Time+Tide
New releases from Biver, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Svea Atelier and more
From Biver's first steel watch to the MB&F; LM1 EVO and Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo, catch up on the biggest new watch releases of the week
Results for Pilot Watch
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Pilot Watch
The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.
Exclusive · Guide
History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch
Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.
Time+Tide
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene
China was very late to watchmaking, with its first wristwatch debuting in 1955, while Japan had a domestic pocket watch in 1895 and its first wristwatch in 1913 (respectively Seiko’s Timekeeper and Seiko’s Laurel). Both Swiss and British watchmaking go back to the 16th century, for context. That said, China now produces more watches than all […]
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Heritage 1854’s Makeover, An Archive of Movie Posters, and Luggage-Inspired Eyewear
Reelizer I think part of the reason that I spend $100 a year on my Criterion membership is solely because I was roped in by their box sets at Barnes & Noble in my youth and haven’t recovered. And while I’m constantly complaining I never have time to watch movies anymore, I can’t seem to cancel it. Sometimes, I’ll just scroll through the library to see the little thumbnails of movies I may never watch, more interested in the design that captures the essence of the film than, say, that underground Czech comedy or whatever the hell Criterion is highlighting this month. But, at least, it seems I’m not the only one who loves the posters as much as the movies. Reelizer is a personal archive of movie art curated by designer and developer Roger Erik Tinch. The site currently includes 225 works spanning posters, screenprints, illustrations, physical-media packaging, apparel, books and other pieces from across film culture. Everything can be searched by film, artist or collection, with individual entries crediting the artists and labels behind the work. You can view the entire collection here – and I’d love to know which one is your favorite from the library. Heritage 1854 Gets a Makeover What can I say? I’m on an archive kick lately. First Reelizer and now this. Heritage 1854 is a vintage Timex resource covering watches from 1949 through 2000, created by collector Ark Zaydman as a place to document the watches themselves alongside original catalogs, advertisements...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission Brings the Earth and Mars to the Wrist
Earth, the Moon, Mars, and a spacecraft… Sounds like Christopher Nolan is cooking up another mind-bending film, but it is actually the new Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission. Following the BR-03 Astro from 2025, this new edition has a dial that takes the concept of space-time rather literally. The watch has no conventional hands. […]
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission
Bell & Ross continues on its space story by announcing the BR-03 Space Mission. This is a followup to the highly popular BR-03 Astro released in 2025. Enclosed in the refined 41mm BR-03 case, the watch swaps out the classical hands for a stunning animation: a deep black aventurine glass acts as the backdrop ofRead More
Monochrome
First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy
Frederique Constant is known to make traditionally expensive watchmaking complications more accessible. Its Manufacture Perpetual Calendar, first introduced in 2016, was a QP priced well below that of many established competitors. In 2025, the watch received an update: a more refined 40mm case and a revised movement, with a power reserve extended to 72 hours. […]
SJX Watches
The Biver AB is Time Only and All Quality
Having found critical and commercial success with the Automatique, Biver is continuing with the time-only format, but (slightly) more accessibly. The Biver AB is a manual-wind, three-hand watch, but keeping to the high-end approach of the Automatique. The presentation is discreet but precious. While the dial and movement are solid gold, the case and bracelet are steel. The bracelet is notable for being the same as that found on the Automatique, and is arguably amongst the best in class. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the Biver Automatique and was a little sceptical of the idea of a more accessible time-only watch. The AB, however, surprised on the upside. Like the Automatique, it is executed extremely well. The dial, for example, is an extremely fancy interpretation of the “sector” dial, rendered in onyx and yellow gold. The bracelet adds to the appeal significantly as well. It’s essentially the same bracelet found on the Automatique, but in steel. The facetted links are impressively finished, and more importantly, sit comfortably on the wrist. Pulling off a bracelet that is both functional and finely done is an achievement in itself. That this is standard kit for the watch adds to the appeal. The movement is a little less elaborate than that in the Automatique, but remains tangibly high end; it even has a grande sonnerie-style winding click. All the details are attended to, with bonus decorative flourishes here and there. Though a three-hander, the movement is fairl...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Ressence Type 10 DN "Dark Knight"
What We Know Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders, Belgian brand Ressence introduced the first watch in its collection with an in-house-designed RW-01 movement, the Type 11. That should theoretically mean a farewell (at least for most things going forward) to the base ETA movements that have powered all Ressence models to date, each paired with the brand's unique orbital Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) module. Today's release of the Type 10, timed right alongside WatchTime New York, features the first oil-filled watch from Ressence to feature a proprietary movement. At a high level, the Type 10 might initially feel like a mix of several previous Ressence designs, but the final product somehow feels quite fresh. Much of it is due to the case and bezel. The silhouette of the 41.5mm case in grade 5 titanium gives this Type 10 a cushion-like shape, and it is paired with a flush-integrated rubber strap. It's a new feel for a Ressence. The entire case is coated for a glossy, dark blue hue, and that coloring extends all the way to the strap, buckle, and, of course, the dial. Ressence says this is a DLC coating, but to my knowledge, it's not possible to achieve a colored coating with the specific process—I believe this coating to be something different. If I had to guess, I'd say that it's a ceramic coating of some sort. There is ever-so-slightly a squared-off aspect to the design, with the bezel at twelve and six o'clock flattening out on its edge for a look that comp...
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift
Building on the original Essence Ceramica introduced in March 2025 and the distinctive Dark Matter meteorite dial that followed, Formex is back at work with a bolder take on its sports watch. Using motorsport as an inspiration, the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift combines new finishes for the case, colorful accents and a powerful movement. […]
Time+Tide
Hublot’s next big move, Grand Seiko’s design secrets, and Serica’s unexpected partnership
Hublot’s next chapter, Grand Seiko’s design philosophy, and Serica’s unexpected Peugeot collaboration headline this week’s watch news.
Monochrome
Introducing - Oris Sharpens the ProPilot Calibre 111
Oris is busy refining its core collections, and last year it updated the ProPilot Date series. Now, the Hölstein-based brand applies the same touches to the ProPilot Calibre 111, one of its distinctive models. First introduced in the mid-2010s, this watch stands apart from the more accessible ProPilot Date series with its manually wound manufacture […]
Fratello
The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns More Than A Decade After Its Introduction
Oris revives one of its most distinctive in-house movements with the return of the ProPilot Calibre 111. More than a decade has passed since the 2015 launch of the original Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111, powered by a manually wound movement boasting an impressive 10-day power reserve. That watch followed the release of the Oris’s […] Visit The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns More Than A Decade After Its Introduction to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Redesigned Oris ProPilot Calibre 111
What We Know Oris is going through its catalog and doing some subtle and meaningful updates to the ProPilot lineup. On the heels of a ProPilot Date update last year, the higher-tier ProPilot Calibre 111 is getting similar tweaks that take a very solid watch and make it a bit more refined. In fact, if you compare it to the old, outgoing 44mm version, the refreshed look really does stand out despite the relative subtlety. The new stainless steel case is slimmed down and sharpened up, down from 44mm to 43mm and down from around 14mm (actually 13.85mm) to 13.2mm; there are improvements in sizing, which is impressive for a watch with a 10-day power reserve. The date window has been moved to the 6 o'clock position for better balance, and the new finishing for the black or pine green dial combines a main vertically brushed surface with a textured, pebbled graining in the subdials and minute track. The Calibre 111 movement is visible through the display caseback, while the watch maintains a 100m water resistance all the same. You can see that massive barrel required for the 240-hour power reserve and what looks to be a nice level of finishing for the price point. The angled fluting on the bezel carries over to the caseback ring as well, which adds a balanced touch. And while you can still get the watch on a choice of leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, the 'LIFT' clasp and seamless fit strap adjustment system make either choice a solid one. Since this is more of a powerhous...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel
What We Know A few weeks ago I got an unexpected invite from Pierre Biver to see the brand's newest watch. Despite any ideas I might have had in my mind, Biver's new watch—just called the "AB"—was not what I expected. Instead of a new, complicated, potentially larger piece, the AB is a response to customer demand, says Biver (the person, not the brand, but kind of the person and the brand in one). After their Automatique was a runaway success in its various forms over the past two years, they resisted the urge to put the proprietary movement in a stainless steel case (as highly requested). Instead, today, they're launching a manually-wound, proprietary new movement with over 100 hours of power reserve, in a smaller steel case and moving the brand forward. The watch measures 38mm by 9.8mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. The case maintains the general hallmarks of Biver's cases, with brushed and polished geometric angular lugs—reminiscent of a Patek 3448 or 3450—but with tweaks to the bezel to change how it looks on the wrist. The dial is a multi-level gold dial, with a grained central texture, 2N gold metallicized indices, chamfered levels, gold hands with hand-finished facets, and an onyx stone-dial ring for the hour and minute track. The watch also comes with Biver's striking, angular bracelet, which now comes with a patented micro-adjust activated by two push buttons. Photo by Mark Kauzlarich. The caliber JCB-004 is developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Hor...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Capri By De Rijke & Co Welcomes New Permanent Editions
For those familiar with the work of Dutch independent watchmaker Laurens de Rijke, working under his De Rijke & Co brand name, you’ll know about the Capri as well. Following his Amalfi Series driver’s watch and series of whimsical Miffy Moonphase watches, both featuring rotatable cases, the Capri is cut from a different block yet […]
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co. Makes the Capri Collection a Permanent Fixture of Its Catalog with Three Staple Colorways
At Windup last fall, De Rijke & Co. made a surprise unveiling of the Capri collection, marked by its distinctive ultra-thin rectangular case, unique curved sapphire crystal, integrated shrouded lugs, and stone dials. As the year went on, the brand made an official announcement about the line, launching a poster challenge featuring hidden Easter eggs and offering further previews at other industry events like Milan Watch Week. As the calendar page turned to 2026, pre-orders for the anticipated limited edition Capri finally opened for the initial iterations in black onyx, black aventurine, and blue capri produced in just 50 pieces each. Now, the brand ushers the model into its permanent catalog with three new dial colors: champagne, salmon, and silver. Within each dial variant, there is a balance of subtle nuances and stylistic throughlines. Each version carries a fine textured frosted dial composition that catches and diffuses the light, bringing out the broader spectrum of tones within each of the neutral colorways. De Rijke & Co. has made this effect deliberately subtle. Rather than relying on gloss or decoration, the dials reveal themselves through the curvature across the dial and crystal that’s a defining feature of the Capri. However, each dial shade also has its own cheeky personality. The salmon model offers a fresh take on a hue used throughout the history of watchmaking. Here, the warm pink tone is brought to life thanks to the contrast of the deep blue strap an...
Hodinkee
Business News: Former AP CEO François-Henri Bennahmias Brought In As Consultant To Hublot
François-Henri Bennahmias, the high-profile executive who served as the CEO of Audemars Piguet for more than a decade and grew annual sales beyond $2 billion, is being tapped as a consultant to Hublot in a surprise move by the LVMH-owned watch brand. Bennahmias was recently brought on to advise and consult for the brand, according to people familiar with the matter. Julien Tornare, the long-time LVMH executive who has served as Hublot's CEO since 2024, remains in the role, according to people who asked not to be named because Bennahmias' appointment hasn't been publicly disclosed. The Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons Bennahmias's move to consult for Hublot, founded in 1980 by Italian entrepreneur Carlo Crocco and known for its innovative, irreverent approach to watchmaking, including rubber straps on precious-metal timepieces, is an unexpected shift. The former professional golfer, who led Audemars Piguet until 2024, launched The Honourable Merchants Group in 2025 and promised to bring watch brands to the new luxury conglomerate that also included an electric bicycle company. While Bennahmias held discussions to acquire stakes in existing watch brands, none have been completed. THMG, as the luxury constellation is known, said in July that it would create a brand called 'N3W5' that will launch at Dubai Watch Week in 2027. François-Henri Bennahmias at an event in Switzerland launching The Honourable Merchants Group. LVMH, meanwhile, has been making c...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Noah x Timex Boatswain (Live Pics)
What We Know Timex and Noah have announced the latest in their ongoing series of collaborations, the Noah x Timex Boatswain. Here, the two have taken their Ellipse-style case and swapped out the dial. This makes for the third release from the two brands to make use of this case style, after the Oval Moon — with an oversized moonphase — and the Lighthouse watch — whose standout design detail was a sketch-like image of a lighthouse across the dial. In this case, both those details have been dropped in favor of a reined in nautical theme, which is most evident when looking at the inner track ring on the dial, which is patterned on a ship's rope. Beyond that detail, the Boatswain is, as a watch (dare I say it), rather conventional, with painted Roman Numeral indices, a slightly creamy ivory dial, and your choice of a gold tone or stainless steel case. The watches are double signed, with the Timex logo at twelve, and the Noah script wordmark at six. Hands and dial printing are, in all cases here, black. The case itself retains the same dimensions as previous releases, measuring 31mm x 35mm. The watches are water resistant to 30 meters, and come fitted on textured leather straps; brown with a stainless steel pin buckle on the stainless steel case, and black with a gold tone pin buckle. The straps are fixed to the case by a centrally mounted pin and collar bar, so strap changes are possible, if a little fiddly. As one would expect these watches are quartz. The Noah x Timex ...
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style
Contrary to what many watch enthusiasts think, a watch’s design usually starts with the caliber, not the case or the dial. Most of the time, the movement is the limiting factor that a creative team needs to build a design around. But there are multiple ways of solving the puzzle. One involves creating a different […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style to read the full article.
![[VIDEO] Fossil Signature: Behind the Scenes with Ryan White plus a Special Invitation](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2026/10/Fossil_Signature_01.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Fossil Signature: Behind the Scenes with Ryan White plus a Special Invitation
Introducing the Fossil Signature Collection. We visited Fossil’s Dallas headquarters to sit down with Senior Creative Director Ryan White for a behind-the-scenes look at the inspiration and creative process behind a collection designed with enthusiasts in mind. Join us at Windup Watch Fair NYC for an exclusive screening of the short documentary chronicling the collection’s […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Brew Metric Chrono Taxi
What We Know It's New York Watch Week, which means lots of new releases hitting your feed. But if you're like me, the most exciting ones to find out about this week are often the special editions from the brands at Windup Watch Fair. Last year, I picked up a New York Edition Metric Chrono from Jonathan Ferrer at the Brew table at Windup—which featured dials inspired by the distinctive patterned flooring of New York subways. It was an extremely weird and fun edition, so naturally I've been looking forward to seeing what Ferrer has in store for this year. Turns out, Brew is taking inspiration from another iconic mode of New York City transportation for this year's special edition launching at Windup Watch Fair—the yellow cab. With the very evidently named Metric Chrono Taxi, the familiar mecaquartz chronograph from the brand gets a black, white, and yellow livery for a dial that reflects the motifs of the cars you love and hate in the city (depending on whether you're a rider or a pedestrian, of course). The Metric Chrono framework remains the same here, with a steel square(ish) cushion case design coming in at 36mm and a thickness of 10.75mm. Given the case shape, the lug-to-lug measures a bit longer, though still very compact at 41.5mm. It comes on a steel bracelet with quick-release spring bars and offers a water resistance of 50 meters. Inside is the Seiko VK68 mecaquartz chronograph movement, sitting behind a checkered solid caseback. The dial is where things get in...
WristBuzz
Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum: A New Case, A New Movement, and the Same Restless Spirit
Urwerk's latest satellite watch arrives with a completely fresh architecture inside and out
WristBuzz
Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic: The Loco Puts on a Suit
The wildly popular Loco gets a dress-watch makeover, and the result is one of the most compelling British-designed watches of the year.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Hublot Takes Us Back To The Beginning With The Classic Fusion Tributo
This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Today, a luxury sports watch with a rubber strap is nothing revolutionary, but in 1980 it was scandalous. Italian watchmaker and entrepreneur Carlo Crocco fired the starting gun on a casual-luxury sports watch revolution when he combined a gold case with a rubber strap to build his ultimate Mediterranean summer watch: the MDM 'La Hublot.' Turns out his idea caught on and was quickly embraced by royalty in Monaco, Spain and Sweden, to name just a few. An archival shot of Carlo Crocco posing with early MDM Hublot models. Rarely-seen 'pre-Biver' Hublots, including chronographs and a dive watch. The original MDM 'La Hublot' and the new Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo. It's hard to imagine that Hublot is almost 50 years old. We as collectors tend to think of it as a young brand - and in many senses, it still is - but a half-century ain't nothing to sniff at. 46 years after its inaugural release, Hublot is going all the way back to its Carlo Crocco roots with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo, a standard-production watch that pays tribute to where the maverick brand started, made with the input of Mr Crocco himself (who officially exited Hublot in 2008). This release encompasses two models in 38mm, one in yellow gold and one in white gold, both housing a Zenith-sourced movement. In a departure from the standard Classic Fusion, the Tributo returns to the original MDM Hublot's 12-screw bezel design ...
Fratello
The New Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Takes Us Back To 1980
Forty-six years ago, Carlo Crocco put a gold watch on a rubber strap, and everyone told him he was mad. Now, Hublot has brought it back as the Classic Fusion Tributo. I sat down with him in Nyon, a week before his 82nd birthday, to hear where it really came from. Picture the showroom at […] Visit The New Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Takes Us Back To 1980 to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - Hublot Returns to Its Roots with the Classic Fusion Tributo (Incl. Video)
Before the Big Bang exploded on the watch scene in 2005, Carlo Crocco had already set the wheels of Hublot’s universe in motion. His 1980 watch, with its unorthodox mix of gold and rubber, introduced the Art of Fusion that would later become the brand’s calling card. Returning to the source, the Classic Fusion Tributo […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...
Monochrome
First Look - Hermès Brightens the Glass Fibre H08 with White and Blue Editions
Hermès introduced the H08 collection in 2021 as a different take on the sporty-chic watch, first launched as a time-and-date series, then updated with a monopusher chronograph and, more recently, a skeleton model. The H08 stands out for its rounded square case, original Arabic numerals on the dial, and a mix of surfaces and materials […]
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The Omega Speedmaster Reduced
For many watch enthusiasts, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is untouchable. But there’s another model that has earned its rightful place in the collection — the Speedmaster Reduced. Smaller, automatic, and often more accessible on the pre-owned market, it offers a different take on one of Omega’s best-known chronographs. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Omega Speedmaster Reduced to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Owner’s Review: the Straum Jan Mayen Stormy Seas
Spirit Halloween stores are popping up around the city, pumpkin beer has hit the shelves, and 80-plus-degree highs in Brooklyn are in the rearview mirror (please remain true). I’ve returned my most worn summer watch to the display box and this one included quite a few “firsts”. I received my Jan Mayen Stormy Seas, a collaboration between the Norwegian brand and The Real Time Show (a podcast I’ll admit I’m still ignorant of) in late May after a production issue with the rubber straps delayed the promised delivery date by about three months. I grew up on the west coast sailing with my parents (who until very recently lived fulltime on their 43ft Hans Christian Ketch named “Galatea”) so perhaps that’s why I’m drawn to a watch called “Stormy Seas”, but regardless I found the contents of the precision machined capsule absolutely stunning. This was the first watch I’ve ever pre-ordered. While it’s not my favorite business practice, I knew the risks involved and was quite happy when they included a second strap gratis for the inconvenience. It remained on my wrist almost exclusively for the next three months. As well as my first pre-order and first Straum, it is also the first watch I’ve owned on a rubber strap, my first titanium case, and first integrated bracelet (more on that later). Straum has been on my radar since a Limited Edition Jan Mayen they released with Fratello back in the Spring of 2023. I loved the textural details in that fiery red dia...