valuable – the A384 was introduced at the same time (along with the A385), making it part of the debut range of El Primero watches. One reason the A384 doesn’t quite have the stature of the round and relatively-ageless A386 is also one of its most distinctive qualities: a tonneau- or cushion-shaped case that instantly identifies it as a watch of the late 1960s and 1970s. The easily recognisable design has made the tonneau-shaped A384 a popular base for a variety of limited editions, including one based on a fictitious watch featured in the Japanese manga Lupin III. Romain Marietta, the brand’s chief of products, also indicated during a recent conversation that the A384 will continue to be the base for limited editions, while the A386 will not be reproduced again except in exceptional instances since it is syno...

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 200 Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 DOXA’s revival Mar 30, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 200

DOXA’s revival is something easily missed if you’re not paying close attention. Vintage-inspired or re-issued dive watches aren’t exactly selling for double the retail price due to lack of supply, but this DOXA SUB 200 isn’t just another trendy microbrand with an aesthetic and a good marketing team. When determining the legacy of a watchmaker, … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 200 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SIHH2011: A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Striking Time Deployant
A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Striking Time DEPLOYANT Jan 24, 2011

SIHH2011: A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Striking Time

Lange had a bumper crop this year…in addition to the Richard Lange Pour le Merite Tourbillon announced last month…see this, they announced the Zeitwerk Striking Time, the new Saxonia Thin handwound, Saxonia World Time, and a refreshed Saxonia. And stay tuned for yet another big announcement slated for mid-year. But let’s go through the novelties…firstRead More

Richard Lange Pour le Merite Tourbillon by A. Lange & Sohne – all you need to know Deployant
A. Lange & Sohne all you need Dec 20, 2010

Richard Lange Pour le Merite Tourbillon by A. Lange & Sohne – all you need to know

Hands-on definitive review of the A. Lange & Sohne Richard Lange Pour le Merite Tourbillon. This review was published on 9am GMT 20th December 2010, when the embargo lifted.  A number of global journalists were invited to celebrate the founding of the Lange company on 7th December 2010 in Glashutte with a Press Conference toRead More