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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.
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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.
Introducing: Arsène Lippens Patches Up Dials With The Artigiano “Sashiko Denim” Hodinkee
Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: Arsène Lippens Patches Up Dials With The Artigiano “Sashiko Denim”

What We Know For all the conversations about what to do when a dial is damaged, possibly fit for restoration, or a watch needs some repair, I don't recall many examples of watches with dials that come pre-repaired. That's essentially what Arsène Lippens has launched: a watch inspired by the Japanese craft of Sashiko, which artfully patches and repairs textiles (largely denim) to extend their lives and turn them into something beautiful. In collaboration with Pey van der Wel, a Dutch artist who runs SASHIKODENIM, the brand's new limited edition of 10 pieces is the second in its "Threads of Time" series celebrating textile crafts. The watch is a relatively straightforward release as an entire package: a 37.5mm by 9.9mm 316L stainless steel case housing a manually wound Sellita SW210-1b movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The case is water-resistant to 50 meters, with a solid caseback and a box dome anti-reflective crystal on the front side. The thickness largely comes from the depth required for the dial, which is the star of the show. The dial is made of denim, with 12 individual hour markers hand-stitched one thread wide through the dial, with a cross-hatch at 3, 6, 9, and 12. Of course, none of these dials are the same, and you could argue that some, including the one shown here, might not be perfectly aligned to the hour marker. But so be it. The watch celebrates a centuries-old handcraft and its beautifully imperfect nature. Of course, the watch comes with a denim s...

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Introducing - Glashütte Original Brings Meissen Porcelain to the Senator Cherry Blossom Monochrome
Glashütte Original Brings Meissen Porcelain Oct 8, 2026

Introducing - Glashütte Original Brings Meissen Porcelain to the Senator Cherry Blossom

Following the trio of porcelain-dial watches launched in 2025, German brand Glashütte Original continues its collaboration with Meissen, bringing together two Saxon manufactures, with Glashütte Original responsible for the watch and Meissen for the porcelain dial. While earlier editions explored the “Mystic Maison” and “Collage” motifs, the latest Senator Meissen edition turns to a long-established […]

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Hands On: Wren Vessel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Wren Vessel

New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...

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First Look - The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue Monochrome
Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Oct 8, 2026

First Look - The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue

Introduced in 2024 when the brand fully revamped its dive watch collection, the 43mm Supermarine Full Ceramic has since appeared in Polar White, Jungle Green limited editions, and a non-limited Tactical Black version. Now Bremont expands the series with the new Deep Blue, a 250-piece limited edition that brings another colour to a collection built […]

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Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue SJX Watches
Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue

The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue adds a dark blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500 m dive watch collection. It’s a more casual take on the Supermarine, with a restrained colour and carefully finished case that give the Sellita-powered diver a more stylish, less tactical character. Initial thoughts Sometimes it’s surprising how much difference a colour can make. In the case of the Bremont Supermarine, the navy blue hue of the ceramic case and bezel results in a look that is quite different from that of its black ceramic stablemates. The deep blue colour is very subtle, and to my eye looks less plasticky than some brighter blue ceramic competitors. The prominent texture of the brushing on the case gives it vaguely a metallic appearance, and it at a glance it could almost pass for PVD-coated steel. While ceramic is not a perfect material and can crack under extreme torsion or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface, the real-world benefits outweigh these edge cases. The natural scratch-resistance of ceramic pays dividends when changing straps, for example, as the spring bars cannot scratch the inside of the lugs when finding their seat. There’s also an ancillary benefit to ceramic, which is that service watchmakers will not be tempted to try to polish it. The Supermarine’s strengths lie in its finely executed dial and relatively slim case. The wave-inspired dial pattern is dramatic without being overpowering, while the 13 mm thickness and flat case ...

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The Royal Marine-Approved Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue Makes Its Debut Fratello
Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Oct 8, 2026

The Royal Marine-Approved Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue Makes Its Debut

There were already Jungle Green, Tactical Black, and Polar White versions of this watch, and now there’s a fourth variation. The Royal Marine-approved Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue is an aquatic-colored extension of Bremont’s dive-watch collection. This limited edition of 250 pieces has a colder, darker look inspired by the point where ocean and ice […] Visit The Royal Marine-Approved Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue Makes Its Debut to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Sylvain Berneron Fratello
Berneron Oct 8, 2026

Fratello Talks: Sylvain Berneron

Today, in a special episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and Lex are in Geneva for a chat with independent watch designer and entrepreneur Sylvain Berneron. The conversation kicks off with Berneron’s career in design, his time at major watch companies, and his decision to establish a brand of his own. Berneron’s background is somewhat unusual […] Visit Fratello Talks: Sylvain Berneron to read the full article.

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Red Hot And Ready To Chime: The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater Fratello
Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Oct 8, 2026

Red Hot And Ready To Chime: The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater

I got a sneak preview of the new Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater during Geneva Watch Days last month. Now, anyone who knows me will know that I’m not generally a fan of the color red. As a Tottenham Hotspur supporter, it’s almost a matter of principle. Tottenham till I die, unfortunately […] Visit Red Hot And Ready To Chime: The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater to read the full article.

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Introducing: Glashütte Original's “Cherry Blossom” Senator Meissen Is In Full Bloom This Fall Hodinkee
Glashütte Original s “Cherry Blossom” Senator Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: Glashütte Original's “Cherry Blossom” Senator Meissen Is In Full Bloom This Fall

What We Know Last year, Glashütte Original released a trio of porcelain-dial watches as part of its collaboration with Meissen, Europe's oldest porcelain manufacturer, dating back to 1710. Today, the two historic German houses are partnering again, this time to release a new porcelain-dial watch inspired by Jugatsu-zakura, a Japanese cherry blossom that flowers intermittently during the colder months. The "Cherry Blossom" Senator Meissen retains all of the original collaboration's specs: It measures 40mm wide and 10.2mm thick, is set in red gold, and features an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback. It also comes on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a red-gold pin buckle. The dial is made of a thin slice of white porcelain that acts as a canvas for the hand-painted layers, which are fired at 900° Celsius between each layer to achieve maximum depth and intensity. Glashütte Original's lettering and Meissen's crossed swords logo are hand-painted near the center, but besides that, the dial has a blank format. The exclusion of any hour markers, numerals, or indices allows the cherry blossom motif, with its slender branches that extend upward and delicate, pale-pink flowers, to shine—punctuated only by solid-gold hour and minute hands. Powered by Glashütte Original's in-house automatic Caliber 36-16, the watch offers 100 hours of power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. The movement also features a silicon balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. (aka hacki...

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Introducing: The Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Reserve Gets A New Caliber (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: The Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Reserve Gets A New Caliber (Live Pics)

What We Know If you asked me to pick a watch from the catalog that best represents the small but mighty German brand Nomos Glashütte, I'd probably choose the Metro Date Power Reserve. Sure, it's not the distinctive Tangente, nor is it a simple Club Campus. But I think the Metro Date Power Reserve embodies so much of what makes the brand special to me—a beautifully considered, minimalist design by designer Mark Braun, a splash of color to make it interesting, a quirky power reserve indicator, and an in-house manually wound movement with the finishing you'd expect from the brand. That's why I bought mine a few years ago, and I've enjoyed it ever since. However, unlike many other watches in the lineup, the Metro Date Power Reserve is a tricky model to recommend to friends, especially those just starting out in this dangerously addictive space. That's because for all that the watch delivers, it has its Achilles' heel in the form of a non-quickset date. Yes, that means that if you haven't worn the watch in a while and the date is off a bit, you'll need to keep moving the hands back and forth past midnight to advance the date every single time. If you're fifteen days out, it gets tedious, and there's no way around it except to accept that your watch shows the wrong date. Luckily, after more than a decade in production, the model gets a new refresh. Today, Nomos brings a new in-house caliber, DUW 4701, to power the new generation of Metro Date Power Reserve. Most importantly, ...

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The Gold Bug Hits Hard With The Armin Strom Tribute³ Au750 Fratello
Armin Strom Tribute³ Au750 Our adoration Oct 8, 2026

The Gold Bug Hits Hard With The Armin Strom Tribute³ Au750

Our adoration of gold continues today with the lovely new Tribute³ from Armin Strom. However, as we’ll see, the brand has used this material more thoroughly than usual. For the first time at Armin Strom, 18K rose gold defines the watch from the outside in. The material is used for the structure, the cosmetics, and […] Visit The Gold Bug Hits Hard With The Armin Strom Tribute³ Au750 to read the full article.

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Zenith Presents Its Unique Piece for the TimeForArt Auction Worn & Wound
Zenith Presents Oct 7, 2026

Zenith Presents Its Unique Piece for the TimeForArt Auction

In 2022, the inaugural TimeForArt auction took place in partnership with Phillips, marking the first and only benefit watch auction to support contemporary art and artists. In its opening year, it raised $1.2 million for the Swiss Institute’s exhibitions, public programs, education initiatives, and community engagement. Its next edition returns this December as part of The New York Watch Auction XV, now featuring a whopping 25 watch brands up from the original 17, including Zenith with a unique Defy Chronograph. For this special edition going toward a worthy cause, Zenith has once again teamed up with USM Modular Furniture. The pair first collaborated in 2025 on four ultra colorful Defy Chronograph models inspired by the timeless and playful design language of the distinctive furniture. Here, the watchmaker drew on the brand’s patented USM Haller modular system and married it with the architecture of the Defy Chronograph. For the upcoming charity auction, the duo continues to use the model as the canvas, but this time, they take a more subtle and subdued approach to the design.The foundation remains the same with the Defy Chronograph’s compact 37mm stainless-steel case, octagonal geometry, fourteen-sided bezel, and the stainless-steel “ladder” bracelet. Like we saw in the original collaboration, there are small easter eggs throughout, like the tip of the chronograph seconds hand that’s fitted with a miniature USM Haller ball joint and provides a subtle link bac...

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Happenings: Join Us For Hodinkee Happy Hour At Grotta [RSVP Here] Hodinkee
Ming into town from near Oct 7, 2026

Happenings: Join Us For Hodinkee Happy Hour At Grotta [RSVP Here]

New York Watch Week is almost here, and we're kicking off the jam-packed weekend with the next installment of Hodinkee Happy Hour at Grotta. With watch enthusiasts and industry folk coming into town from near and far, it's the perfect opportunity to grab a beer, eat some pizza, and catch up with the New York watch community. Space is limited, so be sure to RSVP right away. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys and other Hodinkee team members. We'd love for you join, whether you're a regular or it's your first time attending one of our events. See you there! Date:Wednesday, October 14, 2026, 6-8 PMLocation:Grotta Local177 Mulberry StNew York, NY 10013 RSVP Here.

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Introducing - The World’s Smallest & Lightest Triple-Axis Tourbillon, The Peacock Tai Chi Curved Guilloche Monochrome
Oct 7, 2026

Introducing - The World’s Smallest & Lightest Triple-Axis Tourbillon, The Peacock Tai Chi Curved Guilloche

Founded in 1957, Liaoning-based watch manufacturer Peacock certainly has a strong track record, being one of the backbones of industrial watchmaking in the region. And in recent years, as it approaches its 70th anniversary, Peacock is demonstrating that Chinese watchmaking is no longer what it used to be. We’re not talking about entry-level automatic movements […]

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Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2 Fratello
Oct 7, 2026

Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2

One of the most common complaints in the watch community concerns current pricing. Indeed, the COVID-19 period affected the prices of luxury items. Meet Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte GmbH, or DUG, which claims to bring the traditional craftsmanship of Glashütte watchmaking without charging the traditional high prices. This is a bold claim, so let’s find out […] Visit Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2 to read the full article.

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Seiko’s Power Design Project “Panda” Comes to Life SJX Watches
Grand Seiko inspired Oct 7, 2026

Seiko’s Power Design Project “Panda” Comes to Life

Seiko takes a break from its usual fare of affordable dive watches and dress watches with the Power Design Project Collection 2 “Panda” in black (HHK001) and pink (HHK002). It’s a limited edition run of a concept watch created for the design-oriented exhibition of the same name staged in 2024. Affordable and fun, the watch takes the concept of a “panda” dial literally. Initial thoughts The “Panda” chronograph is a fun watch in both concept and execution. It’s quartz with panda ears as chronograph pushers, while the price is a mere US$540. This is probably the top choice this year for an inexpensive gift that’s still a proper watch from a reputable brand. More broadly, the “Panda” underlines the diversity of Seiko’s offerings; one of its other launches this year was the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon, which is artisanal high horology. And it also raises the question, if there can be a top-of-the-line Grand Seiko inspired by a lion, why not a high-end “panda” chronograph? Design power The “Panda” limited edition is modelled on the concept watch created by Kiyotaka Sakai, a member of Seiko’s in-house design team, for Power Design Project in 2024. It’s almost identical to the exhibition watch, save for minor tweaks to the dial to improve legibility, as well as the addition of a nose and mouth for the “face” that replace “Pandagraph” in the concept watch. Designer Kiyotaka Sakai The “Panda” chronograph debuts in two variants, both ...

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True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph Fratello
Ebel Oct 7, 2026

True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph

Storytelling has long been a powerful way to connect watch enthusiasts with a timepiece, but only a few watches immediately capture the spirit of an era. While many brands lean on obscure historical tales, the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph has a wealth of stories that embody the 1980s. It is one of the defining chronographs […] Visit True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph to read the full article.

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Hamilton Introduces the American Classic Cushion Mechanical Worn & Wound
Blancpain Oct 6, 2026

Hamilton Introduces the American Classic Cushion Mechanical

We’re at an interesting time when it comes to the dialogue in the watch community on vintage inspired watches. Watches that make explicit references to the past are simply less common now than they were a decade ago, or even 4 or 5 years ago. I’ve long believed that a maturing group of collectors who entered the hobby when these watches were all the rage have aged into a point in their collecting journeys when more adventurous and contemporary designs simply have more interest.  But this theory really only applies to what most of us refer to as “midcentury” watches. Think about the earliest dive watches from Rolex, Blancpain, and others, the types of dress and everyday watches worn by Don Draper on Mad Men, and extending through to the earliest bits of 60s and 70s funkiness. That’s the vintage inspired wheelhouse for watch brands seeking to tap into the community’s desire to commune with the past, whether through real or imagined nostalgia. Watches from a century ago are an entirely different category.  Enter the Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical. This is an entirely new collection from the brand that finds them looking to designs from the 1920s for inspiration. Watches from this period never really had a widespread moment of resurgence like divers from the 1960s, but if you’ve spent some time in the hobby you’ve undoubtedly encountered collectors who are deeply into exactly this kind of thing. There are a number of interesting reasons to colle...

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Introducing - American Indie Watchmaker RGM Releases the Perpetual Calendar Model 501-PC Monochrome
RGM Oct 6, 2026

Introducing - American Indie Watchmaker RGM Releases the Perpetual Calendar Model 501-PC

RGM Watch Company, the American independent watchmaker based in Pennsylvania, is bringing the perpetual calendar complication back into its collection with the new Model 501-PC, marking the company’s first watch with the function since the Model 103-R Minute Repeater Perpetual of the late 1990s – you can see this model and also the watchmaker’s complete […]

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Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Boston and Los Angeles Hodinkee
Oct 6, 2026

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Boston and Los Angeles

The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is visiting Boston on November 7 and 8, 2026, hosted by Shreve, Crump & Low. HSNY then heads to Los Angeles on November 14, 2026, hosted by F.P.Journe.  At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York. Enrollment is now open for the classes, and we look forward to seeing you there! HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

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The Toledano & Chan Oshinobi Hides Its Secret In Plain Sight Fratello
Oct 6, 2026

The Toledano & Chan Oshinobi Hides Its Secret In Plain Sight

Toledano & Chan has carved out a nice little niche in the watch industry. In a universe dominated by familiarity, the young brand is not afraid to walk a different path. It’s a path defined by creativity and pushing design in new directions. As a result, Toledano & Chan’s creations are not for everyone. But […] Visit The Toledano & Chan Oshinobi Hides Its Secret In Plain Sight to read the full article.

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Review: The Tudor Northflag Gets a Second Chance Worn & Wound
Tudor Northflag Gets Oct 5, 2026

Review: The Tudor Northflag Gets a Second Chance

When the Tudor North Flag came out in 2015, it was met with a collective “what?” Tudor had chosen it to debut its in-house movements, a genuinely big moment for the brand. But the watch itself was a totally unexpected throwback to the fairly obscure Ranger II, an integrated bracelet sports watch from the ’70s that I don’t think anyone expected to see revived. It was interesting, though. The North Flag had a design language entirely separate from the Black Bay and Pelagos lines, plus a hybrid steel-and-ceramic bezel, a display caseback, and a power reserve. That last feature is still the only time Tudor has used a power reserve on one of its modern movements. The reaction was mixed. Tudor was arguably too far ahead of the curve: integrated bracelet sports watches weren’t trending; vintage divers were. Six years later, the North Flag was discontinued. In the meantime, integrated bracelet sports watches didn’t just become popular; they became almost a requirement. It feels like every brand has released one in the last five years, at prices ranging from a couple hundred dollars to a couple hundred thousand. People now look back at the original North Flag and think, “Oh, wait a second. Maybe that was a pretty cool watch after all.” So while the first North Flag was ahead of the curve, the new Northflag is right on time, or maybe even a touch late. It’s also a GMT, though you won’t find “GMT” in the name. The question is whether Tudor has made a better wa...

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Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray Hodinkee
Ming Japanese movements Oct 5, 2026

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray

It's funny the way a brand can sneak up on you. Maybe you hear the name on a podcast, and then, a few months later, you run into the brand at a watch fair, or on a friend's wrist. Still, despite repeated encounters, it's remarkable how a brand can continue to exist entirely outside your awareness. Until it doesn't. Until you somehow find a brand, or a watch, completely inescapable, unavoidable, inevitable. 18 months ago, I'm not sure I'd ever given an independent thought to Traska; today, that couldn't be further from the truth, and the brand's Chronograph (aptly named, the Chronograph) is the perfect example of why. If you don't yet know Traska, I don't blame you. Traska is just one of many small brands that have popped up over the last decade, and they've broadly followed a familiar formula: Kickstarter launch, followed by a slowly expanding stable of somewhat conservatively designed, three-handed sports and dive watches, all powered by reliable but unassuming Japanese movements, and all drawing a heavy dose of inspiration from well-known (but far less accessible) watch brands. So, if the broad strokes are familiar, where Traska has separated itself from the pack is in the details. For one thing, unlike so many other Kickstarter brands with similar stories who have come and gone with barely a whisper, Traska has stuck around and, each year, their watches have gotten better. I finally reached my tipping point with Traska last year, when I picked up a second-hand Venturer ...

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Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Oct 5, 2026

Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table

Welcome to a realm where time is told by 12 knights. Introducing the 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table, a watch in forest green and, for the first time in the long-running series, a pink gold case adorned with handmade engravings called The Metamorph Merlin. The final watch in the Tale of […] Visit Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table to read the full article.

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