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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.

How To Juggle Vintage Inspiration And Modern Reinterpretation Fratello
Oct 4, 2026

How To Juggle Vintage Inspiration And Modern Reinterpretation

Recently, I’ve experienced several watches that all wrestle with the same problem in different ways. Vario, Timor, and Ollech & Wajs each draw heavily on history, yet each brand has landed on a different answer to a question that sounds simple and is not: how much of a vintage design should a modern watch actually […] Visit How To Juggle Vintage Inspiration And Modern Reinterpretation to read the full article.

Review: Does The Cartier Roadster Deserve A Victory Lap? WatchAdvice
Cartier Roadster Deserve Oct 4, 2026

Review: Does The Cartier Roadster Deserve A Victory Lap?

Cartier’s Y2K darling has returned to the fold, but has it done enough to pick up from where it left off? Let’s find out! What We Love: Unique, shapely case Seamless wearability Fun, quirky aesthetic What We Don’t: Lack of lume for a sports watch Slippery, hard-to-operate crown Did the Roadster deserve a comeback? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Of all the watch brands that have broken through into popular culture, Cartier stands as one of the most significant. Ever the champions and pioneers of quiet luxury, the French jeweller-watchmakers have built up a remarkable reputation over the course of 179 years. As part of that esteemed legacy are some of the most iconic silhouettes in watchmaking. Truly, models like the Tank, Santos, and Panthère are easily recognisable from their shadows alone! But while these collections possess obvious cultural cachet, perhaps equally as interesting are the designs that are no longer with us. The archival graveyard of Cartier is surprisingly rich, decorated with references as beautiful as they are unconventional. Model lines like the Pasha, the Calibre, and the criminally underrated Drive still maintain cult followings, with dedicated fans praying for their beloved collections’ return even years after their discontinuation. This year did see one such design finally escape the Shadow Realm. Of course, I am talking about the remastered Cartier Roadster, which held a ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Ianos Amfivios Vs. Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Fratello
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 It’s Oct 4, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Ianos Amfivios Vs. Doxa Sub 300 Ti5

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a nice cup of coffee and another watch battle. This week, our Sunday Morning Showdown is a contest between two divers that immediately stand out in a crowd. In the saturated world of dive watches (no pun intended), both the Ianos Amfivios and the Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Ianos Amfivios Vs. Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 to read the full article.

It Doesn’t Get Any Better: Hands-On With The Albishorn Type X-Graph Fratello
Albishorn Type X-Graph It was Oct 3, 2026

It Doesn’t Get Any Better: Hands-On With The Albishorn Type X-Graph

It was April 2024 when I saw some of the Albishorn models — prototypes at that stage — for the first time. At Watches and Wonders, it’s easy to get watch overload already on the first day. I remember sitting at the table between two meetings, holding the Type X and thinking, “Wow, I’ve never […] Visit It Doesn’t Get Any Better: Hands-On With The Albishorn Type X-Graph to read the full article.

Introducing - Gerald Charles Puts a Lot of Topspin into the Maestro GC Sport Tennis Turquoise Edition Monochrome
Gerald Charles Oct 2, 2026

Introducing - Gerald Charles Puts a Lot of Topspin into the Maestro GC Sport Tennis Turquoise Edition

Gérald Genta (1931-2011), the legendary watch designer, worked with so many watch brands and designed so many iconic pieces that it is easy to forget that he also created two watch brands bearing his name. Genta’s last personal brand, composed of his first and middle name, Gerald Charles, was founded in 2000 and sold to the […]

The Top 5 Watches Released In September 2026 Fratello
Oct 2, 2026

The Top 5 Watches Released In September 2026

Another Friday, another list! Now that October is here, it’s time for an overview of the best releases from September. Last month, after a much-deserved summer break,  the watch industry came back to life at full speed with Geneva Watch Days. We saw an avalanche of wonderful releases during the event that kick-started the end […] Visit The Top 5 Watches Released In September 2026 to read the full article.

First Look - The New Steel Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE Black Monochrome
Oct 2, 2026

First Look - The New Steel Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE Black

Independent and deliberately small-scale, Brellum is known (and respected) for following a straightforward formula: strict quality controls, every movement is COSC-certified, and annual watch production is capped at 299 pieces. The brand’s Pandial chronograph series features a tachymeter bezel and telemeter scale, date indication and might be considered the brand’s sportier line. After the 2025 […]

Seiko Surfaces with Prospex “Blue Tears” Limited Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Surfaces Oct 1, 2026

Seiko Surfaces with Prospex “Blue Tears” Limited Edition

The Seiko Prospex Diver’s Watch “Blue Tears” ref. HBB006 gives the familiar “Samurai” a subtle blue-on-blue colourway, with a bright blue seconds hand providing the contrast. Affordable, well made, and rugged without over-the-top styling, the regional limited edition preserves the practical appeal of Seiko’s entry-level Prospex diver. Initial thoughts I like the “Blue Tears” for much the same reason I like Seiko’s other straightforward divers — it’s purposeful without looking dull. The blue-on-blue palette helps, particularly the vibrant seconds hand, which suggests an understanding of colour theory. Throughout history, artists (and some high-end watch brands) have employed this formula to enhance the perceived “glow” of the lighter colour. Nature-inspired dials are familiar territory for Seiko, and blue remains a crowd favourite. At 41.7 mm in diameter and 12.3 mm thick, the case offers sensible proportions for a substantial steel diver, and the bracelet’s faceted links carry on the angular form of the lugs, distinguishing it from other dive watches in the Seiko collection. In short, the design succeeds in part because it’s not trying to look like something else — a common problem in the dive watch segment. Priced just under SGD954, the “Blue Tears” offers convincing value, reinforced by is 1,200-piece limitation and the included silicone strap. Seiko’s industrial scale continues to pay dividends in this segment, enabling the brand to...

Onwer’s Review: the Favre Leuba Raider Harpoon 42 Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Oct 1, 2026

Onwer’s Review: the Favre Leuba Raider Harpoon 42

Favre Leuba is a slightly curious brand. Despite being able to trace its origins back to 1737 (beaten only by Blancpain), the brand has undergone a succession of relaunches in recent decades as it attempts to re-forge its identity. As a result, it doesn’t perhaps register on the radar of many watch enthusiasts in the same way as other storied names. On their website, Favre Leuba are rightly proud to present a timeline of important events in their history, and it’s worth checking out, but the abridged version begins as follows: Abraham Favre begins making watches in Le Locle in 1737. The family business becomes A. Favre & Fils in 1792 under the stewardship of Abraham’s son and two grandsons. By 1815, the next (fourth) generation of the Favre family joins forces with August Leuba, and the Favre-Leuba name is seen for the first time. Many important developments are scattered through the next century and a half, including single-button chronographs, altimeters and barometers, and collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre. As was the case with many Swiss watch brands, the Quartz Crisis had a severe impact on Favre Leuba. The Favre family’s eighth generation was the last to be involved in the business before ownership was first transferred to Benedom SA, then LVMH, and Valentin SA. In 2011 the Titan Company Limited took ownership, and it was under their stewardship that the watch I’m writing about today was made. The Raider series of watches was influenced by cushion cased w...

First Look - Three New Interpretations of the Norqain Wild One in Titanium Monochrome
Norqain Wild One Oct 1, 2026

First Look - Three New Interpretations of the Norqain Wild One in Titanium

Norqain, the independent, family-owned Swiss watch brand, has amassed a solid reputation for robust, action-oriented sports watches. CEO Ben Kuffer has relied on exceptional friends since he started the brand in 2018; one is Jean-Claude Biver, whose valuable input helped create the Wild One. Beefed up with components made from the brand’s proprietary Norteq carbon […]

The Science of Colored Ceramic Through Three New Hues in Earthen Company’s Summit MK II Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2026

The Science of Colored Ceramic Through Three New Hues in Earthen Company’s Summit MK II

It started with a topic that’s readily on watch collectors’ minds over the past few years in particular – a topic we even discussed on a recent podcast: watch prices are climbing and pricing younger collectors out of the hobby. Jonathan Chan, a collector himself and co-founder of The Horology Society (a Hong-Kong based global collector community), decided to create the brand he wanted to see in the market. After two years of conceptualization, research, development, and prototyping, he founded Earthen Company in 2025 with a mission to democratize watches with a focus on high-tech ceramic and a goal to keep price tags below $1,000. The brand’s inaugural offering, the Summit Collection, presented a mix of old and new, past and present with dichotomy of vintage pilot and field watch design codes rendered in modern ceramic. Over the past year, Earthen Company’s offerings have continued to expand with an evolution of the original line called the Summit Mark II and a totally new addition with the Aventurine Collection. The Summit MK II refined the composition of the collection that started it all. It retained the original proportions and signature ceramic build while upgrading the finer details like dial symmetry and legibility. Now, we get the latest additions to the MK II lineup with a trio of new colors.As a journalist in this industry for the better part of almost 15 years, I’m often a bit underwhelmed when the headline of a new release is simply a new colorway. ...

The Wind Vintage × True North Vintage Rally Timer IV Dreamsicle Is A Sweet Surprise Fratello
Oct 1, 2026

The Wind Vintage × True North Vintage Rally Timer IV Dreamsicle Is A Sweet Surprise

Oh goodie, today’s new release is inspired by one of my favorite childhood treats! The Wind Vintage × True North Vintage Rally Timer IV Dreamsicle is a fun, affordable watch that should delight. It’s true that pale orange rarely leads a watch launch. Yet, Wind Vintage and the True North Watch Company just made it […] Visit The Wind Vintage × True North Vintage Rally Timer IV Dreamsicle Is A Sweet Surprise to read the full article.

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 Patek Oct 1, 2026

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043

Patek Philippe expands its feminine offerings with the Gondolo Ladies First ref. 7043 in white and rose gold with the option of diamonds, or even more diamonds. Housed in the Gondolo case with ergonomic articulating lugs and powered by a simple, well-decorated movement, Patek Philippe pitches the inaugural quartz Ladies First model as an easy-to-wear, design-led watch for a discerning (and well-heeled) clientele. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Ladies First launches alongside a new marketing campaign, helmed by London ad agency Leagas Delaney, responsible for the well known generations campaign and the famous slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”. Until now, “Ladies First” meant complicated watches, including the 2009 debut of Patek Philippe’s excellent hand-wound chronograph calibre, as well as a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. In this context, a two-hand quartz watch is another first. The selection available at launch is arguably more characterful than the quartz-powered Twenty-4 models, and strengthen Patek Philippe’s catalogue in a segment that the industry has long overlooked. The indices on both the regular and jewellery models deserve special mention — the use of trapeze-cut stones, rather than more common rectangular baguettes, was, to my eye, a make-or-break decision for these dials, and Patek Philippe made the right choice. But, as usual for the brand, the value proposition may be ...

Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour in Enamel and Marquetry SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour in Enamel and Marquetry

It was just a few months ago that Patek Philippe unveiled a wide range of Rare Handcrafts at its Geneva salon, but that hasn’t stopped the brand from releasing another full slate of Dome Clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches at its Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The brand’s capacity for artistic craft is vast, as is the selection of motifs, which is not limited to Milan. Subject matter ranges from miniature views of the Amalfi coast to Byzantine mosaics, with Italian architecture, landscapes and decorative arts supplying the common thread. Table and Dome Clocks The Table Clock ref. 25028M-001 “City of Milan” is a natural place to start since it puts the host city at the centre of the collection. Its map spreads across the dial and curved side panels, with the Duomo picked out in gold using paillonné enamel. Keeping the streets aligned as they pass between the three surfaces is one of the more demanding aspects of Patek Philippe Table Clocks, which are a staple of the brand’s Watch Art exhibitions. About 11 m of gold wire outlines the districts, filled with blues, greens and turquoises over barleycorn guilloche. The translucent flinqué enamel allows the underlying texture to remain visible, while opaque white distinguishes the principal roads. Four lozenge-shaped markers on the bezel serve both as quarter-hour indications and compass points. The “City of Milan” is a limited edition of three pieces. The Dome Clock ref. 20180M-001 “Ravenna” takes...

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Reference 5978P – Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics)

Reporting directly from Milan, we have a brand-new watch from Patek Philippe, and man, this is a big one. For only the seventh time in the 187 years of the world's most important high-end watchmaker, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph! The 1518 was shown in 1941, the 2499 in 1951, the 3970 in 1986, the 5020 (forgot about that one, didnt ya!?) in 1994, the 5970 in 2004, and the 5270 in 2011 – which means this new watch, the reference 5978P, is only the second to be shown in my entire career covering this space. So you can imagine how excited I was to hear about it! Say hello to the 5978P. For only the seventh time in 187 years, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph!  What you're looking at is something so familiar, and yet so different. It is the first hand-wound perpetual chronograph to feature an instantaneous calendar mechanism, all shown in windows along a curved arch at the top of the dial, making the watch immensely legible, much more so than any previous PPC to date. The instantaneous jumping – which happens within 30 milliseconds – is one heck of a party trick.  If you're thinking this looks like something you may have seen in the 5208 or 5308 Grand Complications, you'd be exactly right. The long and short is that Patek has taken that ingenious instantaneous perpetual calendar mechanism from its big, big dog watches and applied it to the base chronograph caliber CH 29-535 that powers Patek's finest watches. It makes a shocking amount of sen...

Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Revisits Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics)

What We Know: Milan is one of the world's great fashion capitals. At the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano, Patek Philippe fittingly unveiled the Gondolo Ladies First, a collection that revisits a significant modern women's watch for the brand while taking a decidedly different approach to its execution. The new collection comprises six versions of the Ref. 7043, all sharing the same 31 x 34.8mm cushion-shaped case. Three feature diamond-set dials, while three Joaillerie versions take gem-setting considerably further, with the dial, case, and lugs covered in diamonds. The watches are available in rose gold, white gold, or a combination of both, with colorful straps and gemstone hour markers, offering the most obvious departure from the more restrained watches that inspired them. That inspiration is the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, a watch that marked an important moment in Patek Philippe's history with women's watches. Patek Philippe had, of course, been making women's watches for well over a century. In fact, its first wristwatch—created in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary—was a ladies' watch. But the 2009 Ladies First watch achieved something else. It brought Patek Philippe's new in-house CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement to a watch designed specifically for a woman's wrist. At the time, the watch made something of a statement. Patek Philippe was putting serious mechanical watchmaking at the center of a watch created intentionally for women, rather ...

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan

When it comes to collecting vintage watches, all roads lead back to Rome. Literally. Well, Rome’s home country, at least, where the passion for horology (and vintage Patek Philippe) permeates the culture, and has done so for decades, in a way that you really can’t find anywhere else. Add to that Milan’s status as fashion capital of the world, and it makes sense that Patek Philippe would host the seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The free exhibition (with reserved tickets) is meant to celebrate the art of watchmaking viewed through the lens of the craftsmanship (both technically and artistically) of Patek past and future. It opens tomorrow, October 2, and runs until October 18. As is tradition, the brand has launched new watches to celebrate the moment—7 new limited editions and 25 Rare Handcrafts models using various métiers d’art.  Ben wrote about the big news of a new manual-wind perpetual calendar chronograph (limited to 120 pieces) here. We'll also be sharing all the Rare Handcrafts pieces soon in a Photo Report from Milan. But while they're not all new references, the new treatments of a few pretty outstanding watches deserve their own story. First things first, all of these watches are ostensibly for the Italian market. But hey, better to have loved and lost (...out on a chance to buy them) than to never know they existed. As of launch, Patek has not released pricing for this model. We will update the article when more information becomes avail...

First Look - The Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Oct 1, 2026

First Look - The Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Limited Edition Milano 2026

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibitions are important milestones for the brand, offering a unique opportunity to showcase its savoir-faire, heritage and exceptional métiers d’art to both an audience of watch enthusiasts and the wider public. Especially for these exhibitions, Patek Philippe introduces special and limited editions; sometimes even introducing new watch references, movements or […]

Introducing - The Gradient Blue Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Gradient Blue Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Milano 2026

Among the 7 newly unveiled limited editions from Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026 (October 2-18, 2026) is a steel Aquanaut 5167A distinguished by a touch of Italian sporty-chic elegance… And as you would expect from a limited-edition Aquanaut, it is sure to attract the attention of collectors and aficionados alike. One of […]

Introducing - The Trilogy of Patek Philippe Calatrava for Milano Grand Exhibition 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Trilogy of Patek Philippe Calatrava for Milano Grand Exhibition 2026

Continuing its tradition of presenting timepieces alongside major exhibitions, Patek Philippe introduces a selection of limited editions for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026. Among these is a trio of Calatrava watches, each echoing one of the colours of the Italian national flag and designed on the basis of the Calatrava 6007: green, white, and […]

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 5978P Steals Milan Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition has just opened in Milan, three years after its last residency in Tokyo. The regular exhibit pops up in a new city every few years, and serves as a local demonstration of the brand’s prowess across complications and métiers d’art. For the Milan edition, the flagship new release is the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5978P-010, which combines the instantaneous perpetual calendar system from the ref. 5207 with the brand’s manually wound cal. CH 29-535 chronograph movement. Visually, this combination of elements resembles the more upscale ref. 5208, but without the minute repeater functionality. Debuting in platinum, the blue-and-red ref. 5978P is limited to 120 pieces, but additional (non-limited) variants seem likely at some point in the future. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe was the first brand to combine the perpetual calendar and chronograph complications in a wristwatch. This breakthrough came surprisingly early in the history of the wristwatch — the fabled ref. 1518 debuted all the way back in 1941. Since then, this format has become almost synonymous with the brand. The ref. 5978P builds upon this legacy without retreading the same territory. For one thing, the watch eschews the familiar triple calendar dial layout of the refs. 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, 5270, and their cushion-shaped and split-seconds variants. Instead, the dial adopts the layout of the ref. 5208, characterised by three calendar windows across...

Introducing - The Two Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater 5531G Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Two Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater 5531G Limited Edition Milano 2026

Among the special editions revealed for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026 are two variants of the reference 5531, first introduced in 2017 and since occupying a particular place in the modern collection. The 5531 brought together two complications strongly associated with the manufacture: the World Time display, rooted in the Louis Cottier tradition, […]

Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives Fratello
Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives

As of today, Patek Philippe has opened the doors to its seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition, this time in Milan. Alongside the exhibition itself, the Genevan watchmaker has introduced seven limited-edition watches reserved for the Italian market. They range from a new platinum perpetual calendar chronograph to minute repeaters, a perpetual calendar, a Calatrava, an […] Visit Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives to read the full article.

Test-Driving The Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition HBJ008 Fratello
Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Oct 1, 2026

Test-Driving The Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition HBJ008

Seiko’s Speedtimer series has become a popular option for those looking for an affordable classic sports chronograph. With its latest incarnation of the solar-powered Speedtimer, Seiko presents a subtle twist on the classic blue and orange racing color scheme watch enthusiasts know so well. I had the chance to learn more about the Seiko Speedtimer […] Visit Test-Driving The Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition HBJ008 to read the full article.